My Ridiculously Inexpensive Dedicated KICK *** Home Theater! <<The Sequel>> - Page 6 - AVS Forum
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post #151 of 362 Old 01-01-2009, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koach View Post

just twist the speaker wires together and wrap with electrical tape. you won't notice any difference in sound.

+1 Like I posted earlier. You can solder, use crimp connectors, and all kinds of other stuff, but for what you are doing simply twisting the leads together and using electrical tape is sufficient. The other methods are great but in your situation IMHO they are overkill.

That looks like a nice shelf. I may get a set of those to use in my little room redo.

Regards,

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post #152 of 362 Old 01-01-2009, 10:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Unfortunately the center speaking mounting on the shelf was a disaster! There was not a single stud in any of the mounting locations for the shelf bracket. I figured no problem I'll used the supplied wall anchors as the speaker is only 13 pounds. I meticulously centered the shelf and mounted it. Immediately upon placing the speaker on the shelf, it sagged noticeably downward. I checked the bracket and it was solid, it must be flexing that is occurring within the shelf between it and the mounting bracket. I had mounted another bracketless shelf using only wall anchors in the computer area and that one is solid as a rock. That shelf was a different style though it used the same type of mounting bracket.

I felt very uncomfortable and uninstalled it. An hour later, a ton of patching and painting and I am back to where I started and keeping it that way. I was happy with it anyway.

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post #153 of 362 Old 01-01-2009, 11:38 PM - Thread Starter
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What do you guys think about building a riser to raise my seating about 10-12 inches off the floor? I can't lower the screen and as many have pointed out it is mounted a bit high. Wouldn't a riser solve all my problems and add a cool touch to the theater?

Most risers I see are built against a back wall, mine would be free standing about 10 feet back from the screen wall. Any issues?

Also any advice on how to build it? I read some things and it seems straight forward, as usual the more feedback I get the less daunting it seems. I would only need a single level riser as this is not for adding more rows of seating. Though I guess that possibility starts to become more real with a riser..........

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post #154 of 362 Old 01-02-2009, 03:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Just a couple of photos viewed from the seats of the new area rug in place:




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post #155 of 362 Old 01-02-2009, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docprego View Post

Any issues with wire nuts or simply braiding the two together? Just looking to hear several opinions.

Wire buts are generally used for solid wire. For stranded wire it is best to use crimp style connectors or solder and tape.
Quote:
Originally Posted by koach View Post

just twist the speaker wires together and wrap with electrical tape. you won't notice any difference in sound.

Don't do this! Seriously, why spend all the time to make a room nice and then half-ass extend the speaker wire? Yeah, you may never have problems. But does it take that much effort to do it properly? I mean, a crimp style butt connector takes maybe 10 seconds to use. Solder and tape (although I prefer heat shrink) takes maybe a minute. Both solutions will likely NEVER fail.

Mike

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post #156 of 362 Old 01-02-2009, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos View Post

Wire buts are generally used for solid wire. For stranded wire it is best to use crimp style connectors or solder and tape.

Don't do this! Seriously, why spend all the time to make a room nice and then half-ass extend the speaker wire? Yeah, you may never have problems. But does it take that much effort to do it properly? I mean, a crimp style butt connector takes maybe 10 seconds to use. Solder and tape (although I prefer heat shrink) takes maybe a minute. Both solutions will likely NEVER fail.

Unless your having your wires twisted by an animal with no opposable thumbs, or live in an area that has constant earthquakes, that twisted wire isn't going to come undone. Sure, butt connectors or solder are better, but IMO overkill.


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post #157 of 362 Old 01-04-2009, 12:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Some screenshots of the PT-AX200U on the 120" Elite Cinewhite screen.







































(RTROSE I came through!)

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post #158 of 362 Old 01-04-2009, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docprego View Post

Some screenshots of the PT-AX200U on the 120" Elite Cinewhite screen.


(RTROSE I came through!)


Yes you did! Those are some excellent looking screen shots. If by most your screen shots are not as good as what you see in person (typically the case) the image you see should in person should be phenomenal. Excellent. Very good work. Oh and thank you for finally coming through. I knew you would eventually!

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post #159 of 362 Old 01-05-2009, 06:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Yes you did! Those are some excellent looking screen shots. If by most your screen shots are not as good as what you see in person (typically the case) the image you see should in person should be phenomenal. Excellent. Very good work. Oh and thank you for finally coming through. I knew you would eventually!

