Sony DVP-NS75H - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 2201 Old 04-17-2006, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artimp View Post

Claus can't I just run HDMI from Sony 75 to my pioneer 74 receiver and the 74 to the panny via HDMI--- HDMI straight thru???WHy do I need optical cable connection?

If you're using a HDMI-compatible receiver, you don't.

You connect one HDMI cable from the DVD player to the receiver, and another from the receiver to the TV. (Then you'll want to turn off the TV's speakers or set its volume to zero.)

That's it - you don't need optical or coaxial or anything else.

"I bought a new camera. It's very advanced. You don't even need it."

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post #632 of 2201 Old 04-17-2006, 11:19 PM
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What is the best HDMI compatible reciever on the market?
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post #633 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

wizdell -- It sounds like you might have had a defective NS70. The NS75H is a better player, but if your TV doesn't have the HDMI sound turned on, then you won't get any sound either (unless you also have a digital or analog sound cable attatched and activated). Your TV might mave a problem too, if it auto selects sound, and it's priorities aren't set correctly (or it's HDMI connection is defective).

walstadm -- See Post # 618, above (by Itsdon). Some PE7700's had bad HDMI inputs, or it could be a defective NS75H. Some DVDs aren't very good either. You also have to calibrate the PE7700 with the DVD player and a calibration DVD like AVIA, Sound & Vision, or DVE. Typical HDTV shows have a high level of color saturation too (which will make DVDs look dull in comparison). If that's the case, the S52 won't look any better.

I haven't fired mine up yet. However, the upconverted DVD output will never look as good as a good HDTV signal, since the original source is only 720 x 480 on the DVD (a true HDTV signal will be either 1280 x 720p or 1920 x 1080i). If you're expecting HDTV quality from a non-HDTV source, you will always be disappointed.

Well, I'm picking up a DVI-to-HDMI adapter today for my Comcast box so I can get a true test of the HDMI cable/port. If the picture turns out lousy, I'll pick up another HDMI cable and see if that will solve the problem. I will also connect my PC (with a DVI output on the video card) to HDMI and test out the DVD picture. I'm also picking up a Samsung HD860, and the new Toshiba HD-DVD player and will test those out in comparison to the NS75H (won't return it yet). I'll post all my findings.
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post #634 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 07:18 AM
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I am not having any video problems with my panny 42px50u....as posted by someone with the 50 inch set..same model..all looks outstanding via both components and hdmi.....just the obvious difference in the slightly smaller picture via the hdmi in 2:35 movies.......no upconversion player will ever give the quality of true HDTV....but this player via whichever out puts you use is outstanding..tried a few more movies..Battle Star Gallactica Season 1....which looked fantastic..and Ice Age which was jaw dropping to say the least...next big test will be Sin City...this is one of my favorite test movies which shows just how good the black levels are on your tv...it sold me on buying the panny plasma.....it made swiss cheese out of the poor Samsung 42hpr52.....don't buy one of those even if you see these great close out sales..it is the pits of plasma tv's...as far as the guy using a front projector..I have the infocus 4805....I have not set it up to it to try it out..but via the hdmi is a moot point since it disables most of the picture adjusting menus as well as the faroudja dcdi chip in the projector.. I have the samsung upconversion which also has a faroudja dcdi chip in it ...but when connecting through the dvdi port....you have very limited adjustments enabled menu to fix picture quality ...so it works best in interlaced mode..which then allows setting video quality via the projector's entire menu....however this dvdplayer has a lot of setup menus....so I would use the components to the projector and reset the user menu's on dvd to get the best picture....
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post #635 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 07:26 AM
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So Gene9p, you do notice the slightly smaller picture due to the 'slight' increase bar size on 2.35 movies? I have the same Panny plasma as you and I also tried playing Madagascar (which previously filled up the entire screen over component (via my older JVC player)) and with this player I have a slight 1/3" black bar on the top but nowhere else? Have you had any issues like this?
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post #636 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 09:56 AM
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I am about to buy an upscaling DVD player and I am trying to decide between this and the Oppo. From what I have seen here, the pq isn't too far off and, at the very least, does not have the MB problem. Plus, it's a good bit cheaper and available locally.

However, that said, I have an H77 that was calibrated and upgraded by a forum member (Tom) and an Oppo was used to calibrate the DVI input.

I don't how much of the calibration on that input would be 'wasted' or different if I used the Sony instead of the Oppo or how the calibrated H77 deals with MB.

