4-Way Acoustically Transparent Masking - Page 28 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #811 of 836 Old 12-31-2012, 01:14 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

When you wrote in your previous post, "the ones I have now you can here click.", I thought that there was a link that one had to click to. I believe that meant to write 'hear' - that changes the meaning. Its clear now. No worries.

Ah yep you are correct, I better go fix that redface.gif


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #812 of 836 Old 12-31-2012, 01:17 PM
Senior Member
 
DIYHomeTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 338
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

Here's a video. In this video I'm using the Xantech remote. One button opens the side masks and one button closes the masks. Of course I will "learn" these buttons to my Harmony Univeral Remote so I don't have to use the Xantech remote.
Looks like you aced it!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DIYHomeTheater is offline  
post #813 of 836 Old 12-31-2012, 01:34 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
ScottJ0007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 650
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

Here is a link to IR controllobale relay switches in multiple configurations (UK site): http://www.quasarelectronics.co.uk/relay-boards.htm#Infrared-Activated-Relay-Boards
Those might work too. You might want to verify that the IR can be used with a standard universal remote. Are you going to go with one of those boards rather than the Xantech?
ScottJ0007 is offline  
post #814 of 836 Old 12-31-2012, 07:43 PM
Senior Member
 
DIYHomeTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 338
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

Those might work too. You might want to verify that the IR can be used with a standard universal remote. Are you going to go with one of those boards rather than the Xantech?
No, I think that I will go with the Xantech for convenience reasons:
- tech support in case there are any issues will be more difficult with a foreign supplier
- Xantech is supported by a number of home automation companies (Roomie, iRule, etc.)
- Cost is nearly the same, even if you buy the 12 relay remote that you can buy from the UK-based company


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DIYHomeTheater is offline  
post #815 of 836 Old 01-01-2013, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
ScottJ0007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 650
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I programmed my Logitech Harmony One universal remote and thought I'd post about a minor issue that I had to resolve. I don't know if this will apply to other remotes or not.

First of all, the Xantech CC12 relay responds to 4 commands:
1) "On" switches the relay from the "NC" (normally closed) position to the "NO" (normally open) position. It stays on until power is lost or until it is turned off.
2) "Off" switches the relay back to the "NC" position after it has been turned on.
3) "Toggle" switches the relay from whatever position it is currently in ("NC" or "NO") to the opposite position.
4) "Momentary" will switch the relay from the OFF ("NC") to ON ("NO") only for as long as the momentary command is being sent to the relay, when you stop sending the command and let go of the button the relay goes back to the OFF position.

The only command I want to use is the last one, "Momentary".

When I programmed the remote, the Logitech database had the Xantech CC12 as one of the component options so I selected it. The problem was that once you select a component the Harmony assumes that you want to turn it ON. This was a problem because every time I turned on my system the masks would turn "ON" (#1 above). I didn't want this.

To solve the problem, I simply went into the programming options and selected an option that let me tell the Harmony that this component did not have an on/off button. This stopped it from sending the "ON" command.
ScottJ0007 is offline  
post #816 of 836 Old 01-01-2013, 12:08 PM
Senior Member
 
DIYHomeTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 338
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
The Xantech website states that the CC12, 'requires an RC68X programmer (Sold Separately)'. Did you need to purchase this? If you have a smartphone or a tablet, you may be able to ditch your Logitech remotes and install Roomie/ iRule/other software that will function as a universal remote.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DIYHomeTheater is offline  
post #817 of 836 Old 01-01-2013, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
ScottJ0007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 650
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

The Xantech website states that the CC12, 'requires an RC68X programmer (Sold Separately)'. Did you need to purchase this? If you have a smartphone or a tablet, you may be able to ditch your Logitech remotes and install Roomie/ iRule/other software that will function as a universal remote.

