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post #1 of 59 Old 04-13-2008, 11:35 AM - Thread Starter
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After my previous thread I learned so much I decided to change around the room a ton and start a new thread without all the junk in it. I have about a 1200 Sqfoot basement and will be finishing all of it at the same time.

Room Size: 18*15*7'8"


I am going all out on sound isolation:

(thanks to Bpape for a great price)
Risc Dc04 for tops of size wall plates, RSIC-1 + hat Channel for entire ceiling, two layers of 5/8 Drywall seperated by 7-% coverage Green Glue

Walls not by concrete are staggered stud (3 of the 4) Wall by the concrete is 2x4 standard 2" of side plate

Projector is purchased, couldnt pass up the 1400 AR MIT HC4900

Still debating on the screen type, either 110 diag SMX AT or 110 Carada

Speakers will be either aperion or axiom top of the line models 7.1 config

Lighting controller (purchased off ebay) if a Graphik Eye 2404 $200 shipped

Speakers will be ran off a Onkyo 805 receiver (purchased)

Now for some pics to start off the new thread:

Empty basement:



Clips





All the Studs and insulation



Framing Half Done





Clips Installed







And here is a very rough dimensional layout of the room, still have a ton of stuff to do on this guy.

I look forward to updating weekly and gladly accept any ideas for concepts from anyone, it is still a very much blank slate after the walls are up.

Thanks,

Joe
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post #2 of 59 Old 04-13-2008, 05:34 PM
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Looks like it will be nice!

-----------------------------------------
The Lava Lounge Construction Photos
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post #3 of 59 Old 04-13-2008, 05:43 PM
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looks great keep up the good work
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post #4 of 59 Old 04-13-2008, 06:21 PM
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From the looks of your dimensional layout, all your speakers won't be of equal listening distance. How are you going to correct that?
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post #5 of 59 Old 04-13-2008, 06:30 PM - Thread Starter
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That is actually one of the problems I have, because of that stupid dual HVAC soffit on the left of the theatre. My ceiling is 7' 8" and the HVAC drop is 10" off that, add drywall and framing even with plywood it is getting pretty close to head scrape (I am 6 2)

I had it priced by several contractors and they all want like 2k to move the ducts out of there, too much for my budget.

I also kind of figure that if you are sitting on the right or left seat in a centered room, then you are not in the middle of the sound anyway. So if one speaker is a little further away, then that is ok too.

I am not sure what else to do, ideas gladly accepted.
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post #6 of 59 Old 04-13-2008, 07:53 PM
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Is there any way to figure out the peices needed to the ducts to the left, you pay to get them made and install yourself?

Lowering the ceiling is out based on your height.
You stated you wanted to go all out on sound insulation/quality, so I would say do not cheat here or you might make all of your hard work up until this point worthless in the end.

2k$ is a ripoff if you ask me! I would try to DIY it first before I spent that kind of money. Heck even if they 90'd them out to the left then continued on the other side of the steel beam.

I am such a NOOB at A/V..
The "Not Hers" Build
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post #7 of 59 Old 04-19-2008, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, my back hurts, but my theater is starting to take shape. I cannot believe how much work those staggered stud walls are, it is like building two walls at once, literally.

Here are some pics:

Looking at the screen wall. All staggered stud walls with isolation




Stupid pain in the A$$ ductwork



Closeup of staggered stud walls with RISC DC04 isolation
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post #8 of 59 Old 04-19-2008, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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What does everyone think of this sconce

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post #9 of 59 Old 04-19-2008, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJoeMoose View Post

What does everyone think of this sconce


Not bad, Does it match your room's theme? I'd use it.

Jack Daniels Theater Construction

Electrical Stage
Odds and Ends
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post #10 of 59 Old 04-24-2008, 08:11 PM - Thread Starter
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How do I wire the theater for circuits?

Ex. Projector + equipment on 1 circuit 15A
Lights on 2nd circuit,
outlets for main room on 3rd

Any good links or rules of thumb for best wiring on a HT?
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post #11 of 59 Old 04-24-2008, 08:26 PM
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BigJoeMoose,

Keep your projector and equipment on the same circuit to avoid ground loops. Also, make it a 20 amp circuit and not a 15 amp circuit, you may need the power. The 20 amp circuit won't cost you much more than the 15 amp circuit.

Put the lights and outlets on a different phase than the projector and equipment circuit. This will keep some electrical noise off of the projector and equipment circuit.

Lastly, Home Theater magazine (the Audio Video Interiors section) had a good article on theater wiring in the December 2006 issue.

Good luck.

Dave
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post #12 of 59 Old 04-25-2008, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave J View Post

BigJoeMoose,

Put the lights and outlets on a different phase than the projector and equipment circuit. This will keep some electrical noise off of the projector and equipment circuit.

