FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions about DVD players - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 75 Old 12-30-2005, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Update: 6/11/2006

Out of the blue came a great contribution from AVS member ADU. What he did took a fair amount of effort and I appreciate it, and I hope others will too.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7809555

I had missed this post. Some more answers: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7641277


larry


Here's a start at a FAQ list for this forum. Please reply with any additions or if you want to volunteer to answer a question. Answers can be text only or have links to posts here at AVS or elsewhere in addition to some text. Hopefully this will be a group effort. Probably the best way to do this inside the forum software is to make each answer a separate post. So, in the 2nd post there will be the answered questions with a link to the post in the thread that answers the question. Editing separate posts will make things easier also. And once a question is answered and everybody is happy with the answer, I'll can delete any "collateral" posts in this thread.

1) Is DVI/HDMI better than component?
2) What is an upscaling DVD player?
3) What is an upconverting DVD player?
(see upscaling DVD player above)
4) What is this "macroblocking" everybody is talking about?
5) What is deinterlacing?
6) What is progressive scan?
7) What is native resolution?
8) What DVD players output 480i via HDMI?
9) What DVD players upscale/upconvert via component outputs?
10) What is i.Link?
11) What is DenonLink?
12) Will I get a better picture if I buy an upconverting DVD player?
13) What is BTB? (and what is WTW?)
14) Do I have to pay $100 or more for a DVI or HDMI cable?
15) Will expensive component cables make a difference?
16) Which will sound better, coax or optical output on my DVD player?
17) What DVD players output 1080p?
18) What DVD players allow you to make custom resolutions?
19) Why do I still have black bars on my widescreen tv?
20) Why does my image seem stretched? Help!
21) What is pillarboxing?

Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. -- Thomas Alva Edison
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post #2 of 75 Old 12-30-2005, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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reserved for questions and links to answers

Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. -- Thomas Alva Edison
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post #3 of 75 Old 12-30-2005, 09:12 AM
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Why do I still have black bars on my widescreen tv? Why does my image seem stretched? What is pillarboxing?

[Great! Thanks...larry]

But in my own way, I am King. Hail to the King, baby.

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post #4 of 75 Old 01-17-2006, 10:41 AM
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First Post

What is 3:2 frame pulldown?

Should this pulldown be done by the DVD player or the television?

What is 3:3 frame pulldown?
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post #5 of 75 Old 02-13-2006, 07:59 AM
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What do all those (custom resolution) settings mean on my upscaling DVD player?

What effect will it have on the picture when I adjust each of the following: HorizFreq, Video Width, HSyncTotal, HSyncActive, VSyncTotal, VSyncActive, HSyncPol, VertFreq, VideoHeight, PreHSync, PostHSync, PreVSync, PostVSync, VSyncPol

Why does this six weeks old sticky post contain only questions?
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post #6 of 75 Old 02-18-2006, 05:39 PM
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Why did AVS split HD-DVD from the regular DVD forum?

Bob
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post #7 of 75 Old 02-28-2006, 03:59 PM
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Where are the answers to this FAQ list?
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post #8 of 75 Old 03-01-2006, 01:31 PM
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That's what I want to know!
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post #9 of 75 Old 03-13-2006, 10:36 PM
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what sort of FAQ is posted without answers? Seems like a waste of time...gimme back the 2 minutes I wasted on this thread

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post #10 of 75 Old 03-14-2006, 01:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry. I've had little time to spend on the FAQ. And you can see that there hasn't been any people rushing up to volunteer.

larry

Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. -- Thomas Alva Edison
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post #11 of 75 Old 03-25-2006, 03:01 PM
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suggestion; If someone knows a good, short answer to one of the questions, post it. Then maybe pooperscooper can link ithe response to the question listed on the first thread.

I for one, am somewhat knowledgable on some of these topics, but I am in no position to make a fool of myself
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post #12 of 75 Old 04-23-2006, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ja Phule View Post

Why do I still have black bars on my widescreen tv? Why does my image seem stretched? What is pillarboxing?
Snip . . .

You know the answer, Why didn't you answer it? I'm tired of answering this question .

1. -- Basically black bars on the top and bottom are because the 16:9 format (1.78:1 width to height) is not the ratio that "Widescreen" movies are shot in. They're usually shot in 1.85:1 up to 2.40:1 which will leave black bars at the top and bottom when shown in their correct AR (aspect ratio). The exception is Widescreen IMAX movies, which are shot in the 1.78:1 (16:9) format.

