The Ortheum Theater....here we go! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 278 Old 02-09-2009, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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No that isn't a typo. My last name is Orth, so I thought I'd change Orpheum to Ortheum! :-)

Anyways, this is my first "real" theater build. I've been dreaming of having one since I was in junior high. Originally my basement was supposed to be a kids play room/tv room, somehow I convinced my wife to let me take up half of the kids area and add it to mine to make a theater! Don't know how I swung that. I don't really have that much of a budget, so I plan on stretching this out for a year or two. I must say that this forum has been a great inspiration to me, especially Jamis's thread. His layout is roughly the same size as mine. The one downfall to the forum is that I will be spendng WAY more money that I originally planned. I never really thought of soundproofing or sound treatment before.

Original plan.



New plan. (some things have changed, but I don't feel like making a new sketch.






To save on cash I/m going to be using most of my old audio gear. I do plan on buying a new sub and wiring for 7.1 even though my current receiver is 5.1. I may buy new surrounds depending on cash flow.

Equipment is
Receiver: Sony STR-DE545 Onkyo TX-NR929
Fronts: Yamaha NS-A100XT
Center: Yamaha NS-AC40X
Surrounds: Cerwin-Vega HT-S5  Fluance XLBP & Fluance XL7S
Sub: Yamaha YST-SW90 18" Exodus Audio Maelstrom X in NeoDan's Easy Button Max ported box.

Amp: Behringer EP2500 w/ Behringer MIC2200 for high pass filter.

Projector: Panasonic AE8000

Blu-ray Player: Oppo BDP-83 and a random sony one for 3D.

Protection: APC H15BLK



I plan on getting the Panasonic AE3000 for my projector and a DIY Cinescope AT screen somewhere from 110-120"

My dimension are 31ft long / 11ft wide / 7ft tall :-(. The rear of the theater will house a small closet/ equipment rack/ mini fridge/ computer desk, so the overall useful length is 27ft. I'd like to get 2 rows of 3 Berklines, with the 2nd row on a 8" riser and a 3-4 seat bar behind the riser. Yes I know 8" is short but I only will have about 7ft to work with. (less if I do the DIY star ceiling I want) I may put a smaller "mini" riser under just the rear seats. Seats may be harder to get into my shorter people but I'm 6'2" and my wife is 5'10" and I'm making it comfortable for us. One problem I've encountered is my white sewer drain. I'm going to build a column around it and want to make others on both sides to match, but the column has to be 12" off the wall. Subtract 12" on each side from my already narrow 11ft and I'd only have 9ft between them. This is most likely where my front row will be, so I make make the one column 12" and the rest 6". I wonder if that will look strange? For soundproofing I used RCIS DC-04 clips on all 4 walls with a double wall between the kids room and theater. I will be running a soffit around the whole room and that will be decoupled using V-clips. I'm using Whisper clips on the rest of the main ceiling. Everything will be DD & GG.

Here's the door I will be using. I got it for a steal. It is 1¾" thick solid mahogany door.



Here's a couple pictures right when I started.

Looking at the screen wall.



Looking towards the rear where my desk and equipment rack will be.



Kids room.



Back corner framed out.

 

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post #2 of 278 Old 02-13-2009, 10:10 AM - Thread Starter
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All walls are framed and I'm starting to work on the soffits. (you can see them laying on the ground)

Looking towards the screen wall.



Looking back towards the rear.



Closeup of the in-progress equipment closet/built in mini fridge and nook for my built in desk.



Close up of my double wall between the kids play room and the theater. I haven't put up the header on the theater side yet.

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post #3 of 278 Old 02-13-2009, 10:31 AM
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Nice, I always love to follow these threads. Such an inspiration!
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post #4 of 278 Old 02-13-2009, 10:44 AM
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That's a beautiful door. Have you seen that commercial where a young couple asks a big shot architect to design a house around a faucet? You should totally design the look of your theater around that door .
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post #5 of 278 Old 02-15-2009, 06:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilsiu View Post

That's a beautiful door. Have you seen that commercial where a young couple asks a big shot architect to design a house around a faucet? You should totally design the look of your theater around that door .

That's a great idea. I'm may have to use the door to influence my columns and the cabinet doors of my desk.
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post #6 of 278 Old 02-16-2009, 06:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Just had an electrician out to install a 100amp sub-panel. My main breaker had no slots left. The new one will be just for the HT.

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post #7 of 278 Old 02-16-2009, 07:00 AM
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Good luck on your build; it looks like it is going to be really nice! I have two questions:

What program did you use to make that sketch in the beginning? I have been using Google SketchUp for my 3-D modeling, but I am always looking for other programs.

