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post #91 of 275 Old 09-23-2008, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Im sure it will vary region to region but I wasn't too thrilled with selection at Lowes. I had better succes with the selection at Home Depot, especially the darker grays or charcoal which is the colors I was originally shooting for to match the trim color I'm doing.

We settled on a licorice color for the stage and sierra for the main floor and riser. Basically the sierra is a dark blue color which matches the color of my painted ceiling and starlight panel cloth but still offers nice contrast between it and the licorice for the stage, might do the vertical part of the riser in licorice also. I have a lighter blue going on the walls and we didn't want to introduce yet another color as part of a pattern. Mrs. was second guessing after seeing some of the great selections made on the forum, but I think it will look nice.

I am going back to Lowe's this week with my wife, taking the Anchorage Red Delicious fabric sample with me andI am hoping to find a black/red patterned carpet, that would solve all my color issues. If not, I will settle with a black/gray patterned carpet, and worst case solid black or solid graphite/charcoal color.
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post #92 of 275 Old 09-23-2008, 01:45 PM - Thread Starter
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The more I think at how many vertical and horizontal linear feet I would need in FabricMate track, the more I am convinced that I should go with furring. I have about 600 linear feet (verical and horizonal) and thats not even including the random windows, doors, columns, wall edges, corners, all ofwhich will need their own track. I could literary buy almost 1000 foot of Track and still need more. Even at $2 per foot for track, I could spend nearly $1500-$3000 on track.

If anyone has any free time, check out the basic basement sketch in the first page (first post). You will get an idea at how many doors, windows, columns and things I have to furr or track around. Most walls are 7 feet high under a 1 foot soffit. When I did the math I ended up with neary 250 horizonal feet and 320 vertical feet of track, and I lost track after I started adding vertical/horizontal tracks needed around columns, windows and such....ouch!

I could spend a fortune here on track, or I could invest in a table saw for around $200-$300 that will do the job of splitting the much cheaper 1x6 lumber into 5 one inch strips. Thats the one important tool I still do not have, since I didnt need one before. I know the staples will be visible, so I will have to purchase a lot of decorative furring strips and quarter rounds to cover up the staples.


Any thoughts?


............
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post #93 of 275 Old 09-23-2008, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

Per my post about my primer/paint disaster above. The projector mount was also affected by the primer accident, it was only a $15 projector mount from Monoprice that came only in white. I needed a flexible projector mount that would extend vertically up to 10 or 13 inchesn down, since I have a 7 foot high soffit in the center of the room, so the monoprice mount was perfect except for the color. Well its kind of ruined now and it would take forever to clean up.

So I decided to go with a more expensive projector mount, which already comes in black/graphite color, needing little or no black paint. I should be getting it today or tomorrow.



It was $47, but I think it will work really well with my black ceiling and black can trims, and it looks very simple to install, plus it can extend between 6" and 14" and has a 4-way 15 degree tilt and a 360 degree rotation. So I plan on FINALLY mounting my projector and taking screen shots tonight or tomorrow. I really need to start building my riser/stage by Friday/weekend so I can finally measure and order my carpet.


I like the mount. Where did you buy it?

Rinker Family Cinema Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=Rinker
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post #94 of 275 Old 09-23-2008, 02:43 PM
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There are ways to hide the staples. Look into Chinadog's thread. He hid them all and documented how very well. Also, you could make frames, and wrap they with the fabrick, then attach the frames to the wall. The staples will all be on the back side, so also hidden.

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post #95 of 275 Old 09-23-2008, 02:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SatelliteGuy View Post

I like the mount. Where did you buy it?

Walmart's website, not available in their stores, however you can do free site-to-store shipping and pick it up at your nearest walmart.

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...ct_id=10056412

You can also do a google search for ELPM-01 and you can find it as low as $42 on another site, but I would rather buy it from Walmart, incase I didnt like it I can return it to the store.
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post #96 of 275 Old 09-23-2008, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chiahead View Post

There are ways to hide the staples. Look into Chinadog's thread. He hid them all and documented how very well. Also, you could make frames, and wrap they with the fabrick, then attach the frames to the wall. The staples will all be on the back side, so also hidden.

