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post #1501 of 1530 Old 10-14-2014, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post
Chrome on Win8 is now running the HTML5 player instead of Silverlight (unless of course you go to Playback settings for your profile and unclick "Prefer HTML5 player instead of Silverlight"). Firefox is still running Silverlight.
I'm just curious how you enable HTML5 in Chrome?

I have adjusted my playback settings on my Netlix account.

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post #1502 of 1530 Old 10-14-2014, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jhughy2010 View Post
I'm just curious how you enable HTML5 in Chrome?

I have adjusted my playback settings on my Netlix account.

Then you're probably getting the HTML5 player. If you bring up the debug overlay (w/o blowing it up fullscreen, left-click the video to give it keyboard focus, CTRL-SHIFT-ALT-D), there should be a line at the top which reads:

Code:
UserAgent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; Win64; x64) AppleWebKit/537.36 (KHTML, like Gecko) Chrome/37.0.2062.124 Safari/537.36
The Silverlight player will say:

Code:
Source: http://www.netflix.com/player/silverlight/Player-SL5-3.2256.171.1.xap?v-1
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post #1503 of 1530 Old 10-14-2014, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post
Then you're probably getting the HTML5 player. If you bring up the debug overlay (w/o blowing it up fullscreen, left-click the video to give it keyboard focus, CTRL-SHIFT-ALT-D), there should be a line at the top which reads:

Code:
UserAgent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; Win64; x64) AppleWebKit/537.36 (KHTML, like Gecko) Chrome/37.0.2062.124 Safari/537.36
The Silverlight player will say:

Code:
Source: http://www.netflix.com/player/silverlight/Player-SL5-3.2256.171.1.xap?v-1
Yep it looks like I am using HTML5... anyhow, the buffer rate was rather low (never neared 4800Kbps).

I also noticed the frame rate was near 24... wish more devices would adjust to 24 frames. I'm guessing that Roku does not adjust the TV to 24 frames?

Living room theater set-up:  
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HTPC: z97 mobo, 16GB mem, i5-4440, SSD+HD, LG BD drive, Win 8.1 pro w/WMC + MB3.
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post #1504 of 1530 Old 10-14-2014, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhughy2010 View Post
Yep it looks like I am using HTML5... anyhow, the buffer rate was rather low (never neared 4800Kbps).

I also noticed the frame rate was near 24... wish more devices would adjust to 24 frames. I'm guessing that Roku does not adjust the TV to 24 frames?
First, as was discussed earlier in this thread you can't get 1080p out of the HTML5 player running in Chrome for some reason; you can get it from the HTML5 player running in IE11 on Win8 (not Win7). Second, you're probably not getting 24 fps out of your PC graphics card; that debug screen is just telling you what rate the source is encoded at. Of my many Netflix-capable devices only 4 of them can output streaming services at 24p: TiVo Roamio, TiVo Premiere (both new common Netflix UI), Panasonic DMP-BDT220 BDP and WD TV Live (both old common Netflix UI). My TV Live is 3rd gen, subtitled "Streaming"; the newest version does not have a Netflix app . I don't know why more devices can't output streaming video at the content's native 24p, particularly BDPs, which are pretty much all capable of outputting BD video at 24p.
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post #1505 of 1530 Old 10-15-2014, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post
First, as was discussed earlier in this thread you can't get 1080p out of the HTML5 player running in Chrome for some reason; you can get it from the HTML5 player running in IE11 on Win8 (not Win7). Second, you're probably not getting 24 fps out of your PC graphics card; that debug screen is just telling you what rate the source is encoded at. Of my many Netflix-capable devices only 4 of them can output streaming services at 24p: TiVo Roamio, TiVo Premiere (both new common Netflix UI), Panasonic DMP-BDT220 BDP and WD TV Live (both old common Netflix UI). My TV Live is 3rd gen, subtitled "Streaming"; the newest version does not have a Netflix app . I don't know why more devices can't output streaming video at the content's native 24p, particularly BDPs, which are pretty much all capable of outputting BD video at 24p.
Ok thanks for the info... I remember I used to have a Samsung BD player that would adjust the screen to 24p (I cannot remember the model number... sold it to a friend when I built my HTPC).

