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post #1 of 26 Old 09-10-2009, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally, my journey full of adventure and discoveries will begin...
Well, if it is a hometheater construction, I shall start in a filmmaking style
;-)
I have just bought a new apartment and I will be able to set up a dedicated hometheater.
After some good reading here in AVS, I decided to start planning and executing the theater.
Of course, counting with the member's support.
Firstly I would start with things that cannot change at all in the project.

Size and format of the room:
Room shall be 21x15 x10.
Only dimension I have some room to stretch is the height. It can be lower or higher depending of the benefits.
I cannot enlarge the length and width since I haven't authorization from the authorities (here in Brazil is the Mayor office/department which grant these rights)

Structure (Material Construction):
I am from Brazil (Sunny Rio de janeiro) and our engineering/architecture is bit different from US.
Our walls are usually made by a hollowed brick and cement.
We do not use framing and wood and in US.
Sometimes we use drywall as well but it is not very common for walls.
So the room will be constructed with Brick and cement.
Only place we will use dry wall is for making a ceiling/lining under the real brick/cement roof.

Equipment
Front: Revel F32
Central: Revel C52
Side Surround: Revel S12 (Dipole)
Rear Surround: Revel S12 (Dipole) or other. (Still missing)
Subwoofer: Still open. I have a sunfire Signature but I will probably buy one large or two mediums.
AMP: Parasound Halo A51 for Fronts, central and rear surround.
AMP: Anthem MCA20 for the Rears
Pre/Pro Adcom 870
BD: Oppo 83
Projector Epson 1080

Screen
Open. Most probably i will make a custom one.
In the picture, i add a 140" 16:9

Purpose
It will be dedicated Hometheater only fro Movies and occasionally music. No TVs, no PS3 and etc.
I will have in other room a media closet centralizing everything.( whole house audio, TV, Security and etc)
I will send of course some conduits from the Media closet to the dedicated theater just for future needs.
All the rest I am still thinking about and I would need your support, suggestions and so on.

One thing is very important.
Most of the outcome and findings of what we will discuss, and my needs will may be an small obstacle since the lack or even different materials and resources available where I live.
e.g. if I need fabrics for the wall, I cannot go to lowes or Home Depot and buy GOM.
I cannot simply order Linacoustic that easy.
I will have to figure out what can I do in order to replace the materials if needed.

Thoughts ( please check the sketches attached).

Please disregard the color patterns and yes, the sketch is in scale. Equipment, furniture, stair, risers and everything else.
This is the first version and I know it will be changed.


False wall on and no "kid's lounge"







False wall off and with "kid's lounge"







Side view







Back view







Inside False Wall







Part of the room (Additional walls will be raised)







Additional 38 inches in width!!!







Well, the view from Pedra da Gavea( Natural Postcard from Rio) came for free!!!







Opposite view!!!






Seating
I am thinking of having 2 rows with 4 seats each. Most probably Palliser Hiland.
Since I have no height severe limitations, I am planning a kind of 3 level-2 risers
First one for the 1st row /2nd Row split.
And the Second Riser, it is a crazy idea I had.
Since my kids are very small and their cousins as well, I was thinking of build a kind of Drawer/seat/lounge for the kids.
This Drawer/seat/lounge would be set up only in case we have kids watching movies and it would be hidden under second riser.
The distance is really short to the screen, position is terrible.
But they are kids. they do not care about quality of it. they just want have some fun.
So adults would sit in the two rows and kids would rely in the Drawer/seat/lounge.

Screen and False Wall
Still wondering Size 110 to 140) and aspect (16:9 or 2.35)
But I was planning to have all the speakers and also the equipment below the screen.
Since it is not perforated screen, Speakers are positioned in a way I can use a normal screen material.
if the speakers are in a too low position, I might consider in an a acoustic screen and put the front and central speakers just below the screen.
But idea is to have normal screen and raise the fronts of needed. Central would still be under the screen (pointing to viewers)
Stage
Do I really need one or it is only for aesthetics?

Columns/Pillars in side walls.
I am planning to put the surrounds hidden in the columns and maybe some lights (sconces) on the side walls.
But do I need them for any acoustic reasons?
Or it is just the same thing for acoustics. With or without columns

Floor
Carpet all over the floor.
That's Ok. But do I need something between the brick/cement and the carpet?

