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post #1 of 362 Old 10-21-2008, 10:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Well after a long time enjoying my current theater it is time to start a new thread to document the creation of my new one. My original theater was chronicled in this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=718621

While I enjoyed creating my HT and then enjoyed using it immensely, an opportunity has arisen that was too good to pass up. In my original theater I had a 10 x 12 space to work with. Within the last 5 days I have gained access to a new space that is 11 x 15!

The major changes for the new theater include:

1-Dramatically increased screen size. I'll be going from 89" diagonal to somewhere between 120" and 140"!

2-New projector! I need something that can throw that big of an image from about 14-15 feet and maintain good brightness. I really want to go 1080p but as always the budget has other ideas. So I may opt for the Panasonic PT-AX200U which I know to be a very bright and excellent 720p projector.

3. Adding more seating and changing from leather to microfiber. In the original RIDKAHT I had seating for 2, in this room there is space to add another row. The front row would be fairly close to the screen so it is not ideal, but at least I could seat more than 2.

4. Paint! I left the walls the color they were in the first RIDKAHT.

5. Popcorn machine!

There are many other changes to come, but those are the major differences compared to the original room.

Here are some photos of the new space and my HT gear scattered about:



The new screen wall. The green outline is for a 120" screen. The smaller green marks beyond that represent a 135" screen, probably too big-I am going with the 120". I am going to put blackout cloth over that blind so that light is not an issue behind the screen. From the outside of the house the window will still look normal, just like a closed blind. A major benefit of this is that it is totally reversible for the future.



Here is a shot with the old 89" screen visible on the left. You can really see the increase in size, this is going to be major, 89" ---->120"!



All my gear from the original HT. I am going to reuse all of the audio gear but my sub croaked recently so it needs to be replaced. The projector and of course the screen are history! I am going for a manufactured screen, probably the Elite EZ Frame 120", unless someone has a better suggestion.



In this shot you can see all of the furniture from the old HT. It's all history! I'm putting it all on Craig's List. I want a totally new look for the new desk and rack and I am going with microfiber seating (4 seats this time!). You can also see the rear of the room in this shot with double sliding doors on a closet and the room entry on the right.



Just picked this up on clearance at Blockbuster yesterday for $9.99. What a bargain-a framed (and nicely) piece of movie art. This is not a regular generic poster, these framed pieces at Blockbuster feel and look like paintings, they are super nice. I am going to pick up a bunch more over the next week or two.

So that's it for now, there will be regular updates to this thread as I make changes and things start to happen. I am looking forward to your suggestions and comments.

My Ridiculously Inexpensive Dedicated Kick *** Home Theaters!
RIDKAHT <The Original>
RIDKAHT <<The Sequel>>
RIDKAHT <<<Part III>>>
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post #2 of 362 Old 10-22-2008, 06:08 AM
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Never posted in your other thread but followed your chronicles closely. I can say i will be watching your progress just as closely with the sequel. I know they say bigger is better but the outline for the 120" screen "looks" about right for the space.

My wife says I only think about my stomach and she must be right because the addition to your new theater I was most interested in was the popcorn machine! Keep us posted with lots of photos and good luck in the progress of the sequel.

Regards,

RTROSE

My (slower than molasses) HT build here.
Now a Certified Carpet Counselor and Plumbing Counselor (Self given titles - pay no attention).
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post #3 of 362 Old 10-22-2008, 07:43 AM
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Out of curiosity, why are you switching to microfiber? I live in the desert and microfiber + low humidity= static electricity. Enough to zorch 3 DVD players and two tape decks. I'm switching my microfiber couch out for a leather one. Just a thought.

I used to have an open mind but my brains kept falling out.
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post #4 of 362 Old 10-22-2008, 04:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by fanbrain View Post

Out of curiosity, why are you switching to microfiber? I live in the desert and microfiber + low humidity= static electricity. Enough to zorch 3 DVD players and two tape decks. I'm switching my microfiber couch out for a leather one. Just a thought.

I too live in the desert, Las Vegas. I am not at all happy with the comfort level of leather. The seats I have are comfortable, it is just that I don't like leather.

My Ridiculously Inexpensive Dedicated Kick *** Home Theaters!
RIDKAHT <The Original>
RIDKAHT <<The Sequel>>
RIDKAHT <<<Part III>>>
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post #5 of 362 Old 10-22-2008, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Never posted in your other thread but followed your chronicles closely. I can say i will be watching your progress just as closely with the sequel. I know they say bigger is better but the outline for the 120" screen "looks" about right for the space.