Does your WD live have Amazon instant video? Does it have the ability to see the netflix streaming manager to ensure you are actually streaming a bitrate suitable for 1080p?

I am considering a Roku 3 but would like the capability to access netflix streaming manager to see I'm getting better than 3,000Kbps.

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post #1506 of 1530 Old 10-15-2014, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhughy2010 View Post
Does your WD live have Amazon instant video? Does it have the ability to see the netflix streaming manager to ensure you are actually streaming a bitrate suitable for 1080p?

I am considering a Roku 3 but would like the capability to access netflix streaming manager to see I'm getting better than 3,000Kbps.

No Amazon Instant Video app on TV Live Streaming; its biggest weakness, IMO. None of the embedded device apps have a "Stream Manager" as such (you can't force it to stream at a particular rate) but some, including TV Live, have the Netflix stream info display which will tell you what resolution you're streaming, though not the bit rate. It used to tell you the bit rate but they changed it. It's undocumented debug code so we can't complain about it--phone CSRs won't acknowledge that it exists. There are two 720p, two 1080p and 4 2160p encodes at different bit rates, so that information would definitely be handy; hopefully they add it back. If I were a developer I'd find that display a lot more useful with bit rate.

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post #1507 of 1530 Old 10-15-2014, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post
No Amazon Instant Video app on TV Live Streaming; its biggest weakness, IMO. None of the embedded device apps have a "Stream Manager" as such (you can't force it to stream at a particular rate) but some, including TV Live, have the Netflix stream info display which will tell you what resolution you're streaming, though not the bit rate. It used to tell you the bit rate but they changed it. It's undocumented debug code so we can't complain about it--phone CSRs won't acknowledge that it exists. There are two 720p, two 1080p and 4 2160p encodes at different bit rates, so that information would definitely be handy; hopefully they add it back. If I were a developer I'd find that display a lot more useful with bit rate.
What are the two different 1080p bitrates?

That sucks about WD Live. I'm still looking... seeing that Roku 3 is on sale looks tempting, however, I'd just prefer Win8.1 app to do 1080p.

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Content sources: OTA Winegard HD7698P, Amazon Fire TV Stick, Netflix etc.
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post #1508 of 1530 Old 10-15-2014, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhughy2010 View Post

That sucks about WD Live. I'm still looking... seeing that Roku 3 is on sale looks tempting, however, I'd just prefer Win8.1 app to do 1080p.
Fire TV (not surprisingly) work great on Amazon Instant with very good 1080P encodes. Its Netflix app is functional and will get 1080P (5800 kbps encodes) with no problems but is an older version of the Netflix app.

I still haven't found one player that will do everything I want. For Netflix I use the Apple TV which looks great and always starts at 1080P without any ramp up through the lower resolutions.
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post #1509 of 1530 Old 10-16-2014, 12:47 AM
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Fire TV (not surprisingly) work great on Amazon Instant with very good 1080P encodes. Its Netflix app is functional and will get 1080P (5800 kbps encodes) with no problems but is an older version of the Netflix app.

It will not, however, output video at 24Hz, which TV Live Streaming will.

I read that Google is coming out with a $99 Nexus Player streaming STB, obviously designed to compete with Fire TV. EDIT: I see that Google has a Nexus Player page up. Looks like also no Amazon (I wonder if Amazon will license any new streaming STB to have an Amazon Instant Video app); no mention of 24p output, though I somehow doubt it.

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post #1510 of 1530 Old 10-16-2014, 08:20 AM
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So, today the netflix app on the fireTV updated while I was watching a series. It just force closed and updated which was so weird. I thought we are finally gonna see the new UI, but it was an update from 1.0.1 to 1.0.2, which was just a bugfix release according to the release notes. Bummer.

