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post #1 of 4472 Old 01-02-2009, 03:47 PM - Thread Starter
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"Pretty Much Finished" Pics!







Popcorn Hour - Movie Jukebox



Anthem ARC Speaker Graphs



Equipment List

Sim2 C3X1080 Projector
Panamorph UH480 Anamorphic Lens
SMX Proline 150" Wide 2:35 AT Screen
Paradigm Reference 100s v5's for LCR
Paradigm Reference ADP-590 v5 for Surrounds
Paradigm Reference 10's v5 for Rears
SVS PC13-Ultra Subwoofer
Anthem AVM50v Pre Pro
Anthem MCA50 Power Amp for surrounds and rears
Anthem MCA30 Power Amp for LCR
Oppo BDP-83 Blu Ray Player
Panamax 5300PM
Harmony 890
Roku Player
Popcorn Hour A110
HP M9500 HTPC


unRAID Movie Sever - 32TB of Storage!:

Norco 4220 case
SUPERMICRO AOC-SAT2-MV8 R Sata Cards
Corsair 750HX PSU
Corsair 4gb ddr3 Ram
Intel Core2 Duo E7500 Processor
SUPERMICRO MBD-C2SBX Mobo
Noctua NF-R8 Raised-Blade design and SSO Bearing Fans
Scythe Kaze-Jyuni SY1225SL12H 120x25mm 1600 rpm 3pin 33 dBA 88.11CFM Fans

Acoustic Treatment:
Behind False Wall:
2" Linacoustic with 10" bass traps in corners

All Around Room:
1" Linacoustic Panels Covered in Black GOM FR701 (Floor to Ceiling side and rear walls)


Still left to do:
2nd row of seats?


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We just built a new house and now we're finishing the basement which is where my new theater is going. The dedicated room finished space will be 14.5x21.5. It will have a stage with a raised platform for seating, fluted columns, suspended crown with rope lighting, sconces and the whole bit - I can't wait!

My inspiration for my new theater is this pic:


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post #2 of 4472 Old 01-05-2009, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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And now for the pics - I'll take more as it progresses.

Just finished the pre wire on it and the contractor just finished the stage!






Oh and we're doing a hidden door to enter into the room that mimics a ticket booth. My inspiration for that is this pic:



We drywall next week!

Just insulated today for better soundproofing - hopefully stocking drywall tomorrow!

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post #3 of 4472 Old 01-05-2009, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh and I also ended up running a whole new set of speaker cable to each of the 7 speakers. I was afraid if something happened to one I'd atleast have a backup. That and I ran 16 gauge to the fronts and with all the jogging around the romex it ended up being like 40-50 foot runs each. So I ran a new set of 14AWG everywhere just to be safe. And then on the projector, I thought I'd do the same, so I ran 2 hdmi's, one component, and two cat5's. Here's hoping the drywallers don't mess up my wires or forget to pull them out

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post #4 of 4472 Old 01-05-2009, 07:50 PM
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Welcome to the forum I like the inspiration and your adaptation. It should be a great looking space.

Just so you know, in the picture it looks like the contractor used untreated lumber in contact with the cement (usually a code violation) and if your plan for soundproofing is all that insulation you may be surprised how loud the theater will sound upstairs. If that isn't important to you, full speed ahead.

Since I started raining all over your parade you should be aware that the niches you are building for those great L/R/C speakers will compromise the overall sonic quality.

My intention is not to criticize only to give you an honest heads up so that the space meets your expectations.
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post #5 of 4472 Old 01-05-2009, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you for the info! The lumber issue I am not sure about, but it is set about an inch or so away from all exterior walls, but it does of course touch the concrete floor. And we're doing double drywall, in addition to the insulation, but that will most likely be it. Believe it or not, my last theater had neither, no insulation and no double drywall. Sound did carry though, nothing horrible, just when I had it up loud. So hopefully on this it will be a little better.

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post #6 of 4472 Old 01-05-2009, 08:12 PM
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Good that you are doing double drywall, did you think about using Green Glue while you are at it?

Yes, it is the bottom plates on the wall framing that caught my eye. They may not be fussy in your county and the contractors don't bother.

I do now see that you have isolated ceiling joists which is VERY GOOD.
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post #7 of 4472 Old 01-05-2009, 08:18 PM
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One more shot over the bow. Isn't that riser curved the wrong way?
A lot of HT seating is arranged in a slight curve aimed at the screen. Not a problem if you are only planning one row on the riser.
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post #8 of 4472 Old 01-05-2009, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Since I started raining all over your parade you should be aware that the niches you are building for those great L/R/C speakers will compromise the overall sonic quality.

My intention is not to criticize only to give you an honest heads up so that the space meets your expectations.

