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post #481 of 936 Old 01-16-2012, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurtis Bahr View Post

Take an ohm meter and measure the CLD-79 output. you need to measure the center pin to the ground. It should read around 4.0VDC when a LD is playing and near 0.2VDC when paused or not playing. Also the Lexicon has some selections on the front. One of them is a bias to match the LD player differences. I found it didn't make a difference with my AC-3 addition to my CLD-97 but you never know.

Finally got around to measuring and did get just over 4.0 vdc at the player. I did not get this same signal at the LDD-1. So seems like i have the signal going in but not out; right?

Thanks,
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post #482 of 936 Old 01-16-2012, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rencan View Post

Finally got around to measuring and did get just over 4.0 vdc at the player. I did not get this same signal at the LDD-1. So seems like i have the signal going in but not out; right?

Thanks,

Coming out of the LDD-1 you would get a normal PCM signal, it would not be the RF with the changing DC level. The DC level tells the LDD-1 to mute when it goes low. The reason for this is that the AC-3 decoders would cause a load chirp sound when initially starting to decode so the un-mute happens after the AC-3 RF is sent and processing starts so the chirp is muted. So if this signal is going in to the LDD-1 all you can do is check if the RF signal is present. An oscilloscope is best or you can try to turn your meter to VAC and measure the output before you startup a LD and then measure again after the LD is playing. See what the difference is.
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post #483 of 936 Old 01-17-2012, 07:07 PM
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I'm trying to get my laserdisc buying addiction under control, so I pass this deal onto you if you're into DTS.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jurassic-Par...item4843ac3bd4

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post #484 of 936 Old 01-17-2012, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by EJ View Post

I'm trying to get my laserdisc buying addiction under control, so I pass this deal onto you if you're into DTS.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jurassic-Par...item4843ac3bd4

I keep an eBay search open for DTS LDs, that's a pretty good price. JP2 DTS shows up a lot more than JP1. If you're looking for the good DTS mix after being let down that it wasn't included in the Blu-ray, that's what you're looking for
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post #485 of 936 Old 01-21-2012, 05:23 PM
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I still want those two Orange Road boxes in the worst way, and have yet to find them. If you ever have a burning need to sell them, let me know. I'd happily pay a ridiculous price to obtain those.
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post #486 of 936 Old 01-25-2012, 04:15 PM
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Kurtis do you still do laserdisc repair? I have A Pioneer CLD-D702 that is in need for repair, side switch gets jammed and the door does not open with help. When I originally received it from the seller the tray was knock off of the track and I tried to fix it myself, also the white platter part that holds the laserdisc in place is missing as a RCA LDR-600 I owned its broke so I salvaged the parts from the Pioneer CLD-D702. Also do you still sell players? if so on both accounts, how much would shipping be in northern Indiana. If you do sell them what are you general prices on units like a Pioneer CLD-3080/3380, Elite 95/92 or a Pioneer CLD-D704(or a re-badged unit). Thanks for your time.
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post #487 of 936 Old 01-25-2012, 04:16 PM
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plus now the RCA is giving me trouble, still works fine just the door does not close all the way. Got jammed and I tried to give the door a push thinking it might help.
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post #488 of 936 Old 01-25-2012, 04:26 PM
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Also from the looks of it I would say the RCA had never been serviced. Still has the packaging and box though, paid about 70 for it.
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post #489 of 936 Old 01-25-2012, 09:09 PM
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Just wondering but what are your guy's general opinions of the Pioneer CLD-D606 compared to other players like the D702 or CLD-3080
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post #490 of 936 Old 01-26-2012, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATARI800XLfan View Post

Just wondering but what are your guy's general opinions of the Pioneer CLD-D606 compared to other players like the D702 or CLD-3080

Pioneer's model numbers follow a linear progression from bottom (CLD-S1xx) to top (CLD-D7xx).

The D606 is one level below the CLD-D7xx series. Picture quality gets better the higher you go. The D606's picture is a little soft.

However, note that Pioneer redesigned the D7xx series starting with the D703, which is a noticeable improvement over the previous year's D702. The D703 and D704 (final top-of-the-line model) are the same player aside from the AC-3 RF output on the latter.

Basically, what I'm getting at here is that you should look for a CLD-D703 or D704.

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post #491 of 936 Old 01-26-2012, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATARI800XLfan View Post

I have A Pioneer CLD-D702 that is in need for repair, side switch gets jammed and the door does not open with help.