2. -- Pillar boxing is the placement of black bars on each side of a 4:3 video when shown on a 16:9 display.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WaxDonuts View Post

What is 3:2 frame pulldown?

Should this pulldown be done by the DVD player or the television?

What is 3:3 frame pulldown?

1. -- 3:2 pulldown is the process which is used to convert 24 fps (frames per second) movies to 30 fps video.

2. -- This pull down has to be done in the DVD player, because our displays run at 60 Hz = 30 fps.

3. -- 3:3 pulldown doesn't exist, AFIK. There is no need to convert 30fps to 30fps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donny Bahama View Post

What do all those (custom resolution) settings mean on my upscaling DVD player?

What effect will it have on the picture when I adjust each of the following: HorizFreq, Video Width, HSyncTotal, HSyncActive, VSyncTotal, VSyncActive, HSyncPol, VertFreq, VideoHeight, PreHSync, PostHSync, PreVSync, PostVSync, VSyncPol

Why does this six weeks old sticky post contain only questions?

1. -- Read the manual for the player, it should tell you at least a little about them.

2. -- You have to identify the DVD player. Most players don't have those adjustments. You need to read up on video display technology to get the detailed information (and that can get very technical very fast).

3. -- Because it takes a lot of work to find where (if at all) these questions are answered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rbmcgee View Post

Why did AVS split HD-DVD from the regular DVD forum?

1. -- Because this forum is for Standard Definition DVD, per the title. Hi-Def players have their own unique set of problems and perfomance characteristics.

-----

To everyone else: because it takes a lot of work to find where (if at all) these questions are answered .

- Claus {non-Santa model}
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post #13 of 75 Old 05-04-2006, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

3. -- 3:3 pulldown doesn't exist, AFIK. There is no need to convert 30fps to 30fps.

this is from the Pio site (regarding the 5060 plasma). I don't pretend to understand it--maybe it's just ad hype:

"We think that films should look like what the director originally captured on film. But unfortunately, when they're transferred from film to DVD, films often lose something in the process. That something is their unique, natural imagery, and that's why our Advanced PureCinema, with 3:3 pulldown at 72 Hz, is important. It faithfully and accurately restores that original film-like look to movies on DVD (and yes, even on videotape)"

I don't know what they do, but DVDs look great on my 5060, even tho I play them on a 10-yr-old Toshiba DVD player. Not progressive, not upscaling. Does the Pio do the upscaling?
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post #14 of 75 Old 05-11-2006, 12:49 PM
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1) Is DVI/HDMI better than component?
DVI signal is before digital to analog conversion which cannot improve the signal.

2) What is an upscaling DVD player?
The DVD player attempts to connect-the-dots to add scan lines that were not present in the recorded images. The result is often visually pleasing, but will not contain additional detail not previously present. This feature is associated with digital (HDMI) video output and is of particular interest when the DVD is better than the display is at scaling to the display's native resolution.
3) What is an upconverting DVD player?
(see upscaling DVD player above)
The DVD player attempts to connect-the-dots to add scan lines that were not present in the recorded images. The result is often visually pleasing, but will not contain additional detail not previously present. This feature is associated with analog (component, VGA, SCART) video output and is of interest for either CRT projectors or for digital displays without HDMI when when the DVD is better than the display is at scaling to the display's native resolution

4) What is this "macroblocking" everybody is talking about?
Macroblocks are always present in compressed video, they are genereally visible as the square blurs that show up in fast action scenes or square splats of junk when there is a signal problem, e.g. fingerprints on the DVD, satellite TV during a blizzard. Why they show up is a long story...
In the beginning the FFT begat the DCT which begat JPEG, which begat MPEG the 1st which begat MPEG the 2nd, which begat MPEG the 4th, which begat Ray, the Blue... And in all of these the DCT was computed within an 8 x 8 box, these being the third power of two, for the powers of 2 are sacred unto the hardware and also the most fertile radix of the FFT and all its descendents for all generations. These 8x8 boxes are the veseels of the spectral powers that compress the frothy ergodic image bits into a solid block, packed and full of bit-entropy. So great is the power of these blocks that they are called the MACRO-BLOCKS. Whenever the foolish attempt to starve their bits or err when serving them, their wroth cannot be concealed and their form shows itself blotting out all things - yea crushing dissenting detail within their bound. Woe be to them who starve them or serve their bits in error, for they shall see only the block.