Where did you get that door? Was it a local find, or did you purchase it from a retailer?
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post #8 of 278 Old 02-16-2009, 07:29 AM - Thread Starter
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post #9 of 278 Old 02-21-2009, 01:36 PM
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Subscribing as I love to see local builds!!!! What area of Kenosha are you in?
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post #10 of 278 Old 02-21-2009, 02:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Actually just north of KR in Mt. Pleasant.


I'm kinda at a standstill right now. I can't find 2.5" hat channel anywhere. As soon as I get that I can finish my soffits and run electrical.
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post #11 of 278 Old 02-21-2009, 04:22 PM
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Great space...and great design. Since you have the utility room, consider a DIY Infinite Baffle subwoofer...fairly inexpensive, won't take up any floorspace in the main theater and will outperform ANY box subwoofer in output and SQ. I'd also recommend a DIY acoustically transparent screen for mounting the speakers behind the screen...big savings on the screen and the DIY guys have perfected it to match the performance of commercial offerings many times the price.
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post #12 of 278 Old 02-21-2009, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I am planning on a DIY acoustically transparent screen. However just recently I've been taking a look at the DIY forum and am very interested in doing that for my sub/subs. For now I may use a 12" sub I took out of my car a few years ago and buying a power amp to run it. In the future I'll have quite a bit of room behind the screen for possibly 2 larger subs.
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post #13 of 278 Old 02-22-2009, 08:29 PM
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No need to locate the subs behing the screen, or in the front soundstage either....Forget the car sub, most spec for cabin gain for low end extension, something a theater space won't provide. Post your drivers TS parameters and i'll tell you for sure if it's a wasted effort or not. 1 twelve inch driver is not going to come close to the bass potential you'll need. You've already mentioned some space constraint issues, so i would try and avoid the obvious by placing subs on an already cramped floorplan. Consider the space and the equipment working together as a machine. I've seen many a theater with the shell of a Ferrari equiped with a 4cyl Honda soundsystem. Of course you could always argue that the soundsystem could be uprgaded later, but that often involves more constuction changes to accomadate. While concentrating on the overall design and construction seems a daunting task in it's self, try not to overlook the purpose of all your hard work.
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post #14 of 278 Old 02-22-2009, 08:42 PM
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I hope your Electrician is qualified?? He should have pulled a ground wire in the conduit to the panel because
1. He is using raintight couplings insted of set screw type couplings to join the emt.
2. He goes into a PVC Lb before entering into the panel.
He should make sure everything is grounded and bonded to be at the same potential. Using PVC and EMT does not constitute proper bonding.
Essentially your new panel isn't at the same potential as the feeder panel, and any plugs that he runs from the new panel won't actually be grounded.
Just something I noticed.
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post #15 of 278 Old 02-22-2009, 09:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayhem13 View Post

No need to locate the subs behing the screen, or in the front soundstage either....Forget the car sub, most spec for cabin gain for low end extension, something a theater space won't provide. Post your drivers TS parameters and i'll tell you for sure if it's a wasted effort or not. 1 twelve inch driver is not going to come close to the bass potential you'll need. You've already mentioned some space constraint issues, so i would try and avoid the obvious by placing subs on an already cramped floorplan. Consider the space and the equipment working together as a machine. I've seen many a theater with the shell of a Ferrari equiped with a 4cyl Honda soundsystem. Of course you could always argue that the soundsystem could be uprgaded later, but that often involves more constuction changes to accomadate. While concentrating on the overall design and construction seems a daunting task in it's self, try not to overlook the purpose of all your hard work.

For the most part I'd like to use what I have in the beginning, but make sure everything is setup for the eventual upgrade.

I was thinking about a 15" or 18" sub is a sealed box.
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post #16 of 278 Old 02-22-2009, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragodrago View Post

I hope your Electrician is qualified?? He should have pulled a ground wire in the conduit to the panel because
1. He is using raintight couplings insted of set screw type couplings to join the emt.
2. He goes into a PVC Lb before entering into the panel.
He should make sure everything is grounded and bonded to be at the same potential. Using PVC and EMT does not constitute proper bonding.
Essentially your new panel isn't at the same potential as the feeder panel, and any plugs that he runs from the new panel won't actually be grounded.
Just something I noticed.

He is an electrician by trade. As far as the different pieces of conduit, he said he saved me some money by using parts he had laying around. I dunno, hope that kinda answers your questions. I only know very basic electrical.
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post #17 of 278 Old 02-23-2009, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jailguy View Post

For the most part I'd like to use what I have in the beginning, but make sure everything is setup for the eventual upgrade.

I was thinking about a 15" or 18" sub is a sealed box.