Sidewalls
Should I use any material in the sidewalls?
Covering whole walls with any material and/or fabrics? Like Half Duct Liner and half polly/cotton batting everything covered with some fabric?
Remember the whole room is built in brick+cement.
And can I do it directly in the wall using glue or something similar or for cement/brick I will also have to go with the framing route?

Front Wall
Should I cover whole wall with 1"duct liner as well or should I consider something thicker or even a different material?

Back Wall
Same as side walls?

Ceiling
I could notice that almost all the dedicated ceilings shown in AVS have the ceiling with a "square dome"( don't know how to say that).
Instead of having plain ceiling, people make a ceiling in two levels.
Is this anything to do with acoustics or pure aesthetics?
And the material? Should i use anything but painting?

Lighting
Still did not decided if using Grafik Eye or not with 3 or 4 circuits/zones

Overall
These are the preliminary info and of course I have forgotten to inform important details.
They will pop up along the thread.
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post #2 of 26 Old 09-10-2009, 01:21 PM
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If you are going to be dedicating the space to only movies I would say definately go 2:35.

Also we can't get everything we need from Home Depot or Lowes either, including GOM or linacoustic .

Hopefully the online vendors we order these types of things can ship to Brazil for you.

I would recommend at least a 4 zone GE if not 6 zone for better independent control of everything.
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post #3 of 26 Old 09-10-2009, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

If you are going to be dedicating the space to only movies I would say definately go 2:35.

Also we can't get everything we need from Home Depot or Lowes either, including GOM or linacoustic .

Hopefully the online vendors we order these types of things can ship to Brazil for you.

I would recommend at least a 4 zone GE if not 6 zone for better independent control of everything.

Well, i was wondering the same thing about getting 2.35 screen.
Issue Here is that i have a projector with manual zoom/focus and do not have any anamorphic lens.
So i thought it would be a bit tricky if i have movies in 2.35 and others in 16:9. But definitely it is only for movies,
Maybe BD from some shows in the future (lost, 24, and etc)
But 99% will be movies in Blu ray!
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post #4 of 26 Old 09-10-2009, 02:59 PM
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The majority of movies coming out and on blu ray seem to be cinemascope. Scope can range but it's mostly either 2:40 or 2:35 for that reason a lot of people split the difference and get 2:37 screen. I built my own screen and made it 2:37.

You mentioned perhaps building your own screen, if you want to do so and want to make it acoustically transparent then you want to consider getting the Center Stage XD material from SeymourAV or Phifer Sheerweave from Interior Mall

Seymour's product is second genaration weave with improved qualities so that would be my first choice.

I am not certain if you have the projector already or not, that may be a limiting factor. If you don't then you would want to consider the Panasonic 3000 or the upcoming 4000. The Panasonic offers an automatic zoom to 2:35 which you can program. At the press of a button it will switch between 2:35 and 16:9. Other than that there are alternatives of either a DIY lens with trophy prisms or surplus shed prisms (I believe they ship internationally).

Problem being if you have an Epson (other than the 7100 or 7500) is that you will need either a scaler/video processor, htpc or blu ray player with the ability to vertically stretch the image to get rid of black bars and then the lens will stretch it horizontally.
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post #5 of 26 Old 09-10-2009, 06:06 PM
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I will work on your theater for plane ticket, room and board. I could bring all the GOM you order in a suitcase. Linacoustic would be more of a challenge. Is there a bus that goes to the beach?
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post #6 of 26 Old 09-10-2009, 06:46 PM
 
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I really like your plans....The seating looks sweet....(Now get started!)....
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post #7 of 26 Old 09-11-2009, 06:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

The majority of movies coming out and on blu ray seem to be cinemascope. Scope can range but it's mostly either 2:40 or 2:35 for that reason a lot of people split the difference and get 2:37 screen. I built my own screen and made it 2:37.

You mentioned perhaps building your own screen, if you want to do so and want to make it acoustically transparent then you want to consider getting the Center Stage XD material from SeymourAV or Phifer Sheerweave from Interior Mall

Seymour's product is second genaration weave with improved qualities so that would be my first choice.

I am not certain if you have the projector already or not, that may be a limiting factor. If you don't then you would want to consider the Panasonic 3000 or the upcoming 4000. The Panasonic offers an automatic zoom to 2:35 which you can program. At the press of a button it will switch between 2:35 and 16:9. Other than that there are alternatives of either a DIY lens with trophy prisms or surplus shed prisms (I believe they ship internationally).