I haven't thorougly read his documenation on the fabric panels, I guess I should go back and check it out. I am aware of how you can staple the fabric behind the furring strips, which means I would have to make these panels off the wall and then mount them to the wall somehow using some kind of glue I suppose, since nails will be visible on the outside. This method leaves very little room for error, since panels will go up side by side.
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post #97 of 275 Old 09-23-2008, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

Hey Bud,
I got a question about howyou blocked your basement windows. I have 3 windows in my basement, two on the left wall, and one on the front wall. I want to block them but I know by code I need to keep the egress window unblocked. Also, I will be treating all walls and covering them with GOM as well.

So I am thinking of doing one of two things, either coming up with some kind of temporary or removable window panel (sort of like what you did, but use hinges on one side and a simple slide/mechanism on the other side) this way it says in place.

The other option which is what you did, to make this drywall/stud panel and tape/mud it shut, but I would schedule for the final inspection prior to doing so. But my question is, how the world are these panels free standing, it looks like the only thing holding them is tape/mud. Are they just jammed in their really well?

Hey Sam, sorry for the delay.

In my case, I actually had enough room after rough framing and drywall to make a drywall sandwich. What I mean is that I used a painted piece of drywall on the window side (for people looking in) and I used a couple of 2x4s turned sideways secured to the framing (surround by insulation) with another layer of drywall screwed to the framing. The tape and mud in this case is to cover the rough edges. This will give you a better idea.

http://images108.fotki.com/v611/phot...CP_2716-vi.jpg

Now that might not pass inspection obviously. another option I though about was a removable GOM panel of sorts. You build a solid box or panel, , but leave some room (like 1/2" around the perimeter) that you can attach a foam to then cover it with GOM. The panel would just friction fit in place. You can remove it if you have to, but it could just stay in place. It would give you a pretty clean look.

Bud
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post #98 of 275 Old 09-23-2008, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

The more I think at how many vertical and horizontal linear feet I would need in FabricMate track, the more I am convinced that I should go with furring. I have about 600 linear feet (verical and horizonal) and thats not even including the random windows, doors, columns, wall edges, corners, all ofwhich will need their own track. I could literary buy almost 1000 foot of Track and still need more. Even at $2 per foot for track, I could spend nearly $1500-$3000 on track.

If anyone has any free time, check out the basic basement sketch in the first page (first post). You will get an idea at how many doors, windows, columns and things I have to furr or track around. Most walls are 7 feet high under a 1 foot soffit. When I did the math I ended up with neary 250 horizonal feet and 320 vertical feet of track, and I lost track after I started adding vertical/horizontal tracks needed around columns, windows and such....ouch!

I could spend a fortune here on track, or I could invest in a table saw for around $200-$300 that will do the job of splitting the much cheaper 1x6 lumber into 5 one inch strips. Thats the one important tool I still do not have, since I didnt need one before. I know the staples will be visible, so I will have to purchase a lot of decorative furring strips and quarter rounds to cover up the staples.


Any thoughts?


............

If I had to do mine again, I'd do the track. Sure, it's more expensive, but its pretty easy to work with and removable. Works well if you have speakers behind the cloth as well (like surrounds). Since you have columns, may be trickier. Also, you can use a combination of the two if it makes sense. We made panels for the screen wall and around the door at Chad's. Track everywhere else.

Bud
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post #99 of 275 Old 09-23-2008, 03:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

If I had to do mine again, I'd do the track. Sure, it's more expensive, but its pretty easy to work with and removable. Works well if you have speakers behind the cloth as well (like surrounds). Since you have columns, may be trickier. Also, you can use a combination of the two if it makes sense. We made panels for the screen wall and around the door at Chad's. Track everywhere else.

