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post #1 of 81 Old 06-07-2008, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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OK - enough lurking already...June 7, 2008 marks the start of my new build. There have been two before - HT1.0 was a complete demo and build of a basement in Michigan. HT2.0 was settling for a simple projector, screen, audio setup in another Michigan home and then Tennessee. Yes, I counted HT2.0 only once for those setups as they really are not worthy of a singular entry. My existing/prior gear has served many audiences well, but I cannot wait to upgrade everything, especially my very old, but still enjoyable, Sony 400Q LCD projector (not too many of those around now!!!)
Anyway, 3.0 broke ground today. The "bones" for this HT exist within what used to be the "bonus room", aka kids' playroom (sorry kids! - don't worry, we gave them another room to go crazy in). See the pics below. Note the exquisite "Pecan" paneling, textured ceiling, and old school square lights.


It felt REALLY good to tear all of that out today.
So, here's the post-demo result, down to the studs:
View from door into room (screen wall going in front of the windows)

Opposite view towards door (back of theater)

The room itself is 19.5 feet long by just under 14 feet wide. Unlike the prior major build I will be going the double drywall route and incorporating a lot of ideas of managed to pick up from many of you on AVS forum (thanks!).
I'll start on all the wiring tomorrow. The first item of business is to swap all the boxes out with adjustable boxes to account for the increased drywall thickness, then the rest of the wiring with new recessed fixtures and AV. A few questions I would REALLY appreciate feedback on:
1) Regarding conduit, has anyone run it for any reason other than future proofing video signal feeds? i.e., should I bother running it alongside the rest of the speaker runs, etc?
2)For those of you who dealt with a remodel situation or are construction-smart, does it make any difference with respect to just pushing (compressing) the existing insulation back a bit versus removing it and replacing it for the conduit runs, wiring, etc?
3)I'd love to hear some of you chime in on whether your experience was that double drywall with green glue was sufficient for the ceiling or if additional measures in between the joists (aside from the existing insulation) are warranted/worth the effort. Here's what I'm dealing with (the silver portion is part of a return).

4)Regarding the HVAC return - mine goes up the wall, then across the ceiling and into the attic. Anyone have suggesting for sound proofing that portion of the wall outside of double drywall and green glue on the outer wall portion? Obviously, I can't put insulation there. It's not an outside wall, so it's of particular concern. Here's a pic of the wall to ceiling return portion of the wall.


More to come soon - thank to all of you who have taken the time to post your experience! I would be flailing about in the dark without all of this combined/shared knowledge.

Mark
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post #2 of 81 Old 08-31-2008, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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OK - in between work, etc., I neglected to post progress in a bit. Time for some updates.
Wiring is completed. The room is wired for 7.1 sound, and I ran the usual assortment of cables (HDMI and cat6 for "future proofing"). Here's the HDMI and cat6 running over to the projector mount. I did not run condit...why, you ask? Well, if something were to fail, I am fortunate that I have access to the wall top plates from the attic above, and it would be only a bit time consuming to run a new cable drop through there if necessary in the future. Don't worry...there's a power outlet just outside of this photo.

One good thing is that my old chief RPA ceiling attachment works great in conjunction with RSIC/hat channel (just shallow enough).
The only real "different thing I did with respect to wiring is that I included a separate HDMI and digital optical run through the wall for placement in one of the rear columns. This is for connecting to a variety of things easily - my macbook, someone else's laptop, easy ipod connection (there's a cool adaptor for this to digital optical), etc.

Here's the mess of wires going to were the grafik eye will be mounted close to the theater entrance. They feed 4 zones: soffit cans, column sconces, pendant cans (to accent screen), and rope lighting. I literally called a dozen electrical supply houses Thursday and Friday, but not one had the Raco 698 box. I am ordering one online. The good news is, my rough electrical inspection passed Friday - important milestone in my book.

Speaking of wiring...I found this useful rather than using blocks or spacers to achieve the appropriate depth for low voltage boxes. It's kind of rough looking, but basically I used some extra adjustable boxes and just cut holes in them. When dealing with rsic-v, hat channel, and double 5/8" drywall, the combination of the Carlon adjustable boxes for high or low voltage plus box extenders from parts express give the right depth. This one has a rather large hole as it has both the majority of LV cables coming through it. I am electing to use the open wall ports from monoprice, so my plan is to just caulk the daylights out of the interior once everything is done.

