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post #91 of 278 Old 03-24-2010, 09:55 PM - Thread Starter
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HVAC is done. I ran 2 supply and 1 return, plus replaced the ducts for upstairs with flex duct. One more thing checked off the list! My wife asked if I could start drywall now...I told her she was nuts. I only have like 40 more things to do!
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post #92 of 278 Old 06-23-2010, 08:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally got back down there today. I built the columns, ran electrical for the sconces & ropelight, and ran the powerbridge. Also carried down about 15 sheets of my drywall...damn you 2 layers of 5/8" drywall! I need to move another 45 sheets or so downstairs.
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post #93 of 278 Old 06-24-2010, 08:06 AM
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Jailguy,

A little advise about your electrical sub panel. I am an electrical engineer and I deal with this stuff all the time. The sub panel the electrician has installed is attached to the concrete and this is considered by the NFPA 70 as an acceptable means of grounding the box (Safety Ground). But not having a back plane can cause problems in itself. The NFPA in Section 250 states that grounds are established at the first point of entry into a service (Home). The Service should only be grounding in more then one location unless the service is leaving the structure to feed a sub panel in an adjacent structure, then and only then should a new ground be established.

As for the cable size. mtbdudex is right on. For a 100A service you are required by code to have a #4 copper or a #2 Alum cable. The only way you can get away with any less is if the service is feed with a small breaker on the main panel side. So if you have the sub panel being feed with a 50A breaker then the electrician can elect to use #8 Copper or #6 Alum. This is not normal practice but is allow as part of the code.

In closing I would have this checked by another electrician because the sub panel should have a safety ground as a precaution but is not 100% necessary per code. The cable size issue is ok per code but your local inspector might feel different about it. The local inspector can over rule the code book and make you do it the way he feels is right so it is always best to not cut corners and use exceptions that the code book allows.

As a piece of mind you have nothing to fear about your families safety. The installation is a little unconventional but your family is safe around this installation. If it was my home I would make it right and install a safety ground back to the main panel.

Just my two cents. Hope it helps!

Tim
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post #94 of 278 Old 07-08-2010, 07:12 AM - Thread Starter
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I finishes all the ceiling insulation and ran all the cat 6 yesterday. Wow, does ceiling insulation suck. I ended up scratching my cornea thanks to some fibers. I'll post some pics later of my progress.
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post #95 of 278 Old 07-09-2010, 06:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Few updated pics.

All the ceiling insulation up... I think I hated this as much as grouting tile.


Working on the rack.


Just got a Panasonic Whisper-Value fan...50CFM, 0.8 sones.


Attic fan thermostat switch for fan.
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post #96 of 278 Old 07-11-2010, 11:44 AM
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Jailguy, just found your thread. Always great to see another Wisconsinite with the same curse that I have I am in Oak Creek. I was actually pretty close to where you are in your build last week with my DD, clips, channel and insulation being delivered. However, a I ruptured my patella Tendon the day after delivery. So I look forward to following your thread during my recovery. Go, Go, Go!!!
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post #97 of 278 Old 07-11-2010, 10:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcizzll View Post

Jailguy, just found your thread. Always great to see another Wisconsinite with the same curse that I have I am in Oak Creek. I was actually pretty close to where you are in your build last week with my DD, clips, channel and insulation being delivered. However, a I ruptured my patella Tendon the day after delivery. So I look forward to following your thread during my recovery. Go, Go, Go!!!

Dang, how'd ya do that?...well get well soon! Not to hi-jack my own thread, but what do you have planned? Dimensions, equipment, etc?

Check out this nice theater under construction. He's down here in Kenosha Co. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=785826
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post #98 of 278 Old 07-12-2010, 10:07 AM
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I was doing something that I'm probably getting a little too old to do, track practice long jump and triple jumps with my son.
Think I'll just stick to golf from now on!
I don't have a thread. Just to give you a quick description of my build.
HT dimensions: 20'6 x14'6 x 7'10H
Screen: Seymour 2.35:1 AT 120" With proscenium
Equipment: 7.1 Klipsch Reference speakers, panny AE4000U projector, 6 zone grafik eye 3106.
Construction: 5/8 DD with GG, whisper clip and channel ceiling, 2 rows of 4 Berkline 13175 with bass shakers and 12" riser for back row so on so forth.....
Ok ok ok, I'm incapacitated here, how about some updates from you!
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post #99 of 278 Old 07-12-2010, 09:17 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm incapacitated too.... it is called work, wife, and 2 kids under 4.

I'm coming up to an 11 day vacation. I hope to start drywalling by the end of next week. (fingers crossed!)

Let me know when you get going again, I'd like to come check it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcizzll View Post

I was doing something that I'm probably getting a little too old to do, track practice long jump and triple jumps with my son.
Think I'll just stick to golf from now on!
I don't have a thread. Just to give you a quick description of my build.
HT dimensions: 20'6 x14'6 x 7'10H
Screen: Seymour 2.35:1 AT 120" With proscenium
Equipment: 7.1 Klipsch Reference speakers, panny AE4000U projector, 6 zone grafik eye 3106.
Construction: 5/8 DD with GG, whisper clip and channel ceiling, 2 rows of 4 Berkline 13175 with bass shakers and 12" riser for back row so on so forth.....
Ok ok ok, I'm incapacitated here, how about some updates from you!