Bud

Thanks Bud, this would work on a nice open basement without any doors or windows or columns, with the exception of the one main door to the theater. But in my case, I will have as many as 3 windows, 2 columns, and 4 doors all affected and that will add up in track. I will hopefully meet up with Ryan (Roaring Fork HT) to see what he did and hopefully he can check out my basement to give me his 2 cents.

Bud, could you please PM me and let me know how much it would cost per foot for either the 3/4" or the 1 1/4" track? It sounds like I may end up needing a minimum of 600 feet.

As far as the windows, I have been leaning towards some type of a GOM panel as well. These 3 windows are the only windows I have in the basement, since the entire 670 sqft basement will be a theater.
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post #100 of 275 Old 09-23-2008, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

Photo Journal from May 30th 2008 until 09/15/2008:


Basement Prior to Framing & Post Shift:


Notice original structure post removed and replaced by new post (5 ft to the right)


Can you explain how this post was shifted? Are there any concerns of the I Beam not being supported properly near the center? Or was this reinforced some how?

BTW, your build is coming along nicely. Keep it up!
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post #101 of 275 Old 09-24-2008, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks Doug,
This was a big concern for me too at the time my friend Russel suggested I shift the structure post to open up the basement, rather than have two separate rooms. So I paid some extra money to have a strucutural engineer come out, inspect the design and structure of the house from the basement all the way to the 2nd floor, inside and outside. He spent probably about an hour looking throughout the house and out side the house and then went back to his office, fired up his CAD software and came to the conclusion that the post can safely be moved up to 5-6 feet to the Right from its original location. He drew a design which was approved by the building inspection. So I hired out a general contractor who knew the strucutural engineer and followed his design step by step. He dug up a 2 foot deep hole (you only need a one foot deep hole, but I have some waste pipes that I had to dig under), the hole was 3 ft x 3 ft wide and thats where he poured in the new footing with two levels of rebars (kinda like an X/O chart - two vertical and two horizontal). The inspector had to see the big hole first prior to pouring the concrete, then he came back to see the final work, when the new post was installed, and the proper welding was done on the post/beam and the pressure plates, in addition to the old post being removed as you see in the 2nd picture.

It passed inspection from the first visit. This is actually done quite often, so you just need to call around to get the best contractor pricing for doing the job, and it has to be a structural contractor or a general contractor who is very familiar with that type of work. There is a lot of digging, concrete pouring, metal cutting and welding involved. So expect to pay about $200-$400 for the structural design by a licensed structural engineer, then another $100 or more to file for the inspection permit, and anywhere between $1500-$3000 for the actual labor. But it all paid off for me, because now I have a wide open basement, without any stupid poles in the middle obstructing the view of the screen.
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post #102 of 275 Old 09-24-2008, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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I am trying to put together a shopping list for everything I will need to buy from home depot to build the riser and the stage.

I am planning on building an 12 inch riser (5ft deep, 12 feet wide) and a Stage matching the same 12" height and will be about 40" deep and 14 feet wide.

I assume I need the following basic items:
  • 2"x8" standard untreated lumber for both the stage and riser (as many as I need to set at 16" on center.
  • 2"x10" pressure treated lumber for the outside frame touching the concrete floor.
  • 2 x 3/4" layers of plywood to cover each platform (stage and riser) with one layer of 30 pound roofing felt in between. (So by then I should have a finished riser height of about 11" or so. And Carpet/Pad should add another 1/2" to 1" to complete my 12" riser requirements.
  • Joist hangers for 2" x 8" lumber to connect to the pressure treated front and back studs, which will enable the non-treated lumber to be about 1"-2" off the concrete/slab ground, and to be flush with the upper edge of the treated studs to make a flat level surface to place the two layers of plywood
  • 30 pound roofing felt to place under stage and riser
  • Sand to fill under the right and left side of the stage where subwoofers would be placed ?
  • Insulation (R-19) to stuff between joists/studs inside riser and stage
  • Screws to attach joist hangers to main outer frame of riser and stage.