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I believe there is not a best possible streaming device. Now that I have direct peering and triple the speeds I don't have issues on any devices even the Fire TV old Netflix app plays fine. I just think that Netflix under congestion handles there adaptive streaming the worst out of all the services and no device performs better than others. Really what matters is having a fast enough speed and little to no congestion and then Netflix performs great on any device. My only regret was that I wasted my money on many Netflix streamers now knowing that direct peering is the key to great Netflix streaming.

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post #1512 of 1530 Old 10-16-2014, 10:37 AM
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I've never heard of direct peering (haven't followed this thread in its entirety) can someone explain?
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post #1513 of 1530 Old 10-16-2014, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post
It will not, however, output video at 24Hz, which TV Live Streaming will.
I know. If you look back to when I was replacing my Roku 2 I was looking for a player that supports Netflix, Amazon Instant, HuLu+, YCbCr output and 24P. It didn't (and doesn't) exist.

I ended up with the Apple TV (no Amazon Instant or 24P) and now Fire TV (for Amazon Instant but still no 24P).

So yes I have 2 players and still no 24P.....
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Originally Posted by jhughy2010 View Post
I've never heard of direct peering (haven't followed this thread in its entirety) can someone explain?
Simply put:
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Peering is a connectivity method where two networks establish a direct IP connection between their networks, bypassing any third-party networks or middlemen. The most popular form of peering is known as “settlement-free peering”, where two networks agree to exchange traffic with one another directly without any form of compensation. Another form is “settlement-based peering” or “paid peering”, where two networks agree to exchange traffic directly, and compensation is involved.
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post #1515 of 1530 Old 10-16-2014, 12:45 PM
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I've never heard of direct peering (haven't followed this thread in its entirety) can someone explain?
Think of it as Netflix being a direct customer with the ISPs to which it has "direct peering" agreements.

Netflix tried using "OpenConnect", which is having a Netflix server(s) ("OpenConnect Appliance(s)") on the premises of the ISP and requests for streams go to that server(s). Where geography makes servers in different locations advantageous by not overloading that ISP's backbone, there may be servers in multiple locations. This seems more popular in Europe than in the United States, though some ISPs in the United States have gone this route.

In the United States, several ISPs (e.g., Comcast, Time Warner Cable, Verizon) have a "direct connect" agreement with Netflix, meaning that Netflix servers on Netflix premises are connected to the ISP like a regular business customer, potentially at multiple locations. So, in my case, when I want to stream a Netflix movie, the data flow is from a Netflix server to Comcast (since Netflix is now a Comcast customer and that Netflix server is connected to Comcast) and then to my home (since I am a Comcast customer renting one of their modems) and to my TV. And, likewise, a TWC subscriber would get streaming data from a Netflix server directly connected to the TWC network (since Netflix is also a TWC customer).

Without either "OpenConnect" (Netflix server at that ISP's location) or "Direct Connect" (the Netflix server wired to the ISP), a third party interconnect is often involved between the party where streaming content is hosted and the ISP of the end customer. Many of the slowdowns were caused by larger ISPs declining to improve capacity to the intermediate party at the interconnect points because several intermediate parties declined to pay more for the amount of data they are sending to the end user's ISP that exceeds the amount of data going the other way. (Most mutual peering agreements assume roughly same amount of data going both ways at the exchange points, whereas services like Netflix and YouTube tend to drive the majority of the data to the end user.) Now some third parties do pay the ISPs when they send more data to the ISP than they receive, but in turn those third parties charge more to their customers. Rather than pay more to the third parties that would then pay the ISPs more, Netflix went the way of directly negotiating a direct connect to those ISPs and thus become customers of those ISPs.
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post #1516 of 1530 Old 10-16-2014, 01:28 PM
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I know. If you look back to when I was replacing my Roku 2 I was looking for a player that supports Netflix, Amazon Instant, HuLu+, YCbCr output and 24P. It didn't (and doesn't) exist.

