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post #811 of 868 Old 05-16-2014, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by granroth View Post

Hey Brad, can you share some details about your HVAC setup? Did you call in the pros or did you do that part yourself? What (if any) acoustical considerations did you take into account in the design?

First I'll say I was fortunate to not have an "existing system" considerations to deal with, and my sole focus is keeping sound out since this is a standalone building. (although the BKM's are the same)

I know nothing about HVAC (and dont want to learn at my age rolleyes.gif ) I screwed the pooch on the HVAC in the first build and suffered a painful rework process as a result.. so this time I called a guy I used to use for custom builds in the late 90's early 00's, He does all commercial now but for a few $$ and all the beer he could drink he did the install, and I did the grunt work.. He had a cool software program that all the info was plugged into to determine heat load.. no of windows/direction facing.. no/type of lighting.. no of workers in office etc.. (in this case seats in theater). It also calculated static pressure based on length/type/size of runs, no of bends etc... (something interesting I learned was a single 90 degree bend equated to something approximating ~ 30-40 ft of straight run when calculating the static pressure in duct ).

Ended up with a 3 ton unit on the building.. After all the runs were calculated he left me with ~ 15 feet of flex for each of the 2 front feeds and 2 rear returns in the theater with instructions that I could move them around in gentle sweeping turns and then put them through a 90 to enter the completed shell and this would give me just shy of 200 cfm for each feed. He left 4 12 x 12 registers for me to use saying that they would get me to under 250 FPM, based on 200 CFM. He also installed manual dampeners in the attic so I can adjust if needed.

Front HVAC penetrations are behind the tiered ceiling and rears are in the soffit, Each feed into a large boot/plenum I made from OSB and lined with linacoustic... But I'm not sure how these plenums effected his calculations for air flow, if any. I also swapped out the register grilles he left for 4x36 bar grilles for aesthetics, assuming an equivalent open area wouldn't impact the FPM. I can say I can not hear the system when its on... when I hooked up the old projector to see what the ceiling reflections were like, the RS20 was very loud by comparison.. so Im happy with the results of the HVAC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by design1stcode2nd View Post

I originally picked this image for the ceiling design which if I had the height I would have done. It does show a combination of wood and fabric that is minimalist but has a nice balance. I'd have chosen a different fabric but you get the general idea..


You could door floor to ceiling fabric with wood columns or the more traditional 2/3rds panels 1/3rd trim-work.

That is a very cool ceiling.. I see why it caught your attention..

I have now relented to the fact that some amount of wood trim will be required, Id like to carry the RGB lights I plan for the ceiling coves down the wall like DE did in the Caribbean build.


Hopefully accomplishing the effect Theo described regarding his room, with changing the mood of the room with the lighting.
So possibly running narrow type columns/trim where the splays step back in to hide the vertical led's may work well.

Funny enough I'm almost coming full circle to the original sketch I posted here.. I'll eliminate the sconces to keep the walls "Cleaner", but I still don't get that "wow" feeling in my gut when I try to visualize it.

I'll try another sketch with narrower sections for the wood panels, keeping a similar width ratio to the pic you posted above..but still keeping the insert widths a size that allows me to maximize the GOM usage.

Have a little time still while I build the riser........

Main part of the stage built last night..

photo DSC01130.jpg

Guess what my boys are doing this weekend biggrin.gif
Looks like ~ 80 bags.. give or take....

Brad

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post #812 of 868 Old 05-16-2014, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

Guess what my boys are doing this weekend biggrin.gif
Looks like ~ 80 bags.. give or take....

Brad

Gets some use out of em! Some good exercise too.

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post #813 of 868 Old 05-28-2014, 04:57 PM
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I am sitting in the lobby of the Hobby Center admiring the ceiling. Very clean lines. Any more thoughts to your design direction?




The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
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post #814 of 868 Old 05-29-2014, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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For some reason my email server started marking avs notifications as spam......
Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

I am sitting in the lobby of the Hobby Center admiring the ceiling. Very clean lines.