Another thing I did, I think based on something Cathan had said in another thread, is to take LOTS of photos of all the cable locations. Where possible, I also marked the location dimensions on the drywall so the photo "record" is easy should I need to get at something later.

More to come in the next post...

Mark
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post #3 of 81 Old 08-31-2008, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I got rid of the pesky wall HVAC return. Both my existing HVAC feeds/registers are floor level, so the new return will be located in the soffit. Flex duct was used for the run across the ceiling rather than the existing open chamber that would potentially be an acoustic and/or sound isolation issue.

Drywall and hat channel delivered on Friday. I can't stress enough that using a drywall supplier is the way to go...about 50 cents more per sheet than the big box stores, but they hand delivered and stacked the sheets in the room. 5/8" drywall is heavy enough...the 12 foot long bundles of two are ridiculous.


The RSIC-V clips showed up as well. A couple things I've learned with regard to RSIC clip installation.
1) use a good wood screw. Some people I know suggested using drywall screws. Wood screws have far better shear strength. Maybe it's overkill, but that gives me more comfort knowing there's going to be 1 1/4" of sheetrock hanging above my head.
2) Speaking of screws, get wood screws with a square or star drive head. Far superior to "philips" head screws with respect to potential stripping, etc.
2) If you are going to go with RSIC, plan your clips layout first, even before you start wiring, etc. I actually was LUCKY that the layout did not conflict with any of the boxes I installed for the projector or its mount. Not a huge deal, as you can always work around this, but it just makes life simple.
3) If you are going to use RSIC clips, don't run cables too close to the floor through your wall studs. The first row of RSIC-V clips should be close to the floor. For some corners, you may have to add additional blocks such as this if you want to keep the row locations constant height:

4) Doing a ceiling RSIC installation on your own is a pain, unless you make some spacer boards (furring strips are lightweight) to use as your standard offset between clips, etc. or a laser level of some kind. It's very difficult to man the tape measure on your own and get all these clips lined up perfectly. Use spacer boards cut to the various gaps in your plan, and use the hat channel itself for straight line markings (or a chalk line, if you insulation does not bow slightly below the level of your joists).
Overall, RSIC clip installation, in my opinion, is pretty time consuming if you only have one set of hands on the ceiling side. The walls are very easy. I decided to go the full RSIC/DD/GG route as many have commented on their satisfaction with that approach.

Mark
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post #4 of 81 Old 08-31-2008, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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OK - so I am chugging along at a good clip Saturday, and I notice a couple times that when I walk out of the theater room into our kitchen, my shoes squeak. About the third time, I look down and notice some moisture. My first thoughts are 1)the dog had an accident (has not happened in about 5 years) or 2)more likely my youngest child spilled something. So I go back in the room and yes, the carpet is wet. Here's where things get really bad...as I am using a towel to soak up the moisture, I start to notice that this is a pretty big area...too big for just a pet accident or spilled glass of water. It's worse by the back wall of the theater. I pull back the insulation, and sure enough the bottom of the wall is wet. I could not find any leaks in the plumbing at first, so I sat there thinking that some unknown event was going on in the foundation. Well, fortunately, it was an extremely small failure of a copper supply elbow. It probably dripped at a rate of once every 2-3 minutes. Here's the criminal:

Given that I was trying to get the ceiling RSIC clips in and some other things as some friends offered to help me today (Sunday), I caved in to my wife's "suggestion" and called a plumber versus grabbing the torch, etc. It turned out to be a good decision, as even the pro wrestled with getting the entire assembly leak-free several times. Problem solved:

It looks a bit sloppy, but it's solid. I dried everything up, hit it all with a bleach mixture again, then let it dry out again. I'll keep the fan on it through tonight just to be thorough before installing new insulation. When the situation first happened, I lost count of the expletives I used. However, it really is for the best...can you imagine how cranked I would have been if that thing would have started leaking AFTER the RSIC/DD/GG was installed and new carpet in? I hate to even think about that...

