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post #421 of 1151 Old 05-07-2010, 10:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Can anyone explain the benefits to mounting a projector no higher than the top of the screen? Assuming that the projector has sufficient vertical shift what is the downside of mounting it 8-10" higher? [If it makes a difference I plan on a CIH anamorphic setup]

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post #422 of 1151 Old 05-07-2010, 10:27 PM
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Count me as another that is ashamed of my craftsmanship. Seeing this quality of work makes me realize I need to hire a pro to do my final detailing.

I have my projector mounted about 3" above the top of screen and do CIH without a lens. I notice no issues. Maybe by chance I have a unique projector?

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post #423 of 1151 Old 05-08-2010, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

Can anyone explain the benefits to mounting a projector no higher than the top of the screen? Assuming that the projector has sufficient vertical shift what is the downside of mounting it 8-10" higher? [If it makes a difference I plan on a CIH anamorphic setup]

The main problem is only if you have a masking set up. Since the masks will be a few inches in front of the screen, and there will be a little bit of space between the masks and the reflective screen material, you get a bit of a perpendicular box surrounding the screen. If you mount the projector higher than the top of the screen, there will be a bit of screen not used at the top as the projector can't hit it. I.E. Light doesn't curve.

That being said, for CIH, you might not have a problem depending on how your masking is set up.
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post #424 of 1151 Old 05-08-2010, 09:33 AM
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Also with the panny pj's the lens memory can't adjust perfectly without a slight manual lens shift

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #425 of 1151 Old 05-08-2010, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Good info. Since I don't plan on zooming it appears the downside is in the slight shadow from the screen mask perimeter (I do plan on an masking system). Let's say my mask edge is 1" out from the screen and my projector throw is about 17' and 8" above the screen, That equates to less than 1/16" of potential shadow. This doesn't seem very significant?

Edit: Another thought - if the screen was angled upward ever so slightly then essentially the projector would be mounted level with the top of the screen albeit pointing down a fraction. Anyone done this?

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post #426 of 1151 Old 05-08-2010, 11:15 AM
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Outstanding work Moggie.

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post #427 of 1151 Old 05-08-2010, 11:50 AM
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if your masking a 235 for the 16:9 then your masks are on the side.. the only shadow if any would come from the screen frame... depending on the frame some taper down.. right?

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post #428 of 1151 Old 05-08-2010, 11:53 AM
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or you planning on masking a 16:9 to 2:35?

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post #429 of 1151 Old 05-08-2010, 12:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesB77 View Post

Outstanding work Moggie.

Thanks James.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

if your masking a 235 for the 16:9 then your masks are on the side.. the only shadow if any would come from the screen frame... depending on the frame some taper down.. right?

My masking will be on the sides (CIH). I was planning on building the masking system integrated into the screen frame so there would be a channel top and bottom just behind the black frame for the mask. I guess I could build the masking system in front of the frame but I thought the integrated approach would look better.

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post #430 of 1151 Old 05-10-2010, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

My masking will be on the sides (CIH). I was planning on building the masking system integrated into the screen frame so there would be a channel top and bottom just behind the black frame for the mask. I guess I could build the masking system in front of the frame but I thought the integrated approach would look better.

Gotcha.. possible cost constraints aside, couldnt this be overcome by using Linear actuators from each side for the mask movement, and eliminating the need for Top and Bottom channels?

Your soffit work looks fantastic, the walnut will be a beautiful contrast.

Brad

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post #431 of 1151 Old 05-10-2010, 07:04 PM
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Overall, excellent work and excellent attention to detail!!

I had the star ceiling on my "maybe" list, and I think your experienced may of moved it to my "no way" list. 90+ hrs on that element.... wow. Did you really have 1,000 stars in the ceiling?

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post #432 of 1151 Old 05-10-2010, 07:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

Gotcha.. possible cost constraints aside, couldnt this be overcome by using Linear actuators from each side for the mask movement, and eliminating the need for Top and Bottom channels?
Brad

I'm not sure I follow. Linear actuators used in this way would imply a solid (certainly no AT) mask that could be pushed? Whilst that would be ok for 16:9 masking since the speakers are just inside this dimension it wouldn't work for 4:3. What I was thinking, having read many of the DIY masking threads, was a pair of spring loaded blind rollers on which AT fabric is wrapped. The leading edge would be solid and pulled towards the center by wires. Both left and right side would probably be pulled equally by the same motor -- I would machine a pulley with both left and right thread patterns (got to put that CNC mill/lathe to good use!). To keep the fabric close to the screen but accurately spaced I was thinking of mounting a strip of polished aluminum on the screen fabric with the fabric running over this surface. As usual I'm not sure how it will turn out until I get started which should be reasonably soon now.

