Alright, you've fooled around long enough...go build something! - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 419 Old 06-11-2009, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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I snapped some pics (with flash) of our door & trim stain "testing" to document the process as we finalize the room's color scheme. The pool of candidates consists of 4 stains (2 coats each not yet finished with flat poly) and 1 paint color (its actually the ceiling color which is flat finish - would be flat enamel finish on trim). Each pic includes the wall, carpet, chair and prospective trim color. What do you think?

A


B


C


D


E

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post #182 of 419 Old 06-11-2009, 11:17 AM
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KJ.. My votes for "B".. but I always think the red tinted stains look richer

"E" yuck!!!........ Only if you were trying to cut corners and wanted to purchase cheaper trim.. I wouldnt ever paint the stain grade oak...

Brad

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post #183 of 419 Old 06-12-2009, 06:17 AM
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I think if I had to pick one I would say "C". While red tones on wood are very classy, I think they look horrid with a red toned wall. Go with one of the colors that leans towards the brown side of things - it will be much more balanced.
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post #184 of 419 Old 06-12-2009, 06:33 AM
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I like "C" as well. The darker stain really highlights the beautiful oak grain which pulls in the color of the carpet and chairs as well.

I would strike out "E" just on general principle.

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post #185 of 419 Old 06-12-2009, 06:53 AM
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I like all of them, except the painted one. I agree with KNKKNK (how do you pronounce that?) that it would be a crime to paint that wood.

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post #186 of 419 Old 06-12-2009, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, "E" is rather yucky. It looks like a Hershey's chocolate bar. After one look, my family refused to include "E" in their deliberations. My wife, daughter and I rank the rest like this:

C, A, D, B - but it was a close call on the first 3. We also liked "B" but thought the reds clashed a bit with the trim being more purple/red and the walls being more orange/red in appearance.

Thanks for the feedback - it's appreciated.

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post #187 of 419 Old 06-12-2009, 02:38 PM
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Where did that battery and charger end up? I ask because if is in a lead acid (agm, gel or flooded) and is in a completely enclosed sump hydrogen is a problem. You only need a 2% concentration to be explosive.

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post #188 of 419 Old 06-12-2009, 06:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagolu View Post

Where did that battery and charger end up? I ask because if is in a lead acid (agm, gel or flooded) and is in a completely enclosed sump hydrogen is a problem. You only need a 2% concentration to be explosive.

Thanks.

It will remain in open air behind the proscenium here:


Excellent instructions from the manufacturer. The installation directions clearly state not to enclose the unit.

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post #189 of 419 Old 06-13-2009, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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We've had installers out to measure and quote carpeting for the room. A couple of issues have emerged.

First, my riser is 3/4" away from the side walls. The second carpet guy mentioned that typical base moulding is 3/8" so there could be a sort of "soft" area. I thought that I could add a piece of quarter round to the moulding to cover this. But, I don't think I want to do that. I'm planning to pick up a few pieces of sheet goods and recutting the pieces to reduce the riser - wall gap to a more reasonable distance. I should have ensured the gap distance initially but it shouldn't take too long.

Second, I asked the installer about my plan to use an offset threshold to account for the 7/8" height difference of the dricore floor in the HT and the carpeted floor in the rest of the basement. He surprised me when he said he'd never heard of an offset door threshold - should he have known this or is it more of a carpentry term? At any rate, he suggested taking a 1 x 6 that is the width of the doorway and somehow cutting it at an angle to make a gradual 6" decline from the dricore to the basement floor. He also suggested using a screwdriver to pry open the metal clap that holds the carpet in place between the finished area and the HT. After that, I can slide my 1 x 6 ramp under the carpet and have a gradual height transition under the door. Does this make sense? I think I follow what he suggests but I thought the offset threshold would accomplish this and I don't know how I would cut a ramp from a 1 x 6. Any suggestions on best practices here on how to deal with the HT entrance height difference? Will an offset threshold work or not? Is what the carpet guy suggested the way to go? Will a pic help? Is that enough questions?

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post #190 of 419 Old 07-07-2009, 08:58 AM - Thread Starter
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I made a little progress to get ready for the carpet install. I figured out the height transition between rooms and installed the door casing and trim.

After many test cuts, I found the angle to cut a 1x6 piece of PT lumber to make a ramp. The blade could only cut half of the piece at a time so I flipped the piece to finish the cut. Then, I used tapcons to secure the piece and added a piece of 1/4" plywood with a contoured top edge to simulate the gradual curve of a threshold.

