Artec T3A Pro NTIA CECB - Page 4 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #91 of 403 Old 06-25-2008, 12:36 PM
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Had mine for a few weeks and no complaints. Have an insignia also for a couple months and no complaints. Chose the Artec mainly for 12V use with small battery operated TV on a car battery in power outages. I live on the coast in hurricane land.

Had an old cigar lighter adapter with a plug that fit the Artec and it worked just fine off my boat battery.

Haven't tried and don't need use in a moving vehicle. All comments I have seen concerning moving vehicle application is that is it doesn't work well with anything for DTV.

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post #92 of 403 Old 06-25-2008, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc1 View Post

Had mine for a few weeks and no complaints. Have an insignia also for a couple months and no complaints. Chose the Artec mainly for 12V use with small battery operated TV on a car battery in power outages. I live on the coast in hurricane land.

Had an old cigar lighter adapter with a plug that fit the Artec and it worked just fine off my boat battery.

Haven't tried and don't need use in a moving vehicle. All comments I have seen concerning moving vehicle application is that is it doesn't work well with anything for DTV.

Thanks for the info.

Do you see any difference in PQ or ability to hold stations without breakup between the Artec and the Insignia?
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post #93 of 403 Old 06-25-2008, 02:14 PM
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No, But:

I haven't done a detailed comparison as the use of both is casual and sporadic and the pic is very good for both.


No dropout problems on either but note my use above. Also I have a clean, flat 19 mi shot with an arc of only 3 degrees for all my locals. For the little time I have watched them it would appear to me that both are better at locking on the stations then my 2 1/2 year old Toshiba plasma. Again no detailed study.

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post #94 of 403 Old 06-26-2008, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc1 View Post

No, But:

I haven't done a detailed comparison as the use of both is casual and sporadic and the pic is very good for both.


No dropout problems on either but note my use above. Also I have a clean, flat 19 mi shot with an arc of only 3 degrees for all my locals. For the little time I have watched them it would appear to me that both are better at locking on the stations then my 2 1/2 year old Toshiba plasma. Again no detailed study.

Thanks for the additional feedback. Any other owners have observations on the sensitivity of the Artec T3A Pro?
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post #95 of 403 Old 06-26-2008, 07:31 AM
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If you are new to OTA DTV Be aware that all your local stations will not have the same level of technical competance and investment in the proper equipment to produce the same quality of transmission. The local reception threads here on AVS are the place to learn about those problems and they can really mess up your conclusions.

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post #96 of 403 Old 07-10-2008, 09:13 PM
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I got 4 of the T3A Pros 14 days after ordering from Bsat. I paid a total of 44.76 for the 4 after coupons. $40 of that was for shipping.

They are easy to set up and have a good picture and good sensitivity similar to the Zenith DTT900 I have but with louder, improved sound. It also has an EPG that goes out as far as the PSIP info sent by the stations with program names and times but has a description for only the current and next programs. The picture was even better after I adjusted it.

It does not get that hot even though it only has vent holes on the bottom. Anyway it vents out around the openings for the connections, the place where the top connects to the case, and around the switch on top. I opened the unit up after it had been operating for several hours, I touched my finger to the LG SOC chip(while it was running) and it was hot but I could hold my finger on it without any real pain for as long as I wanted. I would guess it probably runs no more than 120 degrees F.

Overall I am pleased so far with this converter and it has a 12 month warranty that is longer than some others.
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post #97 of 403 Old 07-17-2008, 07:01 PM
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lcaylor... how do you open the T3A Pro case?
I'm afraid I will break the case.
Does it unsnap and how does it unsnap? I can't find any screws.
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post #98 of 403 Old 07-18-2008, 04:14 AM
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Peel the rubber foot tabs off the front, I think, edge on the bottom. Small screw under each. Don't remember if it snaps, but, "if you have to force it it ain't right".