Anyway, I managed to get the RSIC-V and hat channel mounted on the ceiling, some final ceiling cable adjustments, and some drywall installed on the ceiling this afternoon. It helps to have a couple linemen assisting you...no stepladders required. They did appreciate the drywall jack though!

The plan for labor day is to finish the first layer of drywall on the ceiling, and complete the RSIC and hat channel on 3 of the 4 walls. Perhaps I'll also finish insulating the only non-insulated wall as well.

Mark
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post #5 of 81 Old 09-01-2008, 08:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Limited progress today...finished the first layer of 5/8 drywall on the ceiling. Is anyone else beat up after working on their build this weekend? Wow.

BTW, yes, some of those screws were off a bit and corrected after the photo was taken. I thought it might be helpful to snap chalk lines to highlight the hat channel locations before all second layers go up.

Mark
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post #6 of 81 Old 10-06-2008, 10:34 AM
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Hi Mark,

Great job!

Any new progress?

John

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post #7 of 81 Old 10-06-2008, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Hile View Post

Hi Mark,

Great job!

Any new progress?


X2, curious to see how everything is coming along!

Cheers,
JJ

Number of trips to the Hardware Store: Can't count that high!

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post #8 of 81 Old 10-06-2008, 05:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys...have made some more progress - I'll post some new pics soon. To make a long story short, there were some fundamental issues with parts of the existing construction that needed to be addressed from a soundproofing perspective. You'll see what I mean when I have some time to post some update pics...thanks again for checking up on me - it's moving along! I HOPE to be nearly finished by Thanksgiving (now I've certainly jinx'd myself!).

Mark
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post #9 of 81 Old 11-30-2008, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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OK - Yes, even talking about getting this close to done by Thanksgiving was indeed a curse of sorts. Several of my friends, and a few fellow AVS'ers have asked for updates, so here you go!
I mentioned some inherent soundproofing issues with the room. There were several things I noticed (it's a remodel) and decided to address. First, the lower half of the wall in the opposite room was constructed of wainscot paneling only. Given that STC values for RSIC/DD/green glue are based on at least drywall on both sides, I added 5/8 drywall to the inner wall cavity on top of this wainscot panel and caulked everything. This was a large area...simple to fix but ate up some time.
Additionally, there was an open area in the corner of the room that had my kitchen cabinets on the other side.

I blocked that off with drywall and caulked it as well. Don't worry...the photo does not show the finished product with all of the openings closed up.

My old cordless drill crapped out on me...an early cordless Makita that lasted many years. I did some research and replaced it with this new 18V lithium ion Makita:

This new drill is awesome and I can't recommend it enough...the batteries charge in only 15 minutes; have excellent life; and the overall weight of the unit is nice.
I've also had some other new items arrive:
Green glue is now in the house - not looking forward to that mess, but excited about getting all the drywall done.

The Grafik Eye arrived and the Raco masonry box is now mounted and ready for business.

I've made some more progress after some stalls...I finished 99% of the insulation.
I ran out of RSIC clips and had to order more. I also decided to add another row of RSIC and hat channel on the walls to assist with structural support of the soffit when it goes in after the double drywall walls are complete. I picked up more channel but did not pay attention when the guy loaded it. I had to return it as it was not exactly what I had ordered before (see Ted White's thread on all hat channel not being equal!)!
The biggest slowdown on all of this progress has been a lack of free weekends and the fact that I have been working even crazier hours since my old boss left my company. Therefore, I have decided to outsource much of the remaining major tasks (i.e., drywall installation) in order to keep things moving. A few more small items to finish before my contractor hits it before end of year.
I have all the details for the build sketched out and I'll post more info when I have a chance. The only big thing I am still wrestling with is whether to do a riser and Berklines for my second row or to do a counter and bar stools. I don't have enough room to do three rows.
More to come...

