After 6 months of planning/CAD, and another 6 months of construction, not to mention concurrent perusing of the many inspirational threads here, I'm posting the results of converting my second floor bonus room, 11.5’ x 17’ x 8’. More talk later, first have a peek.
Equipment console with AV processor, CD player, BD player, and BassQ processor
Full screen 16x9
2.40:1 Wide screen
Two of the four new HSU subwoofers. When the screen is retracted into the soffit, the windows (and removable plugs) are visible.
The motorized screen is programmed to stop at 16x9 and 2.40:1 aspect ratios (same width), and can roll down enough to achieve a 2.7:1 aspect ratio--not that it will be needed. The picture below shows how the screen rides behind an 8' flat acoustic panel which masks the bottom, and a pair of ASC half round bass traps on either side which hide the screen tensioners.
Shows the right side wall, and the lighted stairs. The surround speakers are behind the grill cloth frames.
The door, right smack in the middle of the side wall first reflection points, has a Perf-Sorber panel, with cutout for the handle. There is another such panel on the opposite wall.
Why I call it the Deadwood.
Custom carved sign over door
I should probably mention that, IMHO, the room sounds great, and the projected picture really impresses me.
106” diag 16:9 Da-Lite Tensioned Advantage Electrol, High Contrast Cinema Vision surface, 22” total drop, SCB-200 and IR-200 remote. Bottom of screen drops behind fixed masking (acoustic) panel 30” above floor. IR control calls preset drop positions. Max aspect ratio 2.70:1. Screen fully retracts to expose windows when not in use. Here's how I programmed the SCB-200 screen controller.
L/R Aerial Acoustics 7B
C Aerial Acoustics CC3B
While the pictures show the Aerial SW12, that has been sold.
4 Hsu ULS-15 subs are now installed (as of 8/2010) See post 49 for more details.
4 surrounds B&W CWM-8180 inwalls in custom back boxes lined with MLV
· mounted with lens aligned to top of screen in 16x9 position
· 15’ throw
· sits in open frame rack for good air flow
· Classe CA-201 for L/R
· Classe CAV-150 for C and 4 surrounds
AV processor: Classe SSP-800
DVR/OTA tuner: DirecTV HR21/AM21
Blu-ray / DVD player: Oppo BDP-93
CD player: Sony CDP-X55
Media Player: AppleTV, Gen1 160GB for photos and CD collection, all ripped AIFF
APC UPS for DVR/ATV/SSP inside console
Custom oak stand for amps and C speaker with angled top
Ekornes Stressless Arion 3-seat recliner (2 rows) with low backs to prevent blocking the surrounds. Front row has matching ottoman.
Equipment console, model Santa Fe, made by Prestige Furniture
Installed 13 35W soffit spots in 4” Halo cans to supplement the four existing 50W ceiling floods
6 Lutron RadioRA dimmers drive these light groups:
Rear room soffit spots (6)
Front room soffit spots (7)
Ceiling recessed floods (4)
Stair/riser 20” incandescent strips (2)
Accent lamps on riser end tables (2)
The RadioRA remote calls 5 scenes plus all on/off
- 300 lb STC-56 door to keep sound out of main hallway
- QuietRock510 on common wall with GreenGlue/SilenSeal
- Over subfloor is layer of original carpet (pad removed), ¾” T&G OSB/GG/5/8” plywood, MLV, felt pad, carpet.
- 13” riser built over foam carpet pad, filled with pink insulation, 5 vents on top for bass trapping. ½” felt pad under carpet.
- 2” Quest Perf-Sorbers for side-wall first reflections
- 2” absorber ceiling cloud for first reflections (AcousticsFirst)
- 2” absorber inserts for all windows to block light, reduce sound intrusion, and provide absorption on front/rear walls (AcousticsFirst)
- 4.5” diffusors on side-surround walls (Model C, AcousticsFirst)
- side soffits have carpet inserts on bottom surfaces to reduce reflections and pass LF to 5.5” cotton insulation inside
- 1” 2’x8’ absorber panel under screen acts as lower masking (AcousticsFirst)
- ASC Tube Traps (20” half round x 7’ tall) in front L/R corners flanking screen
- Custom ASC triangular (15”x20”x3’ tall) bass absorbers in rear corners coupled into riser
The ceiling cloud is suspended by wires from eyelets, and they looked ugly, so I cut some 4" sections of foam pipe insulation and covered them with it. Cheap and cheerful, as they say! The front side of the timber frame is painted black to reduce reflections back onto the screen, as it sits only a couple feet away.
Front windows, and some AV gear awaiting a purpose
Door with partial framing
The amp rack is made out of oak bits from Lowes. The shelves are 4' stair treads cut in half, then biscuit jointed. No sagging allowed! The top shelf tilts the C speaker up 5º.
- Ceiling and front wall painted black
- Side walls and diffusors painted deep red
- Acoustic panels in GOM 408 black
- Carpet Style Contour, color Olive Branch
- Timber frame: resawn douglas fir
- Door casing and baseboards: knotty alder
- Soffit side panels: hemlock
- All woods finished with Polyshades Pecan satin
Looking forward from MLP
From MLP. a look over the shoulder. (Not my actual surrounds, but a model I found at Sketchup warehouse.)
Last edited by Roger Dressler; 07-22-2014 at 10:28 PM.
The window plugs are just 2" thick acoustic panels from AcousticsFirst. They have half beveled, hardened edges, so they will not get mushy over time. I added black felt backing (3M 77!) to cover the exposed yellow fill, as they don't have a full wrap option. Also made handle pulls out of alder trim, screwed from the back thru fender washers. The plugs just slide into the window cavities, which are 4" deep, and hold themselves in there. There's three in front and two larger ones in the rear. I was lucky they came out exactly the size I specified--they stay put, yet come out easily.
If you mean those red, lumpy things, those are Model C diffusors from AcousticsFirst. Had them spray painted by a local guy with the latex wall paint. Each was stