Stevens Home Theater - The Fun Begins - Page 10 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #271 of 486 Old 11-26-2009, 07:32 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
Thanks for the kind words achi. I have no regrets with the Cinema235 but then again, I have nothing to compare it to. I cannot say what difference a Stewart, DaLite or SMX screen would make. I have no complaints with it. The frame and velvet are very nice (IMO). AT screens are ideal. Sometimes I think about changing mine out to one just so I can mount my huge Klipsch RC-64 directly behind it to bring the speaker closer to the height of my main speakers. If you notice throughout my build thread, I've been able to find some great deals. The projector and the screen were the only two items that I paid full retail for. I don't know why but I just didn't want to spend over $500 for a screen, althought some suggest it is equally important as buying a good projector. Wish I could offer more advice, I just don't have any experience other than my own setup to compare it with. Good luck with your build. Be sure to document your own build thread.
youthman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #272 of 486 Old 01-13-2010, 07:16 PM
Member
 
usrsld's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 49
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'm looking at an electric Elite screen in a similar size as yours with a similar viewing distance (11') to use with a Panny AE4000. I'm trying to decide between the 103" (95 x 40) or the 115" (106 x 45). Just wondering about your thoughts on your screen size selection now that you've had your theater for a while. Wish you'd gone bigger or totally happy?
usrsld is offline  
post #273 of 486 Old 01-13-2010, 08:33 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
I do not feel that the 103" is lacking but I also would have liked to go larger (110") but the custom cabinet that I had built prevented me from doing so. If you have the room, I would say go for the 115". Since this was my first projection setup, I didn't know if the 103" would be too big. Not at all. It's great but larger would be even better if my room was just a few feet wider.
youthman is offline  
post #274 of 486 Old 01-14-2010, 05:56 AM
Member
 
usrsld's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 49
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks for the reply. BTW, your theater looks fantastic.
usrsld is offline  
post #275 of 486 Old 01-25-2010, 09:03 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
Today is a good day. I picked up a pair of Klipsch RS-35's to use as my side surrounds to turn my 5.1 into a 7.1 system. I have them temporarily sitting on bar stools slightly behind the front row and up a few feet above the listening area. My wife and kids went to bed so I haven't had a chance to turn it up but I can immediately tell they are going to make a huge difference in the movie experience. My rear speakers are mounted way too high for them to be heard properly. Most of the sound is shooting over my head, even in the front row. I'm thinking about removing the bookshelves from the back wall and replace it with a single RS-35 and place it lower and in the center of the wall.

Here are the new toys!



youthman is offline  
post #276 of 486 Old 01-26-2010, 06:58 AM
AVS Special Member
 
mn_hokie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 2,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Hey, were you using your rear surrounds to the back instead of the side in your 5.1 setup? If so, you'll definately notice an improvement. In the 5.1 setup, the rears should be to the sides. The speakers along the back wall are actually for 6.1 and 7.1.
mn_hokie is offline  
post #277 of 486 Old 01-26-2010, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
Yes I was. I bought the RB-35's first and since they are direct firing, I knew in a 7.1 they need to be in the back so I went ahead and mounted them there but on the receiver, hooked them up to the side surround output. Now I have wide dispersion (RS-35) speakers on the side and direct firing in the back (RB-35).
youthman is offline  
post #278 of 486 Old 01-26-2010, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
I had a chance to test out a few disks with the RS-35's. I can't believe how much I've been missing all this time. Sitting on the front row, the sound is very enveloping. It definitely adds a sense of realism in the ambience as well as for the surround effects. I can say for sure that the RB-35's that are mounted on my back wall are firing WAY over my head. I imagine I will be pulling them down, selling them and trying to find a single RS-35 to go on the center of the back wall. I really need a wide dispersion speaker for the back wall instead of using direct firing bookshelf speakers.

I believe I will mount the speaker somewhere in between the front and second row about 2 1/2' above the front row's ear level. Ear level on the bottom row is 3 1/2'. Most recommend having surrounds 2 - 3ft above the listening position puts it at around 6' from the floor.

With the help of Photoshop, I moved the speaker up showing what the new placement will look like mounted at 6'. Since there is a double glass door behind the curtain, I am having a friend weld a metal bracket that will mount to the wall just above the curtain. The bracket will have a pole that will extend downwards behind the curtain, then through the curtain to a flat plate that the speaker will mount to. It will look like the speaker is floating in the air. I tried to get it as close to scale as possible but it might be slightly lower than what I have shown in the photo below. The floor to the top of the curtain rod is 8'.