Cool building.. I goggled it and took a 360 tour of the theater
Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

Any more thoughts to your design direction?

OH MY YES!!!! So much has happened since my last post wink.gif

I decided to bite the bullet and contacted my financial adviser.... He didn't see any reason I couldn't purchase a "Private IMAX" for myself. Admittingly he was a little shocked by the $2,000,000 price tag, but felt that as long as I went with a different video system, that financially the project could be managed. Oh that and I wouldn't be able to afford the larger screen either, but if I was "OK" with a 12 foot versus a 40 foot screen then it was definitely a GO... except that the size of the room would have to be smaller (much), so the seating would be reduced a tad.. say from 18 to 7 seats to help keep the heating and cooling costs in line... and I wouldn't be able to afford the standard audio system or IMAX's online support.. but hey those are all small sacrifices to get "IMAX's Breathtaking 2D & 3D images, flawless sound and special theater design that creates a more immersive effect, and delivers the ultimate in-home entertainment experience." Lastly, as I was leaving his office his parting comments were something along the lines that the "IMAX team of specialists that typically play an integral role in the process, working directly with my architect, developer, interior designer, and custom installer to ensure everything is built to IMAX’s exacting performance standards while catering to my specific design preferences", would not be visiting my house anytime soon, so I should spend 50 bucks on new saw blades..... SO YEA...... I'm very excited now. Im going to get this graphic printed and framed for myself .................biggrin.gif

photo IMAXNOT.jpg

Kidding Aside...... This is the "direction" the path is taking me now..... not big on the brown color palette.... but I like the proportions of the wood/fabric and the clean lines.. I think I can achieve a scaled version with a similar feel, short angled wainscot/splayed walls etc .....

photo slide-04.jpg

photo slide-02.jpg

At least my "Mind's Eye" has a vision now, just need to close the gap with it and my wallet....... smile.gif

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post #815 of 868 Old 05-29-2014, 08:28 PM
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That will be a sick room! Can't wait to see it!
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post #816 of 868 Old 05-31-2014, 08:28 AM
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I never made it to Indiana to see version #1.
However; this one is bound to be just as dramatic, and I now have relatives living in and around Phoenix, biggrin.gif
Hmm....wonder when the target grand opening will be?

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Check out a video of my theater here
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post #817 of 868 Old 06-03-2014, 01:34 PM
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It's about time for an update ? biggrin.gif

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post #818 of 868 Old 06-04-2014, 11:21 AM
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Oh I wish I had seen this sooner. You are doing quite a job there. Here was my bit that I thought was important. What sources are you having for the Theater? HD/SAT, DVD,CD?, Game console, VHS,...you know. I thought from the beginning that you were making a mistake with the location of the equipment rack. It seems you have sorta moved it, but not ideal still. Since you closed off the back wall where the old entry was, that has changed your seating correct? What do you really ever touch in an equipment rack? The DVD player. Most of the time, that is it. I think you could find a place for a small console near the seating upper row or ?? to house your DVD and if you have a game console, or a panel for any input you want to plug in (a/v, USB,) Build the Receiver and the amps and the cable box and all that nice stuff nobody ever needs to see and that generates a lot of heat into a cabinet next to the left channel speaker accessible from the storage room. It can breathe and vent and you don't need to blow money on an expensive attractive rack and custom shelves, lights, whatever, and no fans or cooling vents and such needed. It also gives the primary user easy no stand up and cross the room access to change a disc, or tape or game....and also afford a nice place for the touch screen to call home. Think about it. I have done this in many rooms and not only did it make sense, it was easier by far.
Don't worry about the speakers being too close. I don't know what receiver you are using, but you can manually alter the timing during set up to make up for them being so far from the edge of the image.
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post #819 of 868 Old 06-06-2014, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry guys.. Was'nt ignoring the thread.. Just got off an airplane after a week of travel...