Anyone have any suggestions on my particular situation ? Feel free to use PM or forum, as appropriate. Thanks in advance !
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post #637 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCH View Post

The NS70H is still on the FutureShop website.

The NS75H is on SonyStyle.ca website now.
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post #638 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kel View Post

I am about to buy an upscaling DVD player and I am trying to decide between this and the Oppo. From what I have seen here, the pq isn't too far off and, at the very least, does not have the MB problem. Plus, it's a good bit cheaper and available locally.

However, that said, I have an H77 that was calibrated and upgraded by a forum member (Tom) and an Oppo was used to calibrate the DVI input.

I don't how much of the calibration on that input would be 'wasted' or different if I used the Sony instead of the Oppo or how the calibrated H77 deals with MB.

Anyone have any suggestions on my particular situation ? Feel free to use PM or forum, as appropriate. Thanks in advance !

Calibrating My Samsung with the DVPNS75H was fairly easy. I just picked Cinema 2 on the DVD player, and ran the THX optimizer using Star Wars ANH and lowered the brightness untill I could bairly see the seventh bar on top of the THX logo. I didn't mess with the colors since they all seemed to be perfect on standard.
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post #639 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 12:38 PM
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This seems like a silly question, but I thought I'd ask. I've got a 85H connected to my 50A10 via component connections, and everything is fine. I was just wondering if the blue Sony screen should be in widescreen or not. I've never seen it in anything other than 4:3 mode. All of my media plays fine.
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post #640 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRoeber View Post

This seems like a silly question, but I thought I'd ask. I've got a 85H connected to my 50A10 via component connections, and everything is fine. I was just wondering if the blue Sony screen should be in widescreen or not. I've never seen it in anything other than 4:3 mode. All of my media plays fine.

At least for the 75:
It follows however you have the player set to handle 4:3 media - if you have the menu setting for 4x3 set to stretch - it will stretch the Sony Screen.
If you have it set to "pillarbox" (like me), then the Sony screen will have black bars on the left and right
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post #641 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

Grimdeath -- Have you tried anything other than the anim DVDs? Also, I'm confused by your "full speed" comment. If you hit "play" then you're running at normal speed. If you're talking about a fast forward speed, then you will never get a decent (= good) picture because the player doesn't have the time to decode the cadence properly.

I can hardly notice this problem when watching movies. What I meant was I can see the issue running at half speed, etc, also.
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post #642 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 06:43 PM
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Grimdeath -- Playing a DVD at anything but normal speed will not give you a perfect picture on any of the new DVD players, and is very unusual even on older players. What I don't understand is why you think they should?

kel -- Anytime you change a component in the video chain (DVD Player, Cable Box, Display, etc.) you will have to recalibrate. Each component will have a different effect on the picture being displayed. When you calibrate, you are calibrating the whole loop from the DVD to the picture.

------ Review Continued ------
I finally had a chance to run my NS75H, component connections, to my backup PJ (a Mits HC3 LCD, 960 x 540, 106" diagonal screen). I calibrated the setup with the GetGray calibration disc. My old player is the Panasonic DVD-RP91, which was "king of the hill" at the time I bought it, component connections are the best it has. I found that the Brightness and Contrast had to be changed considerably (-8 to +5 and +30 to -6, respectively), but the Color & Tint were right on (no change). All the enhancements were turned Off (Sharpness, DNR, MNR), and I got the best black levels (and correct white levels) using Cinema 1. Cinema 2 crushed blacks and expanded the white levels excessively (with my PJ, YMMV). I found that I had about a 2% overscan (not adjustable on the HC3), so if there is an alignment problem less than 2%, I wouldn't see it. I did find that the NS75H - HC3 combination did not respond correctly to the 4:3 flags on the GetGray caldisc (I suspect this is more of a HC3 problem, since it doesn't correctly respond to 4:3 formats from my D* STB receiver either - in the "Auto" AR mode, I have to manually select the aspect ratio). I then ran the introduction on the DVE DVD. The 16:9 pictures were excellent and, at least, as good as they were from my RP91 with the same cabling. The one fault that I did find was that the NS75H exhibited excessive EE (edge enhancement), the control was set to Off. Using the "1" or "2" settings didn't help (note: I forgot to try the Sharpness control on the HC3, but it may have been not accessable for the component input - I'll have to check again tonight). This EE was not really apparent during the following testing.