Sure it does--my Panasonic DMP-BDT220 qualifies. Annoyingly you have to enable 24p in the player settings and turn it on for streaming every time you start a streaming app (enabling it globally gets you 24p for BD video without have to do something every time). Looking at it right now it's set to output YCbCr 4:4:4.

What's changed in it recently is that its Amazon app had been updated, to a design similar to the PS3's (this, only no cover art in the 4 small panes next to the big one). Inasmuch as my new television's Amazon app has the same UI, they seem to be making it the standard (though Fire TV's app is different). The big deal about this change is that it now support Dolby 5.1 sound and the AIV Watchlist. It does not support their 1080p video, but very few devices do as yet (my new TV is one of them).

BDT220 is a 2012 device; I presume that more recent models have all the same capabilities, but I could be wrong. Something else I always liked about the model is that it has a 1.5X FF with pitch-correct audio.
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post #1517 of 1530 Old 10-16-2014, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post
Sure it does--my Panasonic DMP-BDT220 qualifies. Annoyingly you have to enable 24p in the player settings and turn it on for streaming every time you start a streaming app (enabling it globally gets you 24p for BD video without have to do something every time). Looking at it right now it's set to output YCbCr 4:4:4.

What's changed in it recently is that its Amazon app had been updated, to a design similar to the PS3's (this, only no cover art in the 4 small panes next to the big one). Inasmuch as my new television's Amazon app has the same UI, they seem to be making it the standard (though Fire TV's app is different). The big deal about this change is that it now support Dolby 5.1 sound and the AIV Watchlist. It does not support their 1080p video, but very few devices do as yet (my new TV is one of them).

BDT220 is a 2012 device; I presume that more recent models have all the same capabilities, but I could be wrong. Something else I always liked about the model is that it has a 1.5X FF with pitch-correct audio.
I manually changed my Intel's GPU graphics properties (under display properties) to 1920x1080 - 24p and it adjusted the TV to 24hz. It was pretty choppy for the morning news in Windows Media Center but for the Netflix Win8.1 app I didn't notice any choppiness whatsoever. It was rather smooth. I'm assuming the show "Parenthood" was filmed at 24p (the debug screen didn't show refresh rate) and it was pretty smooth watching an episode.

I did switch it back to 60p (which after further review the graphics driver sets it to 59p when you exit properties and go back into properties) and was actually unable to tell a difference when watching "Parenthood" in Netflix. The morning news in Windows Media Center was obviously less choppy at 60p (I'm assuming the news is filmed at 30hz).

Living room theater set-up:  
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1124-K.
Speakers/Sub: (4) NHT Classic Two and an NHT TwoC center + PSA-XV15 subwoofer.
HTPC: z97 mobo, 16GB mem, i5-4440, SSD+HD, LG BD drive, Win 8.1 pro w/WMC + MB3.
Content sources: OTA Winegard HD7698P, Amazon Fire TV Stick, Netflix etc.
HDTV: Sharp LC-60SQ15U (ehhh).
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post #1518 of 1530 Old 10-16-2014, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltscott View Post
Sure it does--my Panasonic DMP-BDT220 qualifies. Annoyingly you have to enable 24p in the player settings and turn it on for streaming every time you start a streaming app (enabling it globally gets you 24p for BD video without have to do something every time). Looking at it right now it's set to output YCbCr 4:4:4.

What's changed in it recently is that its Amazon app had been updated, to a design similar to the PS3's (this, only no cover art in the 4 small panes next to the big one). Inasmuch as my new television's Amazon app has the same UI, they seem to be making it the standard (though Fire TV's app is different). The big deal about this change is that it now support Dolby 5.1 sound and the AIV Watchlist. It does not support their 1080p video, but very few devices do as yet (my new TV is one of them).