Yes, I bought a slightly used Xantech RC68X programmer remote (You can see a little bit of it in the video I posted). I used it to teach the codes to my Logitech. I probably didn't really need to get the RC68X but I was wanting to get the project done quickly and I didn't want to take the time to look up the codes, etc.

I've just started looking into Roomie/ iRule. Looks like a very cool solution. I will eventually move in that direction rather than the dedicated universal remote.
ScottJ0007 is offline  
post #818 of 836 Old 01-02-2013, 03:34 AM
Senior Member
 
DIYHomeTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 338
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

In my video above, you can hear the xantech relays click and you can hear the motor as well. It isn't obnoxious though.
Scott
Can you post the wiring schematic for your new circuit!
Best wishes for the new year.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DIYHomeTheater is offline  
post #819 of 836 Old 01-02-2013, 05:14 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
ScottJ0007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 650
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

Scott
Can you post the wiring schematic for your new circuit!
Best wishes for the new year.

Here's another wiring diagram. All three shown below are essentially the same thing, just a little different format...









Note that the Xantech CC12 has a little dial in the upper left corner for a "Code Sub-Group". Each one is set to a different group so that the "momentary" command is unique for each. This way they do not all respond to the same IR command. The instruction manuals from Xantech provide details on how to set these groups.
ScottJ0007 is offline  
post #820 of 836 Old 01-02-2013, 02:13 PM
Senior Member
 
DIYHomeTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 338
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

Here's another wiring diagram. All three shown below are essentially the same thing, just a little different format...
Note that the Xantech CC12 has a little dial in the upper left corner for a "Code Sub-Group". Each one is set to a different group so that the "momentary" command is unique for each. This way they do not all respond to the same IR command. The instruction manuals from Xantech provide details on how to set these groups.

Scott, are you using any of the following: 'Xantech IR Receivers, Keypads and Connecting Blocks'? If so, which one? I don't see them in your pictures or circuit diagram. I dont think that the CC12 has its own IR receiver, correct?
Thanks


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DIYHomeTheater is offline  
post #821 of 836 Old 01-02-2013, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
ScottJ0007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 650
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
In my diagram I show the IR going to an IR connecting block. Any major brand should work.

For most of my IR throughout my theater and home I am using Xantech. It also interfaces with my Lutron Grafik eye lighting system and I have a couple of off brand receivers scattered around as well.

When I built my theater I ran a couple of extra Cat5e wires to the my screen wall from my A/V rack/closet for IR so I have an IR receiver above my screen. The majority of my IR connecting blocks, emitters, power supplies, etc are in my equipment closet.

What IR system are you using in your theater? I would think that the CC12 should work with any major brand of IR distribution products.
ScottJ0007 is offline  
post #822 of 836 Old 01-02-2013, 06:20 PM
Senior Member
 
DIYHomeTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 338
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

In my diagram I show the IR going to an IR connecting block. Any major brand should work.
For most of my IR throughout my theater and home I am using Xantech. It also interfaces with my Lutron Grafik eye lighting system and I have a couple of off brand receivers scattered around as well.
When I built my theater I ran a couple of extra Cat5e wires to the my screen wall from my A/V rack/closet for IR so I have an IR receiver above my screen. The majority of my IR connecting blocks, emitters, power supplies, etc are in my equipment closet.
What IR system are you using in your theater? I would think that the CC12 should work with any major brand of IR distribution products.
I didnt think of running low voltage cables from the AV rack to the screen area. However, Global Cache products work well with iRule/Roomie and I can use my smart phone/tablet:
http://www.globalcache.com/products/itach/wf2irspecs/
I am planning on putting one in my front screen for: masking, projector, and lens sled; and another near the AV rack. This way, all my controls will be off a smart phone/tablet


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DIYHomeTheater is offline  
post #823 of 836 Old 01-05-2013, 02:49 PM
Senior Member
 
DIYHomeTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 338
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am having trouble (no friction) with the vinyl-wrapped 1/16" cable and pulleys. The cables keep slipping. I tired plastic and aluminum pulleys. Due to the slippage, the masks do not move. Anything that I should be doing to increase the friction?
Thanks


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DIYHomeTheater is offline  
post #824 of 836 Old 01-05-2013, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
ScottJ0007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 650
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I wrapped the cable around the pulley twice to gain additional friction.
ScottJ0007 is offline  
post #825 of 836 Old 01-05-2013, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
ScottJ0007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 650
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post


Here is how my vertical masking motor is mounted....

