Originally Posted by michaeltscott
Philnick, TL;DR, sorry--can you succinctly state exactly what equipment you're trying to get 1080p Amazon on? What's running the streaming app and how is it connected to your TV and to the network?
I'm using a brand-new Amazon Fire TV, connected via HDMI to my 1080p projector and via Dolby Digital over optical to my pre-HDMI AVR. This is in my basement theater. The Fire is replacing an old Roku XD|S that I'm giving to my daughter. I got the Fire to step my Prime video up to 1080 from the 720 I got from the Roku.
The Fire is cabled via ethernet to a Verizon FIOS box that I use as a MoCA bridge over coax to another FIOS box in my second-floor apartment. (I learned about using used FIOS boxes to do MoCA bridging from a thread here
.) That's connected via an ethernet cable, LAN jack to LAN jack, to my main router, an old Linksys WRT54G plugged into my Comcast Xfinity cable modem/router. The Linksys is the only router allowed to give out addresses on the network.
It turns out that according to TestMy.net my Linksys is dropping the 80 Mbps output of the Comcast router down to 25 Mbps, and that even if I connect the FIOS bridge directly to the Comcast router, the FIOS bridge has a maximum speed of about 35 Mbps, which isn't enough for my Fire to switch from "HD" to "HD 1080."
I'm using TestMy.net because it's a lot more rigorous than speedtest.net ("Ookla"). TestMy.net lets you download files consisting of random bits as large as 200 MBytes to test sustained throughput.
At this point I'm leaning towards moving the Comcast cablemodem/router down to the theater, plugging the Fire and the Oppo directly into it, and using the MoCA bridge to provide connectivity to the PC upstairs, which I've been happy enough with at its current speed. That way I can still stream music off my upstairs PC into the Oppo, since it will still all be one big happy network.