A "Working Title" Theater - Theater Build - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 07:25 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi All,

Per the convention of everyone here, I'm starting my very first "theater build" thread. I have lots of pictures / schematics I'll be uploading in the coming days as I detail my plans. Feel free to jump in and point out any flaws or improvements in the plans as you see fit!

Introduction and Overview

This is my second theater, the first in my new house. I have a completely unfinished basement that has poured concrete walls, and a nice poured floor. There is a large crack separating the floor in the planned theater from the rest of the basement floor, so the concrete floor is already uncoupled.

I picked the area under the great room of the house for several reasons:it's a nice solid rectangle, it's as far from the sleeping quarters and stairs as I can get, and it has almost no pipes or ductwork in the ceiling. In other words, and ideal space.
Before


Current as of 10/30/09










Size and Room Modes


The raw space is 92.5"x152"x
232". Finished, it will be approximately 89.00"x136.75"x217.75". Ratio works out to be 1, 1.53, 2.44. I'm a little worried about the width in terms of room modes, so I might try adjusting the airgap depth a bit to get it closer to 1.6 and farther from 1.5


Construction Phases
As of 10/19/2009
The room will be built in phases, and is based on the "room-within-a-room" concepts I've read here and other places.
  1. Architectural plans (Done!)
  2. Floor (Done!)
  3. Hydraulic Cement on Cracks (Done!)
  4. Cement Wall Framing (Done!)
  5. Partition door framing (Done!)
  6. Soffits (Done!)
  7. Move existing HVAC lines, remove 5' of duct. (Done!)
  8. Move Gas Line (Done!)
  9. Ceiling Framing (Done!)
  10. 20 amp theater circuit and outlets in theater (Done!)
  11. 20 amp workbench upgrade and table saw (Done!)
  12. 15 amp 4 switched lighting circuits (Done!)
  13. Speaker, RCA, Cat5e, Cat3e wiring (Done!)
  14. Ceiling Insulation (Done!)
  15. Wall Insulation (Done!)
  16. Drywall Ceiling, first layer (Done!)
  17. Drywall Walls, first layer (Done!)
  18. Install door (Done!)
  19. Drywall partition Wall, first layer (Done!)
  20. Drywall Soffits, first layer (Done!)
  21. Seal all cracks and seams with acoustic caulk (Done!)
  22. Drywall Ceiling + GG (Done!)
  23. Drywall Walls +GG (Done!)
  24. Drywall Soffits + GG (Done!)
  25. Mud and tape. (Done!)
  26. Finish off the window (Done!)
  27. Primer (Done!)
  28. Paint (Done!)
  29. Partition Wall Insulation (Done!)
  30. Wall pillars and sconces (Done!)
  31. Stage (Done!)
  32. Window plug (Done!)
  33. Floor and Ceiling trim, crown molding (Done!)
  34. Track Lighting (Done!)
  35. Rope Lighting (Done!)
  36. Carpet (Done!)
  37. Bass Traps (Done!)
  38. DVD Rack (Done!)
  39. Projector shelving and hush box (Done!)
  40. Seats Waiting on group buy...
  41. Screen wall acoustical treatment (Done!)
  42. Acoustical Analysis and side wall treatments In process...


Floor

The floor is nice and flat, but I like a nice wood floor feeling. Therefore, I picked up 75 squares of dri-core, and installed them at the start of the project. This raised the floor height 7/8". I've got a 6' level to help ensure a flat floor. The dri-core panels themselves have no STC rating, and are rather useless for sound isolation, so my hope is the fact that the cement's free-floating and is surrounded by cracks on all four sides will be enough to reasonably isolate the room. This is actually the only part of the structure in contact with the rest of the house, other than some foam aroudn the window that's part of the vapor barrier.


Walls

Three of the four walls are poured cement, the fourth, where the door will be, is the partition wall. My current plans have the walls looking like this:
1. 0.5"-1" variable air gap for water vapor
2. 1/2" 4'x8' sheets of styrofoam. This is used as the true vapor barrier and outer insulation, as no mold can grow on it.
3. Standard 2x4 framing. The framing will be filled with standard OC R-13 kraft-faced fiberglass.
5. Two sheets of 5/8" drywall. I'm using green glue between them.


Walls Obstacles

There are a few things that will cause the wall to not be just a sealed barrier. I have
A door
A casement window
Two flexi-duct HVAC supply lines running diagonally across the ceiling.


Door


While I originally planned on using a kintetics 35 STC door, I found it cost-prohibitive, so I've selected a Jeld-Wend custom carved door, in 1.75" thickness. It's STC rating as a system is somewhere between 27-31 STC.