Regards,

RTROSE

True, the images in person are definitely better. Still they give you a good idea of what I am seeing. Now the impact of 120", well you don't get that in the photos. :-)

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post #160 of 362 Old 01-05-2009, 09:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I set up the Next Generation remote extenders tonight. They are simply amazing. Once setup, which was very easy, the remotes function exactly as if they were RF remotes. I am able to sit in my Berklines with the equipment directly behind me and control everything with ease. What more can I say, they work perfectly.

Highly recommended!

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post #161 of 362 Old 01-06-2009, 06:00 AM
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Looking good docprego,

Those screen shots look great.

If your still thinking about building a riser, you may want to keep it at about 8" this way you wouldn't have to build a step for it and can simply make a basic rectangle for it. Anything taller than 8" and you'll need a step. Good luck.


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post #162 of 362 Old 01-06-2009, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docprego View Post

What do you guys think about building a riser to raise my seating about 10-12 inches off the floor? I can't lower the screen and as many have pointed out it is mounted a bit high. Wouldn't a riser solve all my problems and add a cool touch to the theater?

Most risers I see are built against a back wall, mine would be free standing about 10 feet back from the screen wall. Any issues?

Also any advice on how to build it? I read some things and it seems straight forward, as usual the more feedback I get the less daunting it seems. I would only need a single level riser as this is not for adding more rows of seating. Though I guess that possibility starts to become more real with a riser..........

check my build thread for a simply and yet functional riser. You might want to try paint cans and other stuff to test a mockup before deciding on the final height. Mine is 10in high floating holding my 3 back seats.


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post #163 of 362 Old 01-06-2009, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docprego View Post

Some screenshots of the PT-AX200U on the 120" Elite Cinewhite screen.







































(RTROSE I came through!)

Beautiful HT! I have to say though, that is the crappy collection of movies I have ever seen in my life!
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post #164 of 362 Old 01-06-2009, 12:11 PM
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^^^^ well you know what they say about opinions......

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post #165 of 362 Old 01-06-2009, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericthemidget View Post

Beautiful HT! I have to say though, that is the crappy collection of movies I have ever seen in my life!

Well you can't please everyone with your screen shot selection. I was just happy to get some screen shots since I had waited for so long. I would have been have with a screen shot of DVD Essentials!

Keep it up!

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post #166 of 362 Old 01-06-2009, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericthemidget View Post

Beautiful HT! I have to say though, that is the crappy collection of movies I have ever seen in my life!

I rented 3 Blu-rays for testing and that was the best of the material on them. What can I say, beggars can't be choosers. The movies might be mediocre but the screenshots were the point.

Thanks for the compliment on the HT anyway.

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post #167 of 362 Old 01-06-2009, 05:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Looking good docprego,

Those screen shots look great.

If your still thinking about building a riser, you may want to keep it at about 8" this way you wouldn't have to build a step for it and can simply make a basic rectangle for it. Anything taller than 8" and you'll need a step. Good luck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xmenxmenxmen View Post

check my build thread for a simply and yet functional riser. You might want to try paint cans and other stuff to test a mockup before deciding on the final height. Mine is 10in high floating holding my 3 back seats.

Nah I scratched the riser idea. I viewed the screen from 10 inches higher than normal and it just didn't feel right. Then I used the lens shift to move the image down on my wall and WOW. I can't explain it but my immersion in the movie was amplified by a huge amount, it just felt right-it felt cinematic. Mounted the original way it just doesn't feel right, riser or not.

I am about 10 minutes from taking the screen down and remounting it a lower height. The only issue is that this will leave some of the window exposed, if you recall I mounted the screen at that height to conceal the window. The bonus is that it will allow me to install screen wall curtains to conceal that exposed window (actually blackout cloth covered window). While I am at it I am going to put curtains on the left and right of the screen as well. So the screen will be almost totally surrounded in curtains except for beneath it. The curtain color I chose is burgundy in a velvet material. I thought about black but wanted to add some pizazz to the room.

Opinions wanted:

The screen wall curtains can go from ceiling height to floor completely covering the wall. But I am planning on putting crown molding in the room. Should I just put crown up on the other 3 walls and leave the screen wall as curtains only? Or do I mount the screen wall curtains lower beneath crown molding? I am actually leaning towards the first scenario as I think crown with a curtain rod just beneath it will look odd.

