Cheap coating opportunity for USA prisms - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 218 Old 08-05-2007, 11:21 AM
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Well - I just popped over to the DIY Screen forum, and, I will see you guys in a few months...

Thanks!

-- Keith
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post #182 of 218 Old 08-05-2007, 04:40 PM
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There is a bit of reading over there

Mark

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post #183 of 218 Old 08-06-2007, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

I also finally mounted the Perspex plate with sprung loaded bolts for easy tilt adjustment.
Mark

Mark, where did you find those. I might check HD on the way home today. I need to do something with my setup (got it from you) I finally mounted the PJ and Sled and Lens. I was about to screw the frame to get the proper tilt until I saw that statement. Thanks for saving your .. I meam my Lens frame from sure destruction.

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post #184 of 218 Old 08-06-2007, 07:50 PM
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Russell,

I sourced the Perspex from the same plastics guy that made the original water prisms for me back in 2005. It is just a 360mm square plate that I attached to the base of the projector using the 4 M5 bolts on the bottom on the unit.

I lined the plate centre to the main MDF board, drilled holes right through and then used springs to space the perspex away from the MDF. The springs compress to allow precise adjustment. I didn't include the Perspex with the sled as there was too many variables with different makes and model projectors.

Take a look at the image to see how I did mine...

Mark
LL

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post #185 of 218 Old 08-06-2007, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

Russell,

I sourced the Perspex from the same plastics guy that made the original water prisms for me back in 2005. It is just a 360mm square plate that I attached to the base of the projector using the 4 M5 bolts on the bottom on the unit.

I lined the plate centre to the main MDF board, drilled holes right through and then used springs to space the perspex away from the MDF. The springs compress to allow precise adjustment. I didn't include the Perspex with the sled as there was too many variables with different makes and model projectors.

Take a look at the image to see how I did mine...

Mark

I already have build something and used wing nuts similiar to what you have to mount my projector ( I have 4 - 5 inch screws sticking out for adjustment). I thought you where refering to the nuts/screw used for the lens tilt. It seems that whatever I do, no matter how tight I make the 2 outside screws the lens always seems to move.

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post #186 of 218 Old 08-06-2007, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sknyfs View Post

It seems that whatever I do, no matter how tight I make the 2 outside screws the lens always seems to move.

There is a fair amount of weight there, but I not had any problems with lens tilt in the past...

Mark

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post #187 of 218 Old 08-07-2007, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

There is a fair amount of weight there, but I not had any problems with lens tilt in the past...

Mark


What's the size of those 2 screws. I hate metric.

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post #188 of 218 Old 08-07-2007, 04:48 PM
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They're actually imperial - 3/16" x 1.5". I used imperial as I knew it would be easier to find than say an M5 bolt. If they're not tightening up, the tee nuts may have striped out from the MDF...

Mark

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post #189 of 218 Old 10-01-2007, 08:01 AM
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After seeing how small those french prisms are, I was wondering if you could get by with the Crystal Factory CWD46 lenses (4" x 6") as opposed to the 5"x7" ones everyone in this thread ordered.

If you could do it over would you use the smaller ones? Would the smaller ones still work? Thanks.
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post #190 of 218 Old 11-27-2007, 09:18 AM
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I finally put together the case and the slide mount for these lenses. Put the prisms in the projector light path and tested with the anamorphic HCFR image. I am noticing very bad chroma aberration only on the right side. On the left side, its way way lower. Just to give the idea about prism placement, this is the view from the top. The projector and lens is ceiling mounted.

Also, one thing that I notice, each lens is expanding only on one side and have very little effect on the another. Is this how its supposed to mean?
LL

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post #191 of 218 Old 11-27-2007, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adude View Post


Also, one thing that I notice, each lens is expanding only on one side and have very little effect on the another. Is this how its supposed to mean?

That is my experience as well. Each prism expands half of the image.

The CA on the side can be remedied using masking.

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post #192 of 218 Old 11-27-2007, 08:42 PM
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Well, the right 25% side of the screen is badly affected by the CA. If I can somehow make the CA uniform, by reducing it on the right side and increase on the left.

Any ideas? some position change in the prisms?

Manoj
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post #193 of 218 Old 12-08-2007, 02:37 PM
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Okay, I played around the distance between two prism and noticed that one prism was tilted little bit in other direction as well. I made it straight and CA on both sides became uniform.

Also, one thing to remember. The picture on the screen without the lens should be exact square. Any distortion in the shape will be magnified by the anamorphic lens.

Now back to enjoying movies.

