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post #91 of 2187 Old 01-16-2005, 01:57 PM
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Stew,
Remember to re-calibrate the basic blacks/whites/colors/sharpness levels on your TV for the HDMI connection. It is quite common for TVs to need different level settings between Component and HDMI. For example, HDMI may need even LESS Sharpness than the already reduced level of Sharpness you were using with your calibrated Component input.

These digital connections really do repay any time spent getting them dialed in "just right".
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post #92 of 2187 Old 01-16-2005, 05:43 PM
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Tunerguy,

The 59avi has set crossover frequencies that are dependent on your selecting either large or small.

Does anyone know what these "canned" crossover frequencies are?

James
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post #93 of 2187 Old 01-16-2005, 07:02 PM
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I believe, but I'm not sure, that the crossover is 80Hz for steering base to the subwoofer from any speaker channel set as "small", but that no bass is steered to the subwoofer from any speaker channel set as "large".
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post #94 of 2187 Old 01-16-2005, 07:25 PM
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However I think that Pioneer starts I-link support only at the 56txi level receiver.

The 49txi has i.Link inputs. "i" suffixes are for "i.Link equipped" in Elite model #'s. 47ai, 59avi, 49txi, 56txi, 59txi, etc.

larry

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post #95 of 2187 Old 01-16-2005, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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That's my understanding as well. 80Hz is probably the best set frequency to do this, though I may set it a bit lower if I had the option (for the front two speakers anyway).
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post #96 of 2187 Old 01-16-2005, 07:47 PM
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PooperScooper,
Thanks for that clarification re Pioneer I-linked equipped products!
--Bob

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post #97 of 2187 Old 01-16-2005, 11:36 PM
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Review of the latest Sony 975 SACD/CD/DVD player in the new S&V. It uses a ... 120 Hz crossover for CD and SACD.

Also, as far as that DVD-R that I have? Got confirmation that it indeed wasn't finalized. The dude is going to get me another one.

If it's not worth waiting until the last minute to do, then it's not worth doing.

KevinVision 7.1 ... Something old and something new :-)

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post #98 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 07:24 AM
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Jeff:

That's my plan.....hang onto the 59 AVi until Blu-Ray (if that's the direction the industry is goin?????) players and software gets a couple of iterations under its belt. Plus, I'll also wait until those prices drop. I figure I'm 3-4 years away from upgrading the 59 AVi.

Can't comment about analog bass management of the 59 AVi, although I do think it is 80Hz for the crossover. I can comment about i-link for all hi rez formats. It's the best audio performances I've heard.......ever! That said, I'm using the 59 AVi with a 59 TXi AVR which does BM via MCACC.

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post #99 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 08:06 AM
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graphicguy,
Just curious but have you tested the automatic speaker setup of your 59txi against what you would have done manually? I.e., have you run some separate tests with a sound pressure meter and also double checked the time alignment to see how good the automatic setup with te microphones actually turns out to be in the 59txi?
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post #100 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Frankly I think that one should always adjust the speaker volume manually with an SPL meter for better accuracy. My Parasound C 2 has auto calibration as well, and it was actually fairly close to accurate. But fairly close is still off by a few dB depending on the speaker....and the subwoofer wasn't even close.
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post #101 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 09:11 AM
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Hi Bob.....I did compare MCACC to what I did with the Rat Shack meter and a tape measure. 59 TXi did a better job than I could do manually by a singnificant margin....most particularly with getting rid of some BM anomalies in my room. Long and short of it, with MCACC the bass is totally integrated with all the other speakers in my set-up without any localization cues present. Although I have di-pole surrounds, I can't pinpoint any directionality with surround material either.

Front to back, side to side imaging is very cohesive compared to what I got by just using an tape measure and SPL meter.

Moreover, rechecking with a tape measure and SPL meter, I could not have gotten any better measurements than what MCACC did.....even with my sub. Probably the biggest difference has been the LFE material that plays through my system by using MCACC. Although my surrounds only go down to about 70 Hz, I could swear they sound like they go down to 20 Hz by using MCACC.

