DIY Curved Screen with structural extruded aluminum metal framing - Page 5 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armstrr View Post

"If the horizontal distance from the centre of the chord is X, then the height of the curve from the chord at that point is:
h=sqrt(R^2 - X^2) - R + C
The sqrt part calculates the vertical height of the point on the arc from the centre of the circle, and then the -R+C adjusts so that the height is with respect to the chord instead."

i used the above and made a table in excel and checked it by graphing it and it looks good. thanks for your help! I'll start my own thread when i am further along
Great , it's been too long since a DIY curved screen build thread.
Share your excel table in your thread also.

Start it now, post your thoughts, plans, etc.

a) AT or solid screen?
b) If solid, will you apply specific paint mixture?
c) Size

btw, here in SE Michigan we may get slammed with 8-12" of snow in next 36 hours, and really cold temps....though you being in "Canuckland" I'm sure this is just another day for you wink.gif
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:00 AM
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Ok...will do. I live in a border city...so I'll be getting the same weather as 48060!
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:56 PM
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wish our temps would have been that mild... -20 below and wind chill to -45F:eek: we survived though


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Old 09-19-2014, 08:28 AM
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Came here via one of your posts in the Atmos threads, we were musing the next generation of AVR's...


Anyway, I haven't read this entire thread but from what I have it looks like a great screen!


I have a SMX AT screen, at the time Rueben was not making curved units, I bought mine material first with the intentions of making a frame then with other commitments decided to by one of his frames as well, it too is a 2.35:1 CIH unit with the same dimensions as yours.


I recall that you curve is 39.7 ft, IIRC Rueben made his about the same at 40 ft, is this how you decided the curve and what distance is the projector from the screen?


Sorry for all of the 'I's, but at one point I had considered seeing if I could bend the aluminium extrusion to the curve, I am pretty sure that is how he did them, just not sure who would have a roller system that could achieve this...


Cheers!


BTW, I too am waiting a bit for the Atmos AVR thing to settle out...

Al
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Old 12-03-2014, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post
Came here via one of your posts in the Atmos threads, we were musing the next generation of AVR's...


Anyway, I haven't read this entire thread but from what I have it looks like a great screen!


I have a SMX AT screen, at the time Rueben was not making curved units, I bought mine material first with the intentions of making a frame then with other commitments decided to by one of his frames as well, it too is a 2.35:1 CIH unit with the same dimensions as yours.


I recall that you curve is 39.7 ft, IIRC Rueben made his about the same at 40 ft, is this how you decided the curve and what distance is the projector from the screen?


Sorry for all of the 'I's, but at one point I had considered seeing if I could bend the aluminium extrusion to the curve, I am pretty sure that is how he did them, just not sure who would have a roller system that could achieve this...


Cheers!


BTW, I too am waiting a bit for the Atmos AVR thing to settle out...
I missed this post Al....busy with life
For the curvature amount I used the excel file from Aussie Bob, look here:
DIY Screen Curve Calculator (Aussie Bob)
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Old 12-03-2014, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post
I missed this post Al....busy with life
For the curvature amount I used the excel file from Aussie Bob, look here:
DIY Screen Curve Calculator (Aussie Bob)



No worries, and thanks for the link!

Al
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Old 01-25-2015, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Seems I lost where this info was posted, so re-posting it here for keepsake.
This lens, UH380, has served me well over the years.


Here is a sheet to help you plan for your lens/PJ/Screen combo, pict shows the excel data, I've attached it so you can play with your situation
Attached Files
File Type: zip SonyVPL-VW60 LensAnalysis.xls 2.zip (11.6 KB, 17 views)
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:23 AM
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I too have the UH380, can't wait to get started on my re-do of the HT and get back to watching movies! It has been ripped apart for a few years to accommodate a kitchen reno...


I think I mentioned that I have a AT 2.40:1 screen and a BenQ W9000 PJ, soon there may the possibility of going to 4K as I see that there is an anticipation that 4K BD players may be out this fall!