So here are my questions:
  • If I plan on adding a bullnoze lip, should I add a few inches of double-plywood surface to prep for lip bullnose on exposed areas only, by adding a couple of inches of double plywood surface front, right, back of riser - since left side will go against wall) ?
  • Also lip for Stage: should I add extra lip surface area for front of stage, possibly just a couple of inches over?
  • Regarding sand, I am assuming that I only have to really put in sand in the areas underneath the subwoofer, near bass traps?
  • Also, do I need to leave some room between the stage platform and the front wall and two side walls? I heard that if the stage is not decouples from the surround walls by atleast an inch or less, the low frequency vibrations will travel througout the walls/ceiling.
  • One I have that plywood surface over the riser and stage, do I actually buy special bullnose to go around that edge or will the carpet and padding create that smoother round surface automatically.
  • Last question regarding U-boats? If I am planning on buying 2x10 pressure treated wood for the front, back, and two sides of each platform, and I am using joist hangers to hang the standard non-treated 2"x8" studs so they dont touch the ground and are flush with the upper part of the treated studs, plus I am laying the entire structure over 30 pound roofing felt, do I still need U-boats?
  • If we have any u-boat advocates in the forum, can you give me an idea how many I need to buy? Is it one u-boat per stud/joist? They are failty cheap, so if you think I HAVE to have them, can you please give me an idea on how many I would need for a 14'x4'x1' stage and 12'x5'x1' riser?

Is there a tutorial about how to use u-boats? I did a quick search and I didnt find anything helpful.

Thanks again!


P.S: Please note that I am aware that 2x8 and 2x10 lumber is not really exactly 2x8 or 2x10, so I may need to get something slightly wider or just pick up what will work for me.
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post #103 of 275 Old 09-24-2008, 12:02 PM
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Hey Sam,

It was good to actually meet you last night and have a chance to show off my HT and see your space. I've thought some and I think fabric panels may be an easier way to achieve the look you're after and save some headaches over the full-on furring strip approach.

I also really like the track idea and you have a couple of challenges to contend with there. You need to decide on a horizontal vs. vertical fabric approach and figure out how you want to hide seams (like with a chair rail) or deal with them (with a track). Considering all that, the panels may just be easier if you like that look.

-Ryan
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post #104 of 275 Old 09-24-2008, 12:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmcveigh View Post

Hey Sam,

It was good to actually meet you last night and have a chance to show off my HT and see your space. I've thought some and I think fabric panels may be an easier way to achieve the look you're after and save some headaches over the full-on furring strip approach.

I also really like the track idea and you have a couple of challenges to contend with there. You need to decide on a horizontal vs. vertical fabric approach and figure out how you want to hide seams (like with a chair rail) or deal with them (with a track). Considering all that, the panels may just be easier if you like that look.

-Ryan

Thanks Ryan, you have a great house and an amazing theater, I can tell you put in a lot of thought and hard work into it. I just hope mine looks nearly as good as yours when it's finished.

When you say Panels, are you talking about the ready-made decorative fabric panels that just hang over your painted walls? If that's what you are referring to, I thought about it a while back but I dont think it will be as effective as running the 1" across both side walls. Plus I am not sure if that method of hanging fabric panels in random spots would look uniform in my basement and it would not treat nearly as many areas as the JM/OC material would. I would end up with several panels in random places on the wall which is not really attractive since I dont really have a solid square room.

So I still would like to go the fabric over furring or track route. I am still waiting to hear back from Bud on pricing for the 5 foot sections of 1". I am thinking I might atleast do the track on the chair raile level if I do the two tone horizontal runs, or the vertical seams if I go the one color vertical route. My wife and I will definitely have to make a decision tonight.
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post #105 of 275 Old 09-24-2008, 01:04 PM
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I may be wrong but Ryan may be suggesting fabric panels/frames like these.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...55&postcount=1
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post #106 of 275 Old 09-24-2008, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

I may be wrong but Ryan may be suggesting fabric panels/frames like these.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...55&postcount=1

oh yeah, I have seen GPOWER's panels, they are work of art to say the very least. It maybe very hard for me to do the same with my basement, just too many variations and inconsistensies with 3 doors, 3 windows, and 2 columns, slanted 1/2 back wall...etc.
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post #107 of 275 Old 09-24-2008, 08:38 PM
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Yep I was referring to something like oman listed. I think you could make that work - even after you have the acoustic treatments up. Lots have folks have gone this route. It is an aesthetic decision in my opinion. There's definitely some work involved in it.

