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post #1 of 69 Old 05-20-2009, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Well ladies and Gents, I have finally gave in and started to build my HT.

I like to thank all of you HTholics for getting me to this stage.

The room is 21 X 19 X 8.
So far, I have contacted John at soundproofingcompany for the materials I need to sound proof the room. I would like to get the sound isolated as much as possible in my budget. I am doing staggered studs, GG, and clips. John advised me to get 3 boxes of green glue, whisperclips RC. for decoupling the ceiling and SilenSeal Acoustical Caulk. R-30 in ceiling and R-11 pink insulation in walls.

Here are some pics of the basement where the HT will be.





Please, feel free to suggest any ideas that may help me with this project.
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post #2 of 69 Old 05-20-2009, 08:28 PM
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Do you have a measured floor plan so we can see what you have in mind?
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post #3 of 69 Old 05-20-2009, 08:43 PM
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You have a great space there, looking forward to more info and your progress.

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post #4 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 04:32 AM
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Looks like a nice space. Post a napkin sketch of what you're looking at doing when you get a chance.

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post #5 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 04:46 AM
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This is going to be a good one...Nice space!!
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post #6 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 05:09 AM
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You could go to R19 in the ceiling

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post #7 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 05:26 AM
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Awfully short walls, I see the top plates literally sitting on top of the base plates.
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post #8 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 05:50 AM
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^

I had to scroll up and take a second look.

Clearly, I'm a man of action - just give me a few minutes to think about it.
Lewis Family Cinema 1.0

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post #9 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 06:25 AM
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Two builds with the same name? How will we ever keep track?

Taz's Home Theater
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post #10 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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BIGmouthinDC,

I will have the napkin sketch soon. However, the build is half way done. I just havn't had time to post pics. I leave home around 5:30am and get home 7:00pm.

WarrenP. Thank you.

Bryan, thank you for hookin me up with the cotton battings for the soffits. I might use the remaining amount for the base traps.

Ted, I have already signed the contract with R-30. I hope that is ok.

bluesfan, I wasn't aware that there was another with same Title thread. I wonder If I can modify the title.

I should have have mentioned that I used Ruben's theater as the base model.

BTW, the name of the contractor I am using is Stonehengebuilding.org. His name is Tom Salter.

Here are some more pics.










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post #11 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 07:51 AM
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Wish you would have invited us earlier to the party. We would have told you to use RSIC clips to isolate the top plate of the walls, You would have gained additional isolation. OR, are you planning clips and channel on the walls? Also the walls should have been drywalled before the stage was built. And the stage should not be nailed to the studs as shown on your picture. Not a very good advertisement for Tom Salter



As a reference here is Ruben's docmentation of building a stage inside a drywalled room with the stage not touching the walls:

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post #12 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 08:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Wish you would have invited us earlier to the party. We would have told you to use RSIC clips to isolate the top plate of the walls, You would have gained additional isolation. OR, are you planning clips and channel on the walls?

I appologize for not posting earlier as my schadule did not allow me to get on the PC. I got most of the info. from AVS when my schadule was light.
Also,these guys at Stondehengebuilding move very fast.

John at SPC suggested the Whisperclips RC. for the ceiling. He said that it will be the most cost effective and you really won't gain that much more in sound isolation and spend the rest of $$$ on GG. I just have staggerd studs and GG on walls. For ceiling I used whisper clip RC. GG. one wall is all concrete and the back wall is about half concete.
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post #13 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 08:18 AM - Thread Starter
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I believe at one time bpape said that it did not matter if the stage was against the wall because sand was used. Here is the direct quote. that was used in Sandmanx theater build. I was just going on Bryan's word.

"As far as not attaching the front Stage to the walls, that was my first intention to avoid transfer of vibration to the walls. I even used Foam on a roll all around the sides of the stage that meets the walls and left a half inch gap all around the stage. But after talking to BPape which is consulting me on this project, he said it would be fine to tie the stage into the wall. I still think I rather not tie the stage into the wall and will talk to him further on that. I personally rather keep the stage floating."
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post #14 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 08:52 AM
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My point was that IF you isolated the top of the walls from the rest of the structure, there was nothing to be gained or lost by attaching or not to the walls. Also, the sheer mass of the stage if filled with sand would only help to increase the rigidity of the wall structure.

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post #15 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you Bryan for clearing that up. I guess, I got this all wrong.
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post #16 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 09:02 AM
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Not sure I agree, Bryan. Hope that's OK.

If there is vibration in the stage, you'll keep it out of the walls by decoupling. That's always a good idea, since nothing is ever truly decoupled 100%, and adding vibration into side walls from stage simply makes the system have to work harder to damp those vibrations. If the stage was infinitely stiff or infinitely damped then it wouldn't matter.

Also there's no advantage to having stiffer walls. If using GG, it's counter-productive, since the ability to flex is what allows the shear force on the GG.