Al
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Old 07-11-2015, 11:53 PM
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Forgive me if I have told this story before. Promise not to laugh. Let it be a warning to you.

I made a curved screen of carefully selected white "Laminex" or "Formica". I made a special order for a sheet 12foot X 6 foot. The dreaded and I got home late one night and it had been left rolled up (goodness knows how they rolled it up) in a cylinder roll 6ft high and about 2ft wide, bound with a couple of bits of plastic stuff. Quite heavy.
The dreaded went to bed. I dragged it into the HT room, which has no access from our house, but with a common double-brick wall, and decided to unroll it flat onto the floor to allow it to flatten.
When I cut the second binder the sheet unleashed itself SPROING with a tremendous release of stored energy. The edges are extremely sharp and I was lucky it did not cut my throat. In retrospect it was lucky the cook was not around too.

There I was alone, grappling with this great awkward somewhat floppy sheet which had cost heaps, and not wanting to let it kink and break. By stretching my foot as far as it would go I managed to drag a stepladder over to prop up a wobbly end.

For about half an hour I called out to my darling wife for help and finally she arrived and helped lower the sheet flat and unbroken to the floor.
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Old 11-22-2015, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post


I've seen other people here using sq alum tubing, but never this extruded structural alum stuff, if others have done this before post that link, I could not find any.
I went to a local fabricator, and they said they could do it with extruded aluminum. Their solution was to fabricate a piece to put in the grooves (which i never even thought of), and then run it through their bender. They told me they would need a few pieces of scrap to test it out on though. They estimated they could do 2 15' long pieces for me for $600-$1k. This is still way cheaper than buying a commercial curved frame. I am still contemplating whether or not to go curved screen...if i do go that route i will post up how it turned out.

Yamaha CX-A5100, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, Xilica XP-4080 crossover, (2pr) JBL 8340As,  (2pr) JBL 8320s, PS3, XBox360, (2) Intel NUCs, Monoprice12 gauge speaker wire and XLR cables, Redmere HDMI cables, Monster HTPS7000, 2 DTS-10 subs, Panasonic AE8000, SeymourAV 195" diagonal scope screen, Panamorph UH-480, Darbee Darcet, Yamaha P7000s, Yamaha MX-A5000, MiniDSP DDRC-88A, and an Oppo 103.
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
I went to a local fabricator, and they said they could do it with extruded aluminum. Their solution was to fabricate a piece to put in the grooves (which i never even thought of), and then run it through their bender. They told me they would need a few pieces of scrap to test it out on though. They estimated they could do 2 15' long pieces for me for $600-$1k. This is still way cheaper than buying a commercial curved frame. I am still contemplating whether or not to go curved screen...if i do go that route i will post up how it turned out.
A couple of things, I would think that anything run through a bender that rolls (assumption on the bender type) the material would put a constant curve in it, essentially and arc of a circle, what size circle have you chosen?

Secondly what prevents the screen material from trying to take the shortest path across this arc and essentially bowing outwards towards the room?

I really wished I have ordered a curve screen frame from Ruben when was still up and running, I have a 2.35:1 SMX screen and it turned out awesome, amazing extrusion profile.
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post
A couple of things, I would think that anything run through a bender that rolls (assumption on the bender type) the material would put a constant curve in it, essentially and arc of a circle, what size circle have you chosen?

Secondly what prevents the screen material from trying to take the shortest path across this arc and essentially bowing outwards towards the room?

I really wished I have ordered a curve screen frame from Ruben when was still up and running, I have a 2.35:1 SMX screen and it turned out awesome, amazing extrusion profile.
I have not chosen a arc as of yet. I know that SeymourAV does it on a 40' circle.

From what i have read...the way to avoid the material taking the shortest rout is to put the material on the back side of the frame instead of the side facing the MLP. I would think the other option would be to attach the screen black velvet frame to the extruded aluminum on the front there by sandwiching the material between the 2 frames.