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post #168 of 362 Old 01-06-2009, 05:51 PM
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My vote is for the curtain with out the crown, and crown on the other three walls. I agree with you that a rod underneath the crown would look odd.

Regards,

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post #169 of 362 Old 01-06-2009, 10:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

My vote is for the curtain with out the crown, and crown on the other three walls. I agree with you that a rod underneath the crown would look odd.

Regards,

RTROSE

Thank RT I am leaning that direction heavily.

Great news! I moved the screen down tonight and I am thrilled with it! Please note that the photo makes the screen look a bit higher than it actually is now.



Now to concentrate on the curtain quest. I need a valence to go across the top and conceal all that ugly blackout cloth that moving the screen exposed. I also need matching 108" curtains to go from ceiling to floor on the left and right of the screen. I am looking for all of this in burgundy velvet.

Another opinion wanted: Will the light shelves/speaker stands look odd with curtains directly behind them? I am not sure but if they do I could always go back to my standard speaker stands.

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post #170 of 362 Old 01-07-2009, 04:05 AM
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I don't think it will look strange to have the light stands in front of the curtains. Rather it should look pretty classy actually.

The screen does "look" better mounted lower and I'm glad it has worked out for you as far as your viewing pleasure.

I thought you were going to move your speakers? Moving your speakers up might have the same effect sonically as moving the screen down did visually. You never know.

Regards,

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post #171 of 362 Old 01-07-2009, 06:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

I don't think it will look strange to have the light stands in front of the curtains. Rather it should look pretty classy actually.

The screen does "look" better mounted lower and I'm glad it has worked out for you as far as your viewing pleasure.

I thought you were going to move your speakers? Moving your speakers up might have the same effect sonically as moving the screen down did visually. You never know.

Regards,

RTROSE

When I had the center speaker shelf disaster I decided to leave the speakers so that they would be closer to the same height as the center.

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post #172 of 362 Old 01-07-2009, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Just got home from Bed Bath and Beyond with the curtains. I got burgundy velvet as I had hoped. Here is the actual curtain and color I purchased:

http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/prod...OL=514&RN=128&

The great news is that they were on clearance. I'll post pics as soon as I have them up.

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post #173 of 362 Old 01-07-2009, 08:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I am running into my first issue with the curtains. I want them to lie no further off the wall then the screen does. The problem is that solid mounting brackets for a curtain pole are about 3" deep, the screen projects 1.5" approximately. My goal is to have the upper curtains end on top of the screen out of view, which is good because I am going to have to cut down 84" panels to about 20" to do this and I am sure the edges will not be perfectly even.

Tonight I did find a good bracket that is only about 2.5 deep, but I couldn't find a wide enough pole. The pole needs to be 139". Initially I bought a pole and bracket set at Lowes, the pole extends to 144" so no problem there. But the brackets were 3 3/4 deep!

Any suggestions?

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post #174 of 362 Old 01-07-2009, 08:53 PM
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Maybe I missed it but what does this ridiculously cheap theater room add up too?
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post #175 of 362 Old 01-07-2009, 09:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triaxtremec View Post

Maybe I missed it but what does this ridiculously cheap theater room add up too?

Great question but before I add everything up, should I include the cost of items I reused from my original ridiculously inexpensive HT?

FYI: my first RIDKAHT rang in at around $3000 give or take a few hundred, I can't exactly remember.

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post #176 of 362 Old 01-07-2009, 09:30 PM
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Sure, feel free to add in the stuff you reused. I'm in the process of building my theater as well and was curious if mine is going to cost more or less than yours. You set up is very nice and well done for a great cost.
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post #177 of 362 Old 01-07-2009, 09:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Sure, feel free to add in the stuff you reused. I'm in the process of building my theater as well and was curious if mine is going to cost more or less than yours. You set up is very nice and well done for a great cost.

Thank you, it is certainly a labor of love.