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post #102 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 09:20 AM
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Graphicguy,
Interesting! Now as I understand it the 59txi doesn't also try to do automatic room equalization ala the automatic setup system in say the Lexicon MC-12B, right? Just time alignment, level setting, and bass steering. No frequency based corrections for the room.

Also, do you find any difference in the usefulness of the automatic setup according to whether you are playing DVDs, CDs, or SACD? Some folks have reported instances with other players and receivers where the base management that was right for DVDs and CDs was grossly off when playing SACDs.
--Bob

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post #103 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 10:43 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Bob Pariseau
Graphicguy,
Interesting! Now as I understand it the 59txi doesn't also try to do automatic room equalization ala the automatic setup system in say the Lexicon MC-12B, right? Just time alignment, level setting, and bass steering. No frequency based corrections for the room.

Also, do you find any difference in the usefulness of the automatic setup according to whether you are playing DVDs, CDs, or SACD? Some folks have reported instances with other players and receivers where the base management that was right for DVDs and CDs was grossly off when playing SACDs.
--Bob

Hey Bob...the 59 TXi AVR's MCACC also has 9 bands of eqaulization in addition to room reverberation measurements/adjustments that it does automatically. Since I use i-link with my 59 AVi DVD player, it's all done in the digital domain....no need to set different crossover settings for each speaker since the MCACC does that for me and does it well.

It won't make a poorly mastered CD sound better, but I find DVD-A, SACD, DVD to be spot on. In fairness, since I've really shifted my listening to DVD concert disks and hi-rez, I haven't listened to many redbook CDs (relegating them to use in my car, mostly).

Music so high you can't get over it....music so low you can't get under it!
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post #104 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 11:11 AM
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Thanks for the info! These devices really do add features faster than I can keep up with them.
--Bob

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post #105 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 11:32 AM
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Bob...I totally know what you mean. As soon as I think I'm "state-of-the art", I find out I'm outdated again. If I triedd to stay current, I'd be swapping out gear every month.

For right now, I'm set until blu-ray becomes the norm.

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post #106 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 04:01 PM
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I've read the manual a few times and can't find a reference to a zoom function for the 59avi. Has anyone, by chance, found any type of a zoom function?
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post #107 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by hibeta
I've read the manual a few times and can't find a reference to a zoom function for the 59avi. Has anyone, by chance, found any type of a zoom function?

There is no zoom function.
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post #108 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 04:46 PM
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You have limited options in the 59avi itself.

Set this in Initial Settings / Video Output for everything except HDMI -- but set it in Initial Settings / Options / HDMI Settings for HDMI output (the two sets of settings are independent of one another).

If your TV is a 16:9 (widescreen) TV, your choices are "Wide" mode which passes 16:9 content unchanged and stretches 4:3 content left and right to fill the 16:9 frame (distorting the image -- i.e., circles look like wide ovals), or "Compressed" mode which also passes 16:9 content unchanged but puts black pillar boxes on either side of 4:3 content so as to preserve the original undistorted shape of the 4:3 movie nestled between the two pillar boxes on either side padding it out to 16:9 width.

If your TV is a 4:3 (conventionally shaped) TV, your choices are "Letter Box" mode which passes 4:3 content through unchanged and generates black letter box bars above and below 16:9 content so as to pad it out to the squarer 4:3 shape, or "Pan & Scan" mode which also passes 4:3 content through unchanged but chops the sides off of 16:9 content so that it fills the 4:3 frame without distortion but with material cropped off either side.

In either case, the 16:9 or 4:3 content detection happens automatically once you make your choice -- even scene by scene which sometimes happens when viewing "extras" content on a DVD.

For folks with 16:9 TVs, I recommend you only use "Compressed" mode at 720p or 1080i resolution, since at 480i or 480p resolution the generated pillar box bars for 4:3 content will detract from the resolution, particularly the color resolution of the 4:3 content nestled in the middle. The alternative for 480i or 480p is to use Wide mode and use a stretch/zoom mode on your TV to compress the image back to 4:3 shape and generate the pillar box bars -- which your TV can do without loss of resolution.

