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post #91 of 4472 Old 02-04-2009, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

Thanks - do you have a lens or do you zoom? I would use the zoom method and curtains for masking until I was willing to pony up the extra $$ for those two.

Do you just watch 16:9 with no masking in place then? How does it look?

I zoom... With the Panasonic AE3000 projector, zooming to fill certain aspect ratios is made easy since this projector can save the zoom position and focus. I have saved settings for 2.35:1 and 16:9, select the one I want, and the projector zooms and focuses for me.

Correct.. I do not use masking for 16:9 material. It doesn't bother me at all, though if I find a simple/cheap solution, I may eventually do some sort of masking.
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post #92 of 4472 Old 02-04-2009, 01:34 PM
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There is a good chance the 23 inches will work just fine. It's all about the size of your gear and what kind of sound treatments you are planning. But if I were in your shoes I'd take that remnant of a wall out all together. Then frame out the room and complete a total drywall shell. Then re-erect the false wall inside the drywall room using the minimalist principle.

If you ever need to adjust the wall for a "bigger" speaker purchase later you can. Having the drywall shell will aid in sound containment. And, it will actually be easier to drywall with that frame out of the way.
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post #93 of 4472 Old 02-04-2009, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

There is a good chance the 23 inches will work just fine. It's all about the size of your gear and what kind of sound treatments you are planning. But if I were in your shoes I'd take that remnant of a wall out all together. Then frame out the room and complete a total drywall shell. Then re-erect the false wall inside the drywall room using the minimalist principle.

If you ever need to adjust the wall for a "bigger" speaker purchase later you can. Having the drywall shell will aid in sound containment. And, it will actually be easier to drywall with that frame out of the way.

Hey guess what? I agree with Big!

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post #94 of 4472 Old 02-04-2009, 02:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok thanks we'll tear that one down too and build a new one after drywall. How deep would you make the dead space? I have the paradigm studio 40's now which are 12" deep, and in thinking of the future, the biggest I would go would be the studio 100's or the signature series and those are 17" deep.

So let's figure my speakers are/could be 17" deep and let's figure I do 1" linacoustic everywhere and then 4" mineral fiber directly behind each speaker. So that alone would be 22" and then we need some space in back and front of the speaker - so is like 3' good? And should I do the 4" of mineral fiber behind each LCR?

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post #95 of 4472 Old 02-04-2009, 02:38 PM
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Looking very good!

Rinker Family Cinema Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=Rinker
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post #96 of 4472 Old 02-04-2009, 02:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks! I just read your build thread and I think I'm gonna copy your idea of the bass traps in the corners of the dead space

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post #97 of 4472 Old 02-04-2009, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Is this drawing of the new front wall with the speaker placement/framing of the false wall look ok?



The height placement of the screen will probably be more towards the ceiling since there is a riser, and it's not to scale, but it should give an idea.

I'll install some blocking at the top where the screen mount will be. Would it better to frame out a "picture window" once I know the placement of the screen so there are no studs behind the screen surface, or does it not matter much?

And is it more important for the tweeters on the speakers to be at ear level when seated or be in the middle of the screen? I'm going to build some boxes and fill them with sand and use them for stands.

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post #98 of 4472 Old 02-04-2009, 08:14 PM
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One thing I was wondering is if the top and bottom panels need to be 2 pieces just for ease of handling.

I'm also not familiar with the SMX screen and it's hanging method. You should verify that your frame design has the right number of attachment points and that they are in the right locations.
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post #99 of 4472 Old 02-04-2009, 08:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

One thing I was wondering is if the top and bottom panels need to be 2 pieces just for ease of handling.

Maybe so that's a good point thanks. I guess they should be otherwise they'd be like 13' wide.

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I'm also not familiar with the SMX screen and it's hanging method. You should verify that your frame design has the right number of attachment points and that they are in the right locations.

Yes I definitely will, that's where the blocking will come into play.

Thanks for the help. Does everything else look ok?

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post #100 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 06:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I guess I'm gonna go with 3'. Should the false wall go in before or after carpet? Should I put a light behind there like Ruben did?

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post #101 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

I guess I'm gonna go with 3'. Should the false wall go in before or after carpet? Should I put a light behind there like Ruben did?

Light is completely optional. I didn't do it, though I thought about it.

The SMX screen mounts on an 8' metal bracket that screws to the wall. The top edge of the frame hooks on to it, similar to a french cleat.

http://www.smxscreen.com/Pro-Line-White-Paper.pdf

I built my false wall after the carpet, though that was mainly due to my design. If you are building it more like a traditional wall, then you might want to build it before carpeting.
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post #102 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

I guess I'm gonna go with 3'. Should the false wall go in before or after carpet? Should I put a light behind there like Ruben did?

3' should leave you plenty of options.

Are you doing a stage or just a false wall? IMO there is no point in carpeting something that will never be seen so I would build the wall (or stage and wall) first.

