MY DIY Electric CIH masking! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 31 Old 03-10-2007, 10:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I have been planning to do this for a very long, just didn't have the time to figure everything out, but this weekend I was finally able to finish my DIY electric masking setup for my 2.40:1 CRT projector setup

before I was using curtains that were drawn over by hand, I grew tired of constantly adjusting them securing the velcro etc. so I decided to put a end to that

my system consists of the following:

Graber traverse rod from Lowes/Home Depot 84-156 inches
Graber 2 1/2 valence rod from Lowes/Home Depot 84-156 inches
2 relevant size pieces of foam insulation board, comes in 4x8 sheet with foil backing at Lowes/Home Depot
Black fabric of choice
Some traverse rod drapery hooks
and of course a Add-A-Motor 80

the system is quite simple, I sized out my boards, installed the traverse rod over the screen top, installed the valance in front of that, all my workings are hidden behind the valance and side velvet drapery, everything that is visible is covered in thin black velvet

the 2 foam panels are straight as a arrow and connect in 2 travelers on the traverse rod with the drapery hooks stuck in the back of the foam, they are light as a feather, both together wouldn't be a 1lb, the track would handle 30+ pounds of drapery

the loop cord simply slides into the Add-A-Motor(I don't even have this yet) and you customize 2 stop points, mine of course will be 1.85:1 and full 2.40:1 and as AC/DC would say, with the flick of the switch your masking is turning heads giving you the ultimate in convienence

total cost of this?, around 125$ and I have the ultimate high quality masking system for CIH that was customized for my needs, other costs were unacceptable

total cost for everything on that wall including velvet drapers etc. is around 225$

here is a video, pics coming in a jiffy:

http://rapidshare.com/files/20365048/masking.wmv.html

-Gary
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post #2 of 31 Old 03-10-2007, 12:28 PM
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sweet, sounds nice. I can't wait to see the pics. I'm having trouble downloading the video.

edit: Nice! I just saw the video. That looks to work very well. Now I really want to see how it looks with the lights on. I might have to steal your idea!
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post #3 of 31 Old 03-10-2007, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Murrell View Post

....

the loop cord simply slides into the Add-A-Motor(I don't even have this yet) and you customize 2 stop points, mine of course will be 1.85:1 and full 2.40:1 and as AC/DC would say, with the flick of the switch your masking is turning heads giving you the ultimate in convienence
.....


How is your masking working in the video if you don't have the Add-A-Motor yet?
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post #4 of 31 Old 03-10-2007, 04:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I have a mouse in the wall!

that is me pulling the loop cord, motor will be here this week

here are some pics, I will post some later of all the coverings off the wall, this came out so well, if you need CIH masking this is the way to do it







-Gary
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post #5 of 31 Old 03-11-2007, 04:56 AM
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Nice work, the video looks very good !
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post #6 of 31 Old 03-11-2007, 08:42 AM
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Gary, it looks awesome. The electric motor side of things certainly goes a long way in creating the cinematic effect. Nothing like your screen getting bigger with a touch of a button.

A couple of questions. Are the foam panels exactly the amount needed for masking from 2.35 - 1.85? Or does some of the foam paneling hide behind the drapes?

Also, height wise. It looks like the foam panels stop at the bottom of the screen frame.

How does this look aesthetically? I would think when the lights are off you couldn't tell but can you tell where the panels stop when you have lights on? Or do they blend into the rest of the black screen border material?
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post #7 of 31 Old 03-11-2007, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Tukkis the panels go behind the curtains some even when fully opened for 1.85:1

I think 1.85:1 leaves around 12 inches on each side of my screen and the panels are like 15 which is almot enough for 1.33:1, but the add-a motor only has to stop presets, so its fully closes or 2.40:1 or fully open 1.85:1 nothing in between or beyond

the panels stop at the bottom of the screen in the middle of the black border, I cannot tell where they end, so yes they blend very well and look great aesthetically

the drape mount at the top sticks outfurther then the panels, at the bottom under the panels I have some stuff pushing the drapes out there equal with the top, they way the panels never get caught up in the drapery or etc.

when I get everything done I am gonna use a light switch mounted in between my seats to do the changing, just flick it and off they go

unless I can find a cheap IR controlled switch or outlet and run a IR emitter to it, X10 doesn't like me at all

believe it or not, all the stuff that is out there, I cannot find a simple IR controlled AC outlet other than the 300$ Xantech piece which defeats the point because of price

-Gary
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post #8 of 31 Old 03-11-2007, 10:18 AM
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Gary, as a fervant 2.35 constant height guy like yourself, this is really niiiiiice. If you have some detailed files on how to build, I'd like to give it a try in my theater. Great job!!!!
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post #9 of 31 Old 03-11-2007, 02:17 PM
 
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Quote:


believe it or not, all the stuff that is out there, I cannot find a simple IR controlled AC outlet other than the 300$ Xantech piece which defeats the point because of price

What about a Lutron remote controled light switch. they're about $75 or so at HD.
I have mine programed into my universal remote.

