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post #61 of 96 Old 03-16-2010, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Hum...I have no idea what box you are referring to. Was there a box in the video? Thanks for the kind comments.
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post #62 of 96 Old 04-07-2010, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
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The Half Wall/Bar between the kitchen area and the "main room"



The wall for the 52" Gaming LCD. Wired for 5.1 surround.



Twin Saws of death



Some pics of the Window that you all helped my finish - see other thread. Thanks a ton Big!!!



Pic of the tiny window in the Bedroom


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post #63 of 96 Old 04-07-2010, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are several pics of the riser.....

Riser and AV closet


Riser Left


Riser Right


Riser Entrance View


Pic of the "track" for the flexduct to ron under the riser. Vents will be on the floor of the riser on the L and R side.

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post #64 of 96 Old 04-07-2010, 06:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is a pic of the stage. Not the best picture. The soffit up front still has to be drywalled. Putting in three 4" hats with eyeballs to wash the screen wall. After the HATS go in, I will finish the drywall.



The drywall guys left a pretty big space on the bottom of the drywall when uptting up the 2nd layer. I had to use a LOT of acoustic caulk to fill that space!



Picture of the theater entrance!

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post #65 of 96 Old 04-07-2010, 10:35 AM
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Looking good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelfling View Post

Here are several pics of the riser.....

Pic of the "track" for the flexduct to ron under the riser. Vents will be on the floor of the riser on the L and R side.

Are you planning to add any support (cross braces) to beef up the areas where you cut out for duct work?

Mike
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post #66 of 96 Old 04-07-2010, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos View Post

Looking good!


Are you planning to add any support (cross braces) to beef up the areas where you cut out for duct work?

Actually, I am not. That's why I made the cut outs staggered. If the cut outs had been all in a line (i.e. parallel to the front edge), then there would have been a weak spot structurally. With 2 players of 3/4 plywood on top...I don't think reinforcements are needed. Granted, I'm not a structural engineer.
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post #67 of 96 Old 04-07-2010, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelfling View Post

Actually, I am not. That's why I made the cut outs staggered. If the cut outs had been all in a line (i.e. parallel to the front edge), then there would have been a weak spot structurally. With 2 players of 3/4 plywood on top...I don't think reinforcements are needed. Granted, I'm not a structural engineer.

That makes sense. The cutouts are not that large anyway and the rest of the joist is supported by the floor entirely so you shouldn't have any issues I would think. But like you I am not a structural engineer.

Mike
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post #68 of 96 Old 04-25-2010, 05:49 AM - Thread Starter
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This was mny inspiration, but the price tag of these pre-made is $400 EACH, which is way more than my budget woud allow.


Here is my staple station. I can't believe my wife is letting me do this on the carpet in out libing room!!



Here is the most underated tool in my build project. This thing has saved my hands many times over. It makes cutting effortless!


This next shot is of my "tight corners". I'm not sure how tight they really are. I am going to use some glud when I am all done to flatten them even more.


Here you can see some of the pieces stacked up and waiting assembly.


Here is one finished column, complete with cut out for an eletrical box (bottom) and a sconce cut out (top). As you can see, I think, there is a base column, with three large panels layered on the base. Then there are 2 more layers making the top and bottom crown pieces. I know the lighting in this shot is horrible. I will try and get another shot with better light.
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post #69 of 96 Old 04-25-2010, 05:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are some shots of the riser going together.

Up can see how the HVAC lines come out from the wall and traverl under the riser. I then layed insulation in the spaces of the riser.

Just for reference the flex is 6" and the vents are 4"x10".










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post #70 of 96 Old 04-26-2010, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Some more pics after working most of the weekend in the basement. Riser is now done and ready for carpet.










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post #71 of 96 Old 04-26-2010, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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post #72 of 96 Old 04-26-2010, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelfling View Post

Hum...I have no idea what box you are referring to. Was there a box in the video? Thanks for the kind comments.

He was referring to the box that your recessed outlet came in.
You're making very steady progress, nice work! I'm intrigued by your hvac runs under the riser. Once complete, be sure and give us your impressions!
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post #73 of 96 Old 05-11-2010, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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All 8 colums are nearly done being wrapped. I have 62 out of the 64 pieces wrapped. I am nearly done my screen wall. I ordered t-slot aluminum for the screen frame. It wasn't cheap, but if I evern change screens, I can reuse it. The frame is a 10 ft wife (130 inch diag). The frame has 2 support struts. The frame and all hanging hardware was $170 with shipping. Its 1x1" T-slotted aluminum.

I also ordered 2 cases of 2" OC703 for my front wall. Will try to post update pics as I normally do.
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post #74 of 96 Old 05-11-2010, 10:53 AM
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Gelfling...can you elaborate on your t-slot aluminum frame in terms of how you got it? I'm evaluating my frame construction right now, so would be interested in possibly sourcing something similar.
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post #75 of 96 Old 05-11-2010, 11:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Certainly. Let me start by saying that I felt the need to go with aluminum because so far, every damn piece of wood thatI have used in my project has warpped. A warpped screen is not an option though.

I thought about using the process noted here:

http://www.seymourav.com/articles/DI...FrameGallo.pdf

It uses wood with grove that holds a screen door track. It fulfills the criteria of being re-usable, but the wood can still warp.

That left me with T-slotted aluminum.

There are not many companies that sell T-slotted aluminum. I got mine from Fastenal. They have a store locator here:

http://www.fastenal.com/web/location...on=selectStore

The prices were pretty good, but I got a good deal on shipping since I was having the items shipped to an actual store/distributor. The turn around time is supposed to be about a week. I was able to get segments in any size. This is important as the main pieces are 10 ft and some places cap you at 8 foot. You definately want your long piece to be a single piece! I have no idea if I need 2 support struts, but since I am making an AT screen, I could not really use one support strut, since that would go right in front of the center speaker.

