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post #91 of 601 Old 11-07-2008, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJO View Post


Quote:
Originally Posted by [B View Post

will1383[/b]]
...As for the hat channel offset, The metal piece is not wide enough to actually fasten both layers of drywall to it unless you toe in the screws. Make sure you use the acoustical sealant along those seams.

I had planned to toe in the screws.

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will1383[/b]]
Cracks come from the combination of a rigid area connected to a moving area. In theory, the combination of the hat channel, acoustical sealant, and green glue should make the entire system flexible enough to prevent cracks along those seams. Then, when you tape up the 2nd layer's seams, everything should be alright...

I am about to purchase my hat channel and clips, and I'll also be posting pictures and an explaination of how I did it...

The more I think about it, I should probably just space it for attaching the second layer of drywall. I.e., keep the first channel 3" from the wall, place the second one 2'-5/8" from the wall, and then space them 2' O/C from there.

Or, maybe I should wait to see how you do yours and see how it turns out!

CJ

Well, I'm still a couple of weeks away from being at that point. But I will definitely share my findings and little quirks. I have a boatload of flanking issues I need to resolve, and I still need to build my speaker enclosures. That won't take me long, but getting my hat channel and everything laid out will take a couple of hours. I'm running electric this weekend, and I'm going to dry wall the other rooms. So, I have a ton of work todo before I get to the clips and hat channel and if you are on a time schedule, you should probably just get it done.

I have yet to order my clips, GG and the other sound iso stuff. I'm going to do that Monday, after I get a chance to talk to one of the guys over at the sound proofing place (same as suggested here). I ordered 460 feet of hat channel. I need to make sure I order enough clips and lay out the walls properly...

I have one problem, though. All the clips I see are made to take hat channel no larger than 7/8" x 2 5/8". I cannot find anything that's less than 2 3/4". I was told that it's a tight fight, but that they will fit, depending on what clip you get. I know the IsoMax clips will work because they have rubber that completely encompasses the hat channel - they have no metal-to-metal contact on them. That's one issue I have to contend with.

As for my dry wall, my first layer is going to be laid horizontally, using 4x10' pieces. I'm then going to use 4x8 sheets vertically for my second layer. I already know the edges aren't going to line up properly, but I have not yet figured out exactly how I'm going to lay out the clips and hat channel. My room is basically 15x14, so it worked out for me that I could buy 12 4x10 sheets for the first layer, and 15 4x8 for the second layer. My ceiling is a bit more complicated, and works out to be a 4 4x12 and 2 2x10 sheets of drywall for each layer. I'm going to do my ceiling first.
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post #92 of 601 Old 11-08-2008, 04:40 AM
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I have a drywall lift and had planned on using 12' boards for the longitudinal direction on the ceiling. The only problem is that they are still only 4' wide (I'm pretty sure). It lays out about the same when I go from the other side.

CJ

Width shouldn't be a problem. The boards are applied perpendicular to the channel.

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post #93 of 601 Old 11-08-2008, 05:01 AM
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You could also use wider drywall sheets. I used sheets of 5/8" that were 54" x 12'. I did this because I was trying to minimize seams on the ceiling. It worked out very, very well. I was able to avoid one entire seam on the ceiling.

You won't likely find these in HD or Lowe's. Call a drywall specialty shop and see what they can do. My drywall shop was about 2% more expensive per SF than Lowe's or HD, but they delivered for free. They also carried that heavy stuff around back and into the basement for an extra $1.50 a sheet.

Check what your local drywall shop can do for you...you may be surprised by what you find.

CJ

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post #94 of 601 Old 11-08-2008, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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wow nice!! I am in the Charlotte area too and am fortunate to have a theater built in my basement!! Id love to share ideas with local theater buffs!

Don

That's great. We have had a couple of theater meets around the Charlotte area. Here's the thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=990835

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post #95 of 601 Old 11-08-2008, 12:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by will1383 View Post

I have one problem, though. All the clips I see are made to take hat channel no larger than 7/8" x 2 5/8". I cannot find anything that's less than 2 3/4". I was told that it's a tight fight, but that they will fit, depending on what clip you get. I know the IsoMax clips will work because they have rubber that completely encompasses the hat channel - they have no metal-to-metal contact on them. That's one issue I have to contend with.

Talk with Ted, but it's my understanding that 2-5/8" is the widest you can go. You should also make sure to use 25 gauge resilient channel. Search back a little, there was a thread in this forum on this topic a couple of weeks ago.