Thanks for compliments on my theater.

-Ryan
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post #108 of 275 Old 09-25-2008, 07:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Ladies and Gentleman,

The Cedar Peaks Cinema is proud to announce that we had passed the city's Final building inspection yesterday afternoon.

WOOOHOOOO!!!! Now I can do whatever I want! Whateva Whateva!!!! I'll do What I Want!!!





Also I received my projector mount from Wal-mart (more details and screen shows later).

Last, I have made a final decision on GOM prep. I will definitely go with the original horizontal with chair rail route. I am gonna talk the details over with Ryan and BPape to get their impressions. But I think it will work out much better. I will explain in details how and why I need to go this route over my lunch hour. so stay tuned!
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post #109 of 275 Old 09-25-2008, 10:18 AM
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Your in luck if you haven't bought your material for the screen yet.
http://www.interiormall.com/cat/nsam...=113044&t=2182

Another member posted a source for the phifer.
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post #110 of 275 Old 09-25-2008, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Your in luck if you haven't bought your material for the screen yet.
http://www.interiormall.com/cat/nsam...=113044&t=2182

Another member posted a source for the phifer.

I know I saw that. Is that really the same quality AT material to the ShearWeave that Seymour and SMX sell? If so, its a bargain!
The only problem is figuring out how much I would need for a 15 degree cut, and how I would go about doing the 15 degree cut.
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post #111 of 275 Old 09-25-2008, 10:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Anyone care to chime in about the riser/stage questions below? please?


Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

I am trying to put together a shopping list for everything I will need to buy from home depot to build the riser and the stage.

I am planning on building an 12 inch riser (5ft deep, 12 feet wide) and a Stage matching the same 12" height and will be about 40" deep and 14 feet wide.

I assume I need the following basic items:
  • 2"x8" standard untreated lumber for both the stage and riser (as many as I need to set at 16" on center.
  • 2"x10" pressure treated lumber for the outside frame touching the concrete floor.
  • 2 x 3/4" layers of plywood to cover each platform (stage and riser) with one layer of 30 pound roofing felt in between. (So by then I should have a finished riser height of about 11" or so. And Carpet/Pad should add another 1/2" to 1" to complete my 12" riser requirements.
  • Joist hangers for 2" x 8" lumber to connect to the pressure treated front and back studs, which will enable the non-treated lumber to be about 1"-2" off the concrete/slab ground, and to be flush with the upper edge of the treated studs to make a flat level surface to place the two layers of plywood
  • 30 pound roofing felt to place under stage and riser
  • Sand to fill under the right and left side of the stage where subwoofers would be placed ?
  • Insulation (R-19) to stuff between joists/studs inside riser and stage
  • Screws to attach joist hangers to main outer frame of riser and stage.


So here are my questions:
  • If I plan on adding a bullnoze lip, should I add a few inches of double-plywood surface to prep for lip bullnose on exposed areas only, by adding a couple of inches of double plywood surface front, right, back of riser - since left side will go against wall) ?
  • Also lip for Stage: should I add extra lip surface area for front of stage, possibly just a couple of inches over?
  • Regarding sand, I am assuming that I only have to really put in sand in the areas underneath the subwoofer, near bass traps?
  • Also, do I need to leave some room between the stage platform and the front wall and two side walls? I heard that if the stage is not decouples from the surround walls by atleast an inch or less, the low frequency vibrations will travel througout the walls/ceiling.
  • One I have that plywood surface over the riser and stage, do I actually buy special bullnose to go around that edge or will the carpet and padding create that smoother round surface automatically.
  • Last question regarding U-boats? If I am planning on buying 2x10 pressure treated wood for the front, back, and two sides of each platform, and I am using joist hangers to hang the standard non-treated 2"x8" studs so they dont touch the ground and are flush with the upper part of the treated studs, plus I am laying the entire structure over 30 pound roofing felt, do I still need U-boats?
  • If we have any u-boat advocates in the forum, can you give me an idea how many I need to buy? Is it one u-boat per stud/joist? They are failty cheap, so if you think I HAVE to have them, can you please give me an idea on how many I would need for a 14'x4'x1' stage and 12'x5'x1' riser?