Window


I want to keep the casement window as a fire escape route, but no, I'm not expanding it to be a true egress window. I have another window in the basement I'll do that to. I plan on building a window plug out of MDF and cement board to plug the window after framing and drywall are complete.


Soffits and HVAC


I'll be installing 9" x20" soffits running the full length of the right side of the room, and most of the length up to the window. These will hold the 8" flexible ducts currently there. They will also hold the recessed can lights i'm going to put in. I may very well use them as the feed and return lines for the room as well. I've also decided to re-route the gas lines through the soffit, to make it easier to install the drop ceiling.


HVAC Modifications

I'll have to move the existing flexible duct lines to the sides of the room. I'll need to cut back the main branch of the feed supply duct by about 4' to move it outside the partition wall.


Ceiling


I'm attaching WhisperClips clips to just the first two feet of the ceiling and built a false ceiling dropped 1" lower out of 2"x6"x16', which will fully decouple the structure. The existing ceiling joists is stuffed with R-30 unfaced insulation, and finally covered with again two 5/8" layers of drywall and GG.


Cost and Materials


This table is based on my researched costs, comparing lowes and Home depot. In most cases home depot won. Taxes are based on a 6.75% rate here in ohio.

I've broken it into categories, and subtotaled it by what I plan to spend, and what I've actually spent to date. I've actually renovated my workshop as part of this build, and added that to the total cost (i.e. electrical, lighting and table saw)