5) What is deinterlacing?
De-interlacing is the interlacing that converts a stream of pictures to a video signal suitable for broatcast and display on a CRT. The face of the CRT is coated with phosphors that light up when excited and then fade out. If the phosphors don't fade quickly, all motion turns to a blur. If the phosphors do fade quickly, the top of the screen has faded before the bottom has been excited. If the pictures were sent twice as fast, then there would have been only 6 TV channels instead of 12. So... to get from top to bottom twice as fast first only the odd numbered scan lines are sent, and then back to the top and then the even numbered scan lines are sent. The original TV cameras used an image-orthicon tube scanned just like the display tubes. When they send a 24fps movie out on NTSC TV systemsat 30fps it causes a visual stutter called judder if they just repeat 8 of the 24 frames to get the 30. It looks a lot better if the frame changes in between even and odd scan lines since those scan fields go by 60 times a second. On the PAL systems they speed the film up to 25fps which shifts the voices and music off key, but that became fixable when computers became fast enough.
De-interlacing film that was converted to video is just finding the interlaced fields that go with each frame and merging them.
De-interlacing true video has a problem... Objects in motion moved in between the even and odd fields. There can be a noticable haircomb look to vertical edges that were in motion... "combing". If the frame rate is doubled each frame contains one up-to-date field and one stale field. Blending the fields blurs the moving parts of the image. Tracking the motions and synthesizing a frame in the middle of the two fields makes it possible to recover foreground objects in the center of the frame. Objects entering the frame, or being revealed behind objects in motion can't always be fixed up this way. There is no perfect solution to this problem.

6) What is progressive scan?
Progressive scan is a video signal that sends all the scan lines sequentially from top to bottom, as opposed to interlaced. It isn't always the same as a de-interlaced signal, but it is always what a de-interlaced should have been...

7) What is native resolution?
Every current digital video technology assumes that each image is made up of a grid of pixels. Some current assumptions are that the grid is 352, 640, 704, 720, 800, 1024, 1200, or 1920 pixels wide, and 240, 480, 540, 576, 720, or 1080 pixels high. When a device must change the resolution of a signal in order to process it, it converts it to its native resolution, this conversion can never improve the signal, only degrade it.
For example, to fill its screen a digital video display (plasmaa, LCD or DLP) that with a native resolution of 800 x 600 must convert all incoming signals to 800 x 600 in order to display them. This conversion necessarily degrades the signal, the only choice is how to trade off blurring and ringing.
Analog systems have a different but analogous constraint called bandwidth. A CRT projector can potentially be driven to directly display any assumed grid resolution. If the image resolution exceeds the video bandwidth of the projector then details will blur. If the image resolution is too low, the CRT projector may be dim or show scan lines because it is drawing the image with too narrow a line. Practical CRT projectors have a limited selection of scan rates, corresponding to those useful for its bandwidth and spot size.

8) What DVD players output 480i via HDMI?
There is no reason to send interlaced video over HDMI, but if it convinces people to buy one, it will be on the box.

9) What DVD players upscale/upconvert via component outputs?
Its easier to find the feature on HDMI, but no list will ever be complete.

10) What is i.Link?
Sony's proprietary implementation of the IEEE-1394 standard generally known as FireWire. I.Link uses only the four signal pins, discarding the two pins that provide power to the device in favor of a separate power connector on Sony's i.Link products. (Edited from the Wikipedia article)

11) What is DenonLink?
A proprietary digital video interface used by Denon before Firewire was available. There are several incompatible levels and revisions.

12) Will I get a better picture if I buy an upconverting DVD player?
No, but your display device may produce a more pleasing result. If you have an LCD or DLP display, the result should not be more pleasing unless there's something wrong with the internal conversion to native resolution that this can help sidestep. If you have a CRT the result might be more pleasing... or not.

13) What is BTB? (and what is WTW?)
These are abbreviations for acronyms the refer to video signals levels beyond the displayable range that are used for synchronization. BTB stands for Blacker Than Black. WTW stands for Whiter Than White. There is a temptation to believe that 0v is black and 1v is white, but in fact it depends on the video system. Broadcast video is sent with the maximum signal being black because added noise, or snow, is more prominient on a small signal and less visible on white.

14) Do I have to pay $100 or more for a DVI or HDMI cable?
If you want to find a better price, try shopping around, try Froogle, try eBay. I'd say it was hard to spend $100 on one, but a fool and his money are soon parted, so you might as well spend it on the cable since she won't like any better after dinner at an expensive restaurant than she did before.
If you want one for free try dropping a lot of hints and see if anyone gives you one for Christmas.
If that fails and you want to have a $100 cable without the risk of becoming a guest at the county hotel, paying for it would be a good idea.