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post #99 of 403 Old 07-18-2008, 08:25 AM
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tc1 thanks. I looked under the back feet, didn't think it would only have 2 screws.
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post #100 of 403 Old 07-18-2008, 08:26 AM
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tc1 is right there are 2 screws under the 2 front rubber feet that you remove after peeling the feet off. Then you can put a small screwdriver between the top and the strip that goes around the center of the unit. It prys up on the front of the unit first. It does take some force to get it off but it shouldn't break. Actually I just used my fingernail to pop the top off.
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post #101 of 403 Old 07-19-2008, 08:28 PM
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Cut and paste of my early Artec observations from the DTVPAL thread:

Got a couple Artecs today. Not sure if they use the same LG chip as Zenith or Venturer or not.

Preliminary comparison: Artec is probably a hair sharper. I was unplugging the antenna and RCAs to each and not fast A-B switching with multiple connections, so there would be a minute lapse between eyeballing.

I was mainly watching MLB baseball on Fox, the local weather channel for lots of text, and some X-game type show on NBC. Being a little sharper doesn't necessarily mean better. The Artec seemed to have more jaggies, especially on the white edge of baseball uniforms when they moved, and it was horrendous on the straight edges of objects the X-game skateboarder was jumping around. Like playing a low-res computer game with no antialiasing.

The difference between the PAL and the Artec kind of reminded me of the difference between 720p and 1080i. One's generally better with less motion, the other is generally better with more motion. Or when watching Barbara Walters on The View, I guess. (soft focus.)

Having said that, I so far didn't notice the difference to be extreme or anything nor would put a big emphasis on either one being "better," just trying to give an example with the 720p/1080i comment.

The strangest part is how pink/red everything is on the Artec. I messed with the hue, messed with the colors and tint on the TV, and it's just annoying. Everyone looks like they just stepped out of a tanning booth. The text on Info and things is not the easiest to read, either. From the pictures I've seen, still better than the Tivax!

Artec was half the price of the DTVPAL, so that's good. But not diggin' the Artec remote. It looks cheap. it feels cheap. is there really no aspect ratio button on it?

Rammitinski said a good analog signal looks better to him than the digital SD on the PAL. I agree. A good analog signal also looks better than the Artec. I would expect a good analog signal to look better than digital on an analog set.

I haven't hooked the Artec to my HDTV yet. Hmm, I guess I'll go do that....
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post #102 of 403 Old 07-19-2008, 10:25 PM
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I don't want anyone to think I think the Pal is absolutely terrible - I've seen much worse from SD ATSC tuners. It's just that I've seen better.
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post #103 of 403 Old 07-20-2008, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malouff View Post

If you do find out what shipping is at http://www.digitalstar.com please share.

Update: Shipping for 2 is $12. Posted earlier Shipping for 1 is $7.50
Price is $2.95ea (CECB)
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post #104 of 403 Old 07-20-2008, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFranchise View Post

Cut and paste of my early Artec observations from the DTVPAL thread:

Got a couple Artecs today. Not sure if they use the same LG chip as Zenith or Venturer or not.

Preliminary comparison: Artec is probably a hair sharper. I was unplugging the antenna and RCAs to each and not fast A-B switching with multiple connections, so there would be a minute lapse between eyeballing.

I was mainly watching MLB baseball on Fox, the local weather channel for lots of text, and some X-game type show on NBC. Being a little sharper doesn't necessarily mean better. The Artec seemed to have more jaggies, especially on the white edge of baseball uniforms when they moved, and it was horrendous on the straight edges of objects the X-game skateboarder was jumping around. Like playing a low-res computer game with no antialiasing.

The difference between the PAL and the Artec kind of reminded me of the difference between 720p and 1080i. One's generally better with less motion, the other is generally better with more motion. Or when watching Barbara Walters on The View, I guess. (soft focus.)

Having said that, I so far didn't notice the difference to be extreme or anything nor would put a big emphasis on either one being "better," just trying to give an example with the 720p/1080i comment.

The strangest part is how pink/red everything is on the Artec. I messed with the hue, messed with the colors and tint on the TV, and it's just annoying. Everyone looks like they just stepped out of a tanning booth. The text on Info and things is not the easiest to read, either. From the pictures I've seen, still better than the Tivax!

Artec was half the price of the DTVPAL, so that's good. But not diggin' the Artec remote. It looks cheap. it feels cheap. is there really no aspect ratio button on it?