EDIT: This is the final cost of the theater build proper. It excludes things like the seats and electronics, as I re-used the speakers / receiver / projector I already had from theater 1.0. The final tally will be right around the $11,000 mark once we add in seats.
Category Description Quantity Needed Quantity Bought Unit Price Tax (S/H) Total to Date
Floor Dricore panels 75 75 6.47 $32.75 $518.00
Water Prevention Polyurethane Injection: 2 kits 2 2 $286.00
Framing & Fasteners 2" x4"x10' top /bottom plates 8 8 $2.58 $1.50 $22.03
2x4x14' ceiling joists 13 13 $3.64 $3.19 $50.51
2x4x8'" standard studs 101 101 $1.95 $14.28 $210.24
2.5" screws, 1lb 1 1 $5.94 $0.40 $6.34
3 1/2" screw, 5 lbs 3 3 $19.48 $3.94 $62.38
tapcon 1/4" drill bit 1 1 $4.78 $0.32 $5.10
tapcon 1/4" x 3.5" screws 1 1 $11.47 $0.77 $12.24
2x6x14' 13 13 $5.45 $4.78 $75.63
1Lb box 3" framing nails 2 2 $3.24 $0.44 $6.92
1/2" 2'x2' plywood 1 1 $5.23 $0.35 $5.58
3/4" MDF Sheets 3 3 $26.21 $5.31 $83.94
Ridgid T3660 Table saw 1 1 $524.00 $35.37 $559.37
12" 3/16" drill bit 1 1 $7.39 $0.50 $7.89
Door Jeld-Wen 1.75" custom carved MDF door 1 1 $150.00 $10.13 $160.13
Schlage Aged bronze doorknob 1 1 $29.58 $2.00 $31.58
Insulation R-30 Ceiling Insulation 25' (2128" needed) 5 5 $29.86 $10.82 $159.38
1/2"x4'x8' Sheets Styrofoam. 12 12 $9.15 $7.96 $117.21
12 oz foam and crack sealent 1 1 $4.82 $0.33 $5.15
16 oz great stuff 1 1 $4.98 $0.34 $5.32
3M Spray Adhesive for sill isulation 1 1 $9.98 $0.67 $10.65
Duct Tape for sealing vapor barrier 1 1 $9.98 $0.67 $10.65
Owens Corning Sill plate, 50'x3/16" 2 2 $5.97 $0.81 $12.75
Plastic cap nails for insulation 1 1 $6.68 $0.45 $7.13
12 pack of latex sealent 1 1 $20.78 $1.40 $22.18
Foamboard adhesive 4 4 $3.34 $0.90 $14.26
HVAC (old & new) 6" flex duct to move soffits, new vent 2 2 $25.98 $3.51 $55.47
7x6 reducer (for transition of new to old duct) 3 3 $6.74 $1.36 $21.58
6" collar (for taping into hVAC) 7 7 $3.75 $1.77 $28.02
Hanger Strap (for securing flex duct) 1 1 $12.97 $0.88 $13.85
Register Boot 2 2 $7.97 $1.08 $17.02
10x6 Register Vent 1 1 $7.76 $0.52 $8.28
12x6 Return Vent 1 1 $5.33 $0.36 $5.69
6" forced air fan 2 2 $27.97 $3.78 $59.72
36" zip ties 1 1 $5.97 $0.40 $6.37
36" zip ties 1 1 $9.87 $0.67 $10.54
1 5/8" screws for dead box 1 1 $5.94 $0.40 $6.34
6" adjustable adapter 1 1 $3.83 $0.26 $4.09
metal screws 1 1 $5.87 $0.40 $6.27
Drywall 5/8" x4' x8' drywall 30 30 $6.27 $12.70 $200.80
More 5/8" 4'x8' drywall 18 18 $6.88 $- $123.84
Drywall Delivery 1 1 $69.00
Drywall Delier 1 1 $50.00
Drywall Lift 1 1 $69.95 $94.49 $164.44
60' Corner Bead 6 6 $1.66 $0.67 $10.63
250' tape on corner bead 1 1 $10.98 $10.98
7/8",2.5"W, 25GA dry-wall furring channel. 2 2 $6.51 $0.88 $13.90
Mesh Tape, Roll 2 2 $5.10 $0.69 $10.89
1 7/8" nails (for corner bead) 1 1 $3.50 $0.24 $3.74
1 7/8" coarse drywall screws 1 1 $17.53 $1.18 $18.71
2.5" coarse drywall screws 1 1 $17.53 $1.18 $18.71
12" mud tray 1 1 $9.88 $0.67 $10.55
90 degree small inside trowel 1 1 $5.40 $0.36 $5.76
90 degree large inside trowel 1 1 $7.20 $0.49 $7.69
90 degree small outside trowel 1 1 $5.40 $0.36 $5.76
8" trowel 1 1 $5.40 $0.36 $5.76
10" trowel 1 1 $5.40 $0.36 $5.76
12" large trowel 1 1 $5.40 $0.36 $5.76
4.5 Gal Mud Compound 1 1 $10.78 $0.73 $11.51
Mud Compound 1 1 $8.98 $0.61 $9.59
62LB pail topping joint compound 1 1 $11.02 $0.74 $11.76
Drywall Hammer 1 1 $16.99 $1.15 $18.14
1 7/8" drywall nails 1 1 $3.99 $0.27 $4.26
Drywall Dimpler (American Vermont 1 1 $13.22 $0.89 $14.11
Drywall Rasp 1 1 $6.23 $0.42 $6.65
Drywall Hand Sander 1 1 $6.28 $0.42 $6.70
120 Grit Drywall screen 1 1 $3.12 $0.21 $3.33
220 Grit drywall screen 1 1 $3.12 $0.21 $3.33
48" drywall T square 1 1 $11.65 $0.79 $12.44
Greenglue (Pail) 2 2 $225.00 $450.00
SpeedLoad Dispenser 1 1 $29.99 $29.99
SilenSeal acoustical caulk (case) 1 1 $69.30 $69.30
Whisperclip 12 12 $4.35 $52.20
Freight Charge for S/P stuff 1 1 $49.46 $49.46
Gas Line Paid Plumber to move gas line 1 1 $210.00
Electrical 20 Amp Circuit 1 1 $3.25 $0.22 $3.47
Brickwall Panel Mount Surge 1 1 $282.24
250' Romex 12/2 1 1 $46.28 $3.36 $49.40
250' Romex 14/2 1 1 $31.00 $2.25 $33.09
25' 14/3 for Smoke Detector 1 1 $14.29 $0.96
Yellow Wire nuts (25 pack) 1 1 $2.48 $0.18 $2.65
Plastic Staples for securing wire (box) 1 1 $2.98 $0.22 $3.18
