Zenith (LG) DTT900 CECB - Page 84 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 27Likes
Reply
Thread Tools
post #2491 of 2509 Old 03-11-2015, 06:12 AM
AVS Special Member
 
zaphod7501's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Peoria Illinois
Posts: 1,956
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 39
RE: Electrolytics Just an FYI
The type that fail use an organic electrolyte. Making them biodegradable.

They smell bad when they leak. Hence the moniker "Fish-caps". (dead fish odor) The corrosive liquid can literally eat through copper traces on double sided circuit boards.
phildaant and Floydage like this.

Sturgeon's Law: "Nothing is always absolutely so."
Sturgeons Revelation: "Ninety percent of everything is crud."
My Thoughts: "A reasoned argument must share some basic common points."
zaphod7501 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2492 of 2509 Old 03-11-2015, 09:34 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Floydage's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 1,601
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 49 Post(s)
Liked: 50
Something smells rotten in Denmark!
I wonder if those are somehow made from fish product? I remember way back when Japanese motorcycles would come from the factory with a fish oil version of front shock fluid, really stunk when it came time to change out.
Seems to be the Asian way to make a wide variety of products from fish remnants due to their abundance over yonder, wouldn't want anything to go to waste.

Whitebar, those the kind of caps you've seen in the CMs gone bad?

Floydage is online now  
post #2493 of 2509 Old 03-11-2015, 04:31 PM
Member
 
Whitebar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 65
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Yes they are all electrolytics. Can't say if they are organic, none of the parts have popped, leaked or even domed. The ESR just went high rendering the cap ineffective.
Floydage likes this.
Whitebar is online now  
post #2494 of 2509 Old 03-16-2015, 11:09 AM
AVS Special Member
 
seatacboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,089
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked: 21
A few months ago, Amazon was still selling brand-new Zenith DTT900/901 remotes. I bought six, so I have remotes for the four DTT-900s, one DTT-901 and one Insignia NS-DXA1 CECBs that I've picked up along the way. These genuine brand-new Zenith remotes are no longer in stock at Amazon. One of my DTT 900s finally died, and I don't plan to purchase any more CECBs. One curiosity - using an old-style coax to twin-lead transformer, I have one connected to a 1968-vintage 13" black-and-white Sony television used as a conversation piece in a spare bedroom! Obviously, I have to set the Sony's analog tuner to channel 3 or channel 4.

I hope the FCC's spectrum reallocation scheme doesn't shift signals (television or otherwise) onto RF channels 3 or 4. Such interference with channels 3 or 4 would destroy the ability of vintage-TV collectors to use their sets for anything like a DVD/VCR or a humble converter box.
seatacboy is offline  
post #2495 of 2509 Old 03-17-2015, 09:11 AM
Member
 
jvvh5897's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 52
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Liked: 13
As I understand it, the low VHF band is considered unsuitable for digital TV. But it is also a poor pick for digital wifi because of the long wavelength and the need for big antenna. So, I'm thinking that band will likely be unused for modern digital signals and left as is for legacy TV use.
jvvh5897 is offline  
post #2496 of 2509 Old 03-17-2015, 10:08 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Floydage's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 1,601
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 49 Post(s)
Liked: 50
Shouldn't matter anyway since you're all cabled in, would take a pretty strong signal to interfere (and you could add shielding around the tuner). I suspect those channels are off limits anyway, or whatever can use them has to be very low power. Yeah the trend was to go up in frequency with DTV, freeing up the lower frequencies for cellphones and such.

I had an interference issue with a similar setup. The old mechanical TV tuner wasn't designed to shield against the digital noise of a converter box. Aluminum foil between the box and TV helped a little, but the real fix was to position the box several feet away from the TV.

Floydage is online now  
post #2497 of 2509 Old 03-18-2015, 09:51 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Bismarck440's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: NE Ohio... AKA the angry white planet Ohth
Posts: 1,494
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 228 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydage View Post
Shouldn't matter anyway since you're all cabled in, would take a pretty strong signal to interfere (and you could add shielding around the tuner). .
Was going to add but you are way ahead of me!