Rammitinski said a good analog signal looks better to him than the digital SD on the PAL. I agree. A good analog signal also looks better than the Artec. I would expect a good analog signal to look better than digital on an analog set.

I haven't hooked the Artec to my HDTV yet. Hmm, I guess I'll go do that....

The Artec has the same LG chip and Sanyo tuner as the Zenith.
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post #105 of 403 Old 07-22-2008, 09:51 AM
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I've had my two Artec boxes for about a month now. They will stop working if there is too much heat. I had read in an earlier post of the problem and went ahead and drilled vent holes in the top on both sides of the on/off switch. With the Artec sitting on top of my satellite receiver there is just enough extra heat to cause the unit to shut down. It's still on, but all the channels show no signal. I moved it off the receiver to another shelf and the problem went away. I would strongly suggest you do not put the Artec where there is bad ventilation or an additional heat source. Other than that I've got two of them and they are working fine.....
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post #106 of 403 Old 07-22-2008, 10:07 AM
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Makes sense since the vent holes are on the bottom and heat rises. In any case like you describe right up and into the Artec.

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post #107 of 403 Old 07-23-2008, 09:44 PM
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europabil, you said the Artec shuts down if it gets to hot. Can you use a cpu fan on it to keep it cool?
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post #108 of 403 Old 08-20-2008, 08:14 AM
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I've been looking all over for someone with a similar issue with no luck. Here's my problem. My in-laws have Direct TV but don't want to pay for the local channels. They purchased the Artec T3a and from looking at it I thought you could simply run the Direct TV line into it, kind of like if you went through a DVD player or VCR.

When I connected it I get the Artec Welcome screen and was able to detect channels but the Direct TV didn't work. I messed with it a bit using some splitters and here's where I got stumped.

I took the Direct TV line from the wall and plugged it into a splitter, I then ran 1 cable into the Direct TV box, like it was before the splitter, and 1 cable to the Artec box. The Artec was then connected to the TV via the composite cables. If the Artec's video cable was unplugged, Direct TV came on fine but as soon as they were both connected, Direct TV went out.

I tried putting the Artec in several different configurations within the line to get it to work with Direct TV with no luck. Do they just not play nice together or am I just not hooking them up right?

If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated.
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post #109 of 403 Old 08-20-2008, 08:40 AM
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Not sure I understand what you did. No DirectTV experience either so wild guess. I assume the directTV is connected by coax to TV ant in, put it back the way it was. Connect OTA ant. coax to Artec in and Composit out to TV. Use TV menu to switch between DirectTV input or Artec composit input. Clear as Mud?

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post #110 of 403 Old 08-20-2008, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaithlessX View Post

I've been looking all over for someone with a similar issue with no luck. Here's my problem. My in-laws have Direct TV but don't want to pay for the local channels. They purchased the Artec T3a and from looking at it I thought you could simply run the Direct TV line into it, kind of like if you went through a DVD player or VCR.

When I connected it I get the Artec Welcome screen and was able to detect channels but the Direct TV didn't work. I messed with it a bit using some splitters and here's where I got stumped.

I took the Direct TV line from the wall and plugged it into a splitter, I then ran 1 cable into the Direct TV box, like it was before the splitter, and 1 cable to the Artec box. The Artec was then connected to the TV via the composite cables. If the Artec's video cable was unplugged, Direct TV came on fine but as soon as they were both connected, Direct TV went out.

I tried putting the Artec in several different configurations within the line to get it to work with Direct TV with no luck. Do they just not play nice together or am I just not hooking them up right?

If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated.

Danger Will Robinson!!!

For the type of hook-up you are describing, you shouldn't use a standard splitter. You'll need a diplexer in place of the splitter to run that way.

YOU MUST KEEP IN MIND that the DIRECTV receiver sends DC current up the cable to power the LNB amplifiers in the dish's feed. There are a couple of ways to isolate your Artec so that it doesn't see that DC voltage on its input, but using a diplexer, like
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
is the usual approach.

I would not run a DIRECTV feed straight into a VCR, for the same reason. It *might* work, but only if it passes the DC voltage up to the dish unaffected.

Since you were able to detect channels, does that mean you have a separate OTA TV antenna on the roof diplexed into the coax feed at that point? Your basic DIRECTV dish would make an awful OTA antenna, IMO.