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post #96 of 601 Old 11-08-2008, 12:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

You won't likely find these in HD or Lowe's. Call a drywall specialty shop and see what they can do. My drywall shop was about 2% more expensive per SF than Lowe's or HD, but they delivered for free. They also carried that heavy stuff around back and into the basement for an extra $1.50 a sheet.

Thanks- I had planned to talk to some local drywall shops. I'm also still considering hiring the drywall out so that I don't have to bother with it!

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post #97 of 601 Old 11-08-2008, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by CJO View Post

I had planned to toe in the screws.



The more I think about it, I should probably just space it for attaching the second layer of drywall. I.e., keep the first channel 3" from the wall, place the second one 2'-5/8" from the wall, and then space them 2' O/C from there.

Or, maybe I should wait to see how you do yours and see how it turns out!

CJ

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Talk with Ted, but it's my understanding that 2-5/8" is the widest you can go. You should also make sure to use 25 gauge resilient channel. Search back a little, there was a thread in this forum on this topic a couple of weeks ago.

CJ

Yup, it's 25 gauge. Gotta make sure that baby is flexible!

As for the hat channel, if you buy the right clip, you can shoe horn a 2 3/4" into it. But I think the only clip that will work is the IsoMax clip, because that's the only clip where there is no metal contacting the hat channel, so you can basically squeeze the rubber back the extra 1/8". I know Ted doesn't sell those at all.

I tried searching, but didn't find much information on hat channel install.
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post #98 of 601 Old 11-08-2008, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's the thread I was thinking about. You can even see Ted doing pullups!
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1069295

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post #99 of 601 Old 11-08-2008, 08:24 PM
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post #100 of 601 Old 11-09-2008, 07:49 AM
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http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...nt_sound_clips

The 2 3/4" material is problematic for 2 reasons:

It will not seat well at all in a standard clip. I'm not a fan of clips that do not have a positive metal lock. I much prefer the solid connections of a Pac or Whisper clip.

The folded hem that you find on the 2 1/2" to 2 5/8" channel reinforces the edge so that there is more holding power, yet you retain the 25 ga. flexibility.

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post #101 of 601 Old 11-09-2008, 08:14 AM
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Looks like a great project - can't wait to see how it develops out!

Randy

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Check out a video of my theater here

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post #102 of 601 Old 11-09-2008, 07:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, Ted. Any thoughts on how the hat track should be installed so that the drywall edges can be screwed down (see post #77)?

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post #103 of 601 Old 11-09-2008, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are the pictures of the theater after the electric was installed.



This is the front wall, adjacent to where the screen is going to be placed.



This is the side wall. The soffit shown encloses the existing utilities. I'm also running the low-volt cables from the equipment rack to the front wall.



Here is the box for the Crestron CLS-C6. The main power comes in and is then split to the 6 lighting zones (main lighting cans, screen lighting cans, soffit rope lighting, sconces, star ceiling, and step lighting). On the left you can also see the control cable from the Crestron Pro2 processor.



This is the soffit adjacent to the equipment rack. You can see the romex for the ceiling rope light, star ceiling, and projector hanging out. I also have the 2" conduits stubbed out for the projector and star ceiling.



This is where the power is run to the projector from. I'll put a power inlet here and connect the UPS.



This is a picture of the back wall. I had to move two of the power receptacles (the ones on the right and the left) so that they would be above the riser. The power receptacles for the step lights and for the general power for the riser (power recliners and touchpanel) as well as the low-volt wires for the touchpanel are located below the top of the riser.

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post #104 of 601 Old 11-10-2008, 08:51 AM
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Nice CJ! Looks like it is coming along.

My hat channel gets delivered in about an hour. I'm gonna measure what it is and then Give Ted a call and talk to him, then order all of my sound isolation stuff.
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post #105 of 601 Old 11-10-2008, 01:55 PM
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Wahoo!

My drywall and hat channel all showed up today. The hat channel is 2 1/2" wide. Plenty for fitting in the clips.
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post #106 of 601 Old 11-11-2008, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm glad that worked out. The alternative would have sucked!

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post #107 of 601 Old 11-11-2008, 10:57 AM
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Ain't that the truth! As it turns out, I have a friend who has a machine that could curl the 1/8" off, but man that would be a whole lot more work, lol.
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post #108 of 601 Old 11-11-2008, 12:02 PM
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I realize you were probably joking, but it brings up a point that the hemmed edges of the proper Furring Channel significantly increases the strength.

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post #109 of 601 Old 11-11-2008, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
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I realize you were probably joking, but it brings up a point that the hemmed edges of the proper Furring Channel significantly increases the strength.