Really the caps are still fine in my 1978 Vintage RCA, they making them cheaper now I imagine... ROHS materials not as durable.
Bismarck440 is offline  
post #2498 of 2509 Old 03-18-2015, 10:58 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Floydage's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 1,601
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 49 Post(s)
Liked: 50
"A channel 3/4 output was a common output selection for consumer audiovisual devices sold in North America that were intended to be connected to a TV using a radio frequency (RF) signal. This channel option was provided because it was rare to have broadcast channels 3 and 4 used in the same market, or even just channel 3 itself. The choice allowed the user to select the unused channel in their area so that the connected device would be able to provide video and audio on an RF feed to the television without excessive interference from a broadcast signal."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Channel_3/4_output

[note this Wiki does not cite any references or sources]
____________________________________
"It may be due mentioning that nothing has changed for this VHF-Low TV band, the only thing that has changed is the manner TV stations used to broadcast services, earlier operating via analog, now transporting services within digital streams. No VHF-low band frequencies have been removed or added nor have they been auctioned off .."

http://digitaltv.spycurb.com/VHF_Low_Band.html

Per that site only the upper UHF channels were reallocated:

http://digitaltv.spycurb.com/realloc...f_channel.html

Now that I think about it, those frequencies make more sense for cellular, etc.

Bismarck, I see there's an Antenna Rig. tab in this site too.
phildaant likes this.

Floydage is online now  
post #2499 of 2509 Old 03-22-2015, 09:23 PM
Member
 
hitbyambulance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 30
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by seatacboy View Post
One curiosity - using an old-style coax to twin-lead transformer, I have one connected to a 1968-vintage 13" black-and-white Sony television used as a conversation piece in a spare bedroom! Obviously, I have to set the Sony's analog tuner to channel 3 or channel 4.
my dad had wired up an early-80s portable B&W set to a DigitalStream CECB with the twin-leads for my mom to use. that TV has since died and been replaced with a early-00s cheapy Curtis B&W portable (yeah, they were still being made then, but just barely...) i showed my dad that if you used the composite IN rather than the RF, the picture looks much better...
Floydage likes this.
hitbyambulance is offline  
post #2500 of 2509 Old Yesterday, 11:28 AM
Member
 
See The Light's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 183
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 25
My DTT900 has died!

This morning, I noticed that the on light was not displaying. I leave the Zenith on.

I unplugged the Zenith and plugged it back into the Monster PowerCenter 750 (which I bought last year).

I then disconnected the Zenith and plugged it in to another outlet.

Still, the unit would not turn on.

It was made in April 2008. It's serial # is 804SHFK140507
SERV. NO. LSX300-4DM

I have plugged in the RCA DTA 800 B1 in place of the Zenith.

Anyone else have a DTT900 die? Is there a solution???

Cable Channel Choice is the only choice I want to make !!
See The Light is offline  
post #2501 of 2509 Old Yesterday, 11:35 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Floydage's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 1,601
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 49 Post(s)
Liked: 50
Some devices have an internal fuse (on the PCB) so you might check. Otherwise hopefully someone will reply, or RIP.
phildaant likes this.

Floydage is online now  
post #2502 of 2509 Old Yesterday, 11:40 AM
AVS Special Member
 
phildaant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: An Ant Farm
Posts: 3,082
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 479 Post(s)
Liked: 153
Quote:
Originally Posted by See The Light View Post
My DTT900 has died!

This morning, I noticed that the on light was not displaying. I leave the Zenith on.

I unplugged the Zenith and plugged it back into the Monster PowerCenter 750 (which I bought last year).

I then disconnected the Zenith and plugged it in to another outlet.

Still, the unit would not turn on.

It was made in April 2008. It's serial # is 804SHFK140507
SERV. NO. LSX300-4DM

I have plugged in the RCA DTA 800 B1 in place of the Zenith.

Anyone else have a DTT900 die? Is there a solution???
Open it up and see what is inside if anything interesting.
phildaant is offline  
post #2503 of 2509 Old Yesterday, 01:04 PM
Member
 
See The Light's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 183
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by phildaant View Post
Open it up and see what is inside if anything interesting.
Okay, I unscrewed the three bolts, and took the cover off. I did not see a traditional fuse.

Here is a picture of what I saw:

In the attached picture, in the upper left corner, printed in white on the brown board is:
"CAUTION RISK OF FIRE
REPLACE FUSING RESISTOR AS MARKED
ICW 2.2 Ω 2W"

There is a white rectangular piece below what is stated above.
On top of the white piece is inscribed 2W 2.2 Ω J
The ID on the board at one side of the white piece is FR101

Due to my limited knowledge of circuit/power boards, I do not think that I can "pull out" the white retangular piece. It seems like like this may be a soldering job.