A. Dude

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post #194 of 218 Old 03-05-2008, 10:37 AM
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Is L&L still doing this?
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post #195 of 218 Old 03-26-2008, 10:43 AM
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I guess it would have been easier if I just called them. I just talked to a gentleman there and they will do the one-off's like me. $80 + shipping, and I can't argue with that. They will just work the lens in with another order so we don't have to pay the $500+ that it would be for a custom order. AWESOME.
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post #196 of 218 Old 04-13-2008, 07:03 PM
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I'd still like to see some side-by-sides of the coated prism-based lenses compared to the professionally made lenses. Anyone tried this?
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post #197 of 218 Old 04-13-2008, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uther View Post

I'd still like to see some side-by-sides of the coated prism-based lenses compared to the professionally made lenses. Anyone tried this?

In my shoot out last year...

Mark

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post #198 of 218 Old 04-14-2008, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uther View Post

I'd still like to see some side-by-sides of the coated prism-based lenses compared to the professionally made lenses. Anyone tried this?

I believe Mark/Cavx did that on his website...http://cavx.blogspot.com/2008/01/ana...shoot-out.html

edit: Sorry...I forgot to hit the post button last night.
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post #199 of 218 Old 04-14-2008, 08:00 PM
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Kudos, Mark - very respectable given the $2500 (US) price difference between yours and the commercial lenses. Do you have any additional close-up of the outer 1/3 of the screen? I'm particularly interested in the focus in a real-world image in the outer edges of the frame as I think this would be the most distracting issue for me.

Thanks!
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post #200 of 218 Old 04-14-2008, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uther View Post

Kudos, Mark - very respectable given the $2500 (US) price difference between yours and the commercial lenses. Do you have any additional close-up of the outer 1/3 of the screen? I'm particularly interested in the focus in a real-world image in the outer edges of the frame as I think this would be the most distracting issue for me.

Thanks!

Thanks I will document the benefits soon as I develop the "CAVX Corrector". I have a prototype in development (a work in progress) now...

I will also have a 1080projector by the end pf the week too!!!

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post #201 of 218 Old 05-22-2008, 10:02 PM
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CAVX,

Any update on your latest lens?

Manoj
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post #202 of 218 Old 05-23-2008, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adude View Post

CAVX,

Any update on your latest lens?

Normally I would breaking rules, but seeing as how you asked, coated prisms will be available soon and I am also hoping for (in limited numbers) achromatic doublets for CA correction...

Mark

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post #203 of 218 Old 05-23-2008, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

I am also hoping for (in limited numbers) achromatic doublets for CA correction

This is pretty exciting. I thought you already investigated this and ruled it out!
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post #204 of 218 Old 05-24-2008, 07:47 AM
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Never say never

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post #205 of 218 Old 05-25-2008, 09:13 PM
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This looks promising. I am on the verge of re-doing the anamorphic lens. I am thinking of two ways:
Option 1 - Build a lens from the guts of Hi-Lux Variable anamorphic lens. It has prisms + some kind of correction glass in the front. This lens is meant for long throw, so prisms are too small for projector use. I noticed that the prisms have lot of gap at the beginning, between the prisms and the end. If I can build a smaller housing for these prisms, the image may just fit on these.

In my short test of the Hi-Lux, it looked lot sharper than the my current DIY lens.

Option 2 - Avoid all the hassle and go with the Aussimorphic III. I guess it will be better to wait.

Manoj
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post #206 of 218 Old 08-14-2011, 02:18 PM
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I never used my prisms
I was cleaning the basement and found them new in box.
Anyone want them?

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Watch the progress http://www.avsforum.com/t/1517374/budget-build

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post #207 of 218 Old 08-31-2011, 10:59 AM
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Hey Mark, can i get your MKII lenses coated ? Or are they and thets the best it will get
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post #208 of 218 Old 09-01-2011, 04:44 AM
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Hey Mark, can i get your MKII lenses coated ? Or are they and thets the best it will get

Of course you can Proper multi broad band coatings will be way better than the "anti-reflective" coatings they gave me on the glass at production.

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post #209 of 218 Old 09-01-2011, 05:40 PM
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Of course you can Proper multi broad band coatings will be way better than the "anti-reflective" coatings they gave me on the glass at production.

Interesting. Where do i go from here.....
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post #210 of 218 Old 09-01-2011, 08:14 PM
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From page 1 of this thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcgustafson View Post

Richard at L&L Optics in Mission Viejo, California, www.llopt.com, quoted me $50. per pair of 5x7 prisms if I can put together a group purchase of at least 12 pairs...
...The cost to coat one pair is $525. and I find this prohibitive.

Which is partly why good optics cost as much as it does.

Still worth giving them a call though.

Mark Techer

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