My wife says I only think about my stomach and she must be right because the addition to your new theater I was most interested in was the popcorn machine! Keep us posted with lots of photos and good luck in the progress of the sequel.

Regards,

RTROSE

Thanks! This should be a really fun project. I am looking to make it feel much more theater like than the original RIDKAHT. The paint should go a long way towards this end. Also having 2 rows of seating is sure to help. Oh yeah that enormous screen might make it feel more authentic too.

I wanted a popcorn machine in the original HT but I just had not a single square inch of space for anything else. Compared to that the new room feels gigantic!

My Ridiculously Inexpensive Dedicated Kick *** Home Theaters!
RIDKAHT <The Original>
RIDKAHT <<The Sequel>>
RIDKAHT <<<Part III>>>
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post #6 of 362 Old 10-22-2008, 09:58 PM - Thread Starter
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OK people I am officially asking for help. I want to paint this HT but I have no idea which direction to take this. Any suggestions with supporting pics would be very appreciated.

Also suggestions on furniture color to coordinate with paint schemes would be great.

Thanks!

My Ridiculously Inexpensive Dedicated Kick *** Home Theaters!
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RIDKAHT <<The Sequel>>
RIDKAHT <<<Part III>>>
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post #7 of 362 Old 10-23-2008, 02:04 PM
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Hey I have a suggestion regarding the colors of your HT. It is a suggestion close to my heart because it is the colors I am choosing for my HT. The colors are in the dark blue/gray area. Here is what I envision my theater looking like color wise anyway.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1065426 and here

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=683853

Regards,

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post #8 of 362 Old 10-25-2008, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok I am starting to make some progress in the research phase. Maybe I could get some of your input?

The first issue I need to resolve is whether to go with a 2.35:1 screen or a 16:9 screen. There are a couple of things to consider:

1. The window on my screen wall is 59.5 inches tall so the screen has to be taller than this in order to conceal the window. Actually the screen needs to be a bit taller to account for the fact that I need to hang it a bit above the window, can't attach a wall hanger to glass! So I figure I need about a 63 inch height at a minimum to get this done. With a 16:9 screen this would require me to purchase one that is 120" diagonal minimum. The Elite ezFrame screen that I am eyeing is 63.56 inches tall. That is great because I want that large of a screen anyway. But if I go 2.35:1 which is very tempting I will not be able to cover the full height of the window. A 138" Elite ezFrame screen is only 58.76 inches tall. That means I would somehow have to conceal the window above or below the screen where the screen itself would not cover the window. In both cases the screens are more than wide enough to cover the window from left to right. So obviously the 16:9 option is simpler, all I have to do is hang it over the window. But the 2.35:1 option is tempting because I cannot stand black bars and I could go with a CIH setup with the 2.35:1 screen. Finally another solution might be to track down an even larger 2.35:1 screen that would be taller than my required 63 inches approximately. Any suggestions on good quality fixed screens for reasonable prices? To give you an idea of what I think is reasonable, the 120" 16:9 screen will run me about $450. The 138" 2.35:1 is more at about $600, I am now out of reasonable territory. :-)

2. Which projector to go with? 720p or 1080p? Well in 720 the choices to me are clear, either the Panasonic PT-AX200U or the Sanyo PLV-Z60. Both are $999. The Sanyo is supposed to be much sharper, but the Panasonic much brighter. Since I have a fully light controlled room I think brightness is not a major issue. I am leaning towards the Sanyo as I prefer a razor sharp image.

But then what if I go 1080p? There is now the Sanyo PLV-1080HD which is a native 1080p projector for $1599, wow! Once again the concern with Sanyo is brightness as this pj is not as bright as the PLV-Z60 I mentioned above. Another option is the Panasonic PT-AE3000 which is $2499.99, starting to get out of my range....

3. Seating? 2 rows of 2? 1 ow of 3 in back with 1 row of 2 in front? A sectional? 2 sofas with recliners on both ends? Too many choices. One thing I know is that I want it to look theater like. I also want cupholders, and power recline would be a dream come true. I sat in some Palliser leather HT recliners last night with power recline. My wife and I both agreed they were the best HT seats (or any kind of seat for that matter) that we ever sat in. The seat color is another issue too because it needs to coordinate with the existing brown carpet and the paint scheme in the room, which leads me to.....

