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post #1 of 178 Old 12-27-2008, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
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just bought a house and am in the process of planning out my home theater wife says i can go all out as long as our bills are paid on time and the man dont come and take it back...sooooo im gonna take a few pix today and you tell me where i should put this crap... ill be back later with the pix

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post #2 of 178 Old 12-28-2008, 08:42 AM
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Bring it on! A floor plan with dimensions in addition to pictures will allow us to provide more insight.

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post #3 of 178 Old 12-28-2008, 09:00 AM - Thread Starter
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ok heres some pix like i promised, heres the deal we have plenty of windows in our basement but she wants me to put the screen on the concrete wall because she thinks theres a leak by the other end of basement where one of the windows is...i dont believe that myself but i plan on sealing up that window and everything around it after i tear down all that paneling.... so any suggestions?










oh and yes, theres a slight slant as it goes down towards the window... and the space is about 13.6 inches across and oh say 25 feet long....or i can shorten it dont matter....just some ideas...

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post #4 of 178 Old 12-28-2008, 12:32 PM
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Where are the stairs? I guess the 13.5' is the distance from those white columns to the side walls?

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post #5 of 178 Old 12-28-2008, 12:45 PM
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Another victim of Plywood Minnesota hoax on DIY home owners that Faux wood paneling was perfect for a basement. You could tie a load on just about anything with four wheels and take it home.

Didn't take a lot of skill or tools to put it up.
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post #6 of 178 Old 12-28-2008, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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the stairs are in the way back behind the furnace in the one pic... bout 10-15 feet to be exact and yes the 13 is between the pillars and the wall, and the stupid paneling is held up with furing or whatever theyre called strips, with ugh....styrofoam behind them. the wife wants me to leave them up saying theres nothing wrong with paneling...i told her helll no!!!

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post #7 of 178 Old 12-31-2008, 08:30 AM - Thread Starter
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hopefully starting today with some walls and such...ill keep it posted...

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post #8 of 178 Old 12-31-2008, 11:47 AM
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Wow - we have a very similiar space and size, including the windows! Good luck - that paneling sucks.
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post #9 of 178 Old 01-02-2009, 03:47 PM - Thread Starter
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i plan on just putting drywall over it... its already pretty sturdy, im on a very very tight budget... besides its already got some kind of insulation behind it...

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post #10 of 178 Old 01-06-2009, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Update... decided to move a couple of the posts out and down and re-enforce the beam making this baby 26ft long and 16ft wide... got my money today for it and will be starting construction soon!!!!! hopefully by the end of the week if not sooner

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post #11 of 178 Old 01-14-2009, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Updates on the way!

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post #12 of 178 Old 01-14-2009, 08:21 AM
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How are you going about reinforcing the beam ?

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post #13 of 178 Old 01-14-2009, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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a 16 foot piece of iron bolted to the exsisting beam and another board over that and straps along with the columns on the sides. or something like that

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post #14 of 178 Old 01-14-2009, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
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whew... more to come later tonight hopefully

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post #15 of 178 Old 01-14-2009, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arc trooper View Post

a 16 foot piece of iron bolted to the exsisting beam and another board over that and straps along with the columns on the sides. or something like that


How thick is the plate? Are you putting a plate on both sides or just one?

Don't bring the house down before the show starts.
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post #16 of 178 Old 01-14-2009, 11:06 AM
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Don't want to burst your bubble but if you are moving posts you probably need to dig out the concrete floor and pour a code legal footer.

Slapping a pole just anywhere on a concrete floor can lead to that sinking feeling in the years to come.

It's not a big deal, you need to cut out a 2x2 (please verify dimension) section of the floor, dig the required depth, then fill it up with some new concrete.
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post #17 of 178 Old 01-14-2009, 12:58 PM
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As a structural engineer myself, I would suggest you get a structural engineer in to make sure this idea of yours will work. Nothing ruins the experience of watching a movie more than having a house collapse on you.
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post #18 of 178 Old 01-14-2009, 01:59 PM
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Is that Beam three 2x10 nailed together ?

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post #19 of 178 Old 01-14-2009, 03:17 PM - Thread Starter
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i would think they are nailed together and if worse comes to worse we can always just leave the columns there and not do that the guy ive got doin this has built stuff like this in the past and is pretty knowledgeable bout this kinda stuff i trust him. plus were putting another board on the otherside and such but it will work just fine. in 2 months if it all comes down you can all say i told you so and ill post pix!

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post #20 of 178 Old 01-15-2009, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arc trooper View Post

in 2 months if it all comes down you can all say i told you so and ill post pix!

I guess thats a fair deal. Carry on then...
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post #21 of 178 Old 01-15-2009, 06:51 AM
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I'm getting a preemptive "I told you so" just in case you don't make it.

Best of luck though

Who is holding the money?

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post #22 of 178 Old 01-15-2009, 08:44 AM
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I think you mean he's bolting a steel flitch plate to the side of it?

This really isn't something you can do by eye. I would get a design professional to look at it. I think it can be pretty easily done, but you need to run the math. What thickness plate is he using? .125? .5?

A triple 2x10 should really do no more than 8 or 9 feet in the best of conditions. Of course, it depends on the design of the house and what your snow load is. Logically, you should be able to get more out of it with a steel plate, but who knows.

Deflection is as much a concern as failure.

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post #23 of 178 Old 01-15-2009, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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the steel is 3/8 inch thick so im pretty sure its going to work and like i said hes done stuff like this in the past and its worked well to date the load on the house is pretty evenly spaced and the bedrooms are right above the theater so theres hardly anything there to begin with.

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post #24 of 178 Old 01-15-2009, 06:35 PM - Thread Starter
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heres the rack in its varying stages....

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post #25 of 178 Old 01-16-2009, 03:50 AM
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Looking good.

You may want to think about changing your water line over to copper or plastic. The galvanized pipe is just a problem waiting to happen.

If you used pex, you could drill the floor joists and have the line concealed in the ceiling.

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post #26 of 178 Old 01-16-2009, 06:05 AM
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So your keeping the paneling up in that space behind the rack?
You mentioned you were tearing it down, I know your probably procastinating on it cause once you start there's no going back.

What's the plan to maintan access behind the rack and water line? Are you planning to cover the frame (including the frame to the side of the rack) with fabric panels or something that's removeable?
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post #27 of 178 Old 01-16-2009, 06:05 PM - Thread Starter
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yeah the pipe is isnt an issue right now maybe next year but the rack lol had to be redone a lil bit since we forgot about the glass that goes in it! lol anyways were going to make a access panel on the right side so i can get back there and tweak anything i need to after its all done

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post #28 of 178 Old 01-16-2009, 10:04 PM
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Looks like my neighbor did all the previous owners wiring down there...
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post #29 of 178 Old 01-18-2009, 05:08 PM - Thread Starter
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yeah the wiring was a pain but we re-did some of it and moved stuff around and put 95% of the components on its own breaker

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post #30 of 178 Old 01-20-2009, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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well tomorrow we start the steel beam part... brought in a specialist and he did the math and it will work cost me an extra 200.00 but it was worth it to calm the wife! heres some more pix


the last pic is me and the guy in the way of the wife takin pix, said she didnt wanna wait for us to move!

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Last edited by arc trooper; 06-16-2014 at 04:59 PM.
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