Single gang new construction box 15 15 $2.12 $2.15 $33.95
two gang box for rack 1 1 $4.30 $0.29 $4.59
3 gang light box 1 1 $2.54 $0.17 $2.71
4 gang light box 1 1 $4.30 $0.29 $4.59
Wall seals, for insulationg the box 5 5 $1.97 $0.66 $10.51
15 amp sockets, black 16 16 $1.99 $2.31 $33.99
Black decora single gang wall plates 12 12 $0.50 $0.41 $6.41
Black two gang wall plate 1 1 $0.99 $0.07 $1.06
AC/DC Smoke Alarm 1 1 $14.97 $1.09 $15.98
Lutron Maestro IR Dimmer 2 2 $34.45 $73.55
Decora black switches 3 3 $2.60 $8.33
Lutron 4-gang screwless wall plate 1 1 $11.95 $12.76
8'x14' FOSI Star field Fiber Optic Ceiling 1 0 $1,000.00 $-
3" strike plates for electrical runs 8 5 $0.36 $0.19 $1.92
12# spade terminals 1 1 $6.49 $0.44 $6.93
MX Armored Wire for workbench 1 1 $12.43 $0.84 $13.27
Insulated Staples 1 1 $1.98 $0.13 $2.11
Temporary plastic light fixtures 5 5 $1.39 $0.47 $7.42
Metal ceiling boxes 6 6 $1.19 $0.48 $7.62
wiring grommits for metal boxes 1 1 $4.27 $0.29 $4.56
20amp plugs for bench 5 5 $2.49 $0.84 $13.29
GFCI for bench 1 1 $12.77 $0.86 $13.63
4" square plates for bench 3 3 $2.97 $0.60 $9.51
Clamp connectors 1 1 $2.70 $0.18 $2.88
handy boxes for HVAC junction wiring 2 2 $0.94 $0.13 $2.01
covers for handy boxes 2 2 $0.52 $0.07 $1.11
4" square plate covers 2 2 $1.21 $0.16 $2.58
60W Light Bulbs 2 2 $4.27 $0.58 $9.12
Lowes Profile Wall Sconce 6 6
Incandescent base to replace flourescent 6 6 $3.67 $23.51
GFCI cover 1 1 $2.59 $0.17 $2.76
3 Light Track Lighting, 4' 2 2 $39.98 $5.40 $85.36
track light plug adapter 2 2 $8.97 $1.21 $19.15
165' blue led rope light 1 1 $180.56 $180.56
Low Voltage Xantech 490 Kit (182-448 @ PE) 1 1 $126.80 $135.36
3-Gang 7.1 Surround sound wall plate 1 1 $23.50 $25.09
12AWG CL2 Rated 2 250' speaker cable 1 1 $70.00 $74.73
25ft cat5 cable 1 1 $2.55 $2.72
Black f-type keystone jack 1 1 $0.58 $0.62
50' Gold Series F-Type coax cable 1 1 $7.99 $8.53
35' premium RCA cable 1 1 $6.70 $7.15
Cat5e inline coupler 2 2 $2.36 $5.04
Cat5e black keystone jack 1 1 $1.44 $1.54
RJ-45 keystone, white 2 2 $1.31 $2.80
White 2-hole keystone 1 1 $0.34 $0.36
Black Recessed low voltage plate 2 0 $2.19 $-
Black dual gang 8 keystone wall plate 1 1 $1.99 $2.12
Black single gang 4 keystone wall plate 1 1 $1.97 $2.10
Black pair of banana plugs 5 5 $6.99 $37.31
Black wall plates for banana plugs 5 5 $1.39 $7.42
Cable straps 2 2 $1.22 $2.60
Paint & Stain Valspar Primer 3 3 $1.22 $3.91
Paint Samples to pick color 3 3 $3.98 $12.75
Flat Black Top Coat (Ceiling & Soffits) 2 2 $15.00 $32.03
Fragrant Cloves Top Coat (Walls) 1 1 $16.92 $18.06
Cherry Stain 1 1 $7.18 $7.66
Wood Pre-Conditioner 1 1 $10.97 $11.71
Polyurethane Sealent (Satin) 2 2 $9.97 $21.29
2.5" Stain Brush 3 3 $8.27 $26.48
Foam Brushes (Polyurethane) 8 8 $0.79 $6.75
1" thin angle brush 1 1 $6.78 $7.24
Disposable Course brushes (assorted) 1 1 $8.00 $8.54
3 packy nylon 3/8" rollers 1 1 $7.97 $8.51
Stage 50# Bags of Sand 20 20 $3.53 $75.37
Screws 1 1 $5.94 $6.34
2x6 beams 7 7 $3.15 $23.54
5/8" OSB 5'x8' 3 3 $9.40 $30.10
#30 roofing felt 1 1 $22.90 $24.45
2x4 (also for sawhorses) 12 12 $1.98 $25.36
4'x8' Sheet Birch, (also for moulding) 1 1 $16.88 $18.02
Carpet Carpet and Pad, Installed 1 1 $1,089.49 $1,089.49
Columns & Trim Colonial Baseboard 7 7 $19.64 $146.76
Door Trim kit 1 1 $20.46 $21.84
Colonial Crown 8 8 $24.00 $204.94
1x4 Select Pine Column Side 12 12 $8.21 $105.17
1x2 Select Pine Column Front 12 12 $4.34 $55.60
4x8 Birch Sanded Plywood 2 2 $41.88 $89.41
Cheesecloth 1 1 $3.87 $4.13
Ryobi Biscuit Joiner 1 1 $219.00 $233.78
Wiping Cloths 1 1 $1.98 $2.11
100 grit sandpaper 1 1 $4.47 $4.77
120 Grit sandpaper 1 1 $3.97 $4.24
#20 Joining Biscuits 3 3 $13.96 $44.71
#0 Joining Biscuits 1 1 $9.00 $9.61
24" Clutch bar clamp 1 1 $9.98 $10.65
2" crown moudling (linear feet) 54 54 $1.38 $79.55
2" baseboard (linear feet) 50 50 $1.06 $56.58
Cove Molding (linear feet) 64 64 $0.74 $50.56
Wood Glue 2 2 $3.17 $6.77
Hitachi Compound Miter Saw 1 1 $99.00 $105.68
Protractor angle finder 1 1 $4.97 $5.31
DVD storage and Custom rack 1/4" Birch plywood 1 1 $19.97 $21.32
1"x6" 8' boards for DVD rack 5 5 $10.97 $58.55
Screen Da-Lite 110" High Performance Cinema Contour with Pro-Trim Wall, 2.8 gain 1 1 $1,185 $1,185
3M Spray Adhesive for screen wall 1 1 $9.98 $10.68
Total-to-date $9,689.14