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post #100 of 278 Old 08-07-2010, 04:12 PM
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Jailguy,
Hope you got some work done on those 11 days off. I got my first layer of drywall up on one leg! You dont want the one legged bandit to pass you up now do ya?
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post #101 of 278 Old 08-08-2010, 09:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Ouch... :-)

I didn't even go downstairs of my vacation unfortunately. Between getting ready for a party and fixing a leaky roof that happened during one of our bad storms, I didn't get anything done.

You should start a thread, I'd like to see pics.
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post #102 of 278 Old 08-23-2010, 10:40 PM - Thread Starter
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I just ran my speaker wire and after I was all done, I realized that I ran the LCR wires about 4-5" below 3 of my 20A power lines. DOH!!! I know you aren't supposed to run speaker wires and power wires parallel. Is 4-5" enough or should I move all the wires over a few more inches?
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post #103 of 278 Old 08-24-2010, 05:49 AM
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You should be fine. It is more the line-level audio cables where you have to worry.

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The Dark Knight Theater
(a bunch of good reference links and material in first 15 posts)
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post #104 of 278 Old 08-25-2010, 08:08 AM - Thread Starter
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I've been chugging away...slowly. I only get to work on it about 4 hrs every week or so. I just ran all my speaker wires, LCR, front highs (just in case), rear and side surrounds, and one for the transducers. Should I bother running front wides just in case like I did the front highs? I also got my vent fan up with the vent run. Dang that thing is quiet! (panasonic whisper-value)
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post #105 of 278 Old 08-25-2010, 08:18 AM
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Why not? Also, if you have a screen wall, you may want to run a conduit with a pull string from your equipment area to the area behind the screen wall in case you want to add something later.

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The Dark Knight Theater
(a bunch of good reference links and material in first 15 posts)
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post #106 of 278 Old 08-25-2010, 09:39 PM - Thread Starter
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post #107 of 278 Old 08-26-2010, 05:35 AM
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Speaker locations for Audyssey DSX 10.1:
Channel 1: Left Main (placed 30 degrees to the left of the system centerline, at ear level)

Channel 2: (NEW) Left Height (placed 45 degrees to the left of the center line, and at a 45 degree up-angle relative to ear level)
Channel 3: (NEW) Left Wide (placed 60 degrees to the left of the center line, at ear level)
Channel 4: Left Surround (placed 120 degrees to the left of the system centerline, at or above ear level)
Channel 5: Center Front (placed on the system centerline, front of room, as close to ear level as practicable)
Channel 6: (NEW, Optional) Center Rear (placed on the system centerline, rear of room, at or above ear level)
Channel 7: Right Main (placed 30 degrees to the right of the system centerline, at ear level)
Channel 8: (NEW) Right Height (placed 45 degrees to the right of the center line, and at a 45 degree up angle relative to ear level)
Channel 9: (NEW) Right wide (placed 60 degrees to the right of the center line, at ear level)
Channel 10: Right surround (placed 120 degrees to the left of the system centerline, at or above ear level)
The “.2” Channels: Subwoofer 1 and 2 (positioned for best in-room bass response, but typically might be positioned in left/right front or left/right side locations)


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The Dark Knight Theater
(a bunch of good reference links and material in first 15 posts)
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post #108 of 278 Old 08-28-2010, 06:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I tested all my light yesterday and they looked good. A bit dark, but it is a theater. However I noticed that the rack will be a little too dark. I'm thinking about putting a light in above the rack somehow. I'm looking for other solutions to putting a light in the ceiling itself, since I have no holes in the ceiling. All my lights are in the soffits. I think I will use the 6th zone of my graphic eye for this light. Looking for ideas.

I'm not against using a rack mounted lighting system either.
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post #109 of 278 Old 09-03-2010, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Need some quick help. I hope to throw some drywall up tomorrow, but I forgot about 1 wire. I need to run something from the projector spot to the rack for the IR repeater. (I plan on using a panasonic AE4000 or whatever the replacement is by the time I'm ready)

I can't seem to find out how to wire it. Does the AE4000 use a 1/8" jack or do I have to run one of the IR blasters?
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post #110 of 278 Old 09-07-2010, 06:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Few more updates.

I decided I'll just use a rack mounted light, instead of a spot on the ceiling.

Still trying to decide on the 6th zone for my grafik eye gs. I was thinking something on my stairs, but step lights are a little pricey when you have to buy 12 of them. I was thinking about rope lights, but can't think of a way to mount them without looking like a dorm room. My latest idea is some sort of "picture light" outside the main door to the theater lighting up a sign with the theaters name.

Here are a few pics of where I'm at.

My to-do list is slowly getting smaller.


I need to go through all these RG6 wires, I have no idea where they all go.


Wires coming into the rack.