15) Will expensive component cables make a difference?
They will to your dealer... The simple technical truth is that RCA connector is so bad that nothing else makes much difference between cables less than 4 feet long. Even audio patch cords. At those lengths better coaxial wire with less loss only encourages more ringing between the discontinuities at the connectors which has a much worse effect on the picture than the high frequency loss. For long cable runs a lower loss cable may be helpful, a double sheilded cable will certailnly be more helpful. RCA to type F adapters make it possible to create an excelent cabling solution that is also cost effective. Braided sheilds are more forgiving, so be wary of foil sheilded cable, unsupported bends at the equipment ends will probably become too sharp and the sheild will develop gaps just as it does for repeated flexing.
Don't waste money on "gold plated" connectors. Gold isn't a superior conductor (silver is), its only value is corrosion protection, but it takes a thick coating to close the pores so the base metal oxide mushroom heads don't dominate the surface. The 5 to 30 micro-inch gold wash on consumer connectors provides little or no corrosion protection. It takes 100 to 300 microinches of gold over 60 to 100 microinches of nickel over at least 30 microinches of copper over the base metal to achieve reasonable corrosion protection.
Do replace cables more often... especially if you live in the city. Consumer cabling lacks any gas barriers, the fine wires in the shielding oxidize readily, especially in urban areas where sulfer levels are higher. Coaxial cables don't stand up well to abuse. Cables run across the floor decline rapidly.
Cables with that really nice feel - soft and flexible and smooth like butter - are worthless. From a technical standpoint the most desirable construction is a solid uniform silver tube containing a silver rod supported by stiffened air. The larger the diameter the better. The less a given coaxial cable resembles the ideal the worse it performs. Of course, the ideal one is a bit of a pain to install...

16) Which will sound better, coax or optical output on my DVD player?
Both, or neither if you prefer. There is no reason that either interface should have any bit errors at the bit rates used. That said, the coaxial interface has a greater risk of bit errors from ground loops (think "hum") and the optical link has a greater risk of bit errors from cable and connector damage and failure. In either case persistent subtle differences are unlikely, if there's a problem, you'll hear it.

17) What DVD players output 1080p?
The ones that say they do... they probably say "HDTV" or "HD-DVD" or "Blue-Ray" or "HD-DivX" or whatever the marketing gimmick of the week is. The "upsomething" ones may also produce the signal format. If all else fails try an HTPC.

18) What DVD players allow you to make custom resolutions?
People made their customary New Years resolutions long before there were DVD players. If you want a DVD player that will change the resolution of the signal, then you either want standards conversion PAL <-> NTSC or you want upconversion or line doubling. If you want one that will do a lot of things you've never been able to find, then you probably want an HTPC.

19) Why do I still have black bars on my widescreen tv?
Assuming you haven't been incarcerated, you probably need to let your DVD player or set top box know about your new TV. Somewhere this is a setup screen where you need to tell the signal source that it is sending the signal to a 16:9 display. The factory default for these devices is "4:3 Letterbox", which is what your old TV was.

20) Why does my image seem stretched? Help!
If everyone looks like Stan Laurel, then the signal source, the DVD player or set top box, is set to 16:9 and the display is 4:3. If everyone looks like Oliver Hardy, then the signal source is set to 4:3 and the display is 16:9. Some 16:9 displays are capable of outsmarting the signal source, you may need to check the setup.

21) What is pillarboxing?
When a 4:3 image is shown on a 16:9 display, the height is filled before the width, leaving extra space at the sides. When the opposite occurs displaying a 16:9 image on a 4:3 display its called letterboxing. What the US Postal Service calls a leterbox is known on the opposite side if the Atlantic to the Royal Mail as a pillarbox. That's why letterboxing looks a bit like a letter, and pillarboxing doesn't look much like a pillar. The names were chosen by someone who was feeling 'oh so very very clever' that day.
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post #15 of 75 Old 05-12-2006, 12:55 AM
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I apologize for posting a reply rather than starting a new thread, but for the life of me, after 5 minutes, I could not locate a "Post New Msg." button.
I have a "Collectors's Edition Apollo 13" DVD that is quite old, came out when DVDs were pretty new. I find that I can not play it on my recent Panasonic DVD player. The case says "This disc is compatible with all DVD players displaying these symbols "1 NTSC & DVD Video" The ISBN # is 0-7832-2573-3.