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 07:55 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
This is a placeholder for the architectural plans, Draft A, that I will upload in a day or two. Wanted to keep them handy.

Currently you'll see my to-scale sketches of the existing room space, joist structure, etc. I'm still working on re-drafting the partition wall since I need to move the door over more to make space for a bass trap on one side, and the equipment rack on the exterior.

Existing Space
Front / Back Wall


Ceiling showing joists & HVAC


Floor


Right Wall


Left Wall showing window

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #3 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I really pondered going with Kinetics RIM concrete floating floor:


But it didn't provide a vapor barrier or water channel in case the walls leak. As the walls have leaked in the past, I didn't want to put anything directly on the cement, I wanted to let it naturally breath and evaporate via the the channels provided by the dricore. I hope I don't regret this decision.

The other reason I didn't go with Rim (besides cost) is that it adds 2+ inches over what the dri-core does.

I spoke with the dricore folks on the phone about vibration isolation, and the pointed out that I can put any layer I want on top of the wood, just not underneath the panels.

I'm ended up installing them in staggered lines, see the post below for pics.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #4 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Common Features of all walls:

Wall Materials Thickness
AirGap 0.75
styrofoam 0.75
2x4 3.5
2 sheets drywall 5/8 1.25
Total wall penetration: 6.25

Every wall follows the above construction pattern. First a 0.75" airgrap from the cement, then a 0.75" OC 4x8 sheet of styrofoam for vapor barrier. Then the 2x4's, and two sheets of 5/8" drywall with GG in the middle.


Draft A Plans

Front wall, where the screen goes:

This is a simple stud wall that is at the front of the theater. On the top right you can see where the soffit will sit.

Left Wall, where the window is:

Here you can see window and left soffit run. The window is a standard casement window. I don't plan on replacing it or framing it in, i'll instead build a solid MDF/fiberglass plug for it with handles that can be removed when natural light is desired.

Right Wall, where the full-length soffit run is:


You can see here it's the easiest wall, and where I'll start the framing. a 2x2 soffit will then be built on top of the framing, and I'll then drywall over the soffit and wall frames as one. This wall, like the other walls, will not touch the actual joists above, sitting about 1" down from them. It will be free-standing and joined to the 2x6x13' joists tying the ceiling together.

Partition Wall.

At the top of the walls on each side you'll see where I've left a 20"x9" gap for the 4 8" hvac flexible lines to run through. The left side contains the lines that feed the great room and the theater, and the right side contains lines for the utility room and closet in the MBR.

I spaced the door over 23.5" so that people don't walk into the room into the soffit, the ceiling will be about 89" high where they walk in, and 80" under the soffits, or 6'8" per code.

An additional design consideration was leaving room on the interior of the theater to mount a super-chunk style bass trap, which will go on each corner. I tried to push the door as far left as possible to still leave room for the projector hush box, which will be centered, and will have to avoid the door opening. The PJ will be mounted on the rear wall (it's a Panasonic which is designed for rear-wall mounting)

The equipment rack will be *outside* the theater, to the left of the door. I'm going to build a custom full-height cabinet for it and finish it like the bar which is also on the outside of the theater. The HDMI supply line for the PJ will snake above the door and enter through a low voltage box to the right of the door.