Here is a picture from an earlier post. It is kind of hard to see, but the green cable is wrapped twice around each pulley.
ScottJ0007 is offline  
post #826 of 836 Old 01-06-2013, 04:57 AM
Senior Member
 
DIYHomeTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 338
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

I wrapped the cable around the pulley twice to gain additional friction.
I cant tell the dimension of your pulley from the picture. Mine are 1-1/2" dia. That appears to be smaller than yours, and too small to create the necessary friction even with double wrapping. More wrapping causes the cable to be pinched by itself.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DIYHomeTheater is offline  
post #827 of 836 Old 01-06-2013, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
ScottJ0007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 650
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I'm not at my theater now to measure the pulleys, but I would guess they are about 2 1/2". My suggestions would be:

1) Try bigger pulleys for more surface/friction surface.

2) Make absolutely sure that your side masking rollers spin VERY easily. Back early in this thread I have some pictures that show the roller and thrust bearing setup I have on my rollers. Before I motorized my masking, I could move the side masks with only slight pressure with two fingers. If your masking is at all difficult to move you will have problems with the motor pulley.

- Scott
ScottJ0007 is offline  
post #828 of 836 Old 01-09-2013, 04:07 PM
Senior Member
 
DIYHomeTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 338
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

2) Make absolutely sure that your side masking rollers spin VERY easily. Back early in this thread I have some pictures that show the roller and thrust bearing setup I have on my rollers. Before I motorized my masking, I could move the side masks with only slight pressure with two fingers. If your masking is at all difficult to move you will have problems with the motor pulley.
- Scott

Good advice. Thanks. It worked for the left masking. Now, I got to try it for the right side. I put in masking that can travel 35" on each side (in case I decide to reduce the size of the screen. Now the problem is that in the fully extended position, the top edge of the masking sags under its own weight. The sag disappears when the masking is retracted.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DIYHomeTheater is offline  
post #829 of 836 Old 01-27-2013, 09:15 AM
Senior Member
 
DIYHomeTheater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 338
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Finally got my left/right masks to move symmetrically. Ensuring minimum friction is the key.

Scott, can you post the specs on the diodes that you used? I checked Radio Shack for diodes capable of 20V/5A, but they don't seem to have any. Thanks


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DIYHomeTheater is offline  
post #830 of 836 Old 09-11-2013, 10:22 PM
Member
 
MALIX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Sonoma County CA
Posts: 126
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Is anyone else having trouble seeing the original images and diagram on on page 1 of this thread? Just found this thread for the first time and I am curious to see what scott's original documentation of his build showed... but I dont see the images.

Will delete this ( and figure out why my system is not showing the images)..if its just me having the issue...

Sony HW50ES | Denon X4000 | Rocket RS850s | Rocket RS200 | Rocket RS750s | Rocket RS250s | Quad Stereo integrity 18" d4 sealed subs | Inuke nu46000 | MiniDSP | Oppo 103D

My Build
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MALIX is offline  
post #831 of 836 Old 09-12-2013, 06:47 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by MALIX View Post

Is anyone else having trouble seeing the original images and diagram on on page 1 of this thread? Just found this thread for the first time and I am curious to see what scott's original documentation of his build showed... but I dont see the images.

Will delete this ( and figure out why my system is not showing the images)..if its just me having the issue...