Problem being if you have an Epson (other than the 7100 or 7500) is that you will need either a scaler/video processor, htpc or blu ray player with the ability to vertically stretch the image to get rid of black bars and then the lens will stretch it horizontally.

Well, as i said the 2.35 or 37 or even 40 would not be a bad idea!!!
And do you think i would have a significant gain using an AT screen?
I mean, for the main speakers that would not have main beneffits once i can place them in both sides. But wih the Central it mat affect.
Do you think when positioning the central below the screen compromises the sound quality?

And yes, i have already the Epson 1080P first Generation.
And i was not planning to replace right now.
I will check first the street prices here f i try to sell.
But this discussion about zooming, the lens and players still confuses me. i believe i have to read more to really understand.
But as far as i undrerstand from ytour words, Either i get a Pana 3000 or 4000 or keep the Epson and build some Lens plus a Player which makes the horizontal stretch?
is that you meant?
Cheers,
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post #8 of 26 Old 09-11-2009, 06:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogone View Post

I really like your plans....The seating looks sweet....(Now get started!)....

I am afraid to get started and miss something that can make a huge difference!
Anyway we are starting retrofiting the interior of the apartment and after that, we will go to the Balcony, Sauna and then the Hometheater area
;-)
time is running for me
hehe
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post #9 of 26 Old 09-11-2009, 07:02 AM
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Yes. The panasonic can zoom automatically once programmed, the black bars off the screen. They are still there but it will be projected onto the border and/or black wall. So it basically dissapears. You can still do this with the Epson but it will be manual.

The other method is add vertical stretch which the Epson doesn't offer for HD, the Panasonic does. Vertical stretch will stretch the image being projected and eliminate the black bars all together, but everyone will be tall and thin. When you add the lens it will stretch the image left to right and this will correct the size of everything. The benifit of adding the lens is that you are using all of the projector's pixels and not wasting any on the black bars and stretching out the image more than you have to.

If you keep the Epson, some blu ray players can do the vertical stretch but not all. A video processor, also known as a scaler can do the stretch and a number of other things. Here is one of the more affordable ones and can often be found for less than this.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D4KWXM/...l_746h1dnpg8_b

Also some receivers will do this as well.

One other thing is that you can also buy a proffesional lens, but they are a bit costly.
http://prismasonic.com/english/index.shtml

This website has a good presentation of how it works with their lens.
http://140.174.70.67/#/home/
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post #10 of 26 Old 09-11-2009, 07:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I will work on your theater for plane ticket, room and board. I could bring all the GOM you order in a suitcase. Linacoustic would be more of a challenge. Is there a bus that goes to the beach?

My friend, don't say that since I may accept!!!

How long would you need?!
I would pay your ticket,your accomodation, food at house and you could go to the beach everyday and then work in the theater.
January is good?
But believe me man, once you come and stay one month (mainly during December-March Period) you would want to move to Rio!
;-)
By the way, my place is 9 minutes walking to the most amazing square inch os sand in the world.
Praia do Pepe (Pepe Beach)
There is nothing like that.
I have been everywhere in the world for work reasons.
Visit many places.
Nothing comes even close!!!

Anyway, i would be happy to honor hour deal.
And even if you do not come for any reason... i would also happy with your online expertise
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post #11 of 26 Old 09-11-2009, 07:13 AM
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post #12 of 26 Old 09-11-2009, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Yes. The panasonic can zoom automatically once programmed, the black bars off the screen. They are still there but it will be projected onto the border and/or black wall. So it basically dissapears. You can still do this with the Epson but it will be manual.

The other method is add vertical stretch which the Epson doesn't offer for HD, the Panasonic does. Vertical stretch will stretch the image being projected and eliminate the black bars all together, but everyone will be tall and thin. When you add the lens it will stretch the image left to right and this will correct the size of everything. The benifit of adding the lens is that you are using all of the projector's pixels and not wasting any on the black bars and stretching out the image more than you have to.

If you keep the Epson, some blu ray players can do the vertical stretch but not all. A video processor, also known as a scaler can do the stretch and a number of other things. Here is one of the more affordable ones and can often be found for less than this.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D4KWXM/...l_746h1dnpg8_b

Also some receivers will do this as well.