Scott
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post #10 of 31 Old 03-11-2007, 02:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Scott does Lutron make just a light switch and not a dimmer? I would need a regular light switch or a relay

thanks for the idea

-Gary
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post #11 of 31 Old 03-12-2007, 02:31 AM
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Gary, any pics of how the panels actually attach to the curtain rod to go back and forth? Just trying to visual how they travel smoothly.
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post #12 of 31 Old 03-12-2007, 06:53 AM
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Gary,
Great job! I have an Add-A-Motor from Smarthome that I was planning to use for my screen masking and had looked all over for a 2 way draw vertical track but to no avail as I need at least 129" in length. I had gone to lowes and home depot and had seen those traverse rods but they don't carry them at that size at all. Was that a special order you made? Is it 156" inches in length or 84"? Can you post the sku number if possible? Details on how you constructed your masking system would be great also. BTW, the add-a-motor has a remote (Remote Butler from Smarthome) for 25 sumthing dollars but it's RF. I have one and you simply plug the reciever to an outlet and plug in your add-a-motor to it. All it does is it enables you to turn it on/off with the provided remote. I wonder if it could be controlled by a Harmony 890. Thanks for sharing!!!

Frank
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post #13 of 31 Old 03-12-2007, 07:36 AM
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The Add-A-Motor - is it this one ?
How noisey is the motor? I've heard differing things and would like your thoughts on it.

Andy
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post #14 of 31 Old 03-13-2007, 07:34 AM
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Very nice Gary. I'll have to give that a shot in my theater.
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post #15 of 31 Old 03-13-2007, 07:44 AM
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VERY GOOD IDEA.. I am impressed...and you have given me an idea for a possible curved screen mask...
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post #16 of 31 Old 03-13-2007, 01:24 PM
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Hi Gary,

What size screen are you using and what is your viewing distance? Nice job by the way.

Thanks,
Tom

My equipment: JVC RS55 for 2D, BenQ W7000 for 3D, Carada 40x117 2.925:1 AR BW Criterion screen, Navatar .8 HD conversion lens, Darbee Darblet, region free Oppo BP93, Toshiba HD-A35 HD-DVD, JVC HD-DH5U D-Theater, Mitsubishi HS-HD 20000 DVHS, Pioneer CLD-97 LD player/AC-3 mod, B&K AC3 Demodulator
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post #17 of 31 Old 03-13-2007, 03:00 PM
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Very nice! Good use of Pink Floyd in the video as well!

Registered U.S. Patent and Trademark Attorney
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post #18 of 31 Old 03-17-2007, 07:03 PM
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Gary,

Looks great. Only thing I can't figure out is the need for masking in the first place. Your CRT inky blacks should suffice. Am I missing something?
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post #19 of 31 Old 03-18-2007, 02:44 PM
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Hi,
sorry if this question has already been posted.
I'm a little bit confused: how can you use a cih screen with a crt? What I am missing?
Thanks
Pierluigi
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post #20 of 31 Old 03-18-2007, 03:57 PM
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jupiter - CIH uses the full panel of your 16x9 display device in combination with an anamorphic lens to stretch it left & right to return it to it's correct aspect ratio. It's the film in all it's glory. No black bars top & bottom.

It can be done with any device.. as long as you can stretch the content with video processing. It doesn't matter if it's CRT/DLP/LCOS/LCD projection, etc.

Not to mention you can really do the same thing with zooming your setup.. or "poor CIH" by just zooming out to fill the 2.35 screen having the black bars spill out of the screen. This works well too, but is more of a pain, contrary to a quality lens setup be dimmer.

Hope that helps. ( unless I also misunderstood your question! )
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post #21 of 31 Old 03-19-2007, 12:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishysan View Post

jupiter - CIH uses the full panel of your 16x9 display device in combination with an anamorphic lens to stretch it left & right to return it to it's correct aspect ratio. It's the film in all it's glory. No black bars top & bottom.