Dave

I see this written in here every now and then. How many of you have multiple phases wired to your home? I have yet to see a home here that has multiple phases. Office buildings yes, but homes, no.

Mike

Where am I with my HT build?

Still Dreaming! But I built a shed!
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post #13 of 59 Old 04-25-2008, 12:55 PM
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In2Photos,

I have two phase service in my house. My electrician said two phase service is common in residential housing. This may be true for my area, but I don't know about other areas of the country.

Dave
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post #14 of 59 Old 04-27-2008, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I finished the exterior staggered studd framing of the home theatre, got the door framed and ordered, and will have the rest of the top plates done within a few days.

Here are some pics:

Outside corner



Looking at door entrance, decided to go in the side so I could push up the seats back to the wall, buys me a more savy user experience.

I ordered a french paneled solid core safe-n-sound door from lowes custom cut to a 76 door with 78" opening



This is how I am isolating the staggered stud under the i-beam ran wood flush to the surface and mounted my DC04 clups to them



Close-up view of my rig, I will still use another bolt, just wanted to see what it looked like and if it worked.




My next step is to start the soffits/Riser/Hvac I bought about 100 feet of insulated 6" duct to replace the sheet metal. I also signed up to be a green glue commercial application tester, so about 1000 sq feet of green glue will be en-route soon.
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post #15 of 59 Old 04-27-2008, 05:27 PM
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Hey Moose, your frame, I-beam and and "pain in the ass" duct work are a mirror image to what I had. I remember thinking,what the hell am I going to do now ? I't actually gave my room a little more pizazz when it was all said and done. Looks like your off to a good start, enjoy, and keep posting progress.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mahler00...82534891218850
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post #16 of 59 Old 04-30-2008, 06:18 PM - Thread Starter
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First off, I want to truly thank the guys from The Soundproofing Company, John Hile and Ted White, it is very rare to randomly call a company and get two knowledgeable guys, willing to spend 1/2 hour on the phone discussing all types of various sound proofing stuff.

Ted went over many of the concepts of my build and offered me some great guidance on the doors, soffits, and overall sound isolation I am looking for. With all my HVAC and I_beam issues, it was nice to get some professional help.

Good News Today.....

HVAC guy provided me with a quote of 450 to split my ducts to each side and allow me to have a symmetrical room....sound the trumpets....thank god

Also came in and gave me a great quote on cracking my basement and running pipes for a new bathroom - 850 including finishing for use.

I got the guy off a local job site.

Other.... ordered all my cable from monoprice as well, great prices
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post #17 of 59 Old 05-01-2008, 07:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Now that I have all my stuff where I want it, here is my layout. I will go over all the soundproofig and wall treatment stuff again as well.

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post #18 of 59 Old 05-01-2008, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJoeMoose View Post

HVAC guy provided me with a quote of 450 to split my ducts to each side and allow me to have a symmetrical room....sound the trumpets....thank god

cut and paste from another post:

If your house is like most of ours, you have large metal ducts called "trunks" that supply heated and cooled air and bring it back via returns. Off of these trunks you will have individual take off ducts that each supply an individual register somewhere in the house.

The worst cast scenario is you have metal take off ducts,

So you build a theater and it should have both supplies and returns. The most common technique is to just cut in a couple of supplies and returns and use metal ducts to connect up the theater.

If you or your contractor does this, it is nearly identical to cutting a hole in the ceiling to the room above from a sound containment perspective.

There are are number of solutions and generally the amount of sound isolation is dependent on how much you are willing to spend.

The cheapest solution is to not connect the theater with metal ducts. Instead use flexible Acoustical Ducts. or duct board. Include a few 90 degree bends so that the sound carrying capacity of the duct is reduced.

see the two products on the right of this chart:

http://www.flexmasterusa.com/pg/fdpp.php

There are other solutions including zoning the theater, or installing a totally separate HVAC for the basement or theater.
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post #19 of 59 Old 05-02-2008, 08:01 AM
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Hi Joe,

Your HT is looking SWEET! What did you use to draw your illustration?

Also... How soon are you getting the ductwork completed. I'm looking forward to seeing some pics of that, and hearing your thoughts on it.

John

The Soundproofing Company
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post #20 of 59 Old 05-02-2008, 08:35 AM
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Hey Joe, looking really good. I have a wall I'm going to have to put parallel with my structural beam as well and I'm trying to figure out how you fastened the wall. I see a wood block (I think) and that is bolted to the beam? Why not bolt wall to the beam? Is this for isolation? I'm also going to spend the effort of isolating my room as well.

Thanks!
Tom
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post #21 of 59 Old 05-02-2008, 09:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Tom,

The block was just for spacing, I left it there by accident. I am actually am using RSIC-DC04 sound Isolation clips every 36 inches under the I-beam. The clips prevent the mechanical sound transfer in addition to the staggered stud wall to the surrounding rooms and to the above spaces.