One other thing is that you can also buy a proffesional lens, but they are a bit costly.
http://prismasonic.com/english/index.shtml

This website has a good presentation of how it works with their lens.
http://140.174.70.67/#/home/


Cool!
I am reading these info.
I will post again abut it as soon i read them.
May thanks my friend
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post #13 of 26 Old 09-11-2009, 07:40 AM
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Big, This is a big (no pun intended) job and I think you will need an assistant. I humbly offer my services. It's will be a tough job but I think I can handle it. Plus I speak fluent portugese!!

Understanding the unexplainable"
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post #14 of 26 Old 09-11-2009, 07:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Big, This is a big (no pun intended) job and I think you will need an assistant. I humbly offer my services. It's will be a tough job but I think I can handle it. Plus I speak flutent portugese!!

Well, i have not even started and my costs are already increasing!!!
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post #15 of 26 Old 09-11-2009, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Yes. The panasonic can zoom automatically once programmed, the black bars off the screen. They are still there but it will be projected onto the border and/or black wall. So it basically dissapears. You can still do this with the Epson but it will be manual.

The other method is add vertical stretch which the Epson doesn't offer for HD, the Panasonic does. Vertical stretch will stretch the image being projected and eliminate the black bars all together, but everyone will be tall and thin. When you add the lens it will stretch the image left to right and this will correct the size of everything. The benifit of adding the lens is that you are using all of the projector's pixels and not wasting any on the black bars and stretching out the image more than you have to.

If you keep the Epson, some blu ray players can do the vertical stretch but not all. A video processor, also known as a scaler can do the stretch and a number of other things. Here is one of the more affordable ones and can often be found for less than this.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D4KWXM/...l_746h1dnpg8_b

Also some receivers will do this as well.

One other thing is that you can also buy a proffesional lens, but they are a bit costly.
http://prismasonic.com/english/index.shtml

This website has a good presentation of how it works with their lens.
http://140.174.70.67/#/home/

So imagine i keep the Epson.
I Still would need the Vertical Stretch from Player/scaler and etc and also the lens for Horizontal stretch.
Well, Oppo Player has the Vertical Stretch.
So having an OPPO, i would need now the lens.
Right?
Well, i was already planning for 2.something screen.
Now i definitely will go in that direction.
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post #16 of 26 Old 09-11-2009, 09:22 AM
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Ibsenp, you got it.

That is perfect if your oppo offers vertical stretch. You only need the lens now, wether you make your own, buy a new or used one. Sometimes one can be had quite affordably from the used market. Also look at the new MKIII

http://cavx.blogspot.com/2007/12/aus...ming-soon.html

Mark (CAVX) participates here on the forum but more in the 2:35 section.
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post #17 of 26 Old 09-11-2009, 09:26 AM
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To tackle some of your questions. Stage?

Yes mostly aesthetics but there are 4 other reasons often mentioned.

It is part of an overall strategy to get the speakers to the right height for the room

If you fill the part under the speakers with sand it will act to minimize the transfer of vibrations to the floor and to the adjoining apartments. However adding sand can get heavy so you need to be very careful in planning this element. The stage should be built not touching the walls and any parts not filled with sand should be filled with insulation to minimize resonances.

Lastly if properly shaped it can act as a deterrent to people who would like to walk up and touch the screen. Also gives you some advance warning if you see them stepping up and you can ask them not to touch the screen.

If you have children in your extended family/ friends it provides a performance space.

I think most people will tell you that a properly designed stage is part of the overall WOW factor that defines a theater.

Here is my favorite design. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post17094377
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AT screen, You may want to consider ordering fabric for an Acoustically Transparent screen from Seymour AV. Then make a frame. http://www.seymourav.com/

You could ask them to mail you a sample of the fabric so you can see what it is like. I see that they ship internationally.
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post #19 of 26 Old 09-14-2009, 07:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Ibsenp, you got it.

That is perfect if your oppo offers vertical stretch. You only need the lens now, wether you make your own, buy a new or used one. Sometimes one can be had quite affordably from the used market. Also look at the new MKIII

http://cavx.blogspot.com/2007/12/aus...ming-soon.html

Mark (CAVX) participates here on the forum but more in the 2:35 section.