Any idea why this disc should not work on my player. Thanks. Richard

Richard, Santa Cruz, CA
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post #16 of 75 Old 05-14-2006, 11:31 PM
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Excellent post uganda!
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post #17 of 75 Old 06-01-2006, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKent View Post


I don't know what they do, but DVDs look great on my 5060, even tho I play them on a 10-yr-old Toshiba DVD player. Not progressive, not upscaling. Does the Pio do the upscaling?

I was looking through this site trying to get an answer to my question - do I need a new progressive scan and/or upscaling DVD player for my Pioneer 5060 plasma? Based on your comment (and I'm pretty sure the 5060 does do its own upscaling) maybe I should stick to my old 525 Pioneer non-progressive, non-upscaling player. And before you say "why not see how it looks?", I have to tell you that the 5060 is still in its box . I know, I know but the home theatre room is not complete yet. So anyone care to comment on whether I need a new DVD player? Please reserve comments re the plasma in a box.
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post #18 of 75 Old 06-03-2006, 12:35 PM
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I would like to know about the above as well as it ties into my question. I have a recently purchased Samsung 61" DLP TV with 1080p natiive resolution and I need to purchase a new DVD player due to my current player dieing. So the answer to the above and below questions would help me make a more intelligent decision on how much money to spend.
There is a lot of emphasis put on D/A converters when listing the specs on DVD players. I was wondering if the D/A converter is still a factor on players that have HDMI outputs? Is the converter being bypassed as the unconverted digital content is sent to the TV or one should still look at the specs closely to make sure you are getting a higher bit higher MHz D/A converter even on those players?
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post #19 of 75 Old 06-03-2006, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YarDost View Post

I would like to know about the above as well as it ties into my question. I have a recently purchased Samsung 61" DLP TV with 1080p natiive resolution and I need to purchase a new DVD player due to my current player dieing. So the answer to the above and below questions would help me make a more intelligent decision on how much money to spend.
There is a lot of emphasis put on D/A converters when listing the specs on DVD players. I was wondering if the D/A converter is still a factor on players that have HDMI outputs? Is the converter being bypassed as the unconverted digital content is sent to the TV or one should still look at the specs closely to make sure you are getting a higher bit higher MHz D/A converter even on those players?

If the monitor is attached to the HDMI output from the DVD player, then any D/A converter in the DVD player is not used.

D/A converters are frankly inexpensive and relatively easy to make extremely well, but MHz and bit resolution are the wrong specs to look at, dynamic linearity, missing codes, glitch energy/clock leakage are probably responsible for more of the visual quality differences, and they aren't listed on the DVD player specs.

If the HDMI output is used, then specs never given are probably more important. Can the player detect and correct ECC errors and read the disc enough faster than required to retry small defects and smudges? (Or does it freeze for every microscopic particle of dust) How well does it really handle high data rate scenes? Does it create blockiness or drop frames? Do you like the way it handles subtitles? Does it responed well to the remote control, or does it think about it for a while first and then decide if it will do as you ask?

As far as reviews go - the magazines don't bite the hand that feeds them, the subscribers aren't their customers, the advertisers are. The greatest integrity that any of them aspire to is that they preview the reviews with the advertisers and allow them to ask that unfavorable reviews not be run. It is common that flaws are simply overlooked and that reviews only cover the positive points of the equipment.
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post #20 of 75 Old 06-03-2006, 10:19 PM
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Thanks for a detailed response uganda. So considering the above, the question would be:
Should I spend the extra money on buying a good upconversion DVD player or should I buy a decent player from Sony (e.g. DVPNS50P/S) and Panasonic for around $50 and hold off till the dust settles on HD DVD wars?
Any model recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
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post #21 of 75 Old 06-07-2006, 05:54 PM
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YarDost I'm so glad you asked your question and wish I had asked it a few weeks ago! Let me tell of my experience and you can go from there. I'm new to this whole game so don't know all of the technical ins-and-outs of HDTV but sometimes experience is the best factor!

I purchased my Samsung HLS5087W 50" DLP 1080p screen a few weeks ago; at the same time that I bought the display, I was steered into buying a Samsung HD850 upconverting DVD player for a $100 (a drop in the bucket compared to the total bill!). I am absolutely awed by the pq delivered by Dish satellite...amazing! But, I can't get over the feeling that my DVDs look no better when played on this HD850 via HDMI than they do on my ten-year-old non-progressive Sony player with RGB cables. I am torn between wondering if I got ripped off or if I missed something in the set-up (though I tried every option and combo of options in the menu). And, the more I read in this forum, the more I think that an upconverting player is not necessary with the new display.