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post #17 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz1 View Post

Also,these guys at Stondehengebuilding move very fast.

That is why all of us Monday morning quarterbacks will have plenty of material to criticize. Normally the builds here extend over months (or years) and the DIY builder agonizes over every detail like what length screw to use for the second layer of drywall. Of course there are always several opinions and we have the opportunity to reach somewhat of a consensus before the poster even makes it to the store.

It is a well known fact that I've had many GCs swear if they knew where I lived they would pay me a visit on a dark night because I spot things in pictures that aren't up to the "Gold" benchmark of perfection.

Keep the pictures coming and we will provide what ever we can to help you reach your destination.
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post #18 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 09:38 AM
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Understand Ted. My thought was that if the wall was decoupled from the ceiling, then there's really not a big issue. Also, tying the stage to the wall would change it's resonant behavior to be different from the others.

That stage with sand will be about as close to infinitely rigid as we're ever going to get...

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post #19 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpape View Post

My thought was that if the wall was decoupled from the ceiling, then there's really not a big issue.

I understand. I would not personally recommend the attachment for the reasons I mentioned. I don't see it as a really big deal, but I see advantages to decoupling the stage and no advantages to coupling it.

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post #20 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you guys for great info.

BigDC, I know you are big on picking out things that are not visible to the nacked eye. so, be easy. Maybe, I should take out of focus shots

Yesterday, they did the electrical and I did the low voltage wiring for 7.2.
Today, they will install insulation.
Tomorrow, is drywall.
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post #21 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz1 View Post

Yesterday, they did the electrical and I did the low voltage wiring for 7.2.
Today, they will install insulation.
Tomorrow, is drywall.

Now that is what I call some seriously speedy work!

Very nice space you have Taz, can't wait to see how it turns out when it's finished...probably by the weekend if you keep that pace!
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post #22 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 12:07 PM
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Conduit for the projector? And don't underestimate the cooling needs for a room full of people and your equipment running. If you have a chance I would spec Acoustical duct for hooking up the theater so that the sound doesn't travel through that metal ductwork to the upstairs.
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post #23 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 05:26 PM - Thread Starter
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This morning when I left the house for work, I told my wife if you hear lots of noise like hammering or drilling call me. Well, I got a call around noon time that there was lot of noise. I told her to go down and see what they are doing. She told me that they are ready to hang drywall. I told get the camera and take some pics before the drywall goes up. Here are the pics. I was shocked to see that the pics came out so nice.The soffit is not touching the ceiling. There is no front soffit yet. I would like to make curved one.

BigDC, I think I forgot about the projector vent. They did put the insulated duct.





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post #24 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Drywall

Napkin sketch



Door Jam







I have few questions.

What type of door should I use? Will exterior door work? I will have that seal around the exterior door.

Will I be ok if I tied in the front curved soffit to the side soffits? The height of soffits are 8 1/2". Also, I plan on putting the crown molding and have the LED or rope light inside.
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post #25 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 06:51 PM
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Wow that is fast work Tas... Looking great. Can't wait to stop by to watch some movies

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post #26 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 08:15 PM
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I meant an electrical conduit for the projector cabling.
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post #27 of 69 Old 05-21-2009, 10:39 PM
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Wow you work fast and the photos look great so far. Realizing how much more homework I have to do.
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post #28 of 69 Old 05-22-2009, 04:51 AM
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Where is the equipment rack going to go in your design? What's up with that window? Did you think about just sealing it? You covered half of it with the soffit, Might as well put in some insulation and cover with drywall.
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post #29 of 69 Old 05-22-2009, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz1 View Post

What type of door should I use? Will exterior door work? I will have that seal around the exterior door.

Will I be OK if I tied in the front curved soffit to the side soffits? The height of soffits are 8 1/2". Also, I plan on putting the crown molding and have the LED or rope light inside.

Door: heavy, solid core, Air tight. Exterior door works. A heavy interior with an exterior jamb and a floor sweep also works.

Soffits If I understand the question of tying in, yes. I assume you mean butt up next to.
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post #30 of 69 Old 05-22-2009, 06:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Door: heavy, solid core, Air tight. Exterior door works. A heavy interior with an exterior jamb and a floor sweep also works.

Soffits If I understand the question of tying in, yes. I assume you mean butt up next to.


Thanks BIGDC. That is exactly what I meant about the soffits.

As far as Equip. rack, it will be place in the back of the room more towards in the middle of rear wall. He is making a cabinet for the rack.

This is the one I got. PORS from Rackman.

http://www.rackman.com/racks-pors.html

I will block off the windows.
Oh, and I did run the electrical conduit.

I am thinking of going with AT screen either 126" or 130" 2.37 or 2.40.
I havn't decided on the screen manufactor yet.

BTW,I purchased the Panasonic 3000U PJ.
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