John,

I used the amazingly free google sketchup.
The ductwork and rough plumbing for my bar/ bathroom is being done today/tomorrow. I decided to stick with the metal duct, using the flex-duct for all the supply tuns runs that move thorught the room because of availablity and cost.

DC thanks for the info, I am only moving the ducts to the side that were already on one side, all the transisitons will be switched to flex above the theatre, thanks for the info.
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post #22 of 59 Old 05-02-2008, 12:59 PM
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Joe,
Did you make your door opening@ 78"? I wasn't sure if I read that correctly. I am to that point today, and am trying to figure out how to frame the door off a staggered stud 2x6 like you have.

John

In terms of being late or not starting at all, then it's never too late.

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post #23 of 59 Old 05-02-2008, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmktopgun View Post

I am to that point today, and am trying to figure out how to frame the door off a staggered stud 2x6 like you have.

Hi John,

The doorway has to perform 2 functions. Provide a nail base for the door jamb and also as a nailer for the drywall.

Here's a pic from Joe's room. (courtesy BigJoeMoose Gallery Link 14) Note how he split the end 2x4 stud and separated them. This gives a great support for the jamb as well as a place to secure the edges of the drywall. Another way to accomplish this is to use two x 2x4 studs and orient them the opposite way of the other studs.

Note: The drywallers should bring the drywall all the way to the door jamb within ¼ or so. Then caulk the drywall to the jamb.Often the drywall hangers leave a big gap near the jamb, which is normally fine since you cover the gap with door trim. In this case we want no gap.

John

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post #24 of 59 Old 05-02-2008, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Hile View Post

Hi John,

The doorway has to perform 2 functions. Provide a nail base for the door jamb and also as a nailer for the drywall.

Here's a pic from Joe's room. (courtesy BigJoeMoose Gallery Link 14) Note how he split the end 2x4 stud and separated them. This gives a great support for the jamb as well as a place to secure the edges of the drywall. Another way to accomplish this is to use two x 2x4 studs and orient them the opposite way of the other studs.

Note: The drywallers should bring the drywall all the way to the door jamb within ¼ or so. Then caulk the drywall to the jamb.Often the drywall hangers leave a big gap near the jamb, which is normally fine since you cover the gap with door trim. In this case we want no gap.

Exactly what I needed, thanks.

John

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post #25 of 59 Old 05-02-2008, 04:23 PM - Thread Starter
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jmpktopgun,

I also wanted to mention that my door was 78" framed because I had to fit under the IBeam-giving me a 76" door. That beam made me have to get a custom fit door.
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post #26 of 59 Old 05-02-2008, 05:18 PM - Thread Starter
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The soffits are split, guys did a great job, anybody in South East Michigan needs some ductwork, these are the guys, good work, fast and cheap.

Here is the first part, notice all of the inside drops and rolls are also gone, now each soffit will be 30 inches, instead of the 60 inch beast from before, room looks much better. This is a purchase I am glad I made, I would have always wished I would have moved those stupid ducts.

if you look at the old pics you will see what moved, in addition it adds a ton of extra screen space for me.




Another pic of a single soffit, you can see where they capped and ran it to the other side.



I still have to go and run the flexduct in place of the current runs for the rest of the house in the ceiling, but that is a quick job now that the soffits are split.

Feel free to do a silent cheer for me and my victory over my soffits. On another note, I got my Check from the Gov today, spent it faster then it came in.
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post #27 of 59 Old 05-03-2008, 08:30 AM
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I have the exact same problem in my basement (builders!). I'm curious what your final cost for the ductwork ended up at. Mind sharing?

BTW - I subscribed after your first post because I have an almost identical room...

The Zen Garden HT - Move Along...There is Nothing To See Here.
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post #28 of 59 Old 05-03-2008, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Audixium,

I think a ton of people with newer homes all have this issue. If the builder didnt make the ceilings 9 foot, then you will have to deal with the duct work,

The price was 450, basically all labor, because the thermopan and a 4 foot duct extension was the only extra parts that were needed.

I also had them do a few other things, they put in a water powered back-up sump pump and cracked my basment for a new bathroom.

About 1400 for the sump and basment rough in.
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post #29 of 59 Old 05-03-2008, 01:10 PM
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Thanks - looks like I'll be doing the same thing. I was fretting over how the 6 foot wide soffits would look.

The Zen Garden HT - Move Along...There is Nothing To See Here.
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post #30 of 59 Old 05-05-2008, 11:03 AM
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Looking good! I had to do something similar in my HT as well. I still ended up with an awkward soffit in the back corner of my room, but with 30" soffits on both sides after that. I think you'll like the look.

-Ryan
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