The lights are entirely up to you. Most people don't have the elaborate setup behind the screen that Ruben does. His alternating panels and matched speakers are great candidates for showing off. The question is, do you want to show off 1" Linacoustic and your Paradigms? Only you can answer that.

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post #103 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the fast replies

Just talked to the contractor and we're adding the light, he planned to anyway, but he was going to put the switch behind the screen wall. So I asked him to put it before the screen wall so I could flip it on and see the speakers. If it doesn't look good when it's all done, I guess I'll just never use it except to tinker around back there.

Ok thanks, we'll do the wall before the carpet. So just terminate the carpet into the 2x4 framing of the false wall, then the fabric panels cover the edge?

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post #104 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 12:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Several updates

Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos View Post

In addition to what Big has mentioned where is your sub going?

Today I was able to fish a sub cable (actually two for futureproof) to the front stage to the rack, so now the sub will be on the front wall and I've fixed the sub on the rear wall problem.. yay I still have the prewire to the rear wall, so I guess in the future I could do one on the front wall and one on the rear.

Quote:
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One more shot over the bow. Isn't that riser curved the wrong way?

And today we talked about ripping out the bow and making it straight across. They're doing that tomorrow. It's gonna leave about an 8' riser in the back and then in front, there's about 11 feet in front of the riser for another row of seats.

I'm really happy with the changes being made. Thanks for all the advice, I feel like I'm not sacrificing anything anymore.

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post #105 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

Several updates



Today I was able to fish a sub cable (actually two for futureproof) to the front stage to the rack, so now the sub will be on the front wall and I've fixed the sub on the rear wall problem.. yay I still have the prewire to the rear wall, so I guess in the future I could do one on the front wall and one on the rear.



And today we talked about ripping out the bow and making it straight across. They're doing that tomorrow. It's gonna leave about an 8' riser in the back and then in front, there's about 11 feet in front of the riser for another row of seats.

I'm really happy with the changes being made. Thanks for all the advice, I feel like I'm not sacrificing anything anymore.

Is your GC ready to quit yet?

I think you'll be much happier in the end. Good moves all around.

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post #106 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 12:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by In2Photos View Post

Is your GC ready to quit yet?

HAHA I ask him that every time I make a change.

Well our contract states he pays a 10% penalty if he runs past a certain date and because the doors are running so late he's going to run past that date. I wouldn't ever hold him accountable for it anyway because it's not his fault, it's the trim company's. But he feels bad for it, and is willing to do the work to make up for the delay so I'm using it to my advantage and making the changes

And he's said numerous times he wants pictures of the room for his portfolio so I think he wants to make it look the best it can

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post #107 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

HAHA I ask him that every time I make a change.

Well our contract states he pays a 10% penalty if he runs past a certain date and because the doors are running so late he's going to run past that date. I wouldn't ever hold him accountable for it anyway because it's not his fault, it's the trim company's. But he feels bad for it, and is willing to do the work to make up for the delay so I'm using it to my advantage and making the changes

And he's said numerous times he wants pictures of the room for his portfolio so I think he wants to make it look the best it can

Bonus!

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post #108 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 04:48 PM - Thread Starter
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It looks like they got to it today! The riser has been cut down so it's straight now so I can have two rows They also tore down the old front wall and insulated. The space back there now is 36"!

The electrician is coming tomorrow to add an outlet back there for the sub and add in a light. Then after that drywall. I thought about the light switch for behind the screen and didn't like the idea of seeing it on the wall before the screen, so I bought a remote control lutron one from Home Depot and then install it behind the screen. So now if I wanna show someone the speakers behind the screen I just use the remote control

Eventually (if it really looks cool or if I can even see them at all), I may upgrade to 3 of the same speaker for a better, cleaner look, but I've spent enough this month





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post #109 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

I thought about the light switch for behind the screen and didn't like the idea of seeing it on the wall before the screen, so I bought a remote control lutron one from Home Depot and then install it behind the screen. So now if I wanna show someone the speakers behind the screen I just use the remote control

Glad you changed your mind. That was the first thing that I thought of when I had read you were contemplating putting a switch in front of the false wall. Progress looks great! Did I already mention how cool that door is .
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post #110 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 06:32 PM
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Curious why all of your trim is up already. Are you doing fabric walls over the linacoustic? If so, you will need the trim spots to hide the staples. Otherwise, it may be a very tricky wrap.
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post #111 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 06:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

Curious why all of your trim is up already. Are you doing fabric walls over the linacoustic? If so, you will need the trim spots to hide the staples. Otherwise, it may be a very tricky wrap.

I agree, that might be tricky

Not doing linacoustic wrap except for the front wall behind the screen, just acoustic panels in between several of the columns. I hope it will turn out ok

I have several of the panels that I've made in my temp theater (spare bedroom) and the difference it makes on the acoustics in the room is incredible. Kind of hard to believe some fabric covered insulation makes that big of a difference.

They spray the trim (once it's installed) and I can't do anything with the panels and such until they spray the trim and paint the walls.