After calibration, I ran the HQV "torture test" DVD and it gave excellent results -- much better that the (AVS members) reported results for the Panasonic S97 (score = 75 to 80) & the Oppo 971H (score = 65 to 75). Those results were for the HDMI/DVI outputs of those players. I got a score of about 110 for my HS75H at 480p (102 @ 480i) over the component connections (the Panasonic XP50 was the closest at a score of 95 over component connections). That just blew me away; I was not expecting that it would be that much better than my old (highly rated) Panasonic RP91 (also component connected, HQV score = 55 to 60, IIRC). The only differences I found between 480i and 480p was that the Jaggies tests and the 3:2 Pull-Down Detection test were better using the 480p setting.

NOTE: For those of you not familiar with the HQV DVD, it's made by Silicon Optix and was designed so that even video equipment made with their Teranex processor chips have a hard time passing all of the tests. The perfect score is 130, so 110 is excellent for the NS75H, or any DVD player.

I followed these tests with two "made for TV" DVD videos (to appease my S.O.). These were recorded in a 720 x 480 format (1.5:1 - they were originally made for PAL viewing) and were correctly formatted on my PJ (set to 16:9 - Auto mode). One of these had many quite "dark" scenes - lots of night and dark room shots. It looked like I need to raise the Brightness (black level) a little. I may need to recalibrate (and look more at the Cinema 2 mode). Overall, however, these movies had excellent picture quality.

I also need to look at some of my "reference" movies to make a conclusion, but so far so good. It looks like it may be a "keeper", unless the HDMI output turns out to be a real dud.

- Claus {non-Santa model}
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post #643 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

Grimdeath -- Playing a DVD at anything but normal speed will not give you a perfect picture on any of the new DVD players, and is very unusual even on older players. What I don't understand is why you think they should?

Let me put it this way; whether I'm at "play" speed or lower, I still get the same artifacting in certain scenes; however, pause and step by step do not result in the artifacting.
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post #644 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

Grimdeath -- Playing a DVD at anything but normal speed will not give you a perfect picture on any of the new DVD players, and is very unusual even on older players. What I don't understand is why you think they should?

kel -- Anytime you change a component in the video chain (DVD Player, Cable Box, Display, etc.) you will have to recalibrate. Each component will have a different effect on the picture being displayed. When you calibrate, you are calibrating the whole loop from the DVD to the picture.

------ Review Continued ------
I finally had a chance to run my NS75H, component connections, to my backup PJ (a Mits HC3 LCD, 960 x 540, 106" diagonal screen). I calibrated the setup with the GetGray calibration disc. My old player is the Panasonic DVD-RP91, which was "king of the hill" at the time I bought it, component connections are the best it has. I found that the Brightness and Contrast had to be changed considerably (-8 to +5 and +30 to -6, respectively), but the Color & Tint were right on (no change). All the enhancements were turned Off (Sharpness, DNR, MNR), and I got the best black levels (and correct white levels) using Cinema 1. Cinema 2 crushed blacks and expanded the white levels excessively (with my PJ, YMMV). I found that I had about a 2% overscan (not adjustable on the HC3), so if there is an alignment problem less than 2%, I wouldn't see it. I did find that the NS75H - HC3 combination did not respond correctly to the 4:3 flags on the GetGray caldisc (I suspect this is more of a HC3 problem, since it doesn't correctly respond to 4:3 formats from my D* STB receiver either - in the "Auto" AR mode, I have to manually select the aspect ratio). I then ran the introduction on the DVE DVD. The 16:9 pictures were excellent and, at least, as good as they were from my RP91 with the same cabling. The one fault that I did find was that the NS75H exhibited excessive EE (edge enhancement), the control was set to Off. Using the "1" or "2" settings didn't help (note: I forgot to try the Sharpness control on the HC3, but it may have been not accessable for the component input - I'll have to check again tonight). This EE was not really apparent during the following testing.

After calibration, I ran the HQV "torture test" DVD and it gave excellent results -- much better that the (AVS members) reported results for the Panasonic S97 (score = 75 to 80) & the Oppo 971H (score = 65 to 75). Those results were for the HDMI/DVI outputs of those players. I got a score of about 110 for my HS75H at 480p (102 @ 480i) over the component connections (the Panasonic XP50 was the closest at a score of 95 over component connections). That just blew me away; I was not expecting that it would be that much better than my old (highly rated) Panasonic RP91 (also component connected, HQV score = 55 to 60, IIRC). The only differences I found between 480i and 480p was that the Jaggies tests and the 3:2 Pull-Down Detection test were better using the 480p setting.