Thanks Soundguy... I was initially confused by your post , then I realized you were referring to my first theater layout... I ended up putting the rack in its own room behind a hidden door and the entrance stayed where it was.. A second row was the original motivation for moving the entrance, but there was never really room for a second row without forcing it smack up against the back wall, and forcing the first row up into a bad position.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

I never made it to Indiana to see version #1.
However; this one is bound to be just as dramatic, and I now have relatives living in and around Phoenix, biggrin.gif
Hmm....wonder when the target grand opening will be?

Hey Cused.. good to hear from ya... Yup I would have enjoyed you visiting Version 1.. I'm glad I had the opportunity to meet RT when I was in Indiana.. It seems several other theaters popped up within a couple hrs of driving after I relocated... If you visit your Phoenix relatives around Christmas, a movie could be in line... Now that is by no means a commitment to a deadline wink.gif but none the less your welcome to visit anytime.
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It's about time for an update ? biggrin.gif

Why Yes.. It most definitely is...... give it up... How is mamma and the little uns.. Gettin any sleep? tongue.gif

I did make some progress last week, and hope to wrap a few things up this weekend.. I'll post evidence in a couple days..
My youngest one ran out the door this morning on the way to the waterpark and took the digital camera before I could download any recent pics.. Water Park/Kid/Camera sound like the ingredients for a disaster.. so I still hope their are still pics to post when he gets home rolleyes.gif


Question for anyone/everyone... with bluetooth and wifi... what is the justification for any type of LV wiring to the riser.. several years ago people were running HDMI, Cat 5, audio jacks, etc.... So what and why to we need anything besides just some juice now to the riser ?

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post #820 of 868 Old 06-06-2014, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

Question for anyone/everyone... with bluetooth and wifi... what is the justification for any type of LV wiring to the riser.. several years ago people were running HDMI, Cat 5, audio jacks, etc.... So what and why to we need anything besides just some juice now to the riser ?

Never used any of mine... connect the laptop via Google Chromecast now. That said, I'd still run a "dead" CAT5/6 just in case.

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post #821 of 868 Old 06-06-2014, 10:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the sanity check Paul.. I just couldn't come up with an immediate need/justification for anything else. I have a couple hundred feet of cat 6 left so its no skin to get runs to the front of the riser JIC.. I spent about 2 min thinking of ways to hide the Oppo in the riser so you could just plop a disc in from inside the room rolleyes.gif then the KISS principle kicked in ....

I was in your area this week.. and I still intend to make it over one day to admire your room..its a much shorter flight now....

Brad

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post #822 of 868 Old 06-06-2014, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

Question for anyone/everyone... with bluetooth and wifi... what is the justification for any type of LV wiring to the riser.. several years ago people were running HDMI, Cat 5, audio jacks, etc.... So what and why to we need anything besides just some juice now to the riser ?

 

Some speaker wire might be nice in case you decide you are interested in Butt Kickers...

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post #823 of 868 Old 06-06-2014, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post

Some speaker wire might be nice in case you decide you are interested in Butt Kickers...

I've only experienced Butt Kickers one time and found it too aggressive and distracting.. to the point it pulled me out of the experience. Like sitting in a massage chair. Its entirely possible that they were not set up correctly, and that I should not arbitrarily discount them without experiencing others first....

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post #824 of 868 Old 06-06-2014, 12:03 PM
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They were almost certainly set up wrong. The trick is to set the crossover around 30Hz (or less) and be very judicious with the "volume" control. Since you can daisy chain up to four chairs on a single speaker wire lead, it's cheap insurance for future upgrades to run two speaker wires into the riser, one for each row.
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post #825 of 868 Old 06-06-2014, 12:09 PM
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I also read the least expensive version (forget which one's they were), are also the least powerful, and thus least disruptive.  I think it was on AVSForum, I briefly read a butt kicker 'shoot out' of some sort.   I have never felt them, and was debating ordering them when ordering my chairs.   