Mark
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post #10 of 81 Old 12-27-2008, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally, some solid progress to report. I've hired a contractor to work alongside me for most of the rest of the build. It helps to have a second set of hands, especially when the guy is super fast and solid with all the drywall measurements. Yesterday afternoon and today, I finished bumping out the HVAC supplies to accommodate the RSIC/Channel/5/8" DD thickness (yeah, there will be green glue in there too!). We also finished the first layer of drywall this afternoon. My contractor is very interested in whether all the extra efforts yield as much soundproofing as we're hoping - we'll see! Here's some new progress pics for the fellas, local and in MI...
Pic shot from the entrance (the room is longer than the pic looks):


Pic from the front/screenwall end of the theater:


Side wall:

That's it for now...I'm going to seal/caulk all the gaps tomorrow and take care of some more supplies I need for the soffit build. I also need to pick up can lights and insulation for the soffit.
Next steps are to put the green glue and layer 2 of 5/8 drywall on the ceiling Monday afternoon, then do the same for the walls on Tuesday.

Mark
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post #11 of 81 Old 12-30-2008, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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We finished the second layer on the ceiling last night. I was pleasantly surprised as to how easy the Green Glue comes out of the tube versus all the grip workouts one experiences using acoustical caulk.
Green glue going on another sheet of 5/8" drywall

I decided to go with the 2 tubes/4X8 sheet amount. I was also surprised at how little mess we made after hearing so many stories and seeing the aftermath in many builds. In reality, we probably just put it on too slowly!
Here's the often recommended USG acoustical caulk...

I've spent a fair amount of time - and more caulk than expected (buy more than you think you'll use, you will probably need it!) - sealing every crevice/crack/seam...basically treating the room as though it's an aquarium before the second layer of 5/8" drywall goes up. For example, all of the gaps where the drywall sits just above the floor.
.
Having some of the tubular foam backer for caulking on hand is useful as it's cheaper/easier to use on any larger gaps before caulking. Some of my friends think I'm a bit obsessive on this whole caulking/sealing part, especially with the second layer of drywall going in! I keep telling them to think of sound penetrating gaps like water leaking in an aquarium...the proof will be in the end result. I smiled yesterday when my wife mentioned that she could not hear us working in the room from just above - this was after the second row on the ceiling went up. I can sense the difference already as previously I would hear the kids jumping around and playing in the room above the theater, but it's just not noticeable now. I'm sure just having that mass there is helping now. I still need to run some "tests" aka asking the kids to have a dance party in their room, or cranking some loud music in the room to see the difference, as the result of doing that (the music) before the build was what prompted me to go with the RSIC/DD/GG route.
Progress was slow today, other than caulking, cleanup, and the search for OC703 or JM Linacoustic locally...the extra set of hands I have working with me had issues on another job, so we're doing the walls tomorrow.
I also had the chance to finally sit in various Berklines today. I'm still torn between those or other options, and most importantly whether I should go with four seats across or three. I could do four if I go with the 45004's, but three might make the room seem less "crowded." I would like to maximize seating for having people over though...
I'll have a solid 13' width to work with, so 3' to spare after a 120" row of four Berk's. I am doing two rows (back on a riser, of course).
A couple questions:
Has anyone else wrestled with this in a similar narrow theater? What did you do, and would you change your decision now after using the seats for some time?

Mark
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post #12 of 81 Old 01-02-2009, 05:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished the remainder of the walls Thursday, so this thing is fully sheetrocked other than the soffit at this point. Today, we went to work on the soffit. My soffit serves three purposes: 1) primarily sound isolation for the can lights I wanted in the theater and part of the HVAC return, 2) I actually really like the look of a soffit in a HT, especially with added crown and rope lighting for effect, and 3) of course it future proofs the whole build quite a bit should I ever need to run new cables, etc.
Here's where the advice from all the experienced people on the forum really rings true - plan, plan, and plan some more before you do anything. Well, I missed one thing in my RSIC/DD/GG build prep. After I finished drywalling the ceiling, I scratched my head a bit about how to attach the soffit to it. Fortunately, the walls were easily addressed - I ran a separate run of RSIC and hat channel around the entire perimeter solely for the purpose of anchoring the soffit's wall framing. I'm using 20G metal studs and 3/8" drywall to keep things lightweight, however, after putting up the wall and ceiling studs today, I am NOT concerned about weight any longer. I probably over-engineered it a bit - my buddy referred to it as "soffitsaurus", but I'll sleep well at night!
Here's the wall - we measured 9" down from the ceiling (will accommodate most can light designs + some wiggle room) at each end, snapped a chalk line, and checked it again for level.