4. Paint. I have looked at dozens of photos and cannot come to a decision. If you have photos of your HT that clearly demonstrate the paint color you chose, could you please post a link to your HT in this thread?

5. Concession area! Build the counter myself or purchase something? I want it to have a popcorn machine (4 oz should be plenty) and a refrigerator. Other than that I am open to suggestions. Also can anyone recommend a reasonably prices compact refrigerator that is virtually silent? I don't want to hear a motor buzzing throughout the entire movie.

Thanks all, your ideas are very appreciated!

My Ridiculously Inexpensive Dedicated Kick *** Home Theaters!
RIDKAHT <The Original>
RIDKAHT <<The Sequel>>
RIDKAHT <<<Part III>>>
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post #9 of 362 Old 11-11-2008, 08:42 PM - Thread Starter
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OK I am few weeks down the road and have a lot of research under my belt. I am going to comment on some of my original comments below:
Quote:
Originally Posted by docprego View Post

Ok I am starting to make some progress in the research phase. Maybe I could get some of your input?

The first issue I need to resolve is whether to go with a 2.35:1 screen or a 16:9 screen. There are a couple of things to consider:

1. The window on my screen wall is 59.5 inches tall so the screen has to be taller than this in order to conceal the window. Actually the screen needs to be a bit taller to account for the fact that I need to hang it a bit above the window, can't attach a wall hanger to glass! So I figure I need about a 63 inch height at a minimum to get this done. With a 16:9 screen this would require me to purchase one that is 120" diagonal minimum. The Elite ezFrame screen that I am eyeing is 63.56 inches tall. That is great because I want that large of a screen anyway. But if I go 2.35:1 which is very tempting I will not be able to cover the full height of the window. A 138" Elite ezFrame screen is only 58.76 inches tall. That means I would somehow have to conceal the window above or below the screen where the screen itself would not cover the window. In both cases the screens are more than wide enough to cover the window from left to right. So obviously the 16:9 option is simpler, all I have to do is hang it over the window. But the 2.35:1 option is tempting because I cannot stand black bars and I could go with a CIH setup with the 2.35:1 screen. Finally another solution might be to track down an even larger 2.35:1 screen that would be taller than my required 63 inches approximately. Any suggestions on good quality fixed screens for reasonable prices? To give you an idea of what I think is reasonable, the 120" 16:9 screen will run me about $450. The 138" 2.35:1 is more at about $600, I am now out of reasonable territory. :-)

I have decided to go 16:9 with a 120" image size. This will make my life much easier as the screen will totally conceal the window I am dealing with. I have not found a better deal for the quality and size than the Elite EZframe white 120" screen. That looks to be my best option but I am open to suggestions.

2. Which projector to go with? 720p or 1080p? Well in 720 the choices to me are clear, either the Panasonic PT-AX200U or the Sanyo PLV-Z60. Both are $999. The Sanyo is supposed to be much sharper, but the Panasonic much brighter. Since I have a fully light controlled room I think brightness is not a major issue. I am leaning towards the Sanyo as I prefer a razor sharp image.


But then what if I go 1080p? There is now the Sanyo PLV-1080HD which is a native 1080p projector for $1599, wow! Once again the concern with Sanyo is brightness as this pj is not as bright as the PLV-Z60 I mentioned above. Another option is the Panasonic PT-AE3000 which is $2499.99, starting to get out of my range....

While I am 90% leaning towards the Panasonic PT-AX200U at this point, another contender has entered the picture. I am now looking at the Epson Home Cinema 720. The only issue I have with the Epson is that I am concerned about SDE. At my seating distance of 10 feet SDE may be an issue. Some people indicate at this distance the HC720 will show SDE, others have told me it is a non-issue, it is really hard to know what to believe. This is one of the main reasons I am leaning toward the Panasonic PT-AX200U so heavily, it has no SDE at all from pretty much any distance. The Sanyo PLV-1080HD is interesting because it is a native 1080p projector for a very reasonable price ($1599). SDE should be much less of an issue due to the size of the pixels, but brightness is my concern with my viewing parameters.