[Edit: You can get diplexers cheaper than this one at RS. For example, at Circuit City:
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Phili...oductDetail.do

Didn't want you to think they had to be pricey.]
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post #111 of 403 Old 08-20-2008, 11:46 AM
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FaithlessX,

I was also assuming you had a separate OTA antenna and lead in.

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post #112 of 403 Old 08-20-2008, 01:28 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I haven't messed with Direct TV ever so I was just going off the existing setup and trying to work the Artec in the middle somewhere. I'm not even sure how everything is connected, I just know there's a jungle of wires behind the TV from the Direct TV installer... I'll have to check into diplexers. Thanks again!
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post #113 of 403 Old 02-23-2009, 11:16 PM
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Review of the Artec T3AP (not Pro!)

It pulls in all the channels my Insignia NS-DXA1-APT does, and to test it, I unplugged my preamp and rescanned, and the only station it missed was the same weak one the Insignia misses.

The menu and EPG look almost identical to the NS-DXA1-APT, with a now/next transparent look, using the same style boxes and fonts, weird. It's also much smaller than the NS-DXA1-APT, but all plastic. Only a power button on the unit, so don't lose that remote!

The power supply is a wall wart made by DVE. It says the output is 12VDC @ 0.5A. Testing with a multimeter shows 11.9VDC output. It has a diagram showing polarity of the plug on the wall wart also, so I see no reason why you couldn't make a power cord for a lighter socket. Here's a link to a similar model power supply made by the same company.

http://208.109.237.27/cat253/itemdet...6&categoryId=2

In my short test, I did notice the picture quality looked a bit dark and greenish, but in the menus there are adjustments for hue, contrast and brightness to correct that. A weird "feature" I've never seen before. Also noticed there's a video freeze button that freezes the picture. Another odd feature I can't see using for anything.

I'd give it a thumbs up for mobile 12VDC use I see no reason why it would not work.

There's a 3 pin jack on the back called "data port". Any idea what that is for?
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post #114 of 403 Old 02-24-2009, 06:28 AM
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12VDC: I believe earlier posters of this thread are using this in their RV directly wired to the 12v battery/alternator.
The data port is a rs232 port, most likely for firmware to be loaded at the mfg facility. I've seen nothing where end users have hacked this device.

I have drilled 1.4" hole in each top corner for cooling and have it mounted on its' side -zero issues so far.
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post #115 of 403 Old 02-24-2009, 08:37 AM
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Are there screws under the footpads?
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post #116 of 403 Old 02-26-2009, 04:24 PM
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Hi:

I have been using a T3A PRO box since about sometime last summer and I am generally satisfied with the unit. However they've recently come out with the analog passthrough model. So I am wondering if they've updated the basic box in terms of firmware or in other respects other than just the analog passthrough. Any thoughts on that?

Also, some members were wondering about 12v or emergency usage for these units. I found the following webpages that will be of interest. They all feature the T3A Pro and how to hook it up for 12v. The second link even has them hooking it up to 2 lantern batteries and outputting it to one of those handheld tv's.

www(dot)ezdigitaltv(dot)com/RVs_and_Converter_Boxes.html

www(dot)digitaltvtrainer(dot)com/national/showme-battery-tv-converter

www(dot)digitaltvtrainer(dot)com/national/converter-car-rv

P.S. Sorry about the (dot) notation but I don't have enough privilege at
this time to post urls.
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post #117 of 403 Old 02-26-2009, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpeter105 View Post

Hi:

Also, some members were wondering about 12v or emergency usage for these units. I found the following webpages that will be of interest. They all feature the T3A Pro and how to hook it up for 12v. The second link even has them hooking it up to 2 lantern batteries and outputting it to one of those handheld tv's.

I use one in my Pilot connected the video1 input of a DDX812. I did use 2 diodes in serial to drop the voltage to 12 volts when the car is running. The remote still controls the unit under the passenger seat from the reflected IR.
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post #118 of 403 Old 03-01-2009, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mntmst View Post

I use one in my Pilot connected the video1 input of a DDX812. I did use 2 diodes in serial to drop the voltage to 12 volts when the car is running. The remote still controls the unit under the passenger seat from the reflected IR.