I'm not yet sure the best way to run all the speaker wires and sub cables.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #5 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 07:59 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
After pondering my options, and reviewing the ceiling, I think I can build a floating ceiling, much like on soundproofingcompany.com recommends:


I'll build it using 2x8x14' boards, cut to roughly a 12', 6" length, and sitting 1" below the other ceiling joists, and roughly 2" from the main floor above. I'm not sure if need to top sill plates as shown here:


The floating ceiling, coupled with green glue, should eliminate the need for ISOMAX clips entirely, which shaves over $1000 off my build costs, replaced instead with $90 worth of lumber and a bit more labor.

Here is the framing for the soffit runs in the ceiling. You can see that the left soffit stops short of the window. On the other side of the window I'll be mounting the 1 square foot box for the fiberoptic illuminator:


The soffit run on the left will contain the existing 8" flexiduct line suppling the upstairs, and will contain the new supply line for the theater. The two 8" lines will sit side by side in the 20" x9" deep soffit.

The soffit on the right contains along it's full length the 8" flexiduct line for the upstairs. At the rear of it a second 8" line also emerges for the other HVAC run upstairs.

UPDATE: I ran the load numbers through the American Wood Council span tables. for a 12'6" span floor joists of L/360 deflection, 16"OC spacing, assuming a 1.3 modules of elasticity, i"ll need a 2x8 sheet. I was really hoping I could go with a 2x6", because I have these cross braces to deal with in the existing joists:

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #6 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 08:00 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I've decided to build the dead vent system. I currently have all the parts necessary, just need to get the rear wall and soffits up, so I can install it.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #7 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 08:03 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'm running a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the room components and projection equipment. The can lights, and FOSI system will run off of the existing basement 15 amp circuit.

In addition to quite a few single-gang electrical boxes, I'll be installing a 3 gang box to control:
Main lights
Wall Sconces
FOSI system

I'll also be running low voltage runs for the speaker cable for a 7.1 system. In addition, there will be drops for a CAT 6 cabled run to the main network hub. I'll also install a telephone line.

I'll need to extend the whole-house fire alarm into the room as well.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #8 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
This is a placeholder for photos of me insulating the area, both the outer R-4 insulation, the ceiling R-30 insulation, and the wall R-13 insulation.

I've pulled a whole bunch of aluminum faced insulation down off the walls, they were 50% covered with the stuff, which looks to be about 3" thick. It may be exactly the same as standard R13 insulation. I suspect I can cut and reuse it within the walls, to really reduce my insulation costs, which currently sit at $1500, the single biggest expense except for the FOSI system.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #9 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 08:08 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
This is a placeholder for the drywall.

My initial plan was to use ISOMax clips on a 7/8" hat channel, with two perpendicular layers of drywall (known as DD). I recently re-read about green glue, and that sounds like a good idea too.

However, I'm wondering if both, or even any are necessary since the walls won't be touching the rest of the house. The shared wall won't actually be shared at all, I'll be building a double wall on the other side of it.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #10 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
This post placeholder is dedicated to the installation of the FOSI star field.

Here you see the 8' by 14' layout they prepared for me. The illuminator box will be mounted by the window, so I'll need to mount a single-gang box up high for the electrical run.




They suggested running a blue rope light around it as well to give it a floating affect. Here's a picture of what it should look like finished:

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #11 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 08:12 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
This post is a placeholder for pictures and details of the trim, molding, and wall millwork. I plan on having 4 architectural posts in the room holding the wall sconces.

I am still pondering building a stage, that would go here as well, I'll build it after the drywall is done, but before the carpet is laid down.

I'm hoping to install a motorized curtain system in the room covering the screen as well, that would go here too.

Here's a picture (From Kinetics) to get an idea of what I mean by mill work for the side columns.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #12 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 08:12 AM
Advanced Member
 
malovich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: NWPA
Posts: 525
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Your lucky to have such a perfect room for a theater, I envy you. You mentioned a soffit down one side for the ducts, will you do a matching soffit for the other side? Return ducts maybe?

EDIT: mod move this to the end of his placeholders if you can, sorry to interrupt.

XBL Krimzen Rage
malovich is offline  
post #13 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I've left enough space on each corner of the room to integrate a floor-to-ceiling super-chunk bass trap. I already have four I built from my last theater, made out of Roxul Rockwool (the floppy stuff in the middle with the rigid style at the ends) covered in black burlap. I'm goign to deconstruct them and put better quality GOM fabric on them for the corners. That's pretty much it for my bass trap palns. I can also add additional diagonal traps at the various ceiling / wall intersections, but I hope I don't have to.

I still have a BFD I plan on using to tame the sub once I bet it built.