3. Seating? 2 rows of 2? 1 ow of 3 in back with 1 row of 2 in front? A sectional? 2 sofas with recliners on both ends? Too many choices. One thing I know is that I want it to look theater like. I also want cupholders, and power recline would be a dream come true. I sat in some Palliser leather HT recliners last night with power recline. My wife and I both agreed they were the best HT seats (or any kind of seat for that matter) that we ever sat in. The seat color is another issue too because it needs to coordinate with the existing brown carpet and the paint scheme in the room, which leads me to.....

I have decided to go with one row of 3 seats in a curved configuration. I am going with Berkline 12000 power recliners in a tan microsuede. I found a deal on these that I could not refuse. My dream of power reclining is finally coming true.

4. Paint. I have looked at dozens of photos and cannot come to a decision. If you have photos of your HT that clearly demonstrate the paint color you chose, could you please post a link to your HT in this thread?

Still all over the board on paint colors. I am considering olive green very heavily right now. Since the seats are tan and the carpet is taupe, I want something a bit distinct from either of those.

5. Concession area! Build the counter myself or purchase something? I want it to have a popcorn machine (4 oz should be plenty) and a refrigerator. Other than that I am open to suggestions. Also can anyone recommend a reasonably prices compact refrigerator that is virtually silent? I don't want to hear a motor buzzing throughout the entire movie.

Went to Lowes to investigate cabinets and countertops to build a concession area. Not really sure what I want to do here yet. I do have a few definite things that I know I want the concession area to have. These include a counter height refigerator (must be quiet!) and a countertop popcorn machine

Thanks all, your ideas are very appreciated!


My Ridiculously Inexpensive Dedicated Kick *** Home Theaters!
RIDKAHT <The Original>
RIDKAHT <<The Sequel>>
RIDKAHT <<<Part III>>>
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post #10 of 362 Old 11-11-2008, 10:28 PM
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I can't help you much on the paint, but if you're semi-good at building things I'd suggest building the concession area yourself. You'll save a ton of money and you'll be able to do whatever you want with it (make it fit a specific fridge - all you need to do is find the right quiet one). Of course that's entirely up to you.

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post #11 of 362 Old 11-11-2008, 10:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I can't help you much on the paint, but if you're semi-good at building things I'd suggest building the concession area yourself. You'll save a ton of money and you'll be able to do whatever you want with it (make it fit a specific fridge - all you need to do is find the right quiet one). Of course that's entirely up to you.

Thread subscribed.

Being brutally honest I don't think I am that good at building things. I mean I can put together things just fine but to come up with them from scratch is another story. I like the premanufactured cabinets I saw at Lowes Yesterday. They were available in all sorts of configurations, all 24 inches deep and 24.5 inches tall if I am remembering correctly. The refrigerators I looked at at Lowes were 23.5 inches tall, clearly with this cabinet height in mind. I was thinking about getting some of these cabinets, slapping a laminate countertop on them and the refrigerator under the counter. Then the popcorn machine would go on the countertop. I was even thinking about cutting the panel out of the cabinet door on one side and replacing it with glass/clear lexan to create a small candy display. Maybe even add some lighting in this candy display. Thanks for the feedback!

My Ridiculously Inexpensive Dedicated Kick *** Home Theaters!
RIDKAHT <The Original>
RIDKAHT <<The Sequel>>
RIDKAHT <<<Part III>>>
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post #12 of 362 Old 11-11-2008, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by docprego View Post

Being brutally honest I don't think I am that good at building things. I mean I can put together things just fine but to come up with them from scratch is another story. I like the premanufactured cabinets I saw at Lowes Yesterday. They were available in all sorts of configurations, all 24 inches deep and 24.5 inches tall if I am remembering correctly. The refrigerators I looked at at Lowes were 23.5 inches tall, clearly with this cabinet height in mind. I was thinking about getting some of these cabinets, slapping a laminate countertop on them and the refrigerator under the counter. Then the popcorn machine would go on the countertop. I was even thinking about cutting the panel out of the cabinet door on one side and replacing it with glass/clear lexan to create a small candy display. Maybe even add some lighting in this candy display. Thanks for the feedback!