Yamaha CX-A5100, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, Xilica XP-4080 crossover, (2pr) JBL 8340As,  (2pr) JBL 8320s, PS3, XBox360, (2) Intel NUCs, Monoprice12 gauge speaker wire and XLR cables, Redmere HDMI cables, Monster HTPS7000, 2 DTS-10 subs, Panasonic AE8000, SeymourAV 195" diagonal scope screen, Panamorph UH-480, Darbee Darcet, Yamaha P7000s, Yamaha MX-A5000, MiniDSP DDRC-88A, and an Oppo 103.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
I have not chosen a arc as of yet. I know that SeymourAV does it on a 40' circle.

From what i have read...the way to avoid the material taking the shortest rout is to put the material on the back side of the frame instead of the side facing the MLP. I would think the other option would be to attach the screen black velvet frame to the extruded aluminum on the front there by sandwiching the material between the 2 frames.
I have seen the 40' circle quoted before, possibly a happy medium. What about physically mocking up your PJ and with it's distance to the screen determined, then measure the arc by holding a piece of paper near the far left and right edges and see where the focus and light falls. I would have thought that every PJ/lens and screen size/distance combination would create a unique arc, sure a ready-made screen will work but as you are considering bending this as a custom order maybe with a little measuring you could get it near perfect?

My SMX screen has the material mounted from behind.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post
I have seen the 40' circle quoted before, possibly a happy medium. What about physically mocking up your PJ and with it's distance to the screen determined, then measure the arc by holding a piece of paper near the far left and right edges and see where the focus and light falls. I would have thought that every PJ/lens and screen size/distance combination would create a unique arc, sure a ready-made screen will work but as you are considering bending this as a custom order maybe with a little measuring you could get it near perfect?

My SMX screen has the material mounted from behind.
The biggie for me will be how much the sides need to come forward, as I only have 12" available. I need to get out the tape measure and verify the distance to the center of the screen to determine the arc.

Yamaha CX-A5100, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, Xilica XP-4080 crossover, (2pr) JBL 8340As,  (2pr) JBL 8320s, PS3, XBox360, (2) Intel NUCs, Monoprice12 gauge speaker wire and XLR cables, Redmere HDMI cables, Monster HTPS7000, 2 DTS-10 subs, Panasonic AE8000, SeymourAV 195" diagonal scope screen, Panamorph UH-480, Darbee Darcet, Yamaha P7000s, Yamaha MX-A5000, MiniDSP DDRC-88A, and an Oppo 103.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:31 AM
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Didn't read back far enough to know if you said... But I recommend setting the arc to the midpoint between pincushion correction and flat. This way you split the error from perfect pincushion and maximum barrel distortion, assuming you are using a A-lens and moving the lens out of the path for 16:9. When you stretch the material, you have to get a mostly vertical stretch. When you pull on the sides, it will pull the middle in in a sort of reverse torus parabola. No side tension and you will get vertical wrinkles. Balancing act. 40' is a standard for a curved frame for may companies, with most offering custom radii on demand. When I'm working with my customers on screen sizing, I calculate the correct curve for the installation, and apply some experience.
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Old 12-30-2015, 10:14 PM
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Firstly, albeit late... nicely done Mike.


Since this thread is still going, I thought that might as well give people another tip for sourcing the aluminum extrusions and a host of other goodies (pretty much everything) for the so inclined DIYer.
For me, as a machine/equipment designer, it's the best "go to" place... bar none
BTW, it was voted a few years back, THE BEST site period... just browse/search through it and you'll come to the same conclusion, but beware... it's addictive


So, here is the link:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#t-slotted-framing/=10h1b15


And here is something I designed and built with scrapped parts form an old Trumpf nibbling machine, some sheet metal and the rest sourced from... you guessed it




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Panta Rei

Last edited by liviu; 12-31-2015 at 07:00 AM.
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:38 AM
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^^ nice work! And I see what you mean by the link you sent... I 'will' be there for hours!

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