Wires run to the projector. The pull chain lights will be gone once I get electricity hooked up to the room.


Ceiling


Testing some lights. I have the first layer of drywall up on one soffit.


Testing the screen lights. Don't you love all the hearts and flowers on my "screen"!
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post #111 of 278 Old 09-10-2010, 10:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Just got the last of my wires today. I hope to maybe get a couple pieces of drywall on the ceiling this weekend. What crews are best to use for drywall into the hat channel?
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post #112 of 278 Old 09-11-2010, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jailguy View Post

What crews are best to use for drywall into the hat channel?

Well, a drywall crew of course If you meant screws, these are a popular favorite http://www.grabberman.com/CatBrowser...oC8ss13%2f8%3d

You'll want fine thread for the hat. Streaker or Scavenger will work fine. Just make sure you pick the right length so you don't fasten through the hat up into the joists.
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post #113 of 278 Old 09-11-2010, 07:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Haha, yes I wish I could get a drywall crew, but drywall SCREW is what I meant. So I'll get the fine thread. What is the proper length the screw should go into the hat channel? Obviously not too long to go into the joists. For the first layer would 1" or 1 1/4" be best?

Also, how close together should the screws be apart? I thought I recently read that for ceilings with 5/8" drywall, the screws should be every 8 inches. That seems like quite a bit.
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post #114 of 278 Old 09-11-2010, 08:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry, just thought of one more and I can't seem to find the answer. I'm using whisper clips along with the hat channel. Should the clips be staggered? As of now I have clips every 48" down the line and spaced 24" from the next channel. But should each one be the same as the next or should the be staggered? I hope you get what I'm saying.

Right now I have it like this.
row 1: =][==========][==========][==========][==========][==========][=
row 2: =][==========][==========][==========][==========][==========][=
row 3: =][==========][==========][==========][==========][==========][=
row 4: =][==========][==========][==========][==========][==========][=

But, should it be like this?
row 1: =][==========][==========][==========][==========][==========][=
row 2: =][=====][==========][==========][==========][==========][====][=
row 3: =][==========][==========][==========][==========][==========][=
row 4: =][=====][==========][==========][==========][==========][====][=
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post #115 of 278 Old 09-11-2010, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jailguy View Post

Haha, yes I wish I could get a drywall crew, but drywall SCREW is what I meant. So I'll get the fine thread. What is the proper length the screw should go into the hat channel? Obviously not too long to go into the joists. For the first layer would 1" or 1 1/4" be best?

Also, how close together should the screws be apart? I thought I recently read that for ceilings with 5/8" drywall, the screws should be every 8 inches. That seems like quite a bit.

Grabber spec's these screws at 12-15 threads per inch and indicates that you need to penetrate the metal by 3 full thread pitches, or around 1/4" (check my math ). So, if you have 5/8" drywall plus the 1/4" you should be good with 1" screws, although I think I used 1 1/4". I'd go with the 1 1/4 as it would give you some safety margin and still have plenty of room before you hit the joist.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jailguy View Post

Sorry, just thought of one more and I can't seem to find the answer over at soundproofingcompany.com. I'm using whisper clips along with the hat channel. Should the clips be staggered? As of now I have clips every 48" down the line and spaced 24" from the next channel. But should each one be the same as the next or should the be staggered? I hope you get what I'm saying.

Right now I have it like this.
row 1: =][==========][==========][==========][==========][==========][=
row 2: =][==========][==========][==========][==========][==========][=
row 3: =][==========][==========][==========][==========][==========][=
row 4: =][==========][==========][==========][==========][==========][=

But, should it be like this?
row 1: =][==========][==========][==========][==========][==========][=
row 2: =][=====][==========][==========][==========][==========][====][=
row 3: =][==========][==========][==========][==========][==========][=
row 4: =][=====][==========][==========][==========][==========][====][=

All of the soundproofing installation stuff I've seen has the clips staggered similar to your second pic. I have the guide but you should probably request it from Ted.
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post #116 of 278 Old 09-13-2010, 06:52 AM
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Andy do you not have the SIM for this? It shows the staggered pattern for walls or ceilings, 2 sheets or three.

PM me your email and I'll send you one

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post #117 of 278 Old 09-13-2010, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Andy do you not have the SIM for this? It shows the staggered pattern for walls or ceilings, 2 sheets or three.

PM me your email and I'll send you one

PM sent. Thanks again!
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post #118 of 278 Old 09-13-2010, 07:58 AM
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OK the SIM (Soundproofing Installation Manual) has been sent.

Thanks

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post #119 of 278 Old 09-19-2010, 03:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Just ran some speaker wire for a 3rd sub towards the back of the room. (just in case :-))

A new electrician is coming over in the morning to wire up the sub panel and check out the previous electricians work. Then I plan on getting the first layer of drywall up on the ceiling.
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post #120 of 278 Old 09-20-2010, 06:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a lot done today. I had a new electrician come in and finish wiring up my sub-panel and a few other odds and ends. I had him run a ground wire in the conduit. (look back at the previous pages about this subject) I also got one layer of drywall up one the ceiling.
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