Is there a tutorial about how to use u-boats? I did a quick search and I didnt find anything helpful.

Thanks again!


P.S: Please note that I am aware that 2x8 and 2x10 lumber is not really exactly 2x8 or 2x10, so I may need to get something slightly wider or just pick up what will work for me.

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post #112 of 275 Old 09-25-2008, 12:17 PM
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Same material as what is available from SeymourAV. Smx is supposed to be propietary, but it's similar.

Sands has posted some calculation on how to figure out the cut, just not sure exactly how it works I asked for some clarification.
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post #113 of 275 Old 09-25-2008, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Same material as what is available from SeymourAV. Smx is supposed to be propietary, but it's similar.

Sands has posted some calculation on how to figure out the cut, just not sure exactly how it works I asked for some clarification.

Excellent, please let me know what you find out.
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post #114 of 275 Old 09-25-2008, 02:08 PM
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Sam, I'll take a stab at your questions. First, why not just use 2x4 or 2x6 material in between the 2x10's? Costs less and probably no reason to use that heavy of a cross member with joist hangars. I also may have some extra roofing felt at home from my project - I don't remember but I'll check. It isn't that expensive or anything but if I have some it is simply wasting space in my garage.

My opinion about sand for Sub's - and I asked Bryan the same question for my stage - don't bother if you're not using sand in the entire thing. I didn't and I don't get any resonance in my stage. Regarding insulation, just use what's cheapest. I used recycled blown-in cellulose, because it was cheapest. I wouldn't recommend that again - it was a hassle to work with. I suspect rolls of r-13 are cheapest by volume and you can just double it up and get r-19's thickness.

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So here are my questions:
  • If I plan on adding a bullnoze lip, should I add a few inches of double-plywood surface to prep for lip bullnose on exposed areas only, by adding a couple of inches of double plywood surface front, right, back of riser - since left side will go against wall) ?
  • Also lip for Stage: should I add extra lip surface area for front of stage, possibly just a couple of inches over?

Yes. Just overhang your plywood ~2" on exposed sides on all edges. I did the same for riser and stage.

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  • Regarding sand, I am assuming that I only have to really put in sand in the areas underneath the subwoofer, near bass traps?

No - see my opinion on this above. Just use insulation throughout.

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Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

  • Also, do I need to leave some room between the stage platform and the front wall and two side walls? I heard that if the stage is not decouples from the surround walls by atleast an inch or less, the low frequency vibrations will travel througout the walls/ceiling.

I didn't and I do get some low frequency noise upstairs. It doesn't bother my family though. I think this is a preference issue.

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  • One I have that plywood surface over the riser and stage, do I actually buy special bullnose to go around that edge or will the carpet and padding create that smoother round surface automatically.

No. You saw how mine stage and riser worked out and I didn't round-over what I have. You can with a router if you have one, but I don't think it is necessary.

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  • Last question regarding U-boats? If I am planning on buying 2x10 pressure treated wood for the front, back, and two sides of each platform, and I am using joist hangers to hang the standard non-treated 2"x8" studs so they dont touch the ground and are flush with the upper part of the treated studs, plus I am laying the entire structure over 30 pound roofing felt, do I still need U-boats?
  • If we have any u-boat advocates in the forum, can you give me an idea how many I need to buy? Is it one u-boat per stud/joist? They are failty cheap, so if you think I HAVE to have them, can you please give me an idea on how many I would need for a 14'x4'x1' stage and 12'x5'x1' riser?