Yeah getting the prefabricated cabinets and installing them is super easy. If you had a cabinet a gap and then another cabinet [cabinet]gap[cabinet] and put the fridge in the gap, you could put the fridge down there and then add a cabinet door or two in front of it. It would be an extra door to open to get to the fridge but it would help silence the fridge if it wasn't 100% quiet. That's all the 2 cents I'm giving out... If it doesn't work I don't want to hold the blame for ruining your theater.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naarmraifo View Post

Yeah getting the prefabricated cabinets and installing them is super easy. If you had a cabinet a gap and then another cabinet [cabinet]gap[cabinet] and put the fridge in the gap, you could put the fridge down there and then add a cabinet door or two in front of it. It would be an extra door to open to get to the fridge but it would help silence the fridge if it wasn't 100% quiet. That's all the 2 cents I'm giving out... If it doesn't work I don't want to hold the blame for ruining your theater.

Hahaha. no worries! I had the same thought; cabinet, refrigerator, cabinet. Finding a quiet fridge is proving to be a challenge because they are not running in store. I am going to have to go off recommendations on this forum exclusively I think.

Speaking of the prefabricated cabinets, how do you handle this; There is a floor molding running around the perimeter of my room. You can clearly see it in my photos above. Since this is sticking out a small amount how will I get the cabinets to sit flush against the wall? I am really hesitant to start removing the molding. I had a thought of cutting a notch out of the back of the cabinet which would allow it to sit flush, or is that a ridiculous plan? Any suggestions?

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RIDKAHT <The Original>
RIDKAHT <<The Sequel>>
RIDKAHT <<<Part III>>>
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post #14 of 362 Old 11-11-2008, 11:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok here is my really pathetic attempt at making a diagram of the room. Like I said it is really awful but I think it gets the point across.

Room dimensions are 11.5 feet wide by 15 feet deep. The room is 9 inches narrower toward the rear where the door opens.


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RIDKAHT <<The Sequel>>
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Hahaha. no worries! I had the same thought; cabinet, refrigerator, cabinet. Finding a quiet fridge is proving to be a challenge because they are not running in store. I am going to have to go off recommendations on this forum exclusively I think.

Speaking of the prefabricated cabinets, how do you handle this; There is a floor molding running around the perimeter of my room. You can clearly see it in my photos above. Since this is sticking out a small amount how will I get the cabinets to sit flush against the wall? I am really hesitant to start removing the molding. I had a thought of cutting a notch out of the back of the cabinet which would allow it to sit flush, or is that a ridiculous plan? Any suggestions?

Ah, that's a good question. I've never cut into the back of cabinets to make them fit a trim before, I've just cut a piece of the trim out so the cabinets fit into it. I don't know how badly that would affect the structural integrity of the cabinets - that's something I would inquire about at Lowes or HD, and see if their "cabinet experts" know. Someone on here might have run into this and know as well, but I think it's much more common to cut out the trim than cut into the cabinet. Are the sides of the cabinets going to be showing? If not you could just nail / glue a small piece of wood to the back of the cabinets about halfway up the wall so that they're brought out a bit. If the sides are going to be showing you'd have to find a way to hide it (if you wanted it hidden).
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Ah, that's a good question. I've never cut into the back of cabinets to make them fit a trim before, I've just cut a piece of the trim out so the cabinets fit into it. I don't know how badly that would affect the structural integrity of the cabinets - that's something I would inquire about at Lowes or HD, and see if their "cabinet experts" know. Someone on here might have run into this and know as well, but I think it's much more common to cut out the trim than cut into the cabinet. Are the sides of the cabinets going to be showing? If not you could just nail / glue a small piece of wood to the back of the cabinets about halfway up the wall so that they're brought out a bit. If the sides are going to be showing you'd have to find a way to hide it (if you wanted it hidden).

Sides will be showing, and thinking about it now the only logical thing to do is to remove the molding. For whatever reason that process sounds frightening to me. I guess I want modifications that are not permanent.

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post #17 of 362 Old 11-11-2008, 11:23 PM
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Sides will be showing, and thinking about it now the only logical thing to do is to remove the molding. For whatever reason that process sounds frightening to me. I guess I want modifications that are not permanent.

Now that I'm thinking about it more - if you really don't want to remove the molding (completely understandable) you could cut into the cabinets and then build a support inside the cabinets to support the back further up. It would be like a half arch inside the cabinet.

Or, if you do remove the molding just save it and if you ever have to sell your place put it back in (and paint over the spot where you cut it out).
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post #18 of 362 Old 11-12-2008, 12:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Naarmraifo View Post

Now that I'm thinking about it more - if you really don't want to remove the molding (completely understandable) you could cut into the cabinets and then build a support inside the cabinets to support the back further up. It would be like a half arch inside the cabinet.