I do appreciate the help and criticism..good or bad

And yeah I know about the niche problem. It's more of a aesthetics thing for me. In the old theater I had in-wall speakers - I opted to go with the paradigms on the recommendation from a friend instead of the in-walls.

When he found out about the niches I'm putting them in he started talking about why put a box inside of a box. I realize it's not the best scenario, but I hope this is atleast as good as my old crappy in-wall speakers. I am not the most highly sensitive listener, so I'm not sure I would even be able to tell.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Good that you are doing double drywall, did you think about using Green Glue while you are at it?

I just read about it today - do you think it's worth it?

Thanks,
Shawn

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post #9 of 4472 Old 01-05-2009, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

One more shot over the bow. Isn't that riser curved the wrong way?
A lot of HT seating is arranged in a slight curve aimed at the screen. Not a problem if you are only planning one row on the riser.


Yes only planning on one row...for now. It currently bowes towards the screen. I attached a picture of it..
LL

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post #10 of 4472 Old 01-05-2009, 08:25 PM
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I see that you have isolated ceiling joists which is great. That will help isolate theater sound. The GG will help tame the bass migration.

You can read the test results at www.soundproofingcompany.com
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post #11 of 4472 Old 01-05-2009, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I see that you have isolated ceiling joists which is great. That will help isolate theater sound. The GG will help tame the bass migration.

You can read the test results at www.soundproofingcompany.com

Glad something is right!!!!

Thank you for the info and the help. If you see anything else or can recommend any other tips please let me know.

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post #12 of 4472 Old 01-06-2009, 06:14 AM
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Looks pretty cool. I like your last theater as well.

In addition to what Big has mentioned where is your sub going?

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post #13 of 4472 Old 01-06-2009, 08:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Ah yes the sub problem. Well we didn't want the sub sitting in the front of the room and couldn't figure out how to hide it well, so I ran two prewires - one on the back wall with a long enough cord to go anywhere on the back wall. And another one on the long side wall opposite of the entrance.

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post #14 of 4472 Old 01-08-2009, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Anyone know of a good acoustic panel? Do they help block sound from going to other rooms of the house, or only make the sound better in the theater?

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post #15 of 4472 Old 01-08-2009, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

or only make the sound better in the theater?

They are really easy to make, you can pick from an almost infinite choice of fabric colors.
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post #16 of 4472 Old 01-08-2009, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post

Anyone know of a good acoustic panel? Do they help block sound from going to other rooms of the house, or only make the sound better in the theater?

It's not hard to do. Acoustic panels have nothing to do with sound isolation (sound-proofing) but are used for sound treatments.

Gpowers has a guide how to build your own frames/panels.

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post #17 of 4472 Old 01-08-2009, 09:47 AM
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GIK acoustics is one on-line vendor. He will do custom fabric work on request.
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post #18 of 4472 Old 01-09-2009, 10:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. Do hanging curtains on side/back help as well? And I'm painting the walls black and trim gold - I use eggshell on all my other walls and semi gloss on my trim, but in the theater, should I use flat? And where/how do you do those star ceilings?

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post #19 of 4472 Old 01-09-2009, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnwalters View Post


Are you only going to have seating on the riser? So, just one row of seating altogether? Doesn't seem like there'd be enough room for a row in front of the riser.

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post #20 of 4472 Old 01-09-2009, 08:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Just one row on the riser for now, but may do another on there too. I measured and there is room for two rows (just not two rows of berkline recliners). Eventually I may do a couch or club chairs in front of the riser. I wish I had a bigger room and probably would have made the riser straight instead of bowed. What sucks is the bowed was actually more expensive from my contractor. And my moronic self set the curve the wrong way Oh well, someday maybe I'll have a 3.0 version..if my wife doesn't kill me before then

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post #21 of 4472 Old 01-10-2009, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Now you guys have me thinking. I'm pretty much the only one that's gonna use this theater except for my wife sometimes with me. But now I wondering what I would do if I did want to add another row. Work it work with my current setup. It seems two rows on the platform is gonna be pretty tight. It's about 10 feet deep. Maybe I should:

1) Have him rip out the bow and just leave it a straight edge (so I could fit one row on and in front of the riser. Probably the easiest fix, but maybe won't look the best?

2) Have him remove the bow and cut into the square and make the bow go the way it was supposed to? Probably the best fix, but the most work and cost.

Thanks

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post #22 of 4472 Old 01-10-2009, 08:03 AM
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I didn't read any real closure on the PT-vs-non-PT lumber on the slab floor question, sorry if I missed it. If it hasn't been addressed, I have a comment.