With the help of Photoshop, I moved the speaker up about 8 inches so that the bottom of the speaker is 6' from the ground.

youthman is offline  
post #279 of 486 Old 01-26-2010, 09:06 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
Happytobehere200's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Geneva, IL
Posts: 441
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Before you go and sell the rears can you temp mount them at the same height as the sides and see what you think. you might like the dispersion of having 2 rears vs. 1. Either way they should be at the same height as the sides.
Happytobehere200 is offline  
post #280 of 486 Old 01-26-2010, 09:19 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mn_hokie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 2,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 27
What I was always told was to have the rears be direct firing to mimic the front channels, and then go with bi or dipoles for the sides.
mn_hokie is offline  
post #281 of 486 Old 01-26-2010, 09:41 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
Thx for the suggestions. I have always heard that too Jason and that was my original plan. Back when I was originally trying to figure out where to mount the RB-35's, I drew up this.



To me, it seemed like the best choice would be to mount them up higher so I could put more space between them. If I moved the RB-35's the same height as the side surrounds (6' from the floor) they would be pretty close to the heads of the rear seats because they stick out so far from the wall.
youthman is offline  
post #282 of 486 Old 01-30-2010, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
I've sent some measurements to my friend in Alabama. He is going to weld me a mounting bracket that will mount on the wall just above the curtain, hang down behind the curtain on a pole and then exit through the curtain to a flat plate that the RS-35 will mount to. Once have it mounted, I can mount my other speaker to the wall and begin enjoying my new speakers.

Tonight began looking up AT (Acoustic Transparent) DIY Screens. Currently my RC-64 Center speaker is mounted above my screen, behind the top center panel of the false wall. I have it angled down towards the listening area. The good thing about having it there is you don't have to worry about having the heads of the front row block any of the sound coming from the center channel.



Here you can see how high my main speakers are and the center is behind the center panel above the screen. This is 4ft above the bottom part of my screen.



I am wondering how much different it would sound if I went with an AT Screen and mounted the center channel speaker behind the bottom part of the screen in line with the horns of my main speakers. This would put the center in line with the main speakers instead of being 4 feet higher than they are.

Most of the time, the dialog is anchored to the screen. Since I know where the speaker is, sometimes I can tell it's coming from above the screen. Most of the time, I don't notice it.

Just wanted to get some thoughts on it.
youthman is offline  
post #283 of 486 Old 02-02-2010, 03:31 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
Progress is small but significant to me. I FINALLY got around to installing the hinges on the two bottom doors of the false wall (one that is in front of the sub and the other that holds my media). I'm waiting for my friend to fabricate a custom wall mount for my RS-35 side surrounds so I can mount my newly acquired surrounds.
youthman is offline  
post #284 of 486 Old 02-03-2010, 10:42 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
Happytobehere200's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Geneva, IL
Posts: 441
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by youthman View Post

I've sent some measurements to my friend in Alabama. He is going to weld me a mounting bracket that will mount on the wall just above the curtain, hang down behind the curtain on a pole and then exit through the curtain to a flat plate that the RS-35 will mount to. Once have it mounted, I can mount my other speaker to the wall and begin enjoying my new speakers.

Tonight began looking up AT (Acoustic Transparent) DIY Screens. Currently my RC-64 Center speaker is mounted above my screen, behind the top center panel of the false wall. I have it angled down towards the listening area. The good thing about having it there is you don't have to worry about having the heads of the front row block any of the sound coming from the center channel.



Here you can see how high my main speakers are and the center is behind the center panel above the screen. This is 4ft above the bottom part of my screen.



I am wondering how much different it would sound if I went with an AT Screen and mounted the center channel speaker behind the bottom part of the screen in line with the horns of my main speakers. This would put the center in line with the main speakers instead of being 4 feet higher than they are.

Most of the time, the dialog is anchored to the screen. Since I know where the speaker is, sometimes I can tell it's coming from above the screen. Most of the time, I don't notice it.

Just wanted to get some thoughts on it.

So if you mount the center behind the screen you will get a better lock down on the center and won't have the same sense of localization you mentioned. you will however have other challanges where it may lock down too much to that center location. It's usually something you won't be able to determine until you try it. Some of this is because of the speakers some because of the room. There is no clear answer.

There are a couple of things you could try, if you'd like, as an alternative. I've seen configs with 2 centers (one on top and one on the bottom of the screen).

The other thing I think you need to take into account with all of these, especially the rears/sides, is whether or not you are going to add any of that treatment we disucssed earlier. If you have the time that might be a better palce to start before you start changing the config.