I am actually going to return the HD850 now while I can get my money back and move my old player to join the display.
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post #22 of 75 Old 06-10-2006, 07:04 PM
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It's possible other HDMI players could look better on your display than the 850/950. May also want to check out what other users of your display have tried and had good results with in the Displays forum.

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post #23 of 75 Old 06-10-2006, 07:04 PM
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post #24 of 75 Old 06-11-2006, 06:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Besides ADU's post, I noticed a couple other posts from about a month ago answering some questions. Thank you! Sorry for missing them until now.

larry

Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. -- Thomas Alva Edison
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post #25 of 75 Old 07-02-2006, 01:17 PM
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Ok everyone, here is the very last link anyone will ever need if they have any DVD questions.

It's called: DVD Demystified (F.A.Q.) and they update it constantly. The current updated version is: April 6th, 2010.

http://www.dvddemystified.com/dvdfaq.html

You'll have to scroll down the list to find your particular question, but then just click on it and it will take you right where you have to go.

This is really the best thing I have seen online to answer DVD questions and something everyone should have bookmarked.

Never Underestimate The Power Of Forums.
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post #26 of 75 Old 08-17-2006, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polychromeuganda View Post

In the beginning the FFT begat the DCT which begat JPEG, which begat MPEG the 1st which begat MPEG the 2nd, which begat MPEG the 4th, which begat Ray, the Blue... And in all of these the DCT was computed within an 8 x 8 box, these being the third power of two, for the powers of 2 are sacred unto the hardware and also the most fertile radix of the FFT and all its descendents for all generations. These 8x8 boxes are the veseels of the spectral powers that compress the frothy ergodic image bits into a solid block, packed and full of bit-entropy. So great is the power of these blocks that they are called the MACRO-BLOCKS. Whenever the foolish attempt to starve their bits or err when serving them, their wroth cannot be concealed and their form shows itself blotting out all things - yea crushing dissenting detail within their bound. Woe be to them who starve them or serve their bits in error, for they shall see only the block.

Forgive my OT-ness, but you, sir, officially rock. Thank you for brightening my morning with this delightful fusion of humor and hard-core geekiness.

PS- I love the very "Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch"-esque style. Now, so blessed with the knowledge of the Great Macro-Blocks, would that we might feast with much rejoicing on the fruit bats and breakfast cereals!
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post #27 of 75 Old 01-11-2007, 10:25 AM
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I have what is probably a pretty dumb question, but here goes anyway. I read in a lot of threads that there is a copyright infringement that prevents upconverting over component and HDMI. So how is it that upconverting players are exempt from this?

Thanks,
Steve
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post #28 of 75 Old 01-11-2007, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve68 View Post

I have what is probably a pretty dumb question, but here goes anyway. I read in a lot of threads that there is a copyright infringement that prevents upconverting over component and HDMI. So how is it that upconverting players are exempt from this?

Thanks,
Steve

The restriction is only on component, not HDMI. To get permission to use certain patents, the manufacturers agree not to support upscaling over component. Component signals are too easy to copy, as opposed to HDMI where the encryption has not yet been broken.

This is a stupid restriction. SD-DVDs can be copied perfectly already; there is nothing particulary precious about the upscaled images.

-Bill
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post #29 of 75 Old 01-11-2007, 10:49 AM
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Thanks for the quick response.

Steve
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post #30 of 75 Old 01-26-2007, 01:47 AM
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I still have Black Bars on some of my DVD's. I know some are suppose to be there when there 2.35:1 but some times they are there when there not suposed to be.
The problems:
The Three Musketeers 2.35:1 has the black bars the size of letterbox like if you made a 4:3 letterbox movie (like on the Sci-Fi Channel every once in a while) to 16:9. I had to set my TV to Expand to make the picture look right but every once and a while you could see aliasing this way.
Chronicles of Riddick: Dark Fury and Van Helsing: London Assignment are both 16:9 widescreen but they have black bars

Those are the only ones that I know don't work correctly. I have watched close to 30 DVD's in the past month and a half they are all rented from Blockbuster and are all the Widescreen Editions. The Three Musketeers is the last one I watched but I watched many movies between the the other two.
All the settings on the DVD player are correct, Proggressive through component cables to Mitsubishi WD-52525 DLP, DVD player is Samsung DVD/VCR combo DVD-V4600.
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