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post #826 of 868 Old 06-06-2014, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

Question for anyone/everyone... with bluetooth and wifi... what is the justification for any type of LV wiring to the riser.. several years ago people were running HDMI, Cat 5, audio jacks, etc.... So what and why to we need anything besides just some juice now to the riser ?

I had the same thought on mine and ended up just running some conduit to the face of the riser to be safe.

The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
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post #827 of 868 Old 06-07-2014, 11:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

They were almost certainly set up wrong. The trick is to set the crossover around 30Hz (or less) and be very judicious with the "volume" control. Since you can daisy chain up to four chairs on a single speaker wire lead, it's cheap insurance for future upgrades to run two speaker wires into the riser, one for each row.

I'm sure this is the case, He had felt the 4-18's in the IB a couple of days before, so he was probably trying to run his buttkickers "Hot" to compensate for an underwhelming sub...
Quote:
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I also read the least expensive version (forget which one's they were), are also the least powerful, and thus least disruptive. I think it was on AVSForum, I briefly read a butt kicker 'shoot out' of some sort. I have never felt them, and was debating ordering them when ordering my chairs.

Started searching for the "Buttkicker Shootout" and ended up spending an hour reading "D-box" info... Thankfully the SCL switch (scope creep limiter) kicked in before it was too late...wink.gif
Quote:
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I had the same thought on mine and ended up just running some conduit to the face of the riser to be safe.

I was retardedly late with my question, past the point of running conduit... I will be able to fish a couple of cat 6 and some speaker wire runs when I cut holes for the floor box and riser ports..


Pics from finishing the riser:

Really Proud of the boys.. they handled the sand with minimul wining and bickering.. finished it in a couple of hours..
Riser frame lined with 6 mil
photo DSC01135.jpg

Sealed the top and screwed on the first layer of 3/4
photo DSC01138.jpg

GG between layers.. 3/4" gap around perimeter"
photo DSC01143.jpg

I had ran a router donw the top aand bottom edges of the sheets before screwing on to create a little bullnose for the carpet wrap..
photo DSC01258.jpg

The stage has "little character" now (none)..I'll add as the room design pans out any additional stage details such as side wings/ radii step in front will contain only insulation.

Ill get a post together for the riser construcion next its nearing completion, just need to build steps, cut some holes and fish some wires...

Thanks again guys..

Brad

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post #828 of 868 Old 06-07-2014, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post


I'm sure this is the case, He had felt the 4-18's in the IB a couple of days before, so he was probably trying to run his buttkickers "Hot" to compensate for an underwhelming sub...
Started searching for the "Buttkicker Shootout" and ended up spending an hour reading "D-box" info... Thankfully the SCL switch (scope creep limiter) kicked in before it was too late...wink.gif

 

 

I don't know how to do an actual direct link, but here is the review I was talking of. 

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1438696/a-comparison-of-three-tactile-transducers-buttkicker-mini-lfe-vs-clark-synthesis-tst209-vs-aura-bass-shaker-pro

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post #829 of 868 Old 06-13-2014, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the link Kevin.. I did get some speaker wire and a couple of cat6 fished through the riser..
and got a chance to read that thread... I found it interesting that after several pages of comparisons, testing and tweaking that the final outcome was....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
For you guys still playing with transducers -- I think it is safe to say if you have the room to put a sub behind your chair --- then just drop the transducers idea.

Buy a 10" or 12" high excursion subwoofer - place it right behind your chair firing directly into the back of your chair. (like an inch away - not several feet back)...

It beats any transducer I've tried including the very well revered Crowson. Tansducers all have weaknesses - whether it be that they actually make muffled/distorted noise (clark), bottom out on low frequencies(buttkicker, or quake), or aren't as powerful as you might like (crowson, aura), they also are more difficult to set timing/distance settings to align real audio bass with the transducer's tactile bass in my experience. I liked the transducers - hence this thread - but compared to the real thing in a nearfield position - I think most transducers come up lacking. snip...
I guess nothing trumps enough subs....

