How to extend door jambs & window frames? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 05-21-2008, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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The entrance to my theater is through a wall with 2x6 framing. When I add RSIC and DD, the dimenison will increase approx 2.5". I haven't located any prehung doors with jambs that are that wide without paying mucho dolares for custom work.
1. Is there a relatively easy way to modify door jambs that were intended for 6" walls?
2. Also, what is the best method for extending framing around windows? My existing framing only extends 1/2" from the studs.
3. Should the door jamb and window framing be extended beyond the drywall to account for acoustical treatment?

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post #2 of 25 Old 05-21-2008, 07:29 PM
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For the door you attach extensions using a slight reveal. You can do the same for the windows or if possible you rip out the existing window framing and replace with wider pieces. Yes, plan for the width of wall treatments.



http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/f...or/custom.html

Here is a pic of using furring strips to build out the Jamb for a 1 inch wall treatment in my basement.

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post #3 of 25 Old 05-21-2008, 07:31 PM
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This place sells some: http://www.enduraproducts.com/

Also you might want to use a biscuit joiner if you plan to install your own extensions.

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post #4 of 25 Old 05-21-2008, 07:50 PM
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Whatever you do don't try to line up the extensions so that the two surfaces look flush unless you use the biscuit joiners and glue the joint. Otherwise the joint will open over time. Use a slight reveal (set back).
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post #5 of 25 Old 05-21-2008, 08:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the links and pics. I'm still a lttle confused on the door jambs though. A few years ago I replaced all the interior doors in my old house with prehung doors, and from what I recall, the inside and outside halves of the door jambs joined together similar to tongue and groove, meeting in the middle of the jamb. I guess I'll have to remove the trim molding and extend the jamb, then reattach the molding. Are exterior doors different? Also, with the RSIC, hat channel, DD and aoustical treatment, the jambs will need to be extended nearly 3-4". Will it be okay to have the hinges receesed that far? Or should I extend the opposite side of the jamb (or both)?
Big- it looks like your extensions are slightly narrower then the existing jamb to allow for the stiker plate. Good idea- it looks great.
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post #6 of 25 Old 05-22-2008, 05:35 AM
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With double wall, double drywall, acoustic treatments, etc. my wall came to 11.25" thick. I kept the door mounted to one side of the thick jamb rather than putting it in the middle.

MY door and jamb were both custom pieces from bairdbrothers.com; their price for a 11.25" jamb was $143.25 in maple and $78.79 if I went with poplar. I didn't think that was unreasonable.

Also, if you want to avoid extensions, door jambs aren't that difficult to make yourself. If you ahve a router, there are easy to use jigs for the hinges. Or, for a singel door you can just invest 30 minutes with a chisel.
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post #7 of 25 Old 05-22-2008, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blast67 View Post

Big- it looks like your extensions are slightly narrower then the existing jamb to allow for the stiker plate. Good idea- it looks great.

Actually what you see is a REVEAL that I was mentioning earlier. It also helps make room for the hinges on the other side.

My furring strips that I used there I ripped from finger joined pine exterior trim boards. Good and tight and takes the paint well.

The strips were actually THICKER than the jamb. About 1 1/4 x 1 inch strips.

When you were talking about your other doors what your were describing are SPLIT JAMB pre-hung doors. They install very fast. Your exterior door in question will probably not have been constructed that way.

If you want to swing your door wide open you really need to do all your extending on the non-hinge side.
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post #8 of 25 Old 05-22-2008, 07:44 AM
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I ended up building my own jambs. Its not that hard. I used 3/4" Cherry for the jamb (10.5" wide) and 1/2" Cherry (2.5" wide) for the door stop. The hinges are easy to mill out. You can also see the joint between the 2 pieces that make up the jamb - I used biscuits/planer to join the pieces, but you could also use a wider door stop to cover the joint between 2 separate pieces of jamb.

Here are some pictures that show what I mean:





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post #9 of 25 Old 05-22-2008, 08:17 AM
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WOW! That's really fine work!

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post #10 of 25 Old 05-22-2008, 08:20 AM
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My bathroom door will open in.

Which side of the wall should I mount the door flush with the wall? I'm thinking I would want to install the door from the bathroom side so that it is flush with the insde wall of the bathroom and extend the jam on the side will be the hallway side.

If it makes any difference, since it's the batroom, I'm thinking (from the inside of the bathroom) 1/2 DW - 2X4 stud wall - 5/8DW+GG+5/8DW.

So do I do the extension on the DDW+GG side of the wall?

Just trying to plan ahead.


For a change.

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post #11 of 25 Old 05-22-2008, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

My bathroom door will open in.

Which side of the wall should I mount the door flush with the wall? I'm thinking I would want to install the door from the bathroom side so that it is flush with the insde wall of the bathroom and extend the jam on the side will be the hallway side.

Correct. A door is typically mounted flush to the direction it opens. If the door opens into the room, then it should be mounted flush with the inside wall of the room. In my case, my doors open out, so they are flush with the outside wall.