Here is the gap between the HT and the rest of the basement


Here is the ramp


Here it is in place with tapcons


Here are a couple of trim shots. I like the look - very much what I had in mind months ago during planning. My wife used Minwax English Chestnut (choice C from post #181) 2 coats with sanding and finished with 2 coats and sanding of satin poly.

I still need to finish the riser step area and doors, but I plan to do it after the carpet.







My very first coped corner. I like the results of the technique much better than trying to mitre wierd wall angles.


Carpet is next and then the final inspection. Hopefully, I'll have pics of the install later tonight. After that, I start the screenwall and equipment room.

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post #191 of 419 Old 07-07-2009, 10:28 AM
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The trim looks great!

I tried my hand at coping in the family room the other night but found I failed miserably. Looks like yours is a pretty simple one though - mine had lots of different curves in it and was quite thick...did not work AT ALL. lol...so I stuck with mitering.

You know what the biggest problem I had was? I kept forgeting to cut both sides of the molding on long runs before putting it on the wall. Very annoying...my memory did not serve me well here. Starting to get the swing of it now though.

Looks like it is coming along really nice - impressive!
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post #192 of 419 Old 07-07-2009, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks jd.

The design of the trim was a definate consideration when I decided to give coping a try. I read about it in oman's thread. I wanted an understated, modest trim for the scale and look but also for the ease of cut. I also made the coping cut before I cut the piece to length - just in case I ruined the cope, then I could just trim it and try again. I'm hopeful the experience will serve me well as my crown moulding will likely have more curves.

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post #193 of 419 Old 07-07-2009, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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The carpet is in. Check this out:

Before


After


Before


After
















I'm so happy.

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post #194 of 419 Old 07-07-2009, 08:40 PM
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The Un-Theater Un-Build
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post #195 of 419 Old 07-08-2009, 05:31 AM
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It looks really, really good. Very nice! I looked twice at the black on the stage, but it does look ok. I'm sure it'll look more fluid once you have your screen wall finished. Loving the brown.
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post #196 of 419 Old 07-08-2009, 08:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks hanesian and jd. I was a little nervous about the install because there is lots going on at work and I couldn't be at home to observe (supervise) their work. Plus, when I did check in around lunch, my wife told me this was the installer's first time working on a home theater and even though a similar sized regular room would be a two hour job, the HT would take all day. It took 9 hours to finish the job. But, I'm pleased he took his time to do it well. He was please with his efforts as well, as he asked to take a couple of pics to show his wife.

It will all come together with the seating and screenwall in place. Once my final inspection is complete, I'll focus on the screenwall - still don't have it all figured out.

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post #197 of 419 Old 07-11-2009, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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I passed my final inspection and closed out my building permit yesterday. I worried about this far too much. Like some of you stated, the inspector didn't care about the cosmetics. He was only interested in the code compliance of the room. Even then, the inspection took less than 5 minutes. Permit off the window and on to other things.

I need to review my HT Construction Timeline spreadsheet, but my To Do list looks loosely like this:
- finish the trim at the riser steps
- get the doors stained and hung
- install the crown moulding and rope lighting
- finish the LV wiring install
- build minimalist screenwall with rear access and AT screen
- order the pieces of gear I do not yet possess, yet crave.
- on wall acoustic treatments

When you cope the crown moulding, how do you account for the rope light? Drill a hole or cut off a piece of the "uncoped" piece?

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post #198 of 419 Old 07-11-2009, 01:05 PM
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I would vote for cutting of a bit of the un-coped piece. Either way should work but you may end up with a shadow where the ropelight passes through the drilled hole in the crown, which wouldn't be an issue if you removed a bit of the un-coped piece.

I love the look of the carpet. I had the people building the woodwork/acoustical treatments stop 36" short of the front wall in my theater so I can build a false wall. I was originally not going to do a stage but If I finished it in black carpet, like you have, it could really give the 'black hole' effect for the screen wall that I want. Keep up the great work!

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post #199 of 419 Old 07-12-2009, 09:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Scopeguy,

Good point about the possible shadow. I'm going to cut a piece off the uncoped piece for the rope light.

Yeah, with the black carpet and screen wall, the plan is for that end of the room to disappear and just see the screen only. I may have to deal with some reflections from the entrance being near the screen, but I'm comfortable with the compromise.

BTW, your build is progressing nicely.

kjlewie

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post #200 of 419 Old 07-12-2009, 03:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Crown is up! That was harder and took longer than I thought it would. Making sure you make the correct cut is a constant worry. But, my son helped me and the second pair of hands made the job easier. I'm on more friendly terms with the coping saw now - lots of practice. Lots of touch up painting to be done but the hard part is over. Here are a few pics:

One of a few coped corners - not too bad I don't think


Scarf cut


Front of room


Back


Sidewall


I need to get some rope light up there. Getting closer...