BDT220 is a 2012 device; I presume that more recent models have all the same capabilities, but I could be wrong. Something else I always liked about the model is that it has a 1.5X FF with pitch-correct audio.
OK I should have said in a stand alone player. I did consider the Panasonic Blu-Ray players and the need to turn on 24P each time was a downside. But bigger in my mind was the fact that the Blu-Ray players and Smart TV tend to get stranded with out of date versions of the various streaming applications. Case in point my LG BD390 which is still fantastic for Blu-Rays and Vudu HDX both at 24P but is stranded with an ancient 720P stereo Netflix app (albeit one that supports 24P on Netflix for 24P sources!)

From what you said it sounds like Panasonic did update the Amazon App (good for them) but that certainly wasn't the norm when I was looking for a new streaming device. I still think the standalone devices are more likely to stay current that Blu-Ray players or Smart TV.
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post #1519 of 1530 Old 10-16-2014, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhughy2010 View Post
I manually changed my Intel's GPU graphics properties (under display properties) to 1920x1080 - 24p and it adjusted the TV to 24hz. It was pretty choppy for the morning news in Windows Media Center but for the Netflix Win8.1 app I didn't notice any choppiness whatsoever. It was rather smooth. I'm assuming the show "Parenthood" was filmed at 24p (the debug screen didn't show refresh rate) and it was pretty smooth watching an episode.

I did switch it back to 60p (which after further review the graphics driver sets it to 59p when you exit properties and go back into properties) and was actually unable to tell a difference when watching "Parenthood" in Netflix. The morning news in Windows Media Center was obviously less choppy at 60p (I'm assuming the news is filmed at 30hz).
So your graphics card can output P24.

The morning news would likely have been either 720P60 (60 frames per second) or 1080i60 (60 interlaced fields per second) neither of which will look great displayed at P24 as you found out.

You only want to display at P24 material that is encoded at P24 - which is why it is good to have a player that can sense P24 material and display it appropriately. Blu-Ray players generally will do this for Blu-Rays but for some reason most don't for streaming material (my ancient LG BD390 seems to be an exception and can detect P24 encoded from Netflix/Vudu - but for Netflix can only output 720P24.....)

Edit - maybe you mentioned it before what is your TV/Display. Obviously it can take P24 input - how is it displaying it? If its displaying at some multiple of P24 (96/120/240 Hz etc) it will probably replicate frames (4, 5 or 10 times) and should look best. If is displaying at P60 then you won't get any benefit from outputting P24 from your graphics card.

Last edited by undecided; 10-16-2014 at 05:20 PM.
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post #1520 of 1530 Old 10-16-2014, 09:08 PM
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So your graphics card can output P24.

The morning news would likely have been either 720P60 (60 frames per second) or 1080i60 (60 interlaced fields per second) neither of which will look great displayed at P24 as you found out.

You only want to display at P24 material that is encoded at P24 - which is why it is good to have a player that can sense P24 material and display it appropriately. Blu-Ray players generally will do this for Blu-Rays but for some reason most don't for streaming material (my ancient LG BD390 seems to be an exception and can detect P24 encoded from Netflix/Vudu - but for Netflix can only output 720P24.....)

Edit - maybe you mentioned it before what is your TV/Display. Obviously it can take P24 input - how is it displaying it? If its displaying at some multiple of P24 (96/120/240 Hz etc) it will probably replicate frames (4, 5 or 10 times) and should look best. If is displaying at P60 then you won't get any benefit from outputting P24 from your graphics card.
I got rid of my graphics card since I didn't need it and was wanting a lower power HTPC/server solution. I am currently using my i5-4440's integrated GPU as the solution for a video card. The HD 4600 driver has gotten better over time and I haven't had many problems recently with the Intel GPU. Intel's Graphics Properties Control Panel seems to detect my TV's (Sharp SQ) supported refresh rates. It would be nice to force the GPU to only adjust to 24p when it plays from the Netflix metro app. I bet there is a way I just need to figure out how to implement that. But I don't know if that is the best solution considering not all content is 24p on Netflix? I may be wrong but it doesn't seem like all their content is 24p.

