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post #181 of 275 Old 02-26-2009, 05:19 PM
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Awesome Sam congratulations! Your theater looks amazing. Good to see all the Colorado builds. I am definitely reconsidering fabric instead of paint after seeing your theater. Did you just fabric over the window coverings you made? Did the inspectors say anything about it?
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post #182 of 275 Old 02-27-2009, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Moikey View Post

Awesome Sam congratulations! Your theater looks amazing. Good to see all the Colorado builds. I am definitely reconsidering fabric instead of paint after seeing your theater. Did you just fabric over the window coverings you made? Did the inspectors say anything about it?

Thanks for the compliments, I see that you live in Aurora, I will be more than happy to help with advice, Ryan (RMcVeigh - Roaring Fork Cinema) in Broomfield helped me quiet a lot in the past 6 months so I'd be happy to help other Coloradans and Denverites any chance I get. Sometimes that onsite advice makes a world of difference over than just reading construction threads and looking at pictures. By the way, I did texture and paint my celings and soffits, I only used fabric on walls.

To answer your question, the inspectors did the inspection back in Septemeber when all windows were open and before I put up fabric. As long as you have your egress window open, then there shouldn't be an issue with inspection or fire code. As far as the window plugs, they are not permanent as you can see, they are removable with 4 old fashioned mini door lock bars each. I simply aligned them with the the outside of the window frame (inside the basement) so that they are flush with the wall, it was kind of tricky because window dimensions aren't perfect, so some areas at the bottom of the window openning are 1/8" wider or narrower, same with height. So it took a little but of cutting and jiggling to make it work and to make sure that the plywood window plugs are secure and won't shake when there is a lot of bass in the theater. Once I had them secure then I placed the JM814/OC703 insulation over the plywood, the same way I treated any wall surface, and then I placed the fabric over, again the same way I did with the rest of the wall surface. I did have to use some self adhesive foam tape to seal the areas around the window plug borders where light could leak during the day. The 1/2" grey foam adhesive tape is something you will find at Home Depot or Lowes, it was like $5 for a 20 foot roll I think, and its very removable, it's really not that adhesive to be honest but it does the job. I also spray painted the outside of the plywood in black (the part that is visible to the outside fro the backyard through the window). Spraying black paint on plywood and looking at it through the window is almost perceived like a a thick textured or patterned curtain. I really did not want to go over the top with drywalling my windows, in case I ever sell this house (which I hope I never do after spending so much time and money on the basement) I did not want prospective buyers to complain that the windows are boarded, if they are stupid enought not to appreciate what I did in the basement with the fabric, then they can rip it and open up the windows again, believe me there are some really weird people out there who could care less about a dedicated theater and fabric walls, and they would rip that basement apart if they buy the house, but hopefully I never EVER have to move from this house for atleast 10-15 years.


BTW, no matter what you hear, GOM fabric's got to be the EASIEST and MOST FORGIVING type of fabric to work with. Spend the extra few hundred bucks on nice GOM fabric, go to Guilford of Maine's website or to FabricMate's site and look at all the fabric types, textures and colors and ask them to send you a sample of your top 10-20 favorites before you make your final decision. Also for the love of God spend the extra few hundred bucks on FabricMate track, it makes a WORLD OF DIFFERENCE. I used 1" track everywhere except around door frames and behind baseboard floor trim (where I used 1" furring and stapes fabric over). By using furring on the doors and baseboard areas I saved about $400-$500, but if I had the extra cash, I would have spent $1400 instead of $800, all on track because track is so friggin easy to work with, you can stretch and retretch the fabric until the end of time, you can remove the fabric from the track (takes a little work) but with staples over fabric, you're SOL, so you only get once chance to stretch the fabric before you have to run staple or two per inch of horzontal/vertical fabric, if you have to do over, it will take forever to remove the staples from the wood, the track is just so much mroe forgiving. Also the GOM fabric I used for the walls is the Anchorage Onyx and Red Delicious, and its EXTREMELY easy to clean, I even sprayed black spray on on area by mistake, and I was able to clean it with detergent and warm water and the paint was 99.9% gone within minutes, I love GOM fabric incase you can't tell already.

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post #183 of 275 Old 02-28-2009, 10:22 PM
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Great Job Sam! Thanks for posting all the detailed pictures. This really helps for those of us who are still working through the build process. Thanks again for the info on the projector. I'm sure I'll have more questions for you in the future.
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post #184 of 275 Old 03-01-2009, 04:01 AM
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I can't believe I didn't see this thread before. I just spent the last 30 minutes looking over the great pics. Awesome detail and excellent notes too!