Yes they are gone. I am guessing where ever Scott had them hosted no longer has them, will be up to him to fix it if he can.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
post #832 of 836 Old 09-12-2013, 07:45 PM
Member
 
MALIX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Sonoma County CA
Posts: 126
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Looking to get more info about the aluminum rod, flange and thrust bearing ass'y that Scott used. I saw another post with someone using nylon closet rod base to hold curtain rod. But I'd prefer a smoother operating roller assembly

Any pic of what flange was used to hold bearing?

What diameter aluminum rod was used?

Thanks

Sony HW50ES | Denon X4000 | Rocket RS850s | Rocket RS200 | Rocket RS750s | Rocket RS250s | Quad Stereo integrity 18" d4 sealed subs | Inuke nu46000 | MiniDSP | Oppo 103D

My Build
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MALIX is offline  
post #833 of 836 Old 01-23-2014, 08:00 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Since this seems to be the place with the most info on using the Eagle Aspen Rotor to control masking I just wanted to put in a little update on what I have done. My original masking and Eagle Aspen are still working fine but it is really noisy and rough so I am changing everything to make it supper quiet. One of this big parts of this is switching to a A/C Gear motor that is quiet an slow compared to the motor I used before. Also before I used the original motor from the rotor hooked by a little belt to the A/C motor so it would track position. Surprising how much noise that little belt make at 6000 rpm's.

So I made a control board to switch and reverse the A/C Gear motor. Also with it I have a manual forward and reverse button along with a button to kill power to the entire thing. It is set-up such that if the manual buttons are being used the rotor control is disconnected so both things can not control it at the same time. I used silent relays so the thing is dead quiet.

I ditched the Hall board from the rotor totally. I made my own board based on the component from the original and mounted to the extra shaft on the back of the gear motor. The A/C motor turns a lot slower then the rotor motor did, we are talking 1526 rpm compared to around 6,000 rpm. The original magnet on the hall board was two poles, I found an 8 pole magnet to use on the back of the gear motor so the encoder is seeing 6,104 rpms now. The tracking of number on the screen to the actual motor running is right on now. I know before the number on the control would count up real fast and they the motor would still be running trying to catch up, it worked fine but it bugged me. Plus the accuracy is better the more rpms it sees. Oh and this 8 pole magnet is actually cheap, it is made for the speed control on a industrial pizza oven, part # 369822. They also make a 16 pole version.

I am still using the original control board from the rotor, you can see it attached to the cover of my enclose. Now after all my effort I found out that the two relay used on the board are not silent and make a click, guess I am going OSD but I may try and replace them with a silent version.

















TeeCue likes this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
post #834 of 836 Old 01-23-2014, 08:29 PM
Member
 
TeeCue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 171
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Very impressive! Really admire your dedication. Glad you were able to find and use the 8 pole magnet. In theory this should improve the sensitivity of the sensor. A video of the masking would be great.
Teecue
TeeCue is offline  
post #835 of 836 Old 01-24-2014, 10:32 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mopar_Mudder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 20
I will get a video eventually. I have all the parts and pieces made now, have to paint them black yet. Hope to start tearing apart my existing masking system next week, so a couple of weeks to go yet.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mopar_Mudder is offline  
post #836 of 836 Old 09-13-2014, 09:37 AM
AVS Special Member
 
nathan_h's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 5,004
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 77 Post(s)
Liked: 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post
I'm not at my theater now to measure the pulleys, but I would guess they are about 2 1/2". My suggestions would be:

1) Try bigger pulleys for more surface/friction surface.

2) Make absolutely sure that your side masking rollers spin VERY easily. Back early in this thread I have some pictures that show the roller and thrust bearing setup I have on my rollers. Before I motorized my masking, I could move the side masks with only slight pressure with two fingers. If your masking is at all difficult to move you will have problems with the motor pulley.

- Scott
Love the thread. Any chance you could upload the pictures as an attachment to a new post? (I realize going back and editing the old posts may be time consuming.)

____________________

Build Thread:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nathan_h is offline  
Reply DIY Constant Height

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off