Since this morning Win8.1 metro app seems to be doing just fine. All day it has been producing a bitstream of 192/5800 and the load times were reasonable too. It took about 30 seconds for an episode of Parenthood to completely load and play at the full bitrate.

Amazon Instant video sucks for an HTPC user. I usually like to stow away my keyboard and mouse but since I've been using Amazon Instant Video via their webiste and Chrome browser I have been using my keyboard and mouse. It is a pain but I think it will suffice for now. I would love it if they made a metro app... then again I bet I'd still be stuck with a keyboard and mouse. Even Netlix metro app doesn't work well with my remote. I'm only able to pause and play and sometimes that is hit or miss.

Anyhow I got on a tangent.... Netlix via the Win8.1 metro app is once again working great for me... I've discovered as an HTPC user that I have the option to manually adjust to 24p (even though it is a few extra steps if I don't have it already adjusted to 24p) and the load times aren't horrible. It looks like I'm not going to be snatching up a Roku 3 or Amazon Fire anytime soon (at the moment).

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post #1521 of 1530 Old 10-17-2014, 07:00 PM
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I had to disconnect my ATV3 as it streams Netflix fine and it is the only device that can play and maintain a HD picture on the watch channels but it keeps disconnecting from ethernet. I had the same issues with Wifi so I connected it Ethernet and now that is doing it. I look at my switch and I see the LED keeps going out for a second then goes back on again. I first replaced the switch, did a factory reset then the Ethernet cable but I don't know what is wrong. I found utter crap Googling unless it is still 2009 so I gave up. Also I won't bother posting on the Apple forums as they are a mess and I know my post will just get lost in nothing.

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post #1522 of 1530 Old 10-18-2014, 12:12 AM
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I had to disconnect my ATV3 as it streams Netflix fine and it is the only device that can play and maintain a HD picture on the watch channels but it keeps disconnecting from ethernet. I had the same issues with Wifi so I connected it Ethernet and now that is doing it. I look at my switch and I see the LED keeps going out for a second then goes back on again. I first replaced the switch, did a factory reset then the Ethernet cable but I don't know what is wrong. I found utter crap Googling unless it is still 2009 so I gave up. Also I won't bother posting on the Apple forums as they are a mess and I know my post will just get lost in nothing.
How do you know it is disconnecting from Ethernet - what is the error message? Flashing lights or not on the switch isn't telling you much.

How about directly connecting Ethernet from the Apple TV to your Asus RT-N66? If it still causing issues with this set up then you are running Merlin firmware so look in Tools / Sysinfo and you will see the status of your Asus Ethernet Ports.

Google allows you to sort search results by 'Past Hour', 'Past 24 Hours', 'Past Week', 'Past Month', 'Past Year' - that said I don't think you are seeing an Apple TV issue (unless you have a defective unit) - more likely there is something going on in your local network....

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post #1523 of 1530 Old 10-18-2014, 10:16 AM
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The LED light goes out for a brief second and comes back on like you are pulling out the cable and reconnecting it again quickly.
The weird part is that if I am streaming something it does not do that. Also another weird thing is that when I had the TV on and caught it I saw the screen flash black then on again.

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post #1524 of 1530 Old 10-18-2014, 01:05 PM
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Can't find the answer to this question: does the Xbox 360/Netflix combi support 24p? I know the stream's resolution is limited to 720p, but that doesn't bother me that much, as I've a 720p Panasonic plasma (although it requires 1080p24 input to display 24p natively).
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post #1525 of 1530 Old 10-18-2014, 03:37 PM
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Can't find the answer to this question: does the Xbox 360/Netflix combi support 24p?

No. The Xbox can only output 60p.