Thanks for the tips on the window plugs and secret usb locations inside the riser/stage. I'm going to add those in!


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post #185 of 275 Old 03-02-2009, 06:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmainwaring View Post

Great Job Sam! Thanks for posting all the detailed pictures. This really helps for those of us who are still working through the build process. Thanks again for the info on the projector. I'm sure I'll have more questions for you in the future.

No problem at all, I tried to take as many pictures as possible with every little thing I did, hopefully my little notes and comments above each set of pictures helps. I really did not want to write paragraphs explaining how to do one thing, and I thought a picture like they say is worth a thousand words. So I am glad you found it helpful. So have you called Michael with Integrity Theater yet? He should be dropping off my RS20 this Wednesday, he would have dropped them off last Friday but JVC slacked off with their shipping.

Hey I see this was your first post on AVS, welcome aboard

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post #186 of 275 Old 03-02-2009, 06:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scawt View Post

I can't believe I didn't see this thread before. I just spent the last 30 minutes looking over the great pics. Awesome detail and excellent notes too!

Thanks for the tips on the window plugs and secret usb locations inside the riser/stage. I'm going to add those in!


Anytime, I am glad you found the pictures helpful. I think my thread just gets burried with all the other great construction threads out there and very few people realize how much illustrated information is in here, because I normally wait a few months before I post any progress and so most AVSers are not familiar with this theater contruction thread.

As I said above, a picture is worth a 1000 words, so rather than write endless lines about how to do one thing, I would much rather take close up step-by-step pictures which are easier on the eyes, plus who doesn't love pretty theater pictures? I am glad you found my USB compartments and window plug ideas helpful.

Right now, I am working on finishing my mainwall (wall behind screen wall). Many may think I may beover doing it, but I cut over 40 x 1/2" MDF square furrings for the wall outlets behind the screen (low voltage and high voltage). I am not going to go over the top with the area behind the screen, but I still want to nice decent clean look, thats why I am furring around the outlets and since the furring is 2" in thickness (in order to do 2" JM814 insulation sound treatment) this means I will have to use 3-4 different layers of the 1/2" MDF outlet furring. I have about 9 outlets behind the screen. So a lot of prep work to be done. I purchased some cheap black broadcloth for the mainwall, since I was told that I don't have to spend the extra cash on GOM behind the screen.

I wil post photos of my progress soon.

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post #187 of 275 Old 03-03-2009, 10:24 PM
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Thanks Sam. I haven't contacted Michael yet as I'm still in the drywall phase of my basement finish. We are finishing about 1800 square feet with the theater room as one area. So needless to say I have a few months yet before I'll be ready to purchase the projector.

It is good to see posts from folks here in Colorado. I've been reading and researching the forum for quite some time. I've learned a lot thanks to threads like yours. Let us know how the projector looks once you get it all setup.

Rich
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post #188 of 275 Old 03-04-2009, 07:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmainwaring View Post

Thanks Sam. I haven't contacted Michael yet as I'm still in the drywall phase of my basement finish. We are finishing about 1800 square feet with the theater room as one area. So needless to say I have a few months yet before I'll be ready to purchase the projector.

It is good to see posts from folks here in Colorado. I've been reading and researching the forum for quite some time. I've learned a lot thanks to threads like yours. Let us know how the projector looks once you get it all setup.

Rich

No problem Rich, yeah I agree don't make the mistake I did by buying the projector 6 months to a year before the theater construction is done. By the way I got my JVC HD100 last July, I started hearing about the new RS20/HD750 so I ended up selling it a 20% loss to opt for the RS20. Plus I would even bother installing the projector in an uncarpeted and unpainted room full of drywall dust. So take your time on the projector, but dont take your time with the construction, gotta keep moving!!! hehe

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post #189 of 275 Old 03-04-2009, 08:22 PM
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Thanks for the insulation info. I can appreciate all the hard work you've done. I'm ready to put down the tools and start enjoying my basement. We need a parade of theaters along the front range some time.

Lance


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post #190 of 275 Old 03-05-2009, 06:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm ready to put down the tools and start enjoying my basement


Amen to that! I still have to finish my screenwall and 2" acoustic treatment behind screenwall, then build by screen. All in a matter of a 2-3 weeks I hope.

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post #191 of 275 Old 03-05-2009, 10:33 AM
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I have been attmepting to think how we could pull off a parade of theaters. I want to see everybody's theaters!!

But no way I could pull off regular rotating meets with my time constraints.