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post #12 of 25 Old 05-22-2008, 08:24 AM
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That sounds good, Tom. Are you trying to quiet the bathroom sounds? Generally the door seals are the answer, not GG and DW

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post #13 of 25 Old 05-22-2008, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

That sounds good, Tom. Are you trying to quiet the bathroom sounds? Generally the door seals are the answer, not GG and DW

The only thing you need to be careful of if you "seal" the bathroom is what your local code says re: undercutting doors in rooms without HVAC. In some locales (including mine) you need to have a certain gap unless you have a fresh air supply in the room. And if you have a significant gap at the bottom of the door, that is going to compromise your efforts.

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post #14 of 25 Old 05-22-2008, 10:38 AM
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Ted -

Not necesarily trying to isolate the bathroom, but, as I was framing, I decoupled ALL the walls. Figured as long as I'm at it, I might well do it all. I figured it can't hurt (more mass, less sound through the rest of the house). All plumbing is on the far side of the bathroom (through storage area) and I bought and roughed-in a super-quiet exhaust fan. Still...flushing noises can be loud.

You can see in the floorplan the location of the bathroom relative to the theater area (sorry I have to upload this way ... work restrictions ... measurements are approximate and the funny looking circles are my recessed lights). Would it NOT be necessary to DD+GG that wall, or for that matter, the side wall facing the stairs? As far behind as I am, any savings in time and effort would be welcome!
LL

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post #15 of 25 Old 05-22-2008, 01:21 PM
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You might consider not using GG on that wall. I'm not seeing the value of doing it. If you can acomodate seals (bearing in mind the sage advice from Strange) that would keep the sound in as you'd like.

The stair walls I assume you mean that wall directly opposite the closets? Again, I'm not seeing the value assuming there's a door in that opening to the theater?

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post #16 of 25 Old 05-22-2008, 08:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Kevin - Thanks for the link. Those prices aren't too bad. I had checked out their site before but never inquired about custom jambs. I'll definitely keep them in mind. Did you buy one of their doors also?

Big- Yes all my interior prehungs I installed were split-jamb. I guess I just assumed all prehungs were like that and didn't see any easy way of extending them.

Craig - Wonderful work. After seeing that I am now debating making my own. While buying some may be easier, there's nothing like building something yourself and having it look just as good if not better than premade. --Than again, there's nothing worse than building a pile of crap. I just hope mine doesn't stink.

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post #17 of 25 Old 05-23-2008, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blast67 View Post

Kevin - Thanks for the link. Those prices aren't too bad. I had checked out their site before but never inquired about custom jambs. I'll definitely keep them in mind. Did you buy one of their doors also?

I did buy a door as well - they were abotu the only place I could find a 1 3/4" solid door. To save some cash, I went with a maple-veneer door instead of solid maple. It looks just as good, but was a few hundred dollars cheaper.

I debated making my own, but pricing lumber from the same source, it would have cost me $136 for 17 feet fo 11.5" lumber, or $118 if I got thinner boards and joined them. Paying an extra $7 - $25 to have then do the work of making the jamb as well as mortising the hinges and strike plate seemed like a good deal.
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post #18 of 25 Old 05-23-2008, 07:05 AM
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Ted -

Quote:


The stair walls I assume you mean that wall directly opposite the closets? Again, I'm not seeing the value assuming there's a door in that opening to the theater?

That is the wall I was referring to. No door, will be open. Not a dedicated room. Just trying to do everything I can behind the walls so that I don't later start WISHING I had done something. At least I'll know I've done everything I can.

Thanks for your input!

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post #19 of 25 Old 05-23-2008, 07:11 AM
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Stairwells are a particular problem. They are uniquely rigidly connected to the floor joists and share studs with the first floor. They are large surfaces.

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post #20 of 25 Old 05-23-2008, 07:20 AM
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Understood. I actually plan to use some Integrity Gasket (picked up some leftover from another member) on that stair wall to add at least some level decoupling.

Tom

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post #21 of 25 Old 05-23-2008, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

I actually plan to use some Integrity Gasket on that stair wall to add at least some level decoupling.

That's a product that is really inexpensive, and it does a little something. If you think about it, though. The foam is pretty crushed and there are screws everywhere. So the amount of actual decoupling is really quite small. However it's inexpensive so what the heck.

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post #22 of 25 Old 05-23-2008, 07:53 AM
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That, and the fact that the OTHER side of stairs is concrete, as is the wall along the right side of the theater area. That will be a storage area underneath the stairs and it will be drywalled under there (per new code) and insulated. The wall under the stairs along the concrete wall is decoupled. The wall that will NOT be decoupled is the one on the side facing the closets. And the wife wants to open up that wall comming down the stairs. Not sure if I really want to do that or not. One can only hope for decent results....

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post #23 of 25 Old 05-28-2008, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

For the door you attach extensions using a slight reveal. You can do the same for the windows or if possible you rip out the existing window framing and replace with wider pieces. Yes, plan for the width of wall treatments.





Here is a pic of using furring strips to build out the Jamb for a 1 inch wall treatment in my basement.


Hey big do you have a pic of the hinge side?

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #24 of 25 Old 05-28-2008, 03:02 PM
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Hey big do you have a pic of the hinge side?

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post #25 of 25 Old 05-29-2008, 10:00 AM
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Thanks that looks great....I am going to do it this way, should save some time as I can do it with out ripping the door out

For once procrastination has paid off


EDIT: Visit my build thread for some pics on how I did this.

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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