Hi my friend,
After reading a lot this weekend, i am going in the Center Stage XD Material for a DYI 2.37 screen (Still trying to understand if the 15 degrees tilt needed) and also dediding for a Aussiemorphic lens.
So i believe these two issues are already solved.
I saw you have a curved screen.
How did you like taht and how do you compare with the straight one?
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post #20 of 26 Old 09-14-2009, 08:28 AM
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With the Epson you will still need to tilt the fabric I believe but double check with Chris as he has done some pretty good research on it. The pixels on the Epson for some reason just tend to line up really well with the grid of the fabric and can still introduce some moire. Your best bet is to always tilt because of future upgrades and not knowing how your next projector look on your screen.

The assuiemorphic lens is a great option, Mark has invested a lot time and effort into this product, it almost wasn't put into production. He is working on a additional element which you can add afterwards to correct chromatic abbiration and it will definately put it in line with the more expensive competitors.

The curved screen is awesome, not only does it add that wow factor it aids in correcting what is called pincushion when you add an anamorphic lens. If you throw is long enough pincushion will be naturally minimized. However with a throw ratio of 2.0 or less it is noticeable and most simply zoom the image a little more so that it falls off onto the screens border.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...3&postcount=28

The opposite is true though if you use a curved screen with no lens, it creates barrel distortion where everything is pushing outwards on all sides. A straight screen is great with no lens, if you are zooming or have a very long throw.

Here is a link to Aussiebobs calculator in order to figure how much of a curve you will need if you decide to go for a curved screen.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1118055
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post #21 of 26 Old 09-14-2009, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

To tackle some of your questions. Stage?

Yes mostly aesthetics but there are 4 other reasons often mentioned.

It is part of an overall strategy to get the speakers to the right height for the room

If you fill the part under the speakers with sand it will act to minimize the transfer of vibrations to the floor and to the adjoining apartments. However adding sand can get heavy so you need to be very careful in planning this element. The stage should be built not touching the walls and any parts not filled with sand should be filled with insulation to minimize resonances.

Lastly if properly shaped it can act as a deterrent to people who would like to walk up and touch the screen. Also gives you some advance warning if you see them stepping up and you can ask them not to touch the screen.

If you have children in your extended family/ friends it provides a performance space.

I think most people will tell you that a properly designed stage is part of the overall WOW factor that defines a theater.

Here is my favorite design. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post17094377

Well, so more one thing decided.
Stage!
How about the ceilling?
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post #22 of 26 Old 09-14-2009, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

To tackle some of your questions. Stage?

Yes mostly aesthetics but there are 4 other reasons often mentioned.

It is part of an overall strategy to get the speakers to the right height for the room

If you fill the part under the speakers with sand it will act to minimize the transfer of vibrations to the floor and to the adjoining apartments. However adding sand can get heavy so you need to be very careful in planning this element. The stage should be built not touching the walls and any parts not filled with sand should be filled with insulation to minimize resonances.

Lastly if properly shaped it can act as a deterrent to people who would like to walk up and touch the screen. Also gives you some advance warning if you see them stepping up and you can ask them not to touch the screen.

If you have children in your extended family/ friends it provides a performance space.

I think most people will tell you that a properly designed stage is part of the overall WOW factor that defines a theater.

Here is my favorite design. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post17094377

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

AT screen, You may want to consider ordering fabric for an Acoustically Transparent screen from Seymour AV. Then make a frame. http://www.seymourav.com/

You could ask them to mail you a sample of the fabric so you can see what it is like. I see that they ship internationally.

Hi Big,
In fact i have already decided the Seymour Screen Material.
i will put main speakers and the central behind the screen.
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post #23 of 26 Old 09-14-2009, 11:05 AM
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Ceiling Height. A good number of our US builds are done in our basements which are usually eight or nine feet of headroom. Often we have to work around AC ducts and plumbing that is installed under the joists that we hopefully can hide in soffits around the perimeter of the room.

We are usually pretty happy with 8 ft and many lucky guys have 9-10 ft to work with. As I look at your drawings I notice that you have the first row of seating elevated, something that we normally don't do because of our height limitations.

If you are going with that design I am guessing that a 10+ ft ceiling height for the room might be desirable. I assume from your comments and pictures that you are taking out the glass walls and ceiling and building a wider room with a real roof and ceiling. It certainly would be prudent to do some CAD drawings and see how the room looks at various heights. You might think about how to add some design to the ceiling or a star field ceiling. Incorporating some acoustical treatments on the ceiling is something your acoustical consultant should comment on.