Maybe one weekend or something.
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post #192 of 275 Old 03-05-2009, 01:03 PM
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I would be up to see these. You can see mine if you are into studs and nothing else yet...

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post #193 of 275 Old 03-05-2009, 01:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I would be up to see these. You can see mine if you are into studs and nothing else yet...

And we shall call it the parade of 2x4 studs formation.


But I am up to it as well, I just need a few more weeks, so sometime in April would be good. We should probably post a bew thread to get count of all Coloradoan AVSers with finished or near-finished theaters who would be interested.

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post #194 of 275 Old 06-09-2009, 11:04 PM
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damnsam77

Excellent job on the Home Theater construction...gives me something to shoot for. Also, thanks for sharing the local Colorado construction/supplier information. I know it will be of great help as I try to enhance my gaming/movie room.
Thanks
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post #195 of 275 Old 06-11-2009, 02:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by waldo563 View Post

damnsam77

Excellent job on the Home Theater construction...gives me something to shoot for. Also, thanks for sharing the local Colorado construction/supplier information. I know it will be of great help as I try to enhance my gaming/movie room.
Thanks

No problem at all, I am glad the info was useful.

BTW, my theater has been finished for almost two months now, but I cannot seem to find the time to take pictures and post them ...maybe because I am FINALLY enjoying the fruits of my labor, but I will for sure put up some new FINAL pictures over the next couple of weeks.

So the project took exactly 11 months from start to finish.

P.S: I added a full size Two-Player Arcade Cabinet with tons of classic and newer games

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post #196 of 275 Old 06-25-2009, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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I know I have taken forever to share some pictures of my finished theater, but I will be uploading all the new and FINAL photos later this afternoon.

Please note that there are a couple of areas I am still going to go back and adjust, fix, replace, or add to. Those include the framed 2.37:1 acoustic transparent screen, the Black/Red Columns to be changed to All Red on Top and Black below chair rail. Also I will be adding some graphics and mylars to the arcade cabinet in addition to plexi-glass on the top mylar and and the actual TV front. In addition I am building my HTPC tonight that's wht I did not have pictures of my rack open yet, and last...there are still a TON of tools and hanging wires in the AV room...its a big mess right now, so it just looks pretty on the outside, but it's a death trap on the inside

I am just trying to catch my breath and relax for a few weeks at this point. I am so burned out after the 11 months of non-stop construction that I am even too lazy to program my Harmony remote. As you know, I started with a completely unfinished basement with nothing but bare concrete walls and concrete slab floors.
  • We framed, ran electrical and low voltage wiring, insulated, drywall-ed, textured and painted ceiling and soffits.
  • Built stage and back row riser, and framed false screen wall.
  • Carpeted floor and stairs.
  • Prepped walls for acoustic treatment and fabric tracks, added acoustic treatment to significantly improve and balance sound and acoustics, covered all walls with acoustic fabric,
  • Installed all lighting fixtures and outlets.
  • Framed a 2.37:1 aspect ratio screen.
  • Installed projector and anamorphic lens for true anamoprhic wide screen viewing
  • Installed AV rack with all AV components, set up 7.1 speaker surround sound
  • Installed bass shakers underneath each of the 8 theater seats
  • Hung posters and other movie theater signage
  • Popped some fresh popcorn and hit play!

There are a few things I would like to go back and add, adjust or replace. But the theater construction in general is 100% completed.


Anyhow, I will be back later this afternoon to post all the new photos...STAY TUNED!!

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post #197 of 275 Old 06-25-2009, 11:31 AM
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Don't feel so bad. It took me 3 months to touch my remote.

Jason


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post #198 of 275 Old 06-26-2009, 04:43 AM
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Sam,

Just wanted to make sure you realized that yesterday afternoon has come and gone


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post #199 of 275 Old 06-26-2009, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Sam,

Just wanted to make sure you realized that yesterday afternoon has come and gone

I guess things don't change much, I still take forever to do anything...hehe...actually I wasnt feeling too well yesterday and went home early to get some rest.

I started uploading all the photos online and now I am just trying to pick the best photos to put up. I am also in the middle of building my HTPC this morning and now on my way to the dentist. But as soon as I get back from the dentist, I will post the new pictures and possibly a new cool 5 min tour

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post #200 of 275 Old 06-26-2009, 08:48 AM
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The more things change the more they stay the same as they say...

HTPC cool, now you got me salivating...

I need to get some more sidework so I can start digging into one of those. Looking foward to see the updated pics. Let's see some of the HTPC as well.