It can be done with any device.. as long as you can stretch the content with video processing. It doesn't matter if it's CRT/DLP/LCOS/LCD projection, etc.

Not to mention you can really do the same thing with zooming your setup.. or "poor CIH" by just zooming out to fill the 2.35 screen having the black bars spill out of the screen. This works well too, but is more of a pain, contrary to a quality lens setup be dimmer.

Hope that helps. ( unless I also misunderstood your question! )

Three out of four ain't bad.

CRT projection is another animal altogether as it neither zooms nor can be retrofitted with an anamorphic lens.

A visit to the CRT forum may just be in order. Member Scopeboy has just such a CRT setup (2.35) and most likely be happy to share his knowhow.

OP, Gary, should also be very helpful.
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post #22 of 31 Old 03-19-2007, 02:19 AM
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Thanks for you replies.
I am a proud Barco graphics 808 owner and CIH has always been my "dream".
I've always thought it could not be done with a crt but, for what I see, I was wrong.
I' will dig in the crt forum but I'll surely appreciaty if Gary would share his knowlwdge.
Thanks again.
Pierluigi
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post #23 of 31 Old 03-19-2007, 09:33 PM
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CMRA - thanks for the correction of course it would be a PITA and not all that possible with THREE guns/lenses & such .. sorry about that. Forgot! :P Had CRT RPTV then jumped to digital for front projection.
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post #24 of 31 Old 03-20-2007, 05:52 AM
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If you are thinking about CIH CRT setups, you should check out this great info on constant area projection. link: http://www.videophile.info/Screen/Page_01.htm
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post #25 of 31 Old 07-08-2007, 06:16 PM
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I checked the Add-a-Motor at the Smarthome website. The description mentions two programmable stop points. Are those in between full open and full close? How accurate are they, in your experience?
If the above is correct, then this would be perfect for going from 4:3 (full closed), 16:9 (in-between), 2.4:1 (full open).
And the cost would be **very** reasonable!
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post #26 of 31 Old 07-28-2007, 04:45 PM
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Gary still alive? Any updates Gary?

I just ordered the Motorized Drape Controller PLC Item# 3142 from SmartHome and wanted to find out what material you used for the drapery?

-Mark AKA A/Vspec
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post #27 of 31 Old 07-28-2007, 05:35 PM
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Thanks for all the information. I haven't figured out how to get my screen going yet, but when I do I'll have a head start on the masking because of your willingness to share information.

I am interested in the foam squares on the wall/ceiling right above your screen/curtains. Would you mind telling me where you got them?? I assume you are using them for sound and/or light control. I have three very old Altec Lansing speakers I bought used. I repaired/refinished them and now need to again replace the front speaker covers. The foam I used years ago when I refinished them came from Radio Shack but they currently only carry cloth not foam grill/cover material. I am in the Dallas area. A web URL, email address, or phone number would be great if you are in another part of the country. Thanks a lot--
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post #28 of 31 Old 08-11-2007, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James A. McGahee View Post

Thanks for all the information. I haven't figured out how to get my screen going yet, but when I do I'll have a head start on the masking because of your willingness to share information.

I am interested in the foam squares on the wall/ceiling right above your screen/curtains. Would you mind telling me where you got them?? I assume you are using them for sound and/or light control. I have three very old Altec Lansing speakers I bought used. I repaired/refinished them and now need to again replace the front speaker covers. The foam I used years ago when I refinished them came from Radio Shack but they currently only carry cloth not foam grill/cover material. I am in the Dallas area. A web URL, email address, or phone number would be great if you are in another part of the country. Thanks a lot--

James...since the OP has disappeared, here is a place that has similar tile.

Link
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post #29 of 31 Old 01-15-2008, 09:37 PM
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Gary, how's you Add-A-Motor motorized drapery system doing ? Just read through you thread last week & thought I would check in again to see if there were any new posts ?

John / Tennesee
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post #30 of 31 Old 01-24-2008, 07:01 PM
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The biggest problem that I had with my masking system was that the drapery cords stretch too much. After I replaced the cord with a plastic coated steel cable (1/16") I found that the positions on my masks became extremely repeatable. Before that, I had a couple inches of play in the mask positions.

Noise - its noisy for about 2 seconds. The screen opens very quickly
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