The brown power board label appears to be from LG:
D2A BOX
LG EAX37677602
2007.11.15 MP ver.2
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20150328_145038.jpg
Views:	11
Size:	234.8 KB
ID:	632193  
phildaant likes this.

Cable Channel Choice is the only choice I want to make !!

Last edited by See The Light; Yesterday at 02:20 PM.
See The Light is offline  
post #2504 of 2509 Old Yesterday, 01:26 PM
AVS Special Member
 
phildaant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: An Ant Farm
Posts: 3,082
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 479 Post(s)
Liked: 153
Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by See The Light View Post
Okay, I unscrewed the three bolts, and too the cover off. I did not see a traditional fuse.

Here is a picture of what I saw:

In the attached picture, in the upper left corner, printed in white on the brown board is:
"CAUTION RISK OF FIRE
REPLACE FUSING RESISTOR AS MARKED
ICW 2.2 Ω 2W"

There is a white rectangular piece below what is stated above.
On top of the white piece is inscribed 2W 2.2 Ω J
The ID on the board at one side of the white piece is FR101
Wow, that looks clean as new. Did it have any burn or horrible smell/odor?
phildaant is offline  
post #2505 of 2509 Unread Yesterday, 02:20 PM
Member
 
See The Light's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 183
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by phildaant View Post
Wow, that looks clean as new. Did it have any burn or horrible smell/odor?
No, no burn or bad smell.
phildaant likes this.

Cable Channel Choice is the only choice I want to make !!
See The Light is offline  
post #2506 of 2509 Unread Yesterday, 03:43 PM
Advanced Member
 
ccrider2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 574
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by See The Light View Post
Okay, I unscrewed the three bolts, and took the cover off. I did not see a traditional fuse.

Here is a picture of what I saw:

In the attached picture, in the upper left corner, printed in white on the brown board is:
"CAUTION RISK OF FIRE
REPLACE FUSING RESISTOR AS MARKED
ICW 2.2 Ω 2W"

There is a white rectangular piece below what is stated above.
On top of the white piece is inscribed 2W 2.2 Ω J
The ID on the board at one side of the white piece is FR101

Due to my limited knowledge of circuit/power boards, I do not think that I can "pull out" the white retangular piece. It seems like like this may be a soldering job.

The brown power board label appears to be from LG:
D2A BOX
LG EAX37677602
2007.11.15 MP ver.2

Been mention here and other product forums, about bad capacitors. Is that cap in the foreground, on the left, have a bulging top? Might be an issue, or at least one of them. I replaced a few on mine, but no joy. I've read elsewhere that once they start going, they're probably all in bad shape. Something about the ESR Equivalent Series Resistance getting too high, I think. Others more knowledgeable than myself, here.


Good Luck
phildaant likes this.

Chris C
ccrider2 is offline  
post #2507 of 2509 Unread Yesterday, 06:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
zaphod7501's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Peoria Illinois
Posts: 1,956
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 39
The cap in the bottom left corner is definitely bad. You should change all of them of the same value and brand to be safe. Changing bad caps gives you about a 30-40% chance of fixing the problem, in my experience.

The reason it's not a higher percentage is that bad caps can cause other electronic failures.

Also caps can blow out the bottom as well as the top. Much harder to detect from visual inspection.
phildaant likes this.

Sturgeon's Law: "Nothing is always absolutely so."
Sturgeons Revelation: "Ninety percent of everything is crud."
My Thoughts: "A reasoned argument must share some basic common points."
zaphod7501 is offline  
post #2508 of 2509 Unread Yesterday, 10:09 PM
Member
 
See The Light's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 183
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 25
Okay, Thank You
phildaant likes this.

Cable Channel Choice is the only choice I want to make !!
See The Light is offline  
post #2509 of 2509 Unread Today, 09:34 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Floydage's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 1,601
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 49 Post(s)
Liked: 50
Check that fusing resistor if you decide to change the caps, bad power supply caps could have fried it. It's such a low value that you should be able to ohm it out in circuit (i.e. if a high resistance but not an open it's bad, good should be 2.2 ohms or less).

Floydage is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Coupon Eligible Converter Box (CECB)

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off