Or, if you do remove the molding just save it and if you ever have to sell your place put it back in (and paint over the spot where you cut it out).

Good call. How would I remove a piece of molding without disturbing the rest of it?

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post #19 of 362 Old 11-12-2008, 12:54 AM
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Mark where you need to cut it with a pencil. Then use masking tape to tape on both sides of where you're going to cut it (this helps prevent cracking). Cut with a jig saw or depending on the thickness / material of the molding you could use a non-powered drywall saw. Then use a pry bar or a wedge to slowly pull the molding off the wall (I'm assuming it's nailed down - if it's glued down you're SOL).

I'd check with someone else before doing this though - I think it will work but I'm not 100% sure. Anyone else have thoughts on how to remove a solid trim molding?
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post #20 of 362 Old 11-12-2008, 12:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naarmraifo View Post

Mark where you need to cut it with a pencil. Then use masking tape to tape on both sides of where you're going to cut it (this helps prevent cracking). Cut with a jig saw or depending on the thickness / material of the molding you could use a non-powered drywall saw. Then use a pry bar or a wedge to slowly pull the molding off the wall (I'm assuming it's nailed down - if it's glued down you're SOL).

I'd check with someone else before doing this though - I think it will work but I'm not 100% sure. Anyone else have thoughts on how to remove a solid trim molding?

Thanks, I really don't have a clue if it is nailed or glued. The finish on it looks so uniform, not a nail in sight. Of course that could just be good patching and painting.

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post #21 of 362 Old 11-14-2008, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Just pulled the trigger on major purchase #1: the projector. I got the Panasonic PT-AX200U. Got it on eBay from an authorized seller for $699!!!!!! Well it was $899 after an instant coupon and then $200 in cash back through Microsoft and the Live.com rebate program. That was an offer too good to refuse!

This was one of my top contenders, so I didn't just settle based on price. I feel like I lucked out, got the one I wanted at a ridiculous price. I was all ready to order this from another vendor this weekend for $999.

VERY EXCITED!

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post #22 of 362 Old 11-14-2008, 08:09 PM
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FWIW,

I have done a lot of trim work and I can assure you even if the trim is glued down you can still remove it. The key to removing trim without breaking it is a lot of patience while carefully prying it off the wall. I have also used a very small hand saw to cut the trim where I needed to. The saw I use is like this one only I think it is a 6" vs. 10" check it out here.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...367&lpage=none

Good pick on the pj, sounds as though you got a great deal.

I have put in my share of cabinets too and as long as you don't cut out the entire back they will maintain their structural integrity. You could always brace on the inside above where you cut out to sure it up. But as posted above you could check with the experts to see what they have to say about it.

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post #23 of 362 Old 11-14-2008, 09:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

FWIW,

I have done a lot of trim work and I can assure you even if the trim is glued down you can still remove it. The key to removing trim without breaking it is a lot of patience while carefully prying it off the wall. I have also used a very small hand saw to cut the trim where I needed to. The saw I use is like this one only I think it is a 6" vs. 10" check it out here.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...367&lpage=none

Good pick on the pj, sounds as though you got a great deal.

I have put in my share of cabinets too and as long as you don't cut out the entire back they will maintain their structural integrity. You could always brace on the inside above where you cut out to sure it up. But as posted above you could check with the experts to see what they have to say about it.

Regards,

RTROSE

Thanks for the advice. One thing I am confused about, how do you cut the trim while it is on the wall? Won't you end up messing up the surrounding drywall?

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post #24 of 362 Old 11-14-2008, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docprego View Post

Thanks for the advice. One thing I am confused about, how do you cut the trim while it is on the wall? Won't you end up messing up the surrounding drywall?

Sorry should have continued with my description. I keep the blade of the saw parallel to the wall so I don't dig into it with the blade and when I am nearly through I take a very sharp utility knife and cut the rest of the way through the trim. I have on occasion used a metal taping knife (for dry wall) up against the wall to protect the paint and finish which works out well too, but I have cut so much trim in this way I have stopped using the taping knife. I only very rarely now scratch the wall with the saw much to the dismay of my wife but I have also gotten good at patching and touch up painting.