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post #201 of 275 Old 06-26-2009, 12:12 PM - Thread Starter
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WORKSMANSHIP DISCLAIMER:
  • The two side columns are now in black/red/black/red. I plan on changing that where the entire column above chair rail is red, and black only below chair rail to match the rest of the walls.
  • Also I plan on taking the framed screen and one of the GOM fabric panels down to make some adjustments including the addition of two support bars for the screen frame and re-stretching some of the loose screen fabric at the bottom, and then re-stretching some of the FR-71 Black Fabric that's wrapped around the left fabric panels.
  • I also need to add some artwork and plexiglass on to the Arcade cabinet.
  • Last, when I regain my energy, I will be building an L-shaped bar that will run underneath the 5 pendant lights by the arcade cabinet.

Ok Enough talking....After 11 Months of Construction from Start (06/01/08) to Finish (05/01/09)...I can finally say the theater construction is 100% complete!

2 Initial teaser shots (front and back) - More Pics below:




Ok here are the remaining pictures of the progress since last March. For some reason I cannot find any of the images taken during the acoustic treatment for the main wall including bass traps. So you may not be able to notice the 2" JM814 insulation and the bass traps because they are covered with broad cloth black fabric and the staples are covered with thin trim moulding strips. However, I followed Bryan Pape's room analysis recommendations and did the 24"x17"x17" bass traps on either corners behind the false screen wall. If I find the pictures taken during the acoustic treatment phase of the main wall I will post them on this page.


For now here are all the other pictures in their right build order:



Picture of main wall through the open screen wall, as you can see the window is still open




Building removable Window Plug using the thin paticle board which is used to cover the back of cabinet. I also used the 3M adhesive spray to attach the insulation to it, then wrapped it with the same broad cloth fabric and stapled the back side facing outside.












NOW TO THE SCREEN FRAMING STAGE.
I framed a 2.37:1 screen using a 96" roll of acoustic transparent fabric similarly sold by SeymourAV and SMX. I used a 15 degree tilted cut and framed the screen at 132"x 55.6". I used 4x1 Poplar wood which is more like 3.5"x.75". I cut the corners and framed them the same way you build picture frames and cut door trim. Just simple 45 degree cuts in corners. Then I covered the 4 frame pieces with black velvet and then attached them using heavy duty L-shaped brackets. The screen is currently mounted onto the top 2x4 of the screenwall using 4 heavy duty swinging picture hooks, allowing me to swing the screen upwards if I ever need to get behind the screen wall. That being said, I think I rushed with building the screen, and there are a few minor issues that I plan to go back and address. One of them is regarding center support. I chose not to include 2 studs to support the screen, and I think this is why the screen's height is off by a little less than 1/4" in the center. The other thing I noticed after I built and install the GOM Fabric panels around the screen is that the screen fabric may need to be stretch out a bit and there are some wrinkles around the bottom. So bottom line I will probably need to take the screen down and make some adjustment to the screen's frame, fabric, and possible adjust one of the 4 GOM fabric panells. But the problems are so minor at this point, that I may never get to revisit the screen issues anytime in the near future. Its one of those imperfections that no one else other than you will notice.

What you see below is the complete frame prior to the screen fabric installation.









The only other "in-between" pictures that I did not take were the pictures showing the Fabric Frame builds for the screenwall. I failed to take any pictures because I was in a rush to get the screenwall finished before my uncle flew in to visit us. So I quickly build the frames out of 1x1 rips and wrapped them with GOM FR-71 black fabric and they turned out pretty good. I may need to go back and restretch the black fabric on a couple of the 4 panels, but it looks pretty darn good already as of now. I built two tall side panels to go on the right and left sides of the screen, and I also built two smaller frames for the bottom of the 11 foot wide screen.

BASS SHAKERS:
Last, I just want to share with you how I installed bass shakers under each of the 8 Coaster Showtime Seats. I used 3/4" OSB boards and cut it to size (I think 15" x 30") and I mounted the OSB board underneath each chair and put in 4 screws in each corner of the board into the chair's wood frame at the bottom. Then I installed the bass shakers onto the board using 4 small screws for each shaker. Let me tell you, I don't want to even know how a movie or a game would feel without those suckers underneath each chair. The bass shakers are truly the main attraction in my theater. Anyhow, what you are seeing in the pictures below, is the chair flipped over.









OK now that all the March through May progress photos are out of the way...

PLEASE ENJOY THE FINAL PHOTOS OF THE CEDAR PEAKS CINEMA! (Project duration 6/1/08 - 05/01/09)






























































That's All Folks!