NOTE: For those of you not familiar with the HQV DVD, it's made by Silicon Optix and was designed so that even video equipment made with their Teranex processor chips have a hard time passing all of the tests. The perfect score is 130, so 110 is excellent for the NS75H, or any DVD player.

I followed these tests with two "made for TV" DVD videos (to appease my S.O.). These were recorded in a 720 x 480 format (1.5:1 - they were originally made for PAL viewing) and were correctly formatted on my PJ (set to 16:9 - Auto mode). One of these had many quite "dark" scenes - lots of night and dark room shots. It looked like I need to raise the Brightness (black level) a little. I may need to recalibrate (and look more at the Cinema 2 mode). Overall, however, these movies had excellent picture quality.

I also need to look at some of my "reference" movies to make a conclusion, but so far so good. It looks like it may be a "keeper", unless the HDMI output turns out to be a real dud.

Great review! I would look more into Cinema 2 though. I found that both my blacks and whites were better after calibration than I could achieve with Cinema 1. Color and tint were unaffected (which seems odd) between the two but overall I've stuck with Cimena 2 and have been very pleased. As for HDMI, I ran component cables and my HDMI>DVI simultaneously to my projector and switched between the two hundreds of times during several movies and came to some interesting conclusions. 480P (component) had a slightly brighter overall picture with colors being just a tad more vibrant but the picture as a whole seemed ever so slightly 'cloudy', just not sharp. Switching back to HDMI brought the picture back to it's razor sharp self and with the Cinema 2 gamma enhancements turned on I was able to calibrate correctly.

I know I'm only getting RGB output because of the HDMI>DVI conversion so perhaps those folks running straight HDMI>HDMI won't need the Cinema 2 boost. It would be interesting to hear from folks who have done this through to their projector.

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post #645 of 2201 Old 04-18-2006, 08:13 PM
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Just got the NC85H changer and ran a bunch of dvds through it. Also have the prior NC80V (component) model. NC85 provides a nicer, clearer, sharper picture with less artifacts and noise (especially mosquito noise or haloing around objects). Out of box, picture is a little dark and lacking in shadow detail but not as bad as NC80 which needed brightness increased a few clicks. Im trying to decide between Cinema 1 and 2. Both look good and improve shadow detail. Would be nice if the NC85 had a Gamma setting like Panny S97.

NC85 is just as slow to load as NC80 was. NC85 remote lost the surround, shuffle and repeat buttons over NC80. NC80 could remember 40 discs but NC85 has reduced this to only 6 which is inadequate for a 5-DVD changer!

Also compared NC85 with Panny S97 and as expected the NC85 does not exhibit MBe. NC85 stacks up favorably with the PQ of the S97 (MBe aside).

Compared with S97 and NC80, NC85 shows no shifting or squeezing of picture over HDMI.

I experienced a little lip synch but this seems to only occur after going in the Display menus to fiddle with picture, audio, etc settings and is usually correctable by pressing stop then play.

I found that setting BNR (block noise reduction) setting ON produced artifacts like the MBe for the Panny S97. This is the opposite to what I would have expected. So this setting stays off. I saw no benefit to using MNR (mosquito noise reduction) or Sharpness so they'll probably stay off also. Perhaps these settings are really only applicable when using 480i/480p over component rather than 720p/1080i over HDMI.
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post #646 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 12:10 AM
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Can someone tell me what the factory setting for av sync (ohms) is? It's the last option below picture mode (cinema 1), sharpness, and BNR and MNR filters. I accidently changed it and have it at 2 ohms now.

The player looks much better now that I've messed around with it more. The grain is still there, but it doesn't bother me nearly as much as it was before. Looks like a keeper for me.
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post #647 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaarlieee View Post

Can someone tell me what the factory setting for av sync (ohms) is? It's the last option below picture mode (cinema 1), sharpness, and BNR and MNR filters. I accidently changed it and have it at 2 ohms now.

The player looks much better now that I've messed around with it more. The grain is still there, but it doesn't bother me nearly as much as it was before. Looks like a keeper for me.

This is in ms (milliseconds)? Default is zero. You typically won't notice any effect until you are up in the 25-50ms range or higher, assuming you are even experiencing lip synch delays with DVDs and your display.
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post #648 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by disgruntled1 View Post

This is in ms (milliseconds)? Default is zero. You typically won't notice any effect until you are up in the 25-50ms range or higher, assuming you are even experiencing lip synch delays with DVDs and your display.