Just a thought.
Happytobehere200 is offline  
post #285 of 486 Old 02-03-2010, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
I definitely don't want to go with two centers. There are combing problems that come with doing that. You are probably right about doing treatments before a new screen. The current screen is doing well and the center channel too. You know how it is....you get to thinking, "I wonder if....". I guess it never ends. LOL. Thx for helping to keep my head on straight.
youthman is offline  
post #286 of 486 Old 02-03-2010, 11:56 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
Happytobehere200's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Geneva, IL
Posts: 441
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by youthman View Post

I definitely don't want to go with two centers. There are combing problems that come with doing that. You are probably right about doing treatments before a new screen. The current screen is doing well and the center channel too. You know how it is....you get to thinking, "I wonder if....". I guess it never ends. LOL. Thx for helping to keep my head on straight.

np. Just looking back at the pictures and thinking. Have you tried the mirror test with the center channel? You center is pretty high above the top of the screen so maybe the steep angle it is at makes sense but you might want to do the mirror test just to make sure.
Happytobehere200 is offline  
post #287 of 486 Old 02-03-2010, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
I have not tried the mirror test yet. The top panels are screwed in from the inside (don't ask). Needless to say the guy that built the cabinet did not do what he said he would do but that's another story.

I received some sketches back from my friend in Alabama that is going to construct the wall mount for the one RS-35 speaker that will be mounted over my curtain.











youthman is offline  
post #288 of 486 Old 02-04-2010, 10:00 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
Happytobehere200's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Geneva, IL
Posts: 441
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
very cool
Happytobehere200 is offline  
post #289 of 486 Old 02-10-2010, 09:25 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
I just received an early Valentines Day present from my wife!





My first impression out of the box is that it is very stylish, fits great in my hand and the touch screen is really sweet.

I installed the CD and went through the setup menu and very easily added my Yamaha RX-V1800 receiver, Panasonic AE3000u Projector and Lutron Maestro Lighting by simply selecting those items from drop down menus. The user interface that allows you to add Devices and create Activities (Watch TV, Listen to Music etc) seems pretty straight forward and intuitive. Once I added the devices, I clicked Update Remote and it syncs the software with the remote.

I took the remote into the HT to test it out and it works the receiver, projector and the lighting perfectly! I love it when things work like they are supposed to.

Unfortunately I can't really setup any activities since the Harmony One does not have the innate ability to control the PS3. I will be ordering the Harmony PS3 Adapter that will enable it to do so tomorrow.

I am TOTALLY pumped about this purchase. The touch screen is fabulous and it's great to finally have a remote where all of the buttons are illuminated for access in the dark. I can't wait to get the PS3 adapter so I can add the various activities (Watch DVD, Listen to Music) etc and have it make all of the settings and dim the lights at the press of one button. This totally bumped the coolness and functionality factor of my HT up several notches.

I will need to work in some sort of repeater for the lighting since the IR is in the back of the room and blocked by one of the theater seats. I have always been able to bounce the projector remote's IR signal off my projection screen and reflect it up to the projector. The Harmony One has no problems with this either.

If you have a HT and do not have a Universal Remote, go get you one today. It's totally worth the money spent on it.
youthman is offline  
post #290 of 486 Old 02-12-2010, 09:13 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
My friend is working on making the mounting bracket for the RS-35's this weekend. I was looking in the HT tonight to make sure everything is the way I want it before he welds the bracket together. I really need to have the bottom of the RS-35's at around 6ft off the floor since they will be right in the wallkway when you enter the room. I don't want someone to bang their face on it when they walk in. 6ft guys and taller will just need to duck (that's the way my projector is too).

THX.com recommends having the surrounds "2ft or higher" and Dolby.com says that side surrounds are "designed to be just above ear level to maximize ambience".

When sitting in the front row in a my usual semi-reclined position, my ears are 3ft from the ground. On the back row, my ears are at 4ft when in a semi-reclined position.

If I mount the RS-35's 6ft off the ground, that would make them 3ft above my ears, the center of the speaker would be basically around 3ft 4in above my ears and make them 2ft 4in above the back row.

When watching movies, I usually sit in the front row. My question is do you think the RS-35's be too high with the bottom of the speaker being mounted at 6ft off the ground? We could angle them downwards slightly but it will complicate the design a little bit.

Thanks for your input.
youthman is offline  
post #291 of 486 Old 02-12-2010, 10:31 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
I also need some advice on an inexpensive way to send an IR Repeated signal to my Lutron Maestro. The IR for the Maestro is on the back wall behind one of the theater seats. I can aim my Harmony One at my screen and it will bounce the IR off the screen and up to my projector but the angle isn't right for it to hit the IR sensor on the Lutron Maestro.