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post #201 of 419 Old 07-13-2009, 05:30 AM
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Hey man,

Crown looks good - will look real good once you get the filler in and all those holes dissappear. I love that part.

I totally understand about being scared about making the wrong cuts - that's why I try to work from the corners out - lol. I don't care about scarf joints - I can make those dissappear. It's the dang corners.

Looking good - almost there! What are you doing for ropelight - clear?
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post #202 of 419 Old 07-13-2009, 07:36 AM
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Any advice on the crown, we are going to do the same thing in our room as you with the crown... just out of curiosity, did you consider putting the crown at the bottom of the soffit instead of a few inches up? Is it for a specific reason or just because you preferred that look? I think it looks great.. nice job

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post #203 of 419 Old 07-13-2009, 08:05 AM
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If you put the crown at the bottom of the soffit it would have a negative impact on the ropelight. The closer to the ceiling the more concentrated and steady the glow should be.
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post #204 of 419 Old 07-13-2009, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys,

I'm going with the warmer looking clear/white ropelight since we have a few warmer/earthy looking tones. I've seen a few HTs with the cooler/bluish white or blue lights that look good (gonzo's and oman's) as well.

No specific reason for my mounting decision - I decided to mount the crown up a bit from the bottom of the soffit just for aesthetics to give the room a higher/taller feel. As for the specific height, I mounted the crown level with the projector box on the back wall.

Yeah, the corners are tricky because you have to flip the crown upside down to make the cut. I picked up the first three pieces of advice from someone hear on AVS (maybe cathan) and the last one came to me after trying to mount a 12' piece by myself. The four pieces of advice I'd offer are:

1) Take a piece of the extra crown you purchase (buy more than you need) and make 4 reference mitre cuts about 8" long. One each for the LEFT INSIDE corner, Right INSIDE corner, LEFT OUTSIDE corner, RIGHT OUTSIDE corner. Label each piece and reference the one you need (upside down) before you make a cut.

2) Save the additional headache of dealing with funny corner angles and use a coping saw. Even I got to be pretty decent with it.

3) For those with crown experience similar to mine (aka none), consider painted crown over stained because you can fix a lot of issues with caulk and paint. I originally planned to stain the crown, but I decided against it.

4) Unless you mount the crown at the base of the soffit, use a second pair of hands to help keep things level.

Good luck.

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post #205 of 419 Old 07-14-2009, 08:53 AM
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KJ Contratulations on passing the final inspection and nice job on the crown.

On a side note, after watching me paint 3 coats of black on our HT ceiling , my wife decided she did not like the black.. I showed her your room.. now I have the same dark brown color as yours.. Actually i like it better in the room then I did the black and without any lights you cant tell its not black.

Keep the pics flowing, the room is really coming together.

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post #206 of 419 Old 07-14-2009, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks KNKKNK,

My wife didn't like the thought of a flat black ceiling either.

Pretty funny about the 3 coats of paint then changing color. We actually primed and painted, changed our minds then primed and painted again, then changed our minds again to the current colors. So many layers of paint - I think the room dimensions are now smaller.

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post #207 of 419 Old 07-14-2009, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjlewie View Post

Thanks KNKKNK,

My wife didn't like the thought of a flat black ceiling either.

Pretty funny about the 3 coats of paint then changing color. We actually primed and painted, changed our minds then primed and painted again, then changed our minds again to the current colors. So many layers of paint - I think the room dimensions are now smaller.

Sounds like your married to wife. We have been remodeling the whole house over two years and I have learned just when I think I'm done she has already changed her mind.

Kagolu
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post #208 of 419 Old 07-14-2009, 09:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagolu View Post

Sounds like your married to wife. We have been remodeling the whole house over two years and I have learned just when I think I'm done she has already changed her mind.

My wife didn't like the first color before we'd finished painting. I had a sense we would change colors at least once. Luckily, she loves to paint.

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post #209 of 419 Old 07-15-2009, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjlewie View Post

My wife didn't like the first color before we'd finished painting. I had a sense we would change colors at least once. Luckily, she loves to paint.

Your a lucky man. I do, and redo, all the painting around the house.

Kagolu
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post #210 of 419 Old 07-16-2009, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagolu View Post

Your a lucky man. I do, and redo, all the painting around the house.

My wife loves to paint until we get to the job...somehow I always end up doing it. Oh well, I do a better job anyway.
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