Then, after applying globs of Liquid Nails construction adhesive for good measure,

we used self tapping drywall screws to attach the metal stud to the wall

Repeat, and the bottom row was complete.

Now, to deal with the ceiling as the RSIC was parallel, and not in line for connecting, we employed more extreme measures.
First, we pre-drilled all the metal studs with 1/4" holes.
Next, we did another chalk line 12" from each wall. Then, again we utilized Liquid Nails on each stud. However, this time, we lined the studs up to the chalk line, drilled separate 1" deep holes in the drywall where each stud hole was located, and then used a drywall anchor. We augmented the pan head screws going into each anchor with a fender washer. The result is rock solid...I'm sure it will more than hold the weight of the soffit, and it keeps my decoupling efforts intact.



A few of us were discussing this separately yesterday, so hopefully this would be suitable for you guys too.
Tomorrow, the plan is to continue framing out the front part of the soffit, and to start drywalling it too.

Mark
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post #13 of 81 Old 01-03-2009, 07:32 PM - Thread Starter
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OK - so if you are paying attention at this point (especially in MI), and you know anything about metal stud construction (unlike me), you probably noticed that I used the WRONG wall and ceiling members despite the advice of my local supply house! Apparently, there's smooth, non-lipped track available that serves as a better mate to the ones I used. That would have been real nice to know when I bought the studs and asked a ton of questions. Ugghhhh....
Well, the stuff we put up is NOT going to come down, and fortunately it appears that we'll still be easily put a few cross-members in anyway. It's a big relief to know it will still work structurally. I call this a learning experience, and it's a lucky outcome. I'll post pics of the rest of the soffit build ASAP.

Mark
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post #14 of 81 Old 01-04-2009, 08:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quick update on progress today...shifted gears from the soffit and finished the bump outs on the windows and door frame to accommodate the new wall thickness (RSIC/DD/GG). The guy who is working with me made this job so slick. I'll post some pics later, but basically it involved ripping some 1X boards to the right width, creating counter sink holes halfway through the width of the board, and securing the new board to the existing boards with cabinet screws. It's tight! A little bit of wood filler and sanding before we paint and the frames will look like one piece construction.
We cut back the sheetrock so the gaps were very tight before installing the boards. Even so, one of the most important parts of my build is soundproofing given the room's location (below the kids and next to the kitchen). I used the latex Dap Tex foam in the cracks and went a little crazy, but I'm hoping it helps avoid weak spots. I emptied two cans into each window trim space and another three around the door! Of course I'll caulk over any remaining gaps with the regular acoustic caulk once the latex foam cures.
More importantly, we also re-did the door hinges today - now the door opens outward from the entrance of the theater versus opening into the theater and taking up space there.
Things will slow down big time this week until Saturday - I'm sure that applies to a lot of us.

Mark
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post #15 of 81 Old 01-11-2009, 06:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished the soffit over the weekend. Luckily, I was able to overcome use of the metal studs only versus the track that the supply house should have pointed me to! I braced the remaining metal studs, and beefed up the front of the soffit with 1/4" plywood - the intent was to put something in very lightweight that would offer structural stability and a good base for when I nail the crown in for the rope light tray. Yes, 1/4" is not much, but with 3/8" drywall on top of it, it should be just fine with the right finish nails.

Next step this week is to build my columns for the sconces.
then, we're ready to mud and tape. Also, my shipment of can lights should arrive so with any luck I'll be able to have my final inspection for electric within the next week or so - the important thing is that it will be within the 6 months time window for sure!
I'm leaning towards changing my screen wall plans a bit. I think it might be best if I do an AT screen and place all the gear on one side of it behind a GOM covered panel/door I can open. I don't have the luxury of a closet for equipment, and I was just planning to put the gear under a regular screen, but in doing the math again I could fit everything to the left of the screen IF I place the L/C/R's behind it.

Mark
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post #16 of 81 Old 01-25-2009, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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I've been busy working on the theater, so few updates! I had question on the jamb extensions with RSIC and 5/8" DD, so here are a couple pics. They're not the finished ones, but at least it shows how they went together.
This is a front view - we recessed the 1X's screw holes to allow greater penetration of the cabinet screws we used to secure the extensions to the existing jambs.