You're looking at the wrong setting.
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post #649 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 05:51 AM
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So here's my update. I first hooked up my Comcast HD box via HDMI with the HDMI cable that comes with the Toshiba HD-DVD to verify my HDMI port on the PE7700 and the Monoprice HDMI cable were good. I next hooked up the Samsung DVD-HD860 via HDMI and put in the DVD I've been using for my testing, SW Ep. III, and it looked just slightly worse than the Sony, but not much different. Then something clicked in my head to run through the THX optimizer since I don't have Avia or DVE yet, and I was amazed by the difference. The color was better, the picture was crisper, and I was pleased. Then I pulled the Sony back out of the box, again connected it via HDMI, reran thru the THX optimizer (only a slight increase in tint was made), started the movie and saw a much better picture on the Sony. I'm sure I was just expecting too much from an upconversion, but I was happy and decided that the Samsung was definitely going back. Then I pulled out the Toshiba HD-DVD player. It has a very sleek remote, with and a nice feature where you can change from 480i thru 1080i at just a push of the button, and don't have to stop the movie to do so. 480 thru the HDMI filled the entire screen even on Real mode of the PE7700. Again, no changes were needed with the THX optimizer. I noticed a slight more detail with the upconverted image with the Toshiba, but not enough to justify $370. So I will be keeping the Sony DVP-NS75H, and once I get Avia/DVE to run through, I will be a happy viewer. And I will post pics I took showing the Sony player vs. the Toshiba HD-DVD tonight.
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post #650 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 05:59 AM
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chaarlieee -- Sorry, you did say AV Sync, which is measured in milliseconds, not Ohms. The manual shows what looks like 0ms, but it's actually zero milliseconds (they didn't put a space between the number "0" and the abbreviation "ms"). Resistance is measured in Ohms (named after Mr. Ohm, who defined it). You only adjust this if there is a delay between the sound (people speaking) and the picture (othewise known as Lip Sync). This delay is caused by the time necessary to process the video (de-interlacing and scaling) being greater than that needed to decode the sound. disgruntled1 is correct.

Itsdon -- Thanks. I'm going to have to try Cinema 2 and do some more playing around with the calibration. I also need to find out what effects the MBR and MNR have on the signal (I have a pretty good idea, for MBR, from disgruntled1's experience). I need to see if I can get rid of the EE (tonight I found that my PJs sharpness control doesn't apply for its component input).

If the central part (20% to 80% of the gray scale) is basically unchanged, then there probably won't be much of an effect on the Color & Tint settings when switching betwen Cinema 1 & 2.

EDIT: One thing I didn't mention is that I found the remote is very sensitive to button presses. I kept getting double entries because I found I was pressing the buttons too hard.

- Claus {non-Santa model}
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post #651 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamwod View Post

The NS75H is on SonyStyle.ca website now.


Finally!! Good to hear, now hopefully BestBuy or Futureshop (I know same thing), will get some stock before 2007!!

MSRP of $199 really sucks IMO. With our dollar the way it is now, it should be more like $149 - 159.

I wonder when they will put up the NC85H, probably never.... Since us poor Canadian's can't handle more then 1 or 2 choices from any vendor...


Thanks for the Update adamwod.
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post #652 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 09:19 AM
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Sony manual says to use Cinema 1 or Cinema 2 for movies, so I'd like to hear more testing between the two as well. I'm currently using HDMI-DVI.
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post #653 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 10:01 AM
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ok I can't see the dvd player screen right now but in the audio area there is a function that specifies 48hz or 96 hz-- I messed with it and now don't know what is correct??? help? :-)
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post #654 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

chaarlieee -- Sorry, you did say AV Sync, which is measured in milliseconds, not Ohms. The manual shows what looks like 0ms, but it's actually zero milliseconds (they didn't put a space between the number "0" and the abbreviation "ms"). Resistance is measured in Ohms (named after Mr. Ohm, who defined it). You only adjust this if there is a delay between the sound (people speaking) and the picture (othewise known as Lip Sync). This delay is caused by the time necessary to process the video (de-interlacing and scaling) being greater than that needed to decode the sound. disgruntled1 is correct.

Itsdon -- Thanks. I'm going to have to try Cinema 2 and do some more playing around with the calibration. I also need to find out what effects the MBR and MNR have on the signal (I have a pretty good idea, for MBR, from disgruntled1's experience). I need to see if I can get rid of the EE (tonight I found that my PJs sharpness control doesn't apply for its component input).

If the central part (20% to 80% of the gray scale) is basically unchanged, then there probably won't be much of an effect on the Color & Tint settings when switching betwen Cinema 1 & 2.