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post #112 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 07:01 PM
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Ok, with the acoustic panels you should be fine. Again, looks great. Is this your GC's first HT build?
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post #113 of 4472 Old 02-05-2009, 07:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Good to hear Yes his first and my first for that matter. He's actually the lead trimmer for my builder of the house - he does amazing work, the man can build literally anything. He's branching out to do his own thing while the building industry is so slow. He's done a lot of other basements and small jobs but no HT's before.

I did have a theater in the past, but I was not involved it the build of it at all. For instance, the old one was basically just a room in the basement that they added a projector, screen, speakers and woodwork to. It was only 720p, no double drywall, no insulation, double doors with huge gaps under them, in-wall subs that rattled like crazy..lot's of problems. This time around I said I'm gonna do it right. Little did I know I was messing it up, but now I think I'm on the right track

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post #114 of 4472 Old 02-06-2009, 04:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

Good to hear Yes his first and my first for that matter. He's actually the lead trimmer for my builder of the house - he does amazing work, the man can build literally anything. He's branching out to do his own thing while the building industry is so slow. He's done a lot of other basements and small jobs but no HT's before.

I did have a theater in the past, but I was not involved it the build of it at all. For instance, the old one was basically just a room in the basement that they added a projector, screen, speakers and woodwork to. It was only 720p, no double drywall, no insulation, double doors with huge gaps under them, in-wall subs that rattled like crazy..lot's of problems. This time around I said I'm gonna do it right. Little did I know I was messing it up, but now I think I'm on the right track

Same here. While my GC has done basements, house renovations, etc. my build is his first HT (and MY first build too). I have been documenting the progress with a pictorial compendium. I've told him several times how I have just added another dimension to his portfolio. I think the entire build (including other areas of the basement) came out much nicer than he was expecting (good thing, otherwise he may have been tempted to up his estimate).
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post #115 of 4472 Old 02-06-2009, 08:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

Same here. While my GC has done basements, house renovations, etc. my build is his first HT (and MY first build too). I have been documenting the progress with a pictorial compendium. I've told him several times how I have just added another dimension to his portfolio. I think the entire build (including other areas of the basement) came out much nicer than he was expecting (good thing, otherwise he may have been tempted to up his estimate).

I think it really helps when they care about the outcome too (for their portfolio) otherwise I'd think they would take whatever shortcuts they can to make the most buck.

Ok one more update, I'm thinking of returning the Paradigm Ultracube 10 and getting a SVS sub, like maybe the ultra. Anyone have one of these behind an AT screen - does it work ok, and does it move the air too much and shake the screen?

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post #116 of 4472 Old 02-06-2009, 12:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Well from some feedback on the sub forum and from SVS, I gathered it's probably better to go with the PC13-Ultra over the PB as the PC is downward firing. I'm not sure the PB would have caused any screen vibrations, but I think the PC would be a safe bet and from what I understand they're very similar in sound.

I returned the Paradigm Ultracube and bought the PC13-Ultra. I'm excited to see how much better it sounds than the cube

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post #117 of 4472 Old 02-06-2009, 06:14 PM - Thread Starter
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More progress today..

They double drywalled the new front wall and started the mud. I told them they don't need to sand

So I followed SatelliteGuy's build and did bass traps in the corners (I also put some on the ceiling). What I plan to do (after they spray the trim) is staple the linacoustic all around the front area and cover those up, so it looks like one big black hole. I followed some of the acoustic threads advice and cut a 24x48x4 panel of mineral wool in half and put it in back of the full size ones. So in the corners there's really 8" of bass trap





I also built one of the stands Im gonna use for the studio 40's. The tweeter height on the 40's is 20", so I made these 28" tall to put all the tweeters at 48" high. I've never built anything before so I know it doesn't look great. I plan to fill it with sand after painting it black. For aesthetics, I am not sure about the top of it, whether I should make it the same size as the speaker bottom or leave it bigger like it is?



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post #118 of 4472 Old 02-06-2009, 08:10 PM
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Hey, I have one almost like that. Be sure to fill it with sand close to the final position where it will sit. It will weigh more than you thought.

Cut the top to the size of the speaker or smaller. Anything bigger creates an opportunity for an unwanted sound reflection.
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post #119 of 4472 Old 02-06-2009, 08:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Hey, I have one almost like that. Be sure to fill it with sand close to the final position where it will sit. It will weigh more than you thought.

Cut the top to the size of the speaker or smaller. Anything bigger creates an opportunity for an unwanted sound reflection.

I'll bet yours looks better than mine

Ok I'll cut the tops down to speaker bottom size. Should I wrap the stands in linacoustic you think to minimize reflections? Thanks

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post #120 of 4472 Old 02-07-2009, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
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I'll bet yours looks better than mine

Ok I'll cut the tops down to speaker bottom size. Should I wrap the stands in linacoustic you think to minimize reflections? Thanks


Not really. I mean how good can a sand filled MDF box painted black look?



Wrapping in Linacoustic never occurred to me but I guess why not.
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