No, actually, I wasn't. If the channel I ended up with was indeed 2 3/4", I was going to order a single whisper clip, and get the channel sized up properly to fit in it, and then go through the process of 'crimping' or folding over the edges (1/16" on each side) in order to get it to 2 1/2". Might sound like a lot, but I want this done right.

The hat channel I do have has a very small hemmed edge, so I'm good to go.

now to make sure I take care of all my flanks.
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post #110 of 601 Old 11-11-2008, 12:15 PM
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http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...icles/flanking

This may help, or you may have this all under control

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post #111 of 601 Old 11-11-2008, 01:17 PM
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Thanks a bunch for that, Ted. I've read it 4 or 5 times now, along with some other good books and threads around here. I am due to read it again, and then go into my basement with a notebook, camera, ruler and a pen to mark up my real problem areas and decide specifically how I am going to address them. But, I'm now hijacking Dark's thread, so I'm going to have to relegate that to my own build thread out of courtesy (not to mention consistency of keeping the information, lol).

I do have some really weird problem areas, including a french drain, that I'll have to address using a combination of things, but I'm fairly confident I'll be able to make it function.
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post #112 of 601 Old 11-11-2008, 03:45 PM
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Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

We now return to our regularly scheduled thread...

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post #113 of 601 Old 11-16-2008, 12:10 AM
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CJO -

Excellent layout / organization of your thread! This makes it SOOOOOOO much easier for those of us learning from your build to reference each part at a later date. I'm bookmarking and subscribing so I have this thread whenever I get back to the USA and build a theater.
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post #114 of 601 Old 11-26-2008, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Naarmaifo for the compliment.

As far as the hat track spacing and the drywall, it looks like it will be a non-issue for me. I can place single sheets perpendicular to the hat track line and won't have to worry about parallel seems in the ceiling (using 12' sheets).

Also, it pays to shop around. I talked with Home Depot about drywall costs and the material cost for the drywall from them was around $1k. I found another local drywall company that would supply it for less than $500, and that included delivery!

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post #115 of 601 Old 11-26-2008, 12:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Didn't get a whole lot done with the theater, but I had a pretty rewarding week anyway-
  • I installed a new outside outlet for my new grill (drilling out brick sucks!)
  • Tweeter was going out of business, so I stopped by. Most of the stuff wasn't makred down much, but I was able to find a few good deals.
    • I got a pretty good deal on the Panamax power inlet (the display, complete with plexiglas). It was marked down from $300 to $50.
    • I also got a Elan speaker/doorbell for my front door. It was brass, so I have to paint it, but it was marked $10 (from around $300). I got home and, digging through my stuff, found one that I had alread purchased in oil-rubbed bronze (the color I want). Oh well.
    • I talked to them about their sound panels, but they wanted $50 each; they were about 3 feet wide and 8 feet tall, so I would need a lot of them; they weren't the right color, so I'd need to re-cover them; I also don't know if they would fit exactly; so, I decided to pass. I plan on calling them Sunday (their last day) and seeing if they would go down.
    • I got a new Crestron CEN-IDOC so that I can integrate our ipods into my whole-house audio system.
    • We also got a very nice couch for $100.
  • I also ordered and got in putty pads for my outlets and automatic door bottoms for the doors.
I hope everyone has a very nice Thanksgiving.

CJ

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post #116 of 601 Old 11-26-2008, 04:24 PM
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If that doesn't sum up a theater build.....

Achievement Unlocked

Psychotic Episode Averted

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post #117 of 601 Old 11-26-2008, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Lol

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post #118 of 601 Old 12-02-2008, 05:09 AM
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any pics of the couch

Current Projects:
IN PROGRESS (80%) - Building 3D Theater room.
IN PROGRESS (30%) - Building Lounge/Hallway Area.
IN PROGRESS (15%) - Building Home LAN (4 PCs).
ON HOLD - Building Home Gym.
ON HOLD - Building Simulation Room (Eyefinity).
ON HOLD - Building Theater room (Sim2 HT380, 2.35 14ft wide).
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post #119 of 601 Old 12-02-2008, 05:50 AM
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Glad I found this thread. Very helpful. Your layout looks very similar to what I will have. Now all I have to do is get my house built so I can start on the theater.
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post #120 of 601 Old 12-02-2008, 07:31 AM
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Nice CJ!

It's coming along. I'm due for a HUGE update, but I just don't have the time to get my thread up to date with all the work and the photos. I'm almost done with my electrical, including the installation of all my back boxes...
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