I plan on 4 2x4 first order traps, but I will spend some time with the the R/T calculations to get the response I wonder. I'll probably hire someone for that.

The rear of the theater will have integrated dvd / bluray storage, enough for 800 discs. It also has the hushbox and door. That doesn't leave much space for diffusion, but I"ll need to put some up. I'll map out the diffusion points and build the storage case around them.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #14 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
This is a placeholder for the equipment rack and projector hushbox, the screen and automatic masks.

I'll also detail the seating (I'm hoping for 6 seats), and run through my equipment list here too.

Right now it will be built using my current equipments set of a Panny 720p projector, a pioneer receiver (or maybe a new Onkyo), and a new set of AV123 rocket-style speakers.

I'm keeping my definitive 2002's upstairs with the Samsung 52" tv, the only components moving in here would be the oppo dvd player and the svs sub.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #15 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 08:18 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by malovich View Post

Your lucky to have such a perfect room for a theater, I envy you. You mentioned a soffit down one side for the ducts, will you do a matching soffit for the other side? Return ducts maybe?

Yup, the soffits are mirrored, with a precise 8' tray ceiling in between to make it easy to put up the drywall. The one soffit will end on the other side of the window.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #16 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 08:32 AM
AVS Special Member
 
jamis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,919
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
This is a placeholder for various comments about your build.





Seriously though, I look forward to seeing the progress!
jamis is offline  
post #17 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 08:38 AM
AVS Special Member
 
CDLehner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Dark Side of the Moon-Right Side of the Bay, MD
Posts: 8,997
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked: 295
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis View Post

This is a placeholder for various comments about your build.





Seriously though, I look forward to seeing the progress!

This is a placeholder for...like we didn't see that coming.

CD

Music is a moral law. It gives soul to the universe, wings to the mind, flight to the imagination, and charm and gaiety to life and to everything. -Plato
CDLehner is offline  
post #18 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 11:16 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,475
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 130 Post(s)
Liked: 527
I agree with your gut feeling. I am not sure you need to invest 20% of your build budget on a door and sweep. Seems a little stiff compared to alternatives.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #19 of 261 Old 11-27-2008, 09:39 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Soundood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 1,365
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
In my experience, it is better to keep the water out than to deal with what comes in. Try Kryton. We use this on in our critical mold prevention projects in some VERY wet areas and it has never failed. It is ugly but since it will all be covered, it simply does not matter.

"Did you make 'em fine-ass-soundin' speakers over there what would sound gooder than hell comin' out of the back of my truck-boat-truck?"

-Early Cuyler. Poet Liquoreate
Soundood is offline  
post #20 of 261 Old 11-28-2008, 02:29 PM
Advanced Member
 
malovich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: NWPA
Posts: 525
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Don't forget you can apply acoustical isolation treatments directly to the door, I've seen people GG + Lead Plate on a solid core door before.

XBL Krimzen Rage
malovich is offline  
post #21 of 261 Old 11-29-2008, 03:48 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Well, the build finally started today as I began laying the subfloor now that I've cleared the room out. Dri-core does go down really easy. I ended up using 1/2" spacers rather than 1/4" spacers, since that's all I had.

Attached are three new installation photos. The first one shows me spacing out the boards. I got excited after laying them out, thinking I could finish the room with 6x10 rows. No such luck, I'm going to end up sing 70 of them since I have to keep cutting the boards in half to make the width correctly.


Here's an action shot of me using 2x4's and spacers to knock the dri-core in place. I used a 6' level to ensure the first row was nice and straight. The remaining rows went much faster.


And finally here's a picture of what it looked like right about where I stopped for the night. I've finished about half the subfloor in about 4 hours.


I ended up staggering the boards in a checkboard pattern like the dricore instructions indicated. They lock much tighter that way. I probably should have bought some leveling kits because I can feel some bounce in one area (it's probably off by 1/8") but it's not going to bother me once the theaters built. I'll be sitting down, not walking around.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #22 of 261 Old 11-29-2008, 05:28 PM
Senior Member
 
SCHNEEDOO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Batavia, NY
Posts: 429
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Just put a tapcon screw where you feel the bounce.
SCHNEEDOO is offline  
post #23 of 261 Old 11-30-2008, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Whew! Finished the subfloor. My back and butt hurt from bending over and smacking 2x4's all afternoon with a rubber mallet, but the whole subfloor is installed. It's more or less level. There are certainly some spots that are probably 1/8" off that I should have leveled, but oh well. It's not going to bother me.

Here's the finished deal.