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post #830 of 868 Old 06-13-2014, 12:39 PM
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A lot of guys have been using the infinity 1260 subs. They are about $59 shipped, and they have great sound quality. You can get great extension (below 20hz) with them too, and they work well in small sealed boxes that are easy to place. Ported in a big box they are impressive also but that lends not so well to hiding behind a seat. That could be an alternative to buttkicker type - and the cost is well competitive. Harman has a few patents they use on that driver that makes it an exceptionally good value at that price.

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post #831 of 868 Old 06-18-2014, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Riser for the IMIN

WooHoo.. 2nd update in less than a month..

Riser construction:


Spent the better part of a day cutting up more arcs to use to radius the front of the riser, but decided to go with a straight row of seats.


Thought about using the arcs for just the steps but the segment was too short and I didnt think it looked right.. basically scrapped curved pieces altogether


Kids are on summer break and the youngest one was around wining that he was bored.. so here he is stapling strapping to the bottom of the riser joists to hold the insulation up.


Insulation and First layer of 3/4 T&G screwed and glued down with liquid nails..


Cut a hole for the floor box to get power to the rear row.


2nd layer of 3/4 T&G down with GG


Used the track saw to cut out the riser ports


Built the steps..
36" wide , 7 3/8 rise, 11 1/2 step(when completed)
Steps will be entirely wrapped in hardwood along with the front edge of the riser..
Fished a couple Cat 6 and some speaker wire to the front..
96" clearance between steps .. the additional row of 3 fortress seats (now on order) is 87" wide..



Put an outlet on the side of the steps for easy access to plug in chargers etc..
one step light for each step..


Simple step lights from Elco to fit the standard outlet box..


I've been playing blue tape to develop the design concepts ...current thoughts are bottom wainscot along with the narrow uprights will be stained wood, between the uprights will be fabric.
Each section represents a splay.. (refer to IMAX images above for additional visuals)
The sections will splay out ~ 6" and then step back in for the next section....
I took this pic a couple days ago and have since adjusted the wainscot for a steeper angle



from a slightly different angle



Started playing with the leds for the ceiling coves.. (they will be inside the splays also) to get the controllers/ repeaters etc lined out.. the gray was a perfect color choice for the ceiling I think.. it does exactly what I had hoped as far as taking on the color of the RGB while appearing very dark when the lights are out with minimal ceiling reflections



Riser done..


As I move forward I'm convincing myself Ill be able to pull off a small scaled version of the private Imax rendering I posted above that hopefully has a similar look and feel.

So from hence forth I shall refer to my theater as the "IMIN"

Thats where Im at.... Baffle wall next..

Brad

I hope these pics all show up...
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post #832 of 868 Old 06-18-2014, 12:42 PM
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Fantastic work, as always. I think you made just about every AVS Forum member really, really jealous of your ceiling height and the kind of riser you can build when you have all that extra height. No "down in front" call-outs in this theater, that's for sure.

Are you thinking of installing the recessed uplights into the short side wall, just like in the IMAX renders? I think that would look really cool.

A couple of other questions - where did you get your in-riser diffusers? And what insulation thickness did you use inside that huge riser cavity, a standard R30 or R19?

And I've always preferred to use the term "MYMAX"....but I really like "IMIN"
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post #833 of 868 Old 06-18-2014, 03:56 PM
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That looks great !!!!!

I love the ceiling too.

That is a pretty high riser huh? how high is it ?

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #834 of 868 Old 06-19-2014, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
That looks great !!!!!

I love the ceiling too.

That is a pretty high riser huh? how high is it ?
Thank you Sir... it is 22 high"

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
Fantastic work, as always. I think you made just about every AVS Forum member really, really jealous of your ceiling height and the kind of riser you can build when you have all that extra height. No "down in front" call-outs in this theater, that's for sure.