EDIT: One thing I didn't mention is that I found the remote is very sensitive to button presses. I kept getting double entries because I found I was pressing the buttons too hard.

Oh.. I have really bad eyes. I know what ohms are and I knew all along what the av sync function did. I just saw what I thought was "Ohms" and I got confused. If I had known all along it was instead "0 ms" I would have never asked such a stupid question.

Anyway, I have no issues with the sound and video not being in sync, so I will set it back to zero. It didn't even look off when I had it set at 2 ms.

Sorry for that disgruntled1!
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post #655 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

: One thing I didn't mention is that I found the remote is very sensitive to button presses. I kept getting double entries because I found I was pressing the buttons too hard.

This only seems to be a problem for the up/down/left/right "cursor" buttons. I found this to be very bad in the prior NC80 and other earlier models. Thankfully its much better (but not perfect) in the NC85 so they obviously fixed it somewhat.
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post #656 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by artimp View Post

ok I can't see the dvd player screen right now but in the audio area there is a function that specifies 48hz or 96 hz-- I messed with it and now don't know what is correct??? help? :-)

No offense but all of the default settings are listed in the Settings and Adjustments chapter toward the back of the manual.
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post #657 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by walstadm View Post

So here's my update. I first hooked up my Comcast HD box via HDMI with the HDMI cable that comes with the Toshiba HD-DVD to verify my HDMI port on the PE7700 and the Monoprice HDMI cable were good. I next hooked up the Samsung DVD-HD860 via HDMI and put in the DVD I've been using for my testing, SW Ep. III, and it looked just slightly worse than the Sony, but not much different. Then something clicked in my head to run through the THX optimizer since I don't have Avia or DVE yet, and I was amazed by the difference. The color was better, the picture was crisper, and I was pleased. Then I pulled the Sony back out of the box, again connected it via HDMI, reran thru the THX optimizer (only a slight increase in tint was made), started the movie and saw a much better picture on the Sony. I'm sure I was just expecting too much from an upconversion, but I was happy and decided that the Samsung was definitely going back. Then I pulled out the Toshiba HD-DVD player. It has a very sleek remote, with and a nice feature where you can change from 480i thru 1080i at just a push of the button, and don't have to stop the movie to do so. 480 thru the HDMI filled the entire screen even on Real mode of the PE7700. Again, no changes were needed with the THX optimizer. I noticed a slight more detail with the upconverted image with the Toshiba, but not enough to justify $370. So I will be keeping the Sony DVP-NS75H, and once I get Avia/DVE to run through, I will be a happy viewer. And I will post pics I took showing the Sony player vs. the Toshiba HD-DVD tonight.

My best friend bought the Toshiba, and last night I was able to compare my DVPNS75H to his using the same movie of Phantom of the Opera SD DVD. I have to concur that the difference if any is so slight that it isn't worth it to have an HDDVD untill the prices drop down to sub $150. I use Star Wars a New Hope's THX optimizer for my TV while only using Cinema 2 on the DVD player. All I had to do was lower the brightness a little to get the shadows perfect.


CT_Wiebe,

Thank you for your review of the DVPNS75H. it is amazing that it got the scores it got compared to $1,000 dollar DVD players. I look foreward to reading more of your posts.
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post #658 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 12:24 PM
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Ok best buy has a sony dvd player with the model number DVP-NS750H(but doesnt have a sony player with model number dvp-ns75H. Is the dvp-ns750h the same player as the dvp-ns75H???????
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post #659 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 12:34 PM
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how big does the 2x zoom display on the screen when you use the zoom function for this sony dvp-ns75H??
And cant i just set my new samsung 46" lcd hdtv to zoom instead of the player?


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Depends on your display type. If your display is prone to issue with macro blocking (such as a plasma), the Sony may be a better fit (now that shift is fixed).

If i have a lcd, should i go with the panasonic 97 because lcd's dont have macroblock????
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post #660 of 2201 Old 04-19-2006, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mikej3131 View Post

how big does the 2x zoom display on the screen when you use the zoom function for this sony dvp-ns75H??
And cant i just set my new samsung 46" lcd hdtv to zoom instead of the player?



If i have a lcd, should i go with the panasonic 97 because lcd's dont have macroblock????

The zoom icon that displays isn't huge, but it is very noticeable.

If your player has a Zoom mode for 1080i and 720p you could just use that for DVDs where you need that. Otherwise, just use 480p output and the Zoom mode should be available on your TV with that signal.
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