What would be an inexpensive way of getting the IR signal to the Maestro by pointing it to the front of the room? I see that Harmony sells an IR Extender System. Would this do the trick if I mounted the blaster in the top part of my false wall aiming towards the IR sensor on the back wall or do I need to use some sort of hard wire and a repeater? Any ideas are appreciated.
youthman is offline  
post #292 of 486 Old 02-13-2010, 10:02 AM
AVS Special Member
 
mn_hokie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 2,535
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by youthman View Post

My friend is working on making the mounting bracket for the RS-35's this weekend. I was looking in the HT tonight to make sure everything is the way I want it before he welds the bracket together. I really need to have the bottom of the RS-35's at around 6ft off the floor since they will be right in the wallkway when you enter the room. I don't want someone to bang their face on it when they walk in. 6ft guys and taller will just need to duck (that's the way my projector is too).

THX.com recommends having the surrounds "2ft or higher" and Dolby.com says that side surrounds are "designed to be just above ear level to maximize ambience".

When sitting in the front row in a my usual semi-reclined position, my ears are 3ft from the ground. On the back row, my ears are at 4ft when in a semi-reclined position.

If I mount the RS-35's 6ft off the ground, that would make them 3ft above my ears, the center of the speaker would be basically around 3ft 4in above my ears and make them 2ft 4in above the back row.

When watching movies, I usually sit in the front row. My question is do you think the RS-35's be too high with the bottom of the speaker being mounted at 6ft off the ground? We could angle them downwards slightly but it will complicate the design a little bit.

Thanks for your input.

My surrounds are mounted right beside my back row, mainly because the midpoint between rows would be in a space where I couldn't mount them. What I did was split the difference in height based on the height of my riser. For example, if you were going to mount them at say 6 feet based on the back row, and the riser was 12 inches, mount them 6 inches lower than normal. Since you're not talking about direct firing speakers, I think you'll be find finding a happy compromise with the dipoles. The sound is dispersed so well to begin with that having them off axis a little isn't going to hurt anything.
mn_hokie is offline  
post #293 of 486 Old 02-15-2010, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
Thanks Jason. Shaun has finished making the mounting bracket for my surrounds and will be shipping it out tomorrow. I'm hoping to have everything installed this weekend.

I also ordered Master and Commander on BD. It too will be here by this weekend, just in time for some surround testing.
youthman is offline  
post #294 of 486 Old 02-16-2010, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
I received the Harmony PS3 Adapter today. It was a simple installation. Plugged in power cable, turned on PS3 and pushed sync button on the PS3 Adapter and it was up and running.

Back to the computer to setup my Activities. It took about 30 minutes to set everything up but now I have the hang of it (at least I think I do). LOL.

One time I hit the Watch DVD command and not all of my electronics came on. The help menu was sweet. It asked me if everything came on and I said no. It then turned my projector and Receiver on and asked if everything was now turned on and I said yes. Now it works like a charm.

I now have three Activities setup (Watch DVD, Play a Game and Listen to Music).

The PS3 Adapter now allows me to operate the PS3.

The only problem that I have is that my IR sensor for my Lutron lighting system is at the back of the room, behind one of my theater chairs. I need to get some form of repeater that will send the IR signal to the Lutron Maestro so that when I hit Watch Movie, the last thing it does is dim the light.

All in all, I am very pleased with the One remote. Thanks to a previous poster, I found out I can easily assign commands to the hard buttons as well as reorder the buttons on the touch screen to move my most used buttons to the front page.
youthman is offline  
post #295 of 486 Old 02-17-2010, 05:15 AM
AVS Special Member
 
In2Photos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Monroe, NC
Posts: 1,980
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I use this IR repeater in my bedroom. Works great!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...9N82SQAS5D9T8Q

Mike

Where am I with my HT build?

Still Dreaming! But I built a shed!
In2Photos is offline  
post #296 of 486 Old 02-17-2010, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
Thanks for the link Mike. That is definitely a more economical solution than the one my AV friend recommends.
youthman is offline  
post #297 of 486 Old 02-19-2010, 08:34 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
Since I have a sliding glass door right where my side surrounds need to be, my friend Shaun (same guy that helped me build my riser) built me a custom speaker mount and shipped it to me. It came in a few days ago and I decided to tackle mounting the side surrounds tonight.