Here's the side view from within the window - the wood filler has not been sanded yet and I'm sure it will take 2-3 sanded coats before it's ready for paint and looking like one monolithic piece.

The next thing we built were the columns. I was looking for something to give the room a bit more character, but also keep the width loss low. In order to do this simply, we ripped 2X4's in half, then attached the ripped portions to the wall via fine thread drywall screws just long enough to catch the hat channel. Then, we attached standard 2X4's to the ripped ones with wood screws from the sides.

Insulation was added and wiring positioned, then we covered with 3/8" drywall.

Mudding and taping continued!

Due to some availability on my part and my electrician's, and had them come in prior to all the mudding/sanding being finished...not a huge deal, and it's actually nice to have some alternative light aside from the halogen work light...let there be light! The only lights not installed at the moment are the sconces on the pillars - you can see the rough boxes and wires in the pic.

The Grafik Eye works! Like I said, still more mud and sanding to go...

Mark
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post #17 of 81 Old 01-25-2009, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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The guy I hired to work along with me on the project is more of a perfectionist than I am on some of the things we work on. Fortunately, drywall finishing is one of them. After finishing all the mud work, we primed everything. Then, we looked over it carefully, marked anything visible, and did some touch up work wherever we thought a scratch or bump would show up with paint.

I'm very confident that after those spots are lightly sanded and spot primed tomorrow night, the walls, ceiling and columns will be almost flawless. It's probably overkill, but I trust the guy I'm working with on it.
I also bought all the trim today. We sketched out a plan on the walls to do shadow box trim. I'm not sure how good that will show up in this pic:

Note that we have not touched up the thin bit of mud work we did on the "flaws" today in the pic.
The trim will start going in tomorrow. The plan is to use liquid nails bolstered by small finishing nails to ensure we don't short out any of the sound isolation efforts.
The other thing I did today, which is nearly complete, is address the POS 6" remodel cans I received from a certain online lighting retailer with the letters usa in their name. I did save a ton of money getting all the cans from them, and the 4" cans are perfect, but the clips in the six inch cans are terrible! No matter how much I push up on the clip mechanism, they just don't snug up to the ceiling (soffit). My electrician struggled with them too. We gave up, and I've decided to use construction adhesive to secure them in place. I'm also using it to add sheet metal screws in the cans to avoid any rattling from vibrations. I did that this evening and used spare lumber to keep each jacked firmly against the underside of the soffit. I'm sure they will be fine, but I would not recommend ordering their six inch cans.
I'll post more updates in a week or so...as many of us know, while you're posting, your HT build is just sitting there!

Mark
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post #18 of 81 Old 02-02-2009, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Last week, the trim was installed and primed. All baseboard, door, and window trim is in, as well as the chair rail and shadow box trim. I'm going for a look similar to AVS users Hed and Koach (thanks guys!). Some new pics below...resolution is a bit lower than usual since my wife took them, so hopefully they come across okay.
Shadow box trim and chair rail installed:


More priming - this time grey - before the black paint goes on.

Painting began tonight with the popular Behr "Mouse Ears" enamel.
Next steps:
Waiting on fabric samples so I can pick carpet out ASAP.
I plan to build the riser and stage this coming weekend.

Still waffling a bit on the projector - it's between the JVC RS10, Sony HW10, Panny 3000, or a used RS1. Yes - a wide range of options, but all good ones from what I've seen and read.
Also, I am 99% certain I will go with an AT screen, and 100% certain it will be a scope screen, so I'm leaning towards the Panny a bit as I don't want to add the expense of a lens.

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Nice, looks like you're well on your way. Keep the pics coming!
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post #20 of 81 Old 02-03-2009, 06:05 AM
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Looks like you are making great progress!

There are some times that I wish that I enclosed my room and sound proofed it as you did. Other times I like having the open space. Once you get the room up and running, I am curious to how well the sound proofing turned out for you.

I already have visions of Theater 2.0 drifting around in my head!

Cheers,
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post #21 of 81 Old 02-03-2009, 06:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys - 1.5 coats of black paint now up...that part should be done by tomorrow night and I'll post pictures. I'm really excited to get the riser and stage built this weekend.
I still have to address my theater door as the weak link in the sound isolation chain. I have some ideas!