Lumber manufacturers now use a different chemical when producing pressure treated lumber. They used to use CCA (chomated copper arsonic), but a few years back switched to ACQ (amine copper quat) or CA (copper azone). This is of course in an effort to reduce the health hazards of PT lumber in home building. They still use CCA for industrial-use PT, but you wouldn't find it in home use anymore. Anyway, a lot of these are now much less green colored than in the past, and the lumber might be PT but the green doesn't show up in photos.

The PT that I used in my wall builds is so close to the normal 'yellow' of douglas fir that you can only tell the difference with a side-by-side comparison.

Your build is looking promising Shawn. There's a lot of knowledge here in the forums that can help make your space amazing. I vote to cut the riser flat (slice off the bow) just the possibility of another row in the future. However, I like the design element of it. Still, I'd slice it off. You still have the same detail on the stage wall, so not much lost.

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post #23 of 4472 Old 01-10-2009, 10:11 AM
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I think the sweet spot (visually) for that size screen is to put your row of seating with the front of the chair right about where you have the lip of the riser. Either it's too deep for 2 rows with one in front of the riser or not deep enough for one in the sweet spot. I would re-think.

Just a thought. Since your screen is going to be pretty high you might want to make the level you have now bigger for the front row then add another level for the back row.
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post #24 of 4472 Old 01-10-2009, 10:20 AM
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While you are re-thinking I would move the niche for the center channel up. You want it to be as close to the screen as possible so that the dialog is linked to the image. I can't see a reason to have it so low. If you go to 2 rows of seating the higher the better so the second row sound isn't blocked by the first.



Since I've got the saw out I might rethink the whole front end. If you watch a lot of letter boxed movies the image is really going to be pretty small for this size room and the one row of seating which looks to be at about 16 ft.

If the drywall isn't up I tear out all the framing, do a false wall covered with acoustically transparent fabric, put your speakers (including) sub behind an acoustically transparent 2:35 SMX screen and the fabric covered wall, See QueenDVD2 thread:



This would solve your small screen problem and put your speakers in an enviornment where they can shine.
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post #25 of 4472 Old 01-10-2009, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you javadoc and BigMouth! So BigMouth, your saying to extend the platform a couple feet more towards the screen, and then on top of that platform add a second platform bowed the correct way? I gotta see if my contractor is gonna kill me or not If he is or if it is prohibitively too expensive I may just trim back the platform. What is a good depth for each platform (given my space), like 6 feet? And then on the center channel - they just started drywalling darn it Anyway, so try to move it up to just under the top of the stage?

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post #26 of 4472 Old 01-10-2009, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Since I've got the saw out I might rethink the whole front end. If you watch a lot of letter boxed movies the image is really going to be pretty small for this size room and the one row of seating which looks to be at about 16 ft.

If the drywall isn't up I tear out all the framing, do a false wall covered with acoustically transparent fabric, put your speakers (including) sub behind an acoustically transparent 2:35 SMX screen and the fabric covered wall, See QueenDVD2 thread:

Didn't see this part, yes too late drywall is up and this would kill my budget and timeline. I should have posted all my plans on here before I started the build

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post #27 of 4472 Old 01-10-2009, 10:42 AM
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See my edits, I just cut deeper into your design.

You need 6 ft 8 inches for a berkline recliner. I would build an 8 ft rear riser because you don't want your backs to the wall you need some space for the surround sound. Then 6'- 8" for the front. That will put your first row eyes at 11.5 which is fine.

But again your screen is too small for 2:35 material.
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post #28 of 4472 Old 01-10-2009, 10:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

But again your screen is too small for 2:35 material.

Oh don't tell me that! I wanted a 133" screen and everybody from friends to salesmen to "experts" all talked me out of it as they said it was too big for that size room and my projector wasn't bright enough for it, which is why I settled on 119".

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post #29 of 4472 Old 01-10-2009, 10:58 AM
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That space looks smaller that a 119.

Take some blue tape downstairs and tape the outline for what a movie is going to look like on your screen. Not a football game, a movie and stand back where you were planning to put your one row of seating and ask yourself am I at the movies (the immersive experience) or am I watching a large screen TV in a very nice room.

Since It's mostly for you, get a row of seating where it needs to be.

I'll be back with the dimensions to tape in a minute.
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post #30 of 4472 Old 01-10-2009, 11:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes it does look small in these pictures. My screen viewable size is 58" x 104". What you see framed flat is 110" x 64". I actually installed it and the projector at the framing stage to see if it's gonna work and it worked. Not saying the image size worked, just the throw distance, screen alignment etc. My theater chairs were "planned" to go about 1 foot from the edge of the platform curve. So that would put my 'main' row of seating somewhere about 12-13 feet back from the screen. I do agree a bigger screen is better though

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