Hi:

Thank you for replying. Sorry to get back to you somewhat after the fact. I'm curious about using the box while the engine is running. Is it really necessary to add those 2 diodes? In other words do you think it'll toast the box if you used it without those diodes, with the engine running?

My own interest in the 12v aspect is for when the power goes out. I have one of those booster packs with a 14-ah battery and a 5-inch b/w tv that runs off 12v. I just need to get the proper cord for the Artec.
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post #119 of 403 Old 03-01-2009, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpeter105 View Post

I have been using a T3A PRO box since about sometime last summer and I am generally satisfied with the unit. Also, some members were wondering about 12v or emergency usage for these units. I found the following webpages that will be of interest. They all feature the T3A Pro and how to hook it up for 12v. The second link even has them hooking it up to 2 lantern batteries and outputting it to one of those handheld tv's.

www(dot)ezdigitaltv(dot)com/RVs_and_Converter_Boxes.html
www(dot)digitaltvtrainer(dot)com/national/showme-battery-tv-converter
www(dot)digitaltvtrainer(dot)com/national/converter-car-rv

I too am concerned about receiving the latest emergency news bulletins and need to run on battery power. I was using a small 5" B&W NTSC TV indoors, but my 8" digital TV requires an outdoor antenna. I knew about the first link, but I didn't know about the other two; thanks! I'll post them for you:

http://ezdigitaltv.com/RVs_and_Converter_Boxes.html

http://digitaltvtrainer.com/national...y-tv-converter

http://digitaltvtrainer.com/national/converter-car-rv

I would like to add this one from their excellent site:
http://www.digitaltvtrainer.com/nati...h-tv-power-off

I'm using a small sinewave inverter, the Exeltech XP125, which comes with a cigarette lighter plug which fits the jack on my J900 and ES2500 12volt 17Ah jumper packs.

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post #120 of 403 Old 03-01-2009, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpeter105 View Post

I'm curious about using the box while the engine is running. Is it really necessary to add those 2 diodes? In other words do you think it'll toast the box if you used it without those diodes, with the engine running?

To paraphrase holl_ands: Just because a piece of equipment has an input jack that is marked 12VDC, doesn't mean that it is a good idea to connect it to the 12V system of a vehicle.

The problem is the tolerance limits on the voltage. I have an 8" TV that has a regulated switchmode AC adapter that very closly regulates the 12V. I asked Audiovox what the tolerance on the 12volts was, but never got an answer. So, to be conservative, I decided to either use the AC adapter with an inverter, or make a battery pack that has a voltage regulator to duplicate the performance of the AC adapter.

I also asked the manufactuer of a CECB that needs 5VDC (not Zinwell) about the voltage tolerance limits if I run it DIRECTLY on batteries. The answer that I got was that I should use an inverter; not too helpful. The sales people in the US would have to ask an engineer overseas that question, which is not likely.
Even if the engineer was asked, he might not know because he had assumed that the box would always be used with the voltage regulated adapter.

One of the excellent links that you listed, talks about using a box on a lower voltage and it still behaves. But, what about using it on a higher voltage? How much is too much for a 12 volt box:---14 volts---15 volts---when will it fry? Which one of us is willing to keep increasing the voltage until our box goes up in smoke? The two diodes in series provide about a 0.6 volt drop for each, a total of 1.2 volts when the vehicle is running. The voltage in my car is about 12 volts when not running, and about 14.5 volts when recharging the battery after starting.

Last night I measured the input voltage and current of my Artec T3A Pro:
OFF: 12.04 volts @ 5.8 mA
ON: 11.96 volts @ 0.31 A
The current when off is lower than many other boxes. There still has to be a little current in order for the remote control to turn it ON. I measured the input voltage and current of my Zinwell ZAT-970A:
OFF: 5.08 volts @ 0.16 A
ON: 4.99 volts @ 0.69 A
Notice how much current it draws even when "OFF," almost 25 % of the ON current.

If you can not measure it, you can not improve it.
Lord Kelvin, 1883
www.megalithia.com/elect/aerialsite/dttpoorman.html
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