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post #1526 of 1530 Old 10-19-2014, 05:30 AM
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Ok, thanks. I will have to find another (24p) device then... My requirements: 720p (or higher), DD5.1 (no Plus) output via S/PDIF, 24p output (no automatic switch needed), subtitles, should work in The Netherlands (where I live), i.e., should be compatible with Netflix Netherlands/Holland. I own an Xbox 360, Raspberry Pi and Google Chromecast, but they don't support Netflix or don't support 24p. Will the WD TV Play fulfill my needs?

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post #1527 of 1530 Old 10-19-2014, 06:40 AM
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Ok, thanks. I will have to find another (24p) device then... My requirements: 720p (or higher), DD5.1 (no Plus) output via S/PDIF, 24p output (no automatic switch needed), subtitles, should work in The Netherlands (where I live), i.e., should be compatible with Netflix Netherlands/Holland. I own an Xbox 360, Raspberry Pi and Google Chromecast, but they don't support Netflix or don't support 24p. Will the WD TV Play fulfill my needs?

Not sure about TV Play; I tried it and returned it because it didn't have the little Netflix stream info display that I like. I replaced it with TV Live Streaming, which I believe will do everything you want. It's the third generation TV Live; the latest has no Netflix app. (Their ads say, "You don't need another Netflix player" ).
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post #1528 of 1530 Old 10-19-2014, 07:32 AM
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Thanks again. I think I will like the stream info display as well, so I will try to find the 3rd gen TV Live.
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post #1529 of 1530 Old 10-19-2014, 03:29 PM
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How do you know it is disconnecting from Ethernet - what is the error message? Flashing lights or not on the switch isn't telling you much.

How about directly connecting Ethernet from the Apple TV to your Asus RT-N66? If it still causing issues with this set up then you are running Merlin firmware so look in Tools / Sysinfo and you will see the status of your Asus Ethernet Ports.

Google allows you to sort search results by 'Past Hour', 'Past 24 Hours', 'Past Week', 'Past Month', 'Past Year' - that said I don't think you are seeing an Apple TV issue (unless you have a defective unit) - more likely there is something going on in your local network....
It might not be disconnecting. I might be some kind of power save feature as it does not do it when the device is awake only when asleep. Also I woke the device hit a button on the remote and the LED blinked off and on again. I could not find anything conforming this though. If anyone knows if the ATV3 suppose to do this it would be great?

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post #1530 of 1530 Old 10-28-2014, 06:35 PM
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Sure it does--my Panasonic DMP-BDT220 qualifies. Annoyingly you have to enable 24p in the player settings and turn it on for streaming every time you start a streaming app (enabling it globally gets you 24p for BD video without have to do something every time). Looking at it right now it's set to output YCbCr 4:4:4.

What's changed in it recently is that its Amazon app had been updated, to a design similar to the PS3's (this, only no cover art in the 4 small panes next to the big one). Inasmuch as my new television's Amazon app has the same UI, they seem to be making it the standard (though Fire TV's app is different). The big deal about this change is that it now support Dolby 5.1 sound and the AIV Watchlist. It does not support their 1080p video, but very few devices do as yet (my new TV is one of them).

BDT220 is a 2012 device; I presume that more recent models have all the same capabilities, but I could be wrong. Something else I always liked about the model is that it has a 1.5X FF with pitch-correct audio.
I recently bought a used a DMP-BDT220 off eBay to test its 24p output for streaming. It is a bit clunky but does actually work. The Netflix interface is very slow by today's standards, so I bought a DMP-BDT225 (stated to be identical to the DMP-BDT230) off Amazon for half price.

Unfortuantely it cannot stream at 24p. You can still play BDs at 24p, but not Netflix or Amazon. The interface on the DMP-BDT225 is improved and it is much faster, so it is a real shame that it cannot stream 24p.

With the awkward way it is implemented on the DMP-BDT220 for streaming I am not sure it was ever intended to be used with streaming.

I wonder what the big problem is with streaming 24p or streaming "direct."
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