Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Columbus OH
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|232". Finished, it will be approximately 89.00"x136.75"x217.75". Ratio works out to be 1, 1.53, 2.44. I'm a little worried about the width in terms of room modes, so I might try adjusting the airgap depth a bit to get it closer to 1.6 and farther from 1.5
Construction Phases As of 10/19/2009
The room will be built in phases, and is based on the "room-within-a-room" concepts I've read here and other places.
The floor is nice and flat, but I like a nice wood floor feeling. Therefore, I picked up 75 squares of dri-core, and installed them at the start of the project. This raised the floor height 7/8". I've got a 6' level to help ensure a flat floor. The dri-core panels themselves have no STC rating, and are rather useless for sound isolation, so my hope is the fact that the cement's free-floating and is surrounded by cracks on all four sides will be enough to reasonably isolate the room. This is actually the only part of the structure in contact with the rest of the house, other than some foam aroudn the window that's part of the vapor barrier.
Three of the four walls are poured cement, the fourth, where the door will be, is the partition wall. My current plans have the walls looking like this:
1. 0.5"-1" variable air gap for water vapor
2. 1/2" 4'x8' sheets of styrofoam. This is used as the true vapor barrier and outer insulation, as no mold can grow on it.
3. Standard 2x4 framing. The framing will be filled with standard OC R-13 kraft-faced fiberglass.
5. Two sheets of 5/8" drywall. I'm using green glue between them.
There are a few things that will cause the wall to not be just a sealed barrier. I have
A casement window
Two flexi-duct HVAC supply lines running diagonally across the ceiling.
While I originally planned on using a kintetics 35 STC door, I found it cost-prohibitive, so I've selected a Jeld-Wend custom carved door, in 1.75" thickness. It's STC rating as a system is somewhere between 27-31 STC.
I want to keep the casement window as a fire escape route, but no, I'm not expanding it to be a true egress window. I have another window in the basement I'll do that to. I plan on building a window plug out of MDF and cement board to plug the window after framing and drywall are complete.
Soffits and HVAC
I'll be installing 9" x20" soffits running the full length of the right side of the room, and most of the length up to the window. These will hold the 8" flexible ducts currently there. They will also hold the recessed can lights i'm going to put in. I may very well use them as the feed and return lines for the room as well. I've also decided to re-route the gas lines through the soffit, to make it easier to install the drop ceiling.
I'll have to move the existing flexible duct lines to the sides of the room. I'll need to cut back the main branch of the feed supply duct by about 4' to move it outside the partition wall.
I'm attaching WhisperClips clips to just the first two feet of the ceiling and built a false ceiling dropped 1" lower out of 2"x6"x16', which will fully decouple the structure. The existing ceiling joists is stuffed with R-30 unfaced insulation, and finally covered with again two 5/8" layers of drywall and GG.
Cost and Materials
This table is based on my researched costs, comparing lowes and Home depot. In most cases home depot won. Taxes are based on a 6.75% rate here in ohio.
I've broken it into categories, and subtotaled it by what I plan to spend, and what I've actually spent to date. I've actually renovated my workshop as part of this build, and added that to the total cost (i.e. electrical, lighting and table saw)
EDIT: This is the final cost of the theater build proper. It excludes things like the seats and electronics, as I re-used the speakers / receiver / projector I already had from theater 1.0. The final tally will be right around the $11,000 mark once we add in seats.
|Wall Materials Thickness|
|2 sheets drywall 5/8||1.25|
|Total wall penetration:||6.25|