Unless I'm mistaken, the D702 model had a "transit screw" in the back of the unit that locked the disc tray in place during shipping. You had to remove that in order to eject the tray.

Perhaps a dumb question, but have you removed the screw?

Pioneer did away with the need for the transit screw in the redesign for the D703.

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post #492 of 936 Old 01-26-2012, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurtis Bahr View Post

The composite is a simple mixing of the Y/C signals. With that said, the question is which works better with your monitor. Try both and use the one you like. Most of the time composite wins but not always. Not one answer for all, it is a test of the LD player/monitor interface.

I have a DVL-91, and have both s-video and composite going through a Duo VP. I'm hard-pressed to see a difference, though it's only a casual comparison thus far. I did see a difference going through the VP vs. direct to the TV, but that was with s-video both ways. The contrast was better through the Duo (better blacks). Maybe I'll give the composite/s-video another try at some point.
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post #493 of 936 Old 01-26-2012, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Josh Z View Post

Unless I'm mistaken, the D702 model had a "transit screw" in the back of the unit that locked the disc tray in place during shipping. You had to remove that in order to eject the tray.

Perhaps a dumb question, but have you removed the screw?

Pioneer did away with the need for the transit screw in the redesign for the D703.

Yes, I removed the screw.
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post #494 of 936 Old 01-26-2012, 03:01 PM
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Transit screw was to hold the turn mechanism. Starting with the CLD-DX03 series Pioneer changed to a new type turn over mechanism and the transit screw was removed. It was never really needed with the earlier players either. You have to go way back to where there was a laser holding transit screw.
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post #495 of 936 Old 01-27-2012, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Z View Post

Pioneer's model numbers follow a linear progression from bottom (CLD-S1xx) to top (CLD-D7xx).

The D606 is one level below the CLD-D7xx series. Picture quality gets better the higher you go. The D606's picture is a little soft.

However, note that Pioneer redesigned the D7xx series starting with the D703, which is a noticeable improvement over the previous year's D702. The D703 and D704 (final top-of-the-line model) are the same player aside from the AC-3 RF output on the latter.

Basically, what I'm getting at here is that you should look for a CLD-D703 or D704.

Also I have wondered how does the CLD-3070/3080 compare to later players. While I would like to own a 704/703 this is actually my Christmas money so my limit would be about 200 plus shipping. Is the 702 worth fixing or should I just buy a 3080 from a reputable seller.
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post #496 of 936 Old 01-27-2012, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ATARI800XLfan View Post

Also I have wondered how does the CLD-3070/3080 compare to later players. While I would like to own a 704/703 this is actually my Christmas money so my limit would be about 200 plus shipping. Is the 702 worth fixing or should I just buy a 3080 from a reputable seller.

Well, the 3080 is three years older than the 702, so I would assume you'd be better off having the 702 fixed.

Also, you might be able to get a 704 or 703 for less than $200 + shipping. I got my 703 for $113 (including shipping).
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post #497 of 936 Old 01-27-2012, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by naiaru View Post

Well, the 3080 is three years older than the 702, so I would assume you'd be better off having the 702 fixed.

Also, you might be able to get a 704 or 703 for less than $200 + shipping. I got my 703 for $113 (including shipping).

Where did you get yours?
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post #498 of 936 Old 01-27-2012, 02:50 PM
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Where did you get yours?


rixrex on the LDDB forum
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post #499 of 936 Old 01-27-2012, 10:16 PM
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Finally tracked down a copy at a good price

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post #500 of 936 Old 01-27-2012, 11:01 PM
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Check Ebay's: #250982298463

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post #501 of 936 Old 01-27-2012, 11:14 PM
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Check Ebay's: #250982298463

What's on ebay?
Also how much of a picture quality difference is there between the D702 and D704. Is it huge or very minor?
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post #502 of 936 Old 01-28-2012, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ATARI800XLfan View Post

What's on ebay?
Also how much of a picture quality difference is there between the D702 and D704. Is it huge or very minor?