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post #433 of 1151 Old 05-10-2010, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_S View Post

Overall, excellent work and excellent attention to detail!!

I had the star ceiling on my "maybe" list, and I think your experienced may of moved it to my "no way" list. 90+ hrs on that element.... wow. Did you really have 1,000 stars in the ceiling?

Robert

Yes, really 1000 stars. Actually closer to 1100 fibers since I wired up a comet animation in two locations just in case the forward location became obnoxious. It did take a lot of time and I'm not sure I'll be building another one any time soon but I'm sure I going to be worth it - the few guests I've had over have all been wowed by it. Perhaps the sensible way to go is to plan your ceiling so you can add a star ceiling in the future when you have spare time or get the itch to upgrade.

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post #434 of 1151 Old 05-11-2010, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

I'm not sure I follow. Linear actuators used in this way would imply a solid (certainly no AT) mask that could be pushed? Whilst that would be ok for 16:9 masking since the speakers are just inside this dimension it wouldn't work for 4:3. What I was thinking, having read many of the DIY masking threads, was a pair of spring loaded blind rollers on which AT fabric is wrapped. The leading edge would be solid and pulled towards the center by wires. Both left and right side would probably be pulled equally by the same motor -- I would machine a pulley with both left and right thread patterns (got to put that CNC mill/lathe to good use!). To keep the fabric close to the screen but accurately spaced I was thinking of mounting a strip of polished aluminum on the screen fabric with the fabric running over this surface. As usual I'm not sure how it will turn out until I get started which should be reasonably soon now.



I was thinking of using a window frame type approach in top and bottom guides .. but I was only planning on masking for 16:9.
The limiting factor is the amount of room on each side of the screen..

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post #435 of 1151 Old 05-11-2010, 08:26 AM
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http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1247288

Guys check out a new affordable masking solution. You may still be able to use the product even if you are making your own screen, but if you are buying it is most likely to work with what your getting. Just thought I'd give you guys a heads up since you may not frequent the CIH area to much.
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post #436 of 1151 Old 05-11-2010, 08:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1247288

Guys check out a new affordable masking solution. You may still be able to use the product even if you are making your own screen, but if you are buying it is most likely to work with what your getting. Just thought I'd give you guys a heads up since you may not frequent the CIH area to much.

Thanks for the heads up. This looks interesting and the price is good. I see you have already asked a question in the thread about curved screens..

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post #437 of 1151 Old 05-11-2010, 09:46 AM
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I did, and adammb just posted that he sent an email asking about curved screens as well. Hopefully good things will come of it.
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post #438 of 1151 Old 05-14-2010, 07:23 AM
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Moggie,

Quick question. What did you use to stuff your soffits? just the normal thermal insulation (ie pink batts)? If so what R-Value?

Cheers,
Simon
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post #439 of 1151 Old 05-14-2010, 08:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Moggie,

Quick question. What did you use to stuff your soffits? just the normal thermal insulation (ie pink batts)? If so what R-Value?

Cheers,
Simon

Simon, the open parts of the soffits are leveraged for some additional bass trapping and filled with 'pink' insulation with a piece of 2" oc703 supporting the bottom face. The oc703 is covered with FSK foil to reflect the higher frequencies. I used whatever r-value I had lying around. The point is just to filled the empty space without overpacking.

Cheers.

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post #440 of 1151 Old 05-14-2010, 08:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I was thinking of using a window frame type approach in top and bottom guides .. but I was only planning on masking for 16:9.
The limiting factor is the amount of room on each side of the screen..

That would certainly work although it is made slighter harder by the fact I'm going to do a curved screen (and the curved guides are the most problematic part of the construction). Would you mount the window frame inside or outside the screen frame border?

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post #441 of 1151 Old 05-14-2010, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

That would certainly work although it is made slighter harder by the fact I'm going to do a curved screen (and the curved guides are the most problematic part of the construction). Would you mount the window frame inside or outside the screen frame border?

Here are some curved tracks. While searching I also found a number of places that will fab any radius. No idea on the cost though...

http://www.condoor.ca/Products/Hardw...Hardware.shtml (scroll down)

http://www.barndoorhardware.com/curv...-hardware.html (scroll down)

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post #442 of 1151 Old 05-14-2010, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Audixium, but these are a little heavy duty don't you think? All that is moving is a small piece of fabric and possibly a lightweight frame.