Here is a shot of the bracket that Shaun built out of steel. It is very sturdy, yet lightweight. Since he is an engineer and I'm sooo not a handyman, not only did he build the bracket for me, he mailed me all of the hardware (screws, anchors, washers, bumpers, bolt, mason drill bit since I would be drilling into concrete and even a complete set of instructions and diagrams).




The plan was to re-route my speaker wire and feed it down the bracket.




We didn't want the speaker to get scratched from the mount so we decided on using plastic bumpers.




I placed 8 plastic bumpers around the edges of the bracket.




In order to get a flush mount, I removed the Keyhole Bracket on the back of the speaker.




I used one 4" long, 1/4" 20 bolt to secure the speaker to the bracket.




Here is a shot of the speaker mounted to the bracket.




Since the theater room walls are exterior walls, behind the sheetrock I have 1/2" space, then concrete block. I used three 5/16" x 2-1/2" Hex Sleeve Anchors to secure the mount to the wall.




When I originally ran my surround wires, I didn't know where exactly I was going to put them so we installed terminals. The speaker ended up being mounted a few feet to the left of the terminal so I drilled a hole in the back of the mount so that the speaker wire could come out of the wall and into the mount for a stealth install. Well...I ran into a snag when I drilled into the wall and hit wood. Top screw and bottom two screws went into the gap and then concrete but apparently I somehow mounted the bracket around the wood. I drilled two holes and still hit wood so I ended up having to drill a small hole above the bracket and fish the wire over to the hole, then grab it with needle nose pliers to pull it through (it was a tedious process to say the least). I removed the white jacket after pulling it through the hole since the red and black shielding would blend into my decor better than the white would.




I'll probably replace the terminal with a black cover and will puddy the hole and paint around it, maybe paint the nuts and washer black too.




And here are the final shots of the speaker installed over my sliding glass door.







The other speaker was supposed to be an easy install since I only need to move the speaker wire over like I did with the first speaker and use an anchor and screw to secure the speaker to the wall since it has a keyhole bracket on the back of the speaker.....until I hit a vertical strip of wood (forget what they call it). This means I'll have to make a trip into the attic and pull the wire back up and move it over one cell and drop it down to the speaker. I'm saving that for another day.

Overall, I'm very pleased with how the mount turned out. I wish I could have mounted it a tad lower but wanted to mount just above 6' to prevent someone from banging their head on it. Hopefully it will be low enough and sound great.
youthman is offline  
post #298 of 486 Old 02-26-2010, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
I knew when I purchased the RS-35's that I would always be curious how the RS-52's would compare since the RS-35's are from a different (older) series and the RS-52's are matched with my other speakers.

Low and behold I came a cross a good deal on a pair of RS-52's and picked them up. It took some time to re-route the speaker wires since I decided to position the speakers in between the front and back row. Last night, me and a friend of mine spent a few hours trying to re-route my left surround (boy was it a booger). We ran into a few problems but eventually was able to fish the wire on the other side of the fern strip.

Here are some shots of them mounted in their new home.

Klipsch RS-52's



RS-52's with grills off


RS-52 rear. They have a keyhole mount and two threaded inserts.





Left side surround mounted





Right side surround mounted







I have only had a chance to briefly test the RS-52's but my initial impression is that they are a huge improvement over the RB-35's since they are much closer to ear level. Now that I have the RS-35's and RS-52's, I believe I will move the RS-35's to the back surround and sell the RB-35 bookshelf speakers and mounts.

If I do mount the RS-35's on the back wall, they will be closer together so that I can mount them a few feet lower, in line with the RS-52's.

In the brief time I had the RS-35's mounted on the side walls and the brief time I've had the RS-52's mounted on the side walls, I don't hear a huge difference between the two speakers. I watched the first battle in Master and Commander and the surround effects are insane! Since my RB-35's are mounted up so high on the back wall, I was missing out on a lot of surround effects. The RS-52's appear to be smoother and more refined than the RS-35's but I believe both of them are great speakers for surrounds.

I'm REALLY not looking forward to re-routing the speaker wire for the back surrounds but it "should" be easier since it is not on an exterior wall. We'll save that project for another weekend.
youthman is offline  
post #299 of 486 Old 03-01-2010, 02:33 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
Happytobehere200's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Geneva, IL
Posts: 441
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Sweet look. Very creative. Now what if you spray paint the exposed part of the hanger from black to red?
Happytobehere200 is offline  
post #300 of 486 Old 03-03-2010, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
youthman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plant City, Fl
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 156
Yeah, I thought about making some type of cover to mount over the exposed wire and top part of the metal mounting bracket. Not sure yet. Most people never look that high up so I might not bother with it.
youthman is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off