With that utility room next door, you would have an ideal location for Infinite Baffle sub system. Plus it would save you the room in the actual theater. Think about it.
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post #18 of 278 Old 02-23-2009, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LJwelr View Post

With that utility room next door, you would have an ideal location for Infinite Baffle sub system. Plus it would save you the room in the actual theater. Think about it.

I'd like to keep as much sound in the HT as possible. I have 2 young kids and would like to be able to watch movies at night. I know the bass will still travel somewhat, but I'd rather now put it in the utility room.

What about sonotube subs? I've been reading about them today.
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post #19 of 278 Old 02-23-2009, 08:32 PM
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Yes, as long as he has a ground wire between the main panel and the sub panel, everything will be at the same potential. In your pics I was only able to see the red, black and neutral wire, in the conduit.
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post #20 of 278 Old 02-23-2009, 09:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragodrago View Post

Yes, as long as he has a ground wire between the main panel and the sub panel, everything will be at the same potential. In your pics I was only able to see the red, black and neutral wire, in the conduit.

Told you I don't know squat! I didn't even notice. Now I'll have to investigate tomorrow.
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post #21 of 278 Old 02-25-2009, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Today I moved my drain pipe closer to the wall. I did this to free up some space for my seats. Originally I was planning make building a 12" column around it. To keep up the symmetry I was going to make the other columns 12" as well. The problem is that I would only have 9ft left for seating between the columns. By moving the pipe, I gained at least a foot. I had a separate post covering this problem.

No leaks yet!

Before



After

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post #22 of 278 Old 02-25-2009, 08:29 PM
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I like the new plan! I think your wife 'let' you do the theater because she knows once it's done it will also serve as the kids new tv room

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post #23 of 278 Old 02-26-2009, 06:43 AM
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Good job on the plumbing. Did you find out about the ground for the panel, dragodrago is correct about that ground. From the pic as far as I could tell the black is definately not the ground. The ground would need to be wired to the area where the white wire is or on the opposite side. Good luck.
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post #24 of 278 Old 02-26-2009, 07:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Good job on the plumbing. Did you find out about the ground for the panel, dragodrago is correct about that ground. From the pic as far as I could tell the black is definately not the ground. The ground would need to be wired to the area where the white wire is or on the opposite side. Good luck.

Haven't had a chance yet. Hopefully today.
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post #25 of 278 Old 02-27-2009, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jailguy View Post

Just had an electrician out to install a 100amp sub-panel. My main breaker had no slots left. The new one will be just for the HT.


Jailguy;
+1 on the concern of no ground in yours , I ran 14 new circuits when I did my whole basement,tapping into existing panel and added a sub panel.

See my pict? Green is ground.
If you don't want to learn basic electrical 101, you need a competent electrician for your safety.

What size wire did he run for 100amp service?
Minimum size wire for a residential feeder is #4 Copper wire, or # 2 Aluminum wire, for hts and neutral. That wire does not look thick enough, hard to tell.

200A panel on LH is my Geothermal/hot H20 seperate panel, panel on RH 200A home, with a transfer sw for back-up generator.



btw, your theatre plans look nice, have fun building it.
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post #26 of 278 Old 02-27-2009, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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post #27 of 278 Old 03-04-2009, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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I was finally able to find some 2.5" hat channel about 45min away. Just got back with 16 of em. Hopefully tomorrow I can get going on my soffits.
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post #28 of 278 Old 03-05-2009, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I got the hat channel up and attached the side wall soffits. I needed one soffit to cover up some pipes and stuff, but wanted the room to be balanced so I built a matching one on the other side. After the second one was done I sat down to see how small they would make the room. I don't think it looks bad, but my wife thinks it looks too small now and wants me to get rid of the soffit on one side.

Looking at the screen.


Looking back at the rack, fridge, & desk.


Close up of the soffit and the V-clips I used to attach them.



I also had my first big...aww CRAP! My original plan was to have the second row riser span the width of the room. After I put the soffits up I realized that there would not be enough headroom on the side where the isle would go. CRAP!!! So now I don't know what to do. Maybe split the seats and have two together and one by itself, having the aisle down the middle. Anybody have any suggestions. The headroom under the soffits is about 6'7" and I wanted to do a 6-8" riser.
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post #29 of 278 Old 03-05-2009, 06:30 PM
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I'm not seeing why soffits are necessary. You could just save the effort and expense and put that into equipment and budget overruns.
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post #30 of 278 Old 03-05-2009, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mapitc0 View Post

I'm not seeing why soffits are necessary. You could just save the effort and expense and put that into equipment and budget overruns.

Thats how I see lots of things in theater building. BUT, I can see how some people want to go above and beyond if they have the money.
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