If you are interested in seeing all 430 pictures of the constructions, start to finish, you can click on the link below to go to my Photobucket album

http://s234.photobucket.com/albums/e...008/?start=all

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post #202 of 275 Old 06-26-2009, 03:49 PM
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Hey Sam. Looks fantastic. Congratulations! You must be stoked to be finished.
I really like your room. The black and red really make it look like a theater.

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post #203 of 275 Old 06-26-2009, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GoCaboNow View Post

Hey Sam. Looks fantastic. Congratulations! You must be stoked to be finished.
I really like your room. The black and red really make it look like a theater.

Thanks dude, stoked in an understatement....the whole red/black theme was my vision going into the project, I am glad it turned out really great, better than what I had imagined. There is stilla little bit of work to do but I am taking a nice long break before I touch another power tool. Time to sit down and watch some movies for a change. Thanks again for the compliments.

-Sam

CEDAR PEAKS CINEMA (Now w/ 3D)

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post #204 of 275 Old 06-26-2009, 04:28 PM
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Yep, you earned them.

Keep a watch out for my final pics. I should be posting next week. I am done with the big stuff and just have little stuff left.

Location: Beaverton, Oregon

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post #205 of 275 Old 06-26-2009, 05:00 PM
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Wow, Sam. It all looks great! I love the finishing touches that you've done....that is exactly what separates good HTs from great HTs.

Did you have any inspiration for the black/red theme? I love the crisp lines you have. Congratulations.

John
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post #206 of 275 Old 06-27-2009, 03:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GoCaboNow View Post

Yep, you earned them.

Keep a watch out for my final pics. I should be posting next week. I am done with the big stuff and just have little stuff left.

Looking forward to seeing those pics, dont take too long like I did...problem is once I had my theater construction finished it took me almost 2 months to make the time to take pictures because I just wanted to relax and enjoy the theater for a few weeks before I did any more work

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post #207 of 275 Old 06-27-2009, 04:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Johnsteph10 View Post

Wow, Sam. It all looks great! I love the finishing touches that you've done....that is exactly what separates good HTs from great HTs.

Did you have any inspiration for the black/red theme? I love the crisp lines you have. Congratulations.

Thanks for the compliments John. I have always started with the red/black old fasioned diner/theater classic coca cola look. I just had to figure out how to plan out the colors whether it was chair rail lines, or vertical lines...etc.

As far as the finishing touches....my wife and I have been collecting all kinds of movie theater signage over the past year or so. We've picked up all kinds of signs, posters and shadow boxes from Blockbuster, Ross, BB&Byond, Target, WalMart, and a couple of festival/event booths that made custom signs and sold classic Coke signs. Once the theater was finished...it took us a few hours to decide where and how to put up all these signs and posters, but it turned out great.

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post #208 of 275 Old 06-27-2009, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

Looking forward to seeing those pics, dont take too long like I did...problem is once I had my theater construction finished it took me almost 2 months to make the time to take pictures because I just wanted to relax and enjoy the theater for a few weeks before I did any more work

Yeah, pretty much what I have been doing since April when I showed my first movie to friends. I get down there to do some work and before I know it the PJ is on and I am watching basketball or something.

Location: Beaverton, Oregon

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post #209 of 275 Old 06-28-2009, 10:28 PM
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how do you like the HTB lense with the RS20?
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post #210 of 275 Old 06-29-2009, 06:27 AM - Thread Starter
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how do you like the HTB lense with the RS20?

I should probably update my initial equipment post, I did sell my HTB-AR lens after comparing it to a c-stock corrected Panamorph UH380, which is the closest thing you can get to the new $3000 UH480 at almost 1/3rd the price. It's still a 5-element lens like the UH480 and has the same metal coating and fabric on the inside of the lens housing (same housing as the UH480) but unlike the old UH380, the C-stock lenses were redesigned to have the correct lens element with the tilted optics to eliminate the ghosting in the high contract digital projectors like the RS20 and improve brightness. About the only thing the corrected c-stock UH380 doesn't have over the new stock of UH480 is the new optics coating which supposedly improved overall brightness and sharpness. My JVC/Panamorph dealer in Colorado Springs was kind enough to drive all the way to Denver to demo both lenses side by side and I couldn't see a noticeable difference between the two, but it was obvious that either UH480 or corrected UH380 far surpassed the sharpness and brightness of the HTB lens. HTB makes a great lens for around $500, but for me I was willing to pay double to get nearly the same performance of a $3000 lens. I have never been happier with my decision...I do have to say that HTB's manual transport for around $200 or so is a great interim solution until I can justify spending more money on a panamorph motorized transport.

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