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post #22 of 81 Old 02-03-2009, 06:15 PM
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Do you have any pictures between the the row of metal studs on the wall and ceiling and the drywalled soffit that shows any additional framing structure?
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post #23 of 81 Old 02-03-2009, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Big,
I wish I did...thinking back on it, I was so ticked off at my stupidity of not using the proper metal track on both the wall and ceiling that we just flew threw a fix and neglected to take pics as it went up really fast. Essentially, we attached another metal stud running horizontal across a ripped down thin piece of plywood, and attached the upper portion of the plywood to the existing stud on the ceiling - i.e., the two studs I am referring to were run parallel to each other, with the existing on the ceiling and the new one making up the lower inner edge/corner of the soffit. Then, for structural stability, we cut a bunch of metal studs into bracing pieces. We used sheet metal screws to connect the lower stud (the one I mentioned adding above) to the stud anchored to the wall. The entire construct is rock solid. The only additional overboard thing I did was to put a dab of liquid nails on each of the sheet metal screws after we fired them in, as I was (probably overly) concerned about a potential future "rattler" in the soffit.
The reason we skinned the outside (well, inside if you look at the soffit now) with thin plywood was to 1)provide some added stability in case we needed it...we really probably did not, and 2)provide something simple to nail/tack into later when I get around to securing the crown moulding for a rope light tray. I hope this helps and makes sense - let me know if you have any more questions. The whole thing would be a lot more simple and fast if one were to follow my steps above on anchoring the soffit framing, but instead use the proper stud channels on both the ceiling, wall, and a lower edge piece! Then, it would just be a matter of dropping the metal studs into that channel - not much different from my fix, but a bit smoother overall.

Mark
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post #24 of 81 Old 02-08-2009, 07:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a lot done this weekend...first, we built the stage - nearly complete, but I still need to do a few things:

Yes, in case you are wondering, this room is well above grade, plus I'm using 6 mil plastic to line the cavities before adding sand, so we did not use pressure treated wood.
The cutouts on the left side of the following pic are for HVAC.

The sand goes in...need to buy a bit more:

Funny story, but when I was hauling the cart with these bags in Lowe's today, a guy's wife made a sarcastic comment to him - "see, at least he's taking time to build a play sand pit for his kids!" I probably should have squared her away for him, but best to stay out of it.

Of course, had to extend the HVAC register a bit to have an airtight fit with the cavity we created to re-route it out the front of the stage:


I still need to finish connecting the HVAC to the stage, and I need to add a bit more sand, but the stage is nearly ready for the screen wall construction.

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We also nearly finished the riser this weekend. The only thing left is to shore up the HVAC connection and attach the last piece of 3/4" plywood.
More pics:

Those are all 2X12's...the thing is built like a tank.


Thick insulation goes in, the the 3/4" plywood starts going down:

2" overhang on all exposed edges, except we did 1.5" over the step. 2" there seemed like it could be a "foot catcher." I'm still debating on whether we should put a lip on the step itself - I welcome suggestions.

Here's a close up of the trim we did, although it's still tough to see with black paint and limited light.

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post #26 of 81 Old 02-08-2009, 08:07 PM - Thread Starter
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You know you're bumping up against original budget expectations when you re-paint white LV bulk covers rather than just buying new ones or returning the white ones.
Primer coat

1st coat of flat black...another to go

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post #27 of 81 Old 02-10-2009, 07:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Message for Ted - yeah, I just could not leave well enough alone. Even though it's probably not an issue, I still had this feeling that connecting the HVAC extension to the stage might end up transmitting some noise. I tore it up tonight and instead connected a register boot that is free floating and not touching the stage at all.
On another note, if I am lucky, I'll get the sconces up and LV plates mounted by Thursday so I can have the final electrical inspection this Friday.

Mark
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post #28 of 81 Old 02-10-2009, 07:32 PM
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Do I see an Akita lurking around in one of those pictures??
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post #29 of 81 Old 02-10-2009, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s0a6t10 View Post

Do I see an Akita lurking around in one of those pictures??

Close...Norwegian Elkhound. Let's just say he very much preferred the snow when I used to live up north.

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post #30 of 81 Old 02-11-2009, 07:35 AM
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Mark, you have a pic of this boot?

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