I've seen ceilings that are flat back, ceilings that are opera house ornate and everything in between here on the forum.
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post #24 of 26 Old 09-15-2009, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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With the Epson you will still need to tilt the fabric I believe but double check with Chris as he has done some pretty good research on it. The pixels on the Epson for some reason just tend to line up really well with the grid of the fabric and can still introduce some moire. Your best bet is to always tilt because of future upgrades and not knowing how your next projector look on your screen.

The assuiemorphic lens is a great option, Mark has invested a lot time and effort into this product, it almost wasn't put into production. He is working on a additional element which you can add afterwards to correct chromatic abbiration and it will definately put it in line with the more expensive competitors.

The curved screen is awesome, not only does it add that wow factor it aids in correcting what is called pincushion when you add an anamorphic lens. If you throw is long enough pincushion will be naturally minimized. However with a throw ratio of 2.0 or less it is noticeable and most simply zoom the image a little more so that it falls off onto the screens border.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...3&postcount=28

The opposite is true though if you use a curved screen with no lens, it creates barrel distortion where everything is pushing outwards on all sides. A straight screen is great with no lens, if you are zooming or have a very long throw.

Here is a link to Aussiebobs calculator in order to figure how much of a curve you will need if you decide to go for a curved screen.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1118055

Hi my friend,
Exactly.
Plan is to upgrade to JVC in the future but spending in the Lens, screen and room construction, projector upgrade will be done later.
So, i will probably continue with the Epson for a while thus the possible moire issues.
I have decided to buy the 98 wide version from the screen material.
And i will try to tilt as much as possible.
Regarding the lens, i have even wondered about the HTB.
I would save 1K!!!
But i believe the Aussie one will be in fact be a better option.
How were the experience from the guys buying them from Australia? Any issues with customs?

And about the curved screen i have to research more.
I have some DIY skills but nothing like you guys!
And i still don't know if the gains will be that dramatic.
What do you think?
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post #25 of 26 Old 09-15-2009, 06:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Ceiling Height. A good number of our US builds are done in our basements which are usually eight or nine feet of headroom. Often we have to work around AC ducts and plumbing that is installed under the joists that we hopefully can hide in soffits around the perimeter of the room.

We are usually pretty happy with 8 ft and many lucky guys have 9-10 ft to work with. As I look at your drawings I notice that you have the first row of seating elevated, something that we normally don't do because of our height limitations.

If you are going with that design I am guessing that a 10+ ft ceiling height for the room might be desirable. I assume from your comments and pictures that you are taking out the glass walls and ceiling and building a wider room with a real roof and ceiling. It certainly would be prudent to do some CAD drawings and see how the room looks at various heights. You might think about how to add some design to the ceiling or a star field ceiling. Incorporating some acoustical treatments on the ceiling is something your acoustical consultant should comment on.

I've seen ceilings that are flat back, ceilings that are opera house ornate and everything in between here on the forum.

Exactly! At least something i won't have problems.
The room height. As i said, i can use whatever height needed.
I will revove the side, back and ceilling walls made by "windows" and glass (i honestly don't know what the previous owner was thinking
and will build our normal cement+brick walls/ceilling.
About the desing i am a bit lost.
Still don't know if i make something simple and flat or at least a "two level ceiling" (as i mentioned before, i noticed most of the dedicated rooms have this kind of design.
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post #26 of 26 Old 09-15-2009, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibsenp View Post

But i believe the Aussie one will be in fact be a better option.
How were the experience from the guys buying them from Australia? Any issues with customs?

And about the curved screen i have to research more.
I have some DIY skills but nothing like you guys!
And i still don't know if the gains will be that dramatic.
What do you think?

Never heard of anyone having a problem getting a lens from them. In my opinion the new CAVX and HTB lens don't even compare.

As far as the curved screen it all kind of depends on how far back you from the screen you plan to have the projector. If the throw will be greater than 2.0 it really won't be much of an issue. With the CAVX lens pincushion is not that bad I believe as shown the pics on here.

http://www.ozts.com.au/lens.htm

Look at the bottom pic, it states that the throw is 2.2:1 and I can't any pincushion.
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