Go to the Ebay site and enter that number minus the # sign if you are interested in the T2 muse LD.
I had never watched the 702 but I had two 703's with the AC-3 RF output mod and two 704's. Kurtis Bahr had commented heavily praising the 704 "the best bang for the buck." The 702 does NOT have the same comb filter and the DNR options you find on the 703/704 therefore the PQ and SQ for that matter is HUGE; hands down the 703/704 win by KO in the first round

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post #503 of 936 Old 01-28-2012, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Zenyatto View Post

Go to the Ebay site and enter that number minus the # sign if you are interested in the T2 muse LD.
I had never watched the 702 but I had two 703's with the AC-3 RF output mod and two 704's. Kurtis Bahr had commented heavily praising the 704 "the best bang for the buck." The 702 does NOT have the same comb filter and the DNR options you find on the 703/704 therefore the PQ and SQ for that matter is HUGE; hands down the 703/704 win by KO in the first round

What is DNR? will it negatively effect how older movies look? I have quit a few from the early 80's
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post #504 of 936 Old 01-28-2012, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ATARI800XLfan View Post

What is DNR? will it negatively effect how older movies look? I have quit a few from the early 80's

It should be VDNR:
Variable Digital Noise Reduction
The 703/704 both have it on the remote CU-CLD098 and on the player itself. You tweak/adjust the PQ by increasing/decreasing Y/C([luminance/color(chroma)]. These adjustments will not AFFECT but rather enhance the PQ of those early '80 titles. That relies solely on your judgment. Check the UK site and read on the CLD-99 that has the same feature:
www.laserdiscarchive.co.uk
It has a lengthy but very interesting article comparing the CLD-97 VS the CLD-99 which in turn will help you understand the PQ adjustments.
If you research the Sound and Vision archives there was a great reviewing article about the CLD-D704. I have to dig my HT library in which HT mag did another great review on the Mit M-V7057(704 w/a Mit badge). If I find I'll be glad to fax it to you.
I hope this helps.

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post #505 of 936 Old 01-28-2012, 11:06 AM
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I found the Curtco's HT technology(Sep 1995, p.108) magazine article on the Mit M-V7057.
The UK site has part of the Sound and Vision 704 article that I referred to.

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post #506 of 936 Old 01-28-2012, 12:32 PM
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What is DNR? will it negatively effect how older movies look? I have quit a few from the early 80's

I also have a 703 and I'd say the DNR is best left off. While it does cut back on noise, it also cuts back on detail. The picture with DNR on ends up looking REALLY blurry. If you were to bother with DNR at all, you should probably leave it off in the LD player and use a more sophisticated machine, like the Algolith Mosquito.
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post #507 of 936 Old 01-28-2012, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naiaru View Post

I also have a 703 and I'd say the DNR is best left off. While it does cut back on noise, it also cuts back on detail. The picture with DNR on ends up looking REALLY blurry. If you were to bother with DNR at all, you should probably leave it off in the LD player and use a more sophisticated machine, like the Algolith Mosquito.

Are you using composite or S-Video?

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post #508 of 936 Old 01-28-2012, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Zenyatto View Post

Are you using composite or S-Video?

Composite (though I've tried S-video and the only difference was the quality of the Y/C separation)
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post #509 of 936 Old 01-28-2012, 03:09 PM
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Not sure where to put this so I apalogize if this is the wrong spot, but now I am thinking after fixing the D702(or before) about a sound system. I have a room that is about 12 feet wide but long enough for a buffet and a medium side table. I am currently using a 32inch Sony Trinitron Flat tube tv from 2004 that has a simulated surround sound option. I was wondering would I really need a large system for the size of room. What do you guys think of the Onkyo GXW-5.1. What I am trying to figure out is if it will have enough power to make that much of a difference. My TV has 15 watt speakers( I think they run along vertical on both sides of the TV for the full length) Is it worth getting a surround sound system even if it is small or just stick with my tv speakers. Would prefer not to spend to much as this will just be a basic system until I get my own house.
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post #510 of 936 Old 01-28-2012, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naiaru View Post

I also have a 703 and I'd say the DNR is best left off. While it does cut back on noise, it also cuts back on detail. The picture with DNR on ends up looking REALLY blurry. If you were to bother with DNR at all, you should probably leave it off in the LD player and use a more sophisticated machine, like the Algolith Mosquito.

Quote:
Originally Posted by naiaru View Post

Composite (though I've tried S-video and the only difference was the quality of the Y/C separation)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zenyatto View Post

Are you using composite or S-Video?


On my DVL-90 fed to a DVDO Edge I have found setting the DVNR to minimum on Y and maximum on C gives the best results. Reduces the noise in the colors without effecting the detail. Oh, I am using the s-video connection as it gives a more pleasing picture with my set-up. Composite looks soft and has more smearing by comparison.
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