Are you thinking of installing the recessed uplights into the short side wall, just like in the IMAX renders? I think that would look really cool.

A couple of other questions - where did you get your in-riser diffusers? And what insulation thickness did you use inside that huge riser cavity, a standard R30 or R19?

And I've always preferred to use the term "MYMAX"....but I really like "IMIN"
I think the riser height works well with the tiered ceiling adding dimension to the room.

The bar grilles came from Hvacquick ~ 65$
http://www.hvacquick.com/
Last theater I purchased from advanced architectural grilles
http://aagrilles.com/
the ones from AAGrilles were a much higher quality at about 2x the price...with the option of various deflection angles. ~ $110 ea at the time

I really like the looks of the uplights also, the issue comes in with the depth required to implement them
The top portion of the staggered walls will project into the room from ~ 1.5-5".
The smallest can light I found still had a 3" diameter ring, so even with minimal clearance I would need say 4" for a ledge on the wainscot pushing the total depth of the wall to around 9"... alot to give up to get the lights on the face of the splays.

I did consider the LV "Deck Dot" lights which would allow me to reduce the size of the "ledge" on the wainscot to only a couple of inches, But Im not sure the amount of light output would get the effect Im looking for

I have also thought about extending the end of the splay on the wainscot ~ 6" beyond where the splay on the upper cloth section would end which would allow a small can to shine up the edge of the splay.. but with leds going up the end of the splay I'm not sure its worth it... open for ideas/suggestions..

Brad

My Basement HT Construction ~ Faster than the speed of Dark

"I've cut that piece 3 times and its still too short..."
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post #835 of 868 Old 06-20-2014, 11:22 AM
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Awesome work as always! I love the riser height.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post
I really like the looks of the uplights also, the issue comes in with the depth required to implement them
The top portion of the staggered walls will project into the room from ~ 1.5-5".
The smallest can light I found still had a 3" diameter ring, so even with minimal clearance I would need say 4" for a ledge on the wainscot pushing the total depth of the wall to around 9"... alot to give up to get the lights on the face of the splays.
Just thinking outside of the box......what if you kept the ledge shallower and used some colored or patterned plexiglass as the top vs wood and light rings. You can paint the back side of the plex black where you don't want light to go through. The light source could be a fluorescent that could be pretty skinny or something else so you could dim.


The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610

Last edited by avtexan; 06-20-2014 at 11:29 AM.
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post #836 of 868 Old 06-21-2014, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Tex... I like "spitballin" ideas... anytime you can get a group of creative guys together who aren't afraid to run things up a flag pole your almost guaranteed to get exceptional results..

I used my "best" MSpaint skills to throw a couple things together to better explain what Im looking at..
any numbers are just estimates, nothing set in stone yet.

Heres a rough type and side view...
One section shows what I was saying about extending the bottom wainscot past the end of the splay to fit a small can..


Similar to what is shown here in the rendering..


Heres a cross section of the current thoughts on the wall....

If i understand what your describing.. it would represent the a small strip in the top of the ledge where the yellow is shown.. correct?


A couple other unrelated random thoughts...

As I chase the look of the Imax rendering I realized yesterday that both the x and y of the fabric sections I had planned exceeded the width of any of the GOM's Ive seen.. urgh..

I was thinking oak for the wood in the room... but now I think the cleaner style of the room calls for a finer grain.. like a Brazilian cherry.. etc.. i don't mind spending the extra for the sheet goods, but I don't what to back myself into a corner for material availability, and I dont want to head down a path where trim pieces, stair treads etc would have to be created by hand .. routered etc.. or stuck with outrageous costs and lead times compared to Oak/maple which can be had easily....

Does anyone see the same issue with wood types and room styles??? Im not sure that explanation or concern makes sense to anyone... or if Im just overanalizin..