If you are watching "wider than wide screen" movies, even on a 16:9 TV, you will see Letter Box bars top and bottom because they are in the content coming off the DVD (which includes no wider than 16:9 frames). The 59avi has no stretch/zoom modes to distort or crop such wider than wide screen movies to fill your TV's frame. Some TVs may offer this option, but it is unusual to find it on TVs when using high res digital video inputs, since the TV makers have not yet determined the marketing need to pay for sufficiently fast scalers to do the job.

If you prefer to watch distorted or cropped movies in such case instead of the letter box bars that are there to preserve the original aspect ratio of the "wider than wide screen" movie, your workaround would be to switch to lower output resolution, and quite possibly to analog video cables, so as to get to the stretch/zoom modes in your TV that are only available for that sort of input signal.

Note also that "wide screen" DVDs come in two flavors. The "anamorphically enhanced" or "enhanced for 16:9 TVs" wide screen DVDs actually represent 16:9 frames and are your best choice. But there are also "letterboxed" wide screen DVDs which are actually recordings of wide screen movies intended to be watched on 4:3 TVs. As such, they include letterbox bars top and bottom to pad the movie to the 4:3 shape, and all those pixels are just wasted resolution. In addition, the 59avi will detect such movies as 4:3 content (even though they include a wide screen movie), and so in "16:9 Compressed" mode the 59avi will generate black pillar box bars on either side of the movie. Since the movie already has its own letter box bars included in the content on the DVD, the net effect is you will see a properly shaped movie but completely surrounded by black on all 4 sides.
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post #109 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 05:05 PM
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Thank you for the replies.
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post #110 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bob Pariseau


Note also that "wide screen" DVDs come in two flavors. The "anamorphically enhanced" or "enhanced for 16:9 TVs" wide screen DVDs actually represent 16:9 frames and are your best choice. But there are also "letterboxed" wide screen DVDs which are actually recordings of wide screen movies intended to be watched on 4:3 TVs. As such, they include letterbox bars top and bottom to pad the movie to the 4:3 shape, and all those pixels are just wasted resolution. In addition, the 59avi will detect such movies as 4:3 content (even though they include a wide screen movie), and so in "16:9 Compressed" mode the 59avi will generate black pillar box bars on either side of the movie. Since the movie already has its own letter box bars included in the content on the DVD, the net effect is you will see a properly shaped movie but completely surrounded by black on all 4 sides.
--Bob

Bob,

I put in Jurrasic Park III yesterday and while I didn't watch the movie, I wanted to see the trailers for all three movies (which are on this 1 disc). All three trailers were formated in 16:9, but it was much smaller than my screen (black bars on top, bottom, and both sides). Is this because the trailers were letterboxed (I have it set to 16:9 Compressed)? I guess I haven't watched a letterboxed movie yet, because I haven't seen this before.

When watching a letterboxed movie, should I change the setting to 16:9 wide to fill up more of the screen or would that distort it too much?

Also, is there a way to have the DVD players front display show the time remaining in the movie? Currently it shows how much time has elapsed in the current chapter.


Thanks,

Stew

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post #111 of 2187 Old 01-17-2005, 09:42 PM
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Stew,
Yes, trailers and "extras" on a DVD are often produced in only 4:3 format, even when showing wide content, and then the same 4:3 content is put on both widescreen and fullscreen DVDs. So what you saw was how a letterboxed movie would look on a 16:9 TV in "Compressed" mode.

If you have a letterboxed DVD, the best way to view it is going to depend upon what flexibility your TV offers in Stretch/Zoom modes. Some TVs have a specific zoom mode for receiving a letter boxed movie (a 16:9 movie embedded in a 4:3 frame with letterbox bars top and bottom) and zooming in on it to fill the 16:9 screen again. Of course that's a lower resolution approach then if you used an anamorphic wide screen movie. You'll just have to experiment to see what works best for you. Or only buy anamorphic wide screen movies.