Here is a rundown of everything in the room, I'll list the computer area separately as it won't apply to many people. (R) indicates reused from the previous HT, (N) is new to this HT

Computer Area:

(R)Used 20" iMac $600
(R)USed 20" Apple Cinema Display $200
(N)Desk $199
(R)Chair $180
(N)Pair of floating shelves, $40

Total computer area cost: 1219

Home Theater

(N)Audio rack $179
(N)Popcorn stand/cabinet $169
(N) Set of 3 Berkline power recliners $1279 delivered but $200 cashback is coming my way in 7 days from the Microsoft Cashback deal, net cost $1079
(N)Panasonic PT-AX200U $899 ($999 sale price -10% PayPal coupon I had at the time)shipped, again $200 cashback is coming my way on this one. Net cost $699 WOW!
(N)Elite 120" EZ Frame screen $460 shipped, once again I bought this when the cashback deal was going on, I am due $138 on this one for a net cost of $322
(N)A pair of lamps/speaker stands from target $140
(N)Arear rug from Lowes $99
(R)Sony PS3, paid $399 about a year and a half ago
(R)Panasonic SA-XR55 receiver, paid $199 2 years ago
(R)Advent 7 channel speaker system, paid $in the ballpark of $250 2 years ago (what a deal that was)
(N)Pair of Next generation remote extenders, $68
(R)Four piece of 3D theater art from Bed Bath and Beyond $120
(N)Velodyne VC-10 subwoofer, $129 on sale at Fry's.
(N)Ceiling fan, $239

Total HT cost: $3012. Wow I had no idea I spent so little overall. That is either less than or close to the same as my original HT. But this one is better in so many ways, like power seats and a professional screen (DIY in the old one).

My Ridiculously Inexpensive Dedicated Kick *** Home Theaters!

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post #178 of 362 Old 01-07-2009, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by docprego View Post

Well I am running into my first issue with the curtains. I want them to lie no further off the wall then the screen does. The problem is that solid mounting brackets for a curtain pole are about 3" deep, the screen projects 1.5" approximately. My goal is to have the upper curtains end on top of the screen out of view, which is good because I am going to have to cut down 84" panels to about 20" to do this and I am sure the edges will not be perfectly even.

Tonight I did find a good bracket that is only about 2.5 deep, but I couldn't find a wide enough pole. The pole needs to be 139". Initially I bought a pole and bracket set at Lowes, the pole extends to 144" so no problem there. But the brackets were 3 3/4 deep!

Any suggestions?

You could get some metal "L" brackets from Lowes and using metal screws screw the bracket to the rod or do what my wife did when she needed to keep a curtain rod from moving and use velcro to hold it to the "L" bracket. You could paint the bracket the same color as your paint or paint the same as the curtains so it would blend in.

Just a thought.

Regards,

RTROSE


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post #179 of 362 Old 01-08-2009, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docprego View Post

Well I am running into my first issue with the curtains. I want them to lie no further off the wall then the screen does. The problem is that solid mounting brackets for a curtain pole are about 3" deep, the screen projects 1.5" approximately. My goal is to have the upper curtains end on top of the screen out of view, which is good because I am going to have to cut down 84" panels to about 20" to do this and I am sure the edges will not be perfectly even.

Tonight I did find a good bracket that is only about 2.5 deep, but I couldn't find a wide enough pole. The pole needs to be 139". Initially I bought a pole and bracket set at Lowes, the pole extends to 144" so no problem there. But the brackets were 3 3/4 deep!

Any suggestions?

There are several things you could try.

First have you considered mounting the brackets to the ceiling instead of the wall? Some brackets have set screws that will hold the rod to the bracket even when placed vertically.

Alternatively you could use a dowel rod. They are available in the lumber section in variable sizes. They might have one long enough for your needs. Or you could maybe use one rod for each section. To mount the rod you could simply screw it to the wall where each panel meets. Don't screw it completely tight so that you still have room to slide the panels around.

Mike

Where am I with my HT build?

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post #180 of 362 Old 01-08-2009, 06:45 AM - Thread Starter
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There are several things you could try.

First have you considered mounting the brackets to the ceiling instead of the wall? Some brackets have set screws that will hold the rod to the bracket even when placed vertically.

Alternatively you could use a dowel rod. They are available in the lumber section in variable sizes. They might have one long enough for your needs. Or you could maybe use one rod for each section. To mount the rod you could simply screw it to the wall where each panel meets. Don't screw it completely tight so that you still have room to slide the panels around.

Thanks for those ideas. Lowes did have a bracket which would work but they did not have a rod long enought that would fit in the support channels of the bracket. You're idea to use a dowel might be the solution. I could get a dowel thick enough to be supportive that will fit the bracket. Metal pipe might work too but I guess that would be a lot heavier and much more difficult to cut.

My Ridiculously Inexpensive Dedicated Kick *** Home Theaters!

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