I need more pondering.. to work through a lot of details... I felt I was making good progress over the last couple of months, basically nailing 2x's and sheeting together for ceiling/stage/riser etc.. and the baffle wall will be done soon... however until I can bottom out on the finer details the progress may be coming to a grinding halt soon

I'm just going to bang my head against the wall today until it's noon here.. then pop a beer...

My Basement HT Construction ~ Faster than the speed of Dark

"I've cut that piece 3 times and its still too short..."
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post #837 of 868 Old 06-23-2014, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post
I was thinking oak for the wood in the room... but now I think the cleaner style of the room calls for a finer grain.. like a Brazilian cherry.. etc.. i don't mind spending the extra for the sheet goods, but I don't what to back myself into a corner for material availability, and I dont want to head down a path where trim pieces, stair treads etc would have to be created by hand .. routered etc.. or stuck with outrageous costs and lead times compared to Oak/maple which can be had easily....

Does anyone see the same issue with wood types and room styles??? Im not sure that explanation or concern makes sense to anyone... or if Im just overanalizin..
Brad,

I understand what you mean about wood types. I agree that cherry or maple would have a more modern (contemporary?) feel. I used oak in my room because of the local availability. However, I ended up needing to order a bar rail, chair rail and base board from a mill in Ohio. I was very happy with them and shipping prices weren't horrible (although I'm in PA, not AZ). Their on-line ordering is easy and customer phone service was great. They carry quite a few wood species and have lots of trim options.

Check out this link: Baird Brothers Fine Hardwoods.

Keep up the good work, I love the updates.
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post #838 of 868 Old 06-25-2014, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post
I did consider the LV "Deck Dot" lights which would allow me to reduce the size of the "ledge" on the wainscot to only a couple of inches, But Im not sure the amount of light output would get the effect Im looking for

I have also thought about extending the end of the splay on the wainscot ~ 6" beyond where the splay on the upper cloth section would end which would allow a small can to shine up the edge of the splay.. but with leds going up the end of the splay I'm not sure its worth it... open for ideas/suggestions..

Brad
Hey Brad,

I'm also looking at the uplighting option on my project as well to highlight some columns. I just ordered these from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Paradise-GL281...led+deck+light

I've been looking all over to find different options for these and they seem to be hard to find.

Joe
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post #839 of 868 Old 06-27-2014, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey EJ.. Good to hear from ya again.. glad you posted, it gave me a chance to look at your bar again When I get this room finished I have a bar area that Ill be doing next and yours is good inspiration..

Baird brothers is great source, I've purchased a bar rail and the 1 1/2" read oak 1/2 round from them in the last theater.. I see that they do have alot of options available in cherry, so definetly worth further research..I just need to bottom out on my plan...

cRock... Do you have a build thread where we can see your progress? .. thanks for the link.. those look alot like the deck dots lights I was considering...I couldnt find the beam angle on either though..

At this point I think I may scrap the uplighting on the sides of the splay. I've played with it more, and between the depth of the splay and the additional ledge width that would be required for a light it would take up too much room. I may however keep the uplight idea on the end of the splay's so Id be interested in hearing your impression of these lights when you get them hooked up.. thanks again and start a build thread if you havent yet.. we all like watching others suffer through this process..

A Fwiw update.. finished framing my baffle wall, need to put the absorbtion behind it then then cover it.. I had planned on 3- 1/2 layers DW/DW/MDF with GG but neither homedepot or lowes carries standard DW in my area its all "lite", so rather than driving to a distrubutor I just picked up 5/8 X.. pics soon...

Brad

My Basement HT Construction ~ Faster than the speed of Dark

"I've cut that piece 3 times and its still too short..."
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post #840 of 868 Old 06-28-2014, 01:00 PM
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I ordered some samples from Baird and their stuff looks nice, thanks for the tip! I was thinking of just going with painted trim but now that I know they sell stained trim I'm debating going that route instead.
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