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post #443 of 1151 Old 05-14-2010, 03:40 PM
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In that case here is a light duty version which you may be able to piece together from IKEA.
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?query=kvartal
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post #444 of 1151 Old 05-14-2010, 08:27 PM - Thread Starter
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In that case here is a light duty version which you may be able to piece together from IKEA.
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?query=kvartal

Now that looks cool. Very cheap too.

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post #445 of 1151 Old 05-22-2010, 11:03 PM - Thread Starter
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What a difference a bit of light makes...

I couldn't resist posting an update since I reached a small milestone today of turning on the first of the theater lights and getting the maple woodwork complete (still got to add all the contrasting walnut trim). Here are a couple of (over exposed) pics.



Here is a pictorial bringing the saga up to date.

I mentioned in a previous post how depressing I found it working in a black and dark cave with only work lights so I took a break and went back to dry-walling/HVAC and electrical work in the theater entrance/lobby.

The first job was to really truly finish up the necessary wiring from theater to external rack closet -- an ongoing process that I never thought would end.



The HVAC work consisted of plumbing the rack closet cooling since I intend to add a sealing glass door. The air flow is from a passive vent underneath the door into a vent in the lower rear of the closet. Then an extraction vent in the ceiling and exiting 10' away from the closet in the lobby ceiling. I made an effort to use up my pile of sheet good scraps and so finished the wall adjacent to the theater with 'Quietwood' prior to GG and drywall. There is actually some logic to this because it provides a study mount for my planned electrically operated sliding hidden entrance -- but more on that later



Ah drywall .. i must admit that whilst I hated the monotony of the double drywall of the theater, a small job like the lobby is actually quite enjoyable. I still have the top mud coat to apply.



You can see the hatch I made above the rack. I built a tiny seat in the "attic" space and it's just big enough to service the extraction fan and all wiring from the theater.



The only remaining work to figure out is to fit some iron railings to this side of the stair and remove the temporary wall rail that I fitted to keep the inspector happy.



I got back in the theater today and managed to get the first coat of finish on the maple. I decided to darken and warm the maple slightly because I was concerned about a ceiling reflection from the screen. I'm not sure but I might have gone a little too amber? The good news I'm using a home brew concoction of aniline dyes and dewaxed shellac and plan a second coat so I may adjust the formula and go a little more brown. Still, it's great to see the wood grain pop and bring the ceiling to life.





Just for fun I wired up the lower tray lights (warm white incandescent). Thank goodness I didn't seal up the path around the future hushbox -- I wasn't thinking about the lights when I built it but luckily there was a nice channel to follow. I think I'm going to build the hushbox in walnut and mount the power, thermostat and cables in the side walls where the wires protrudes currently.



I have a question for anyone who has read this far .. if you look at the first pics of this post, what color rope lighting do you think I should use for the upper light tray? Is was planning to use blue, but I'm wondering if a red light may combine with the spill from the lower lights and create a nice sunset effect... Any opinions?

Finally, I got everything ready for my grafik eye but am not sure how to combine the currently 9 zones. In fact I'm going to be a little underpowered so I fitted a second 20A supply and box which could be used for a second GE or more likely an alternative remote control system of the remainder of the zones. The GE will be out of sight in my theater walk in closet.



The box below the electrical work is going to house one or two source devices like BD player so, in theory, I will never need to open the rack. The use of the space below is still up in the air. Originally it was going to be a media library but things turned out a little more cramped than planned and my wife's DVD/BD collection is out of control (in any case I'll end up ripping these anyway). I latest thought is to build in a little fridge/concession stand or I could just put a door on it and make it a storage cupboard for blankets. Any other ideas?

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post #446 of 1151 Old 05-23-2010, 03:42 AM
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Great work as usual Moggie

I think red might be a good idea for the upper rope light.

What did you use to apply your stain? a brush? or rags?

Cheers,
Simon
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post #447 of 1151 Old 05-23-2010, 05:38 AM
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Lookin' good Moggie!

Mike

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post #448 of 1151 Old 05-23-2010, 05:39 AM
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That really looks great Moggie, nice work! I think I'd have to vote for red for the upper lighting.
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post #449 of 1151 Old 05-23-2010, 05:52 AM
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I love your wiring job! So clean!
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post #450 of 1151 Old 05-23-2010, 06:20 AM
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I say red too. But rope lighting is so cheap you could always just replace it later

Adam

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