I don't know. I would advocate a 2nd layer of roofing felt between plywood layers in addition to directly on your concrete floor.

-Ryan
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post #115 of 275 Old 09-25-2008, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Ryan, thank you VERY much for taking the time to answer my questions. I was starting to wonder if maybe the post became invisible or burried with all my other posts in this thread so I ended up posting it separately on the forum before I saw your reply. Very good point about using the smaller studs on the inside, its defiitely an option to save some cash, if I am using joist hangers. I am definitely going to use a layer of roofing felt underneath the stage and riser, and another layer sandwiched between the two layers of 3/4" plywood.

I had one other question, regarding the screen and screen wall. Once I frame my screen wall, where do I attach/screw it to? Ceiling? two side walls? Stage? all of the above?

And what about the DIY screen, is there a rule of thumb if it has to be attached 100% to the frame, or can it be attached to the top part of the frame by using multiple heavy duty door hinges where I can lift the screen frame upwards in a vertical swing motion (opposite of door horizontal swing motion) and maybe have a thin furring strip at the botton frame where it holds it in place so it doesnt swing the other way (behind the screen wall).


What do you think?
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Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

I had one other question, regarding the screen and screen wall. Once I frame my screen wall, where do I attach/screw it to? Ceiling? two side walls? Stage? all of the above?

And what about the DIY screen, is there a rule of thumb if it has to be attached 100% to the frame, or can it be attached to the top part of the frame by using multiple heavy duty door hinges where I can lift the screen frame upwards in a vertical swing motion (opposite of door horizontal swing motion) and maybe have a thin furring strip at the botton frame where it holds it in place so it doesnt swing the other way (behind the screen wall).


What do you think?

I attached my screen wall to my stage, side walls and ceiling above. This may not be what everyone does, but I'm certain it depends on your tolerance for sound transmission outside of your space.

As for the screen, I simply hang mine on / in the screen wall. See my thread here - I used a carpet transition piece which worked remarkably well. I don't have any need to lift the screen upwards, and removing the screen is pretty straightforward if I need to.

-Ryan
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post #117 of 275 Old 09-26-2008, 09:52 AM
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some people friction fit the screen in the wall (not a full wall, but a large window in the false wall). Put some blocks in the back, so you can't push it in too far.
Don't forget to float the wall, like you floated your other walls, don't want the stage heaving, and pushing your ceiling up higher.

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post #118 of 275 Old 09-26-2008, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Don't forget to float the wall, like you floated your other walls, don't want the stage heaving, and pushing your ceiling up higher.

WOAH!!! Are you serious? Would I really need to frame my false wall to be floating over the stage? What if I only attach the screen wall fram to the side walls and stage (not ceiling) and leave a 3/8" gap between the top frame and the ceiling? This way I wont damage the painted/textured soffit by putting screws through it. I think securing the screenwall to the stage platform and the two side walls should suffice and would not require me to frame a floating false/screen wall above the stage.
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post #119 of 275 Old 09-26-2008, 10:46 AM
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I'm with Michael on floating it. Better safe than sorry, especially with the soils in the area. I'm actually going to leave 4-6" of space at the top of my stage wall (instead of trying to float it, and hide the gap with an arched soffit which will be hung from the ceiling.

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post #120 of 275 Old 09-26-2008, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

...or can it be attached to the top part of the frame by using multiple heavy duty door hinges where I can lift the screen frame upwards in a vertical swing motion (opposite of door horizontal swing motion) and maybe have a thin furring strip at the botton frame where it holds it in place so it doesnt swing the other way (behind the screen wall).


What do you think?

If you decide to go with hinges and a "flip up" method here are a few links...

Black Banshee is using hinges - see answer #4 from that post.

A few pics of Itai's use of hinges. If you follow the thread a little after that post he explains the setup a little more.

The Zen Garden HT - Move Along...There is Nothing To See Here.
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