T-slot aluminam comes on metric and english versions. I would either go with 1x1" or a 30x30mm stock.

If I did not have a local Fastenal nearby, I would use the link below to have it ordered and shipped. They were competitive.

http://www13.boschrexroth-us.com/fra...p/Default.aspx

The basic idea here is to order the frame 2" larger than you want the viewable screen size to be (2" bigger vertically AND horizontally). This way, your masking can cover one inch of the screen all the way around and make a nice seemless transition.

You attach the fabric by wrapping the fabric around the frame and using a dowel rod as a type of spline to hold the screen in place.

I'll post more info and pics when I actually do the screen. I can try and answer any specific questions if you have any.
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post #76 of 96 Old 05-11-2010, 12:16 PM
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Thanks, that makes sense, although I'm trying to visualize the actual mounting of this to the false wall and then the "masking" on the front...won't that buildup be at least 2" or more? What do you plan for the "masking portion" (which I'm assuming you mean to be the more traditional face frame) on the front of the t-framing....something like 3/4" x 3.5" wood covered with velvet, or something else?

Seems to me as if this approach requires you to build two separate frames, one from the t-slot aluminum and then one face frame from wood if I'm following correctly.
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post #77 of 96 Old 05-11-2010, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
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A picture would sure help here, but I don't have sketchup on this computer.

The metal frame will be mounted in/on the false wall so that its flush with the front. Basically, I built the false wall out of 2x3 wood. Within this wall is wood frame which is just a tiny bit bigger than the outter demensions of the metal frame. This will allow the metal frame to basically just rest in the false wall (I'll still be securing it of course). Then, the entire false wall will have panels, made from either foam or or wood frames, that will be covered in black fabric. The part where these panels intersect wih the screen edge will be beveled.

So, you are correct, the panels will result in a build up of another inch onto my false wall. I am going to start with plain black fabric. If that does not work, and I want a blacker velvet, I can always make tiny panels to go around just the frame, covered in black velvet, and then make the other panels covered in GOM.

I ordered a whole bunch of speaker grommet things from parts express to attach my panels to the false wall. I want them to be fully removable to I can mask different aspect ratios easily.
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post #78 of 96 Old 05-12-2010, 07:23 AM
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After thinking about this more last night, I came to a similar conclusion on construction/mounting....thanks for confirming. Sounds like a good approach.

I like the idea of such a lightweight & strong frame that can be easily removed, although the only wild card still in my mind is the fastening of the screen material into the t-channel slot. I saw in another thread someone used some type of "rubber hose" while you're considering wooden dowel or similar.

It would be great to get further detail on how you implement that portion.
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post #79 of 96 Old 05-14-2010, 07:00 AM
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Hey Adam, was looking into this t-slot aluminum a bit more and read a couple of nice tips in the Seymour screen thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...842769&page=15) where one guy found some "t-slot covers" that appear to be the perfect solution for holding the screen material into the slot.

You can view these here on page 205/206 of the catalog (beware 16Mb downlooad) http://www.frame-world.com/catalog.htm

I'm still doing my normal "2 week evaluation" of something before I make a decision, on whether to go with the t-slot or just wood
I have some leftover 3/4 maple boards from when we built out in my barn that I want to check on to see about just doing a wood frame that would cost me next to nothing to do.
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post #80 of 96 Old 05-15-2010, 05:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I can't find it now, but its bookmarked on one of my computers. The guy used a dowel rod and it worked perfectly. The dowel wedged in perfectly. Now, he used 30mm aT-slot while I am using 12", so the dowel would be a different size I assume. I also saw the slot thingy you saw and will use that as a backup. My frame comes in this Friday so I will keep you posted.
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post #81 of 96 Old 05-15-2010, 05:05 PM - Thread Starter
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I know the frame is overbuilt, but the walls/soffit were rather warpped and getting that center opening for the screen to be perfectly level/straight/plum took all my carpentry skills and a whole lot of cursing.

My 9 year old helped me paint the wood today. Was actually kind of fun.










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post #82 of 96 Old 05-15-2010, 05:07 PM - Thread Starter
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post #83 of 96 Old 05-15-2010, 05:13 PM - Thread Starter
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My 64 individually wrapped panels. All done. Ready to go on columns. 5500 staples.






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post #84 of 96 Old 06-12-2010, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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MANY UPDATES.

The painters are now done with the basement, and as the carpet flooring is in. As such, I have kicked it up a notch and start working again.

Here are some pics to start. I'll post more info tomorrow.










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post #85 of 96 Old 06-12-2010, 05:46 PM - Thread Starter
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post #86 of 96 Old 06-12-2010, 07:29 PM
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Here is another AL tubing mfg, 8020. They mfg T-slot & smooth tubing (Quick Frame) in metric & std sizes. Below is their web link. They also have an eBay store where they sell overstock & scrap: www.8020.net

AVS member 20fan has a thread of his Quick Frame 8020 AL build, where he used ind Velcro to attach the WA DW
laminate onto the frame for a very lightweight & strong frame. 8020 will aslo cut the peices to your desired lengths, that helps to avoid high trock freight costs for section over 8 ft.

John
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post #87 of 96 Old 09-24-2010, 07:55 AM
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you done yet?

i want more pics
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post #88 of 96 Old 09-24-2010, 07:52 PM
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I am a regular lurker and am wondering the same.....
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post #89 of 96 Old 09-26-2010, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
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great looking theater. curious how you attached these front panels on the front stage walls. i assume they are removable when needed. did you use magnets?

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post #90 of 96 Old 02-07-2011, 04:46 PM
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Adam, how's your build coming along ? I guess you are finished by now...
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