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post #25 of 362 Old 11-14-2008, 09:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Sorry should have continued with my description. I keep the blade of the saw parallel to the wall so I don't dig into it with the blade and when I am nearly through I take a very sharp utility knife and cut the rest of the way through the trim. I have on occasion used a metal taping knife (for dry wall) up against the wall to protect the paint and finish which works out well too, but I have cut so much trim in this way I have stopped using the taping knife. I only very rarely now scratch the wall with the saw much to the dismay of my wife but I have also gotten good at patching and touch up painting.

Regards,

RTROSE

Excellent, thanks for clearing that up. Do you think I could keep the removed piece and if necessary patch it back in sometime in the future to restore the room?

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post #26 of 362 Old 11-15-2008, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docprego View Post

Excellent, thanks for clearing that up. Do you think I could keep the removed piece and if necessary patch it back in sometime in the future to restore the room?

Most definitely you could keep the piece you remove. If you are like me and my house you'll carefully label and store the piece in the safe place and then forget where you stored it away.

If it is painted it is easy to caulk and paint the trim when you replace it. If it is stained you can still do it, it is just more difficult.

Good Luck!

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post #27 of 362 Old 11-16-2008, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Bad news! The concession area I want to build will protrude out too far into the theater. It will end up interfering with vision of the screen at the lower left corner when seated in the recliners. I am going to have to locate another spot in the room, or completely abandon the plan. I could move it to the closet at the rear of the room and remove the closet doors. I wanted to use that as an equipment closet, opening the left door when I want to project (the projector will be on a shelf in the closet) and closing the doors fully when the HT is not in use for a very clean look. So if I put the concession in that area it will compromise my equipment room, decisions, decisions.....

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post #28 of 362 Old 11-16-2008, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docprego View Post

Bad news! The concession area I want to build will protrude out too far into the theater. It will end up interfering with vision of the screen at the lower left corner when seated in the recliners. I am going to have to locate another spot in the room, or completely abandon the plan. I could move it to the closet at the rear of the room and remove the closet doors. I wanted to use that as an equipment closet, opening the left door when I want to project (the projector will be on a shelf in the closet) and closing the doors fully when the HT is not in use for a very clean look. So if I put the concession in that area it will compromise my equipment room, decisions, decisions.....

Can't you go with a little bit smaller screen lets say 110' screen to compensate for the concession area? Just a thought.
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post #29 of 362 Old 11-16-2008, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob316 View Post

Can't you go with a little bit smaller screen lets say 110' screen to compensate for the concession area? Just a thought.

Smaller screen are you kidding.......BLASPHEMY!!!!!!!


Don't listen to such drivel he is obviously heavily medicated to suggest such a thing!

Do you need the desk in the room? If you could find another room or area in your home for the desk you could use that area for the concessions. Heck there may even be enough area back there for a popcorn machine there too.

But for heaven sake don't even consider a smaller screen YIKES!

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post #30 of 362 Old 11-16-2008, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob316 View Post

Can't you go with a little bit smaller screen lets say 110' screen to compensate for the concession area? Just a thought.

Thanks for the input, but I am actually considering 120" to be my minimum. I have always dreamed of a really large screen HT, my first was 92" and my second 89". This time I was fortunate to get a space where 120" or larger is possible so it's a must!

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Smaller screen are you kidding.......BLASPHEMY!!!!!!!


Don't listen to such drivel he is obviously heavily medicated to suggest such a thing!

Do you need the desk in the room? If you could find another room or area in your home for the desk you could use that area for the concessions. Heck there may even be enough area back there for a popcorn machine there too.

But for heaven sake don't even consider a smaller screen YIKES!

Regards,

RTROSE

The desk is essential, I spend a majority of my time on the computer. I considered other locations but ultimately behind the seating is the only location that will work.

As I see it now there are 2 options for concession projects:

1-Convert the double sliding door closet in the rear of the room to a concession area. This would mean that my equipment would have to be put on a shelf above this area in that same closet. As it stands I was going to put a rack in there on the left with the equipment so that when the room was not being used as an HT I could slide the doors closed and the equipment (and wire jungle) would be out of sight. When using the HT I would slide open the left door and the equipment would be able to receive IR signals from the remotes.

2-Place a standing popper on a cart somewhere in the room and put the refrigerator out of sight in the closet to the right of the equipment rack.

I don't really like either option, I wanted to have a dedicated area with cabinets and countertop. Once the seating and desk are in I will better be able to evaluate this issue.

Any other suggestions?

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