Next up, filling the hairline cracks in the walls with hydraulic cement. No, I don't think it will do much, but I have a gallon tub of the stuff sitting around so I might as well.

I've never actually seen water come through these cracks since I bought the house 7 months ago, but there is evidence that one crack leaked in the past. You can see it on the far left side of the above photo. There is some efflorescence around it from the mineral's in the soil

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #24 of 261 Old 12-01-2008, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So, (and with apalogies to the Kinetics folks reading this) I started out planning on using the Kinetics NAF-10 sill plate under-layment, based on their recommendations to me. Here's a picture so we're all on the same page:


No problem, until I got the price quote: $569 for the 68 linear feet I need. Hmm, considering i'm already building a "room within a room" impact noise from the walls to the floor will likely not be a big deal. But still, I think their science is sound. Since I have no idea what the product is made of, i found a potential replacement in Owens Corning "FoamSealR".



It's designed to seal out air from a sill plate, but being fiberglass it naturally absorbs some impact noise. At $12.65 for 100', it doesn't seem like it can hurt putting it under the sill plate between the subfloor and the walls, but i'd like this groups opinion:

Will it help at all? I don't have any equipment to measure it's actual effectiveness, but is this idea silly?

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #25 of 261 Old 12-01-2008, 06:42 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,475
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 130 Post(s)
Liked: 527
Just a too late comment. If you ever have to take out the floor due to basement flooding you will regret the decision to put the dricore under the walls. You can actually frame and then put the panels inside the framed walls.

Having helped Tom Logan rip out his panels and carted to the dump because his sump pump failed during our 10 inch down pour this year, he said he now wished he had gone that route.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #26 of 261 Old 12-01-2008, 06:45 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,475
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 130 Post(s)
Liked: 527
Quote:
Originally Posted by 91BlckGT View Post

It's designed to seal out air from a sill plate, but being fiberglass it naturally absorbs some impact noise. At $12.65 for 100', it doesn't seem like it can hurt putting it under the sill plate between the sub-floor and the walls, but I'd like this groups opinion:

Will it help at all? I don't have any equipment to measure it's actual effectiveness, but is this idea silly?

Can't hurt, see the Sandman build Thread. He framed his walls on top of tiled garage floor and it helped seal the floor irregularities
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #27 of 261 Old 12-01-2008, 06:55 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,475
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 130 Post(s)
Liked: 527
Just another item and food for thought. Most people click to go to the end of a thread to see recent progress and discussion. We follow build threads in a linear manner picking up a story where we last left it.

When we get to page two nobody is going back to re-read previous posts (like#3) that you decide to edit and add questions. We are basically lazy, like to do drive by posting and move on. We can't be looking all over the place.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #28 of 261 Old 12-02-2008, 12:55 PM
Advanced Member
 
malovich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: NWPA
Posts: 525
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Just a too late comment. If you ever have to take out the floor due to basement flooding you will regret the decision to put the dricore under the walls. You can actually frame and then put the panels inside the framed walls.

Having helped Tom Logan rip out his panels and carted to the dump because his sump pump failed during our 10 inch down pour this year, he said he now wished he had gone that route.

He hasn't framed yet, he can still rip off a 4" strip all around with a circular saw.

91blckgt, are you planing on having pressure treated lumber on top of the foamsealr?

XBL Krimzen Rage
malovich is offline  
post #29 of 261 Old 12-02-2008, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Just another item and food for thought. Most people click to go to the end of a thread to see recent progress and discussion. We follow build threads in a linear manner picking up a story where we last left it.

When we get to page two nobody is going back to re-read previous posts (like#3) that you decide to edit and add questions. We are basically lazy, like to do drive by posting and move on. We can't be looking all over the place.

Excellent point, all future questions (like my foam seal one) go at the end.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
post #30 of 261 Old 12-02-2008, 01:14 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
91BlckGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by malovich View Post

He hasn't framed yet, he can still rip off a 4" strip all around with a circular saw.

91blckgt, are you planing on having pressure treated lumber on top of the foamsealr?

No, standard grade lumber on top of the foamsealer. With the sill being on top of the dry-core it won't be in contact with the cement.

Even it it was, I had laid down several test strips and had that carpet you see in one of the earlier posts down on the floor for 5 months. The carpet never was damp, still smells great, and the floor never had any water vapor come through that I could detect. For a basement, it's reasonably dry.

So, I didn't see a reason to spend more for the pressure-treated stuff. I don't have a problem putting it down persay, but if water ever rises to the point where it's hitting the bottom sill, I'll have much bigger problems.

My Theater Build Thread Loganed 11/27/08
91BlckGT is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off