The Display button on the remote brings up two pages of info on your TV screen including time and chapters elapsed and time and chapters remaining info. I seem to recall that the front panel shifts to showing time remaining when that page of Display info is showing on the TV but I might be mistaken. I don't know of any way to adjust the front panel info as a preference or menu selection.
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post #112 of 2187 Old 01-18-2005, 06:17 AM
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Can someone PM me on where to buy online.Interested in checking out
authorized and non authorized dealers as well as possible refurbished.
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post #113 of 2187 Old 01-18-2005, 06:55 AM
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RONM,

Augiogon and videogon often have authorized resellers posting there.
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post #114 of 2187 Old 01-18-2005, 10:42 AM
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Here is the link for European version of 59avi - 868avi: http://www.pioneer-eur.com/eur/produ...onomy_id=45-64
btw they don't have an elite product line. This player is multiregion and supports both Pal and NTSC (perhaps not in all countries it is multiregion by default). Also the instruction manual for 59avi is universal. It is the same manual for 969avi, which I think is Australian model. It also capable of playing Pal movies. 969avi would be the best choice since its power supply can handle a broad range of intput voltages, so that it can virtually work in any country.
Here is the link where you can find 868avi reviews in European magazines. Just search for dvd players, made by pioneer manufacter and then select 868avi to see the review: http://www.homecinemachoice.com/reviews/
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post #115 of 2187 Old 01-18-2005, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by tpaxadpom
Here is the link for European version of 59avi - 868avi: http://www.pioneer-eur.com/eur/produ...onomy_id=45-64
btw they don't have an elite product line. This player is multiregion and supports both Pal and NTSC (perhaps not in all countries it is multiregion by default). Also the instruction manual for 59avi is universal. It is the same manual for 969avi, which I think is Australian model. It also capable of playing Pal movies. 969avi would be the best choice since its power supply can handle a broad range of intput voltages, so that it can virtually work in any country.
Here is the link where you can find 868avi reviews in European magazines. Just search for dvd players, made by pioneer manufacter and then select 868avi to see the review: http://www.homecinemachoice.com/reviews/

Thanks for the info.

An important factor for myself and perhaps for others who want multi-region capability but are stuck with either an exclusively PAL or NTSC display, is the players ability to to perform the PAL to NTSC/NTSC to PAL conversion on-board. These Pioneers do not do conversion.

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post #116 of 2187 Old 01-18-2005, 07:47 PM
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I just noticed that with the direct-to-display HDMI connection, I no longer have access to my receivers OSD. Is there a work around for this?

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post #117 of 2187 Old 01-18-2005, 07:51 PM
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Bluesea,
Not that I know of. I use a separate S-video run from my Lexicon audio processor to my display for those infrequent occasions when I need to make menu item changes. Other stuff I do using the front panel display on the Lexicon.
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post #118 of 2187 Old 01-18-2005, 07:54 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Bob Pariseau
Bluesea,
Not that I know of. I use a separate S-video run from my Lexicon audio processor to my display for those infrequent occasions when I need to make menu item changes. Other stuff I do using the front panel display on the Lexicon.
--Bob

Bummer, I'm so used to the huge OSD. If I ran S-video from all components to the receiver, would that keep the OSD and still benefit from the HDMI and other component cable connection's superior qualities? DVD player, DVD player, Receiver, etc...
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post #119 of 2187 Old 01-18-2005, 10:08 PM
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Bob-

I had a Pan S97 hooked up HDMI>DVI into an IF 7200 working w/out problem. I hooked up my new (but used: 2 mos. old) 59AVi w/the same HDMI connection that worked on the S97. (Pure Audio is Off.)

The HDMI light did not go on on the 59AVi, and in the set up menu when I clicked on HDMI settings I got the Message: "cannot access these functions." I tried powering player first, then proj, and the reverse. Plugged the HDMI into the S97 again and it worked perfectly.

Am I doing something wrong? No HDCP Handshake? Thanks.

Bob
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post #120 of 2187 Old 01-19-2005, 09:12 AM
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Cissado,
For every device that you have hooked up directly to your TV, also run a video connection to your receiver (Component or S-video). Then run Component or S-video from your receiver to your TV as well..

When you want to use the on-screen display functions combining the receiver's display with the source devices image or on-screen display, simply select the input on your TV that comes from the receiver.

Once you are done setting things, if you want to take advantage of the better image quality of the direct connection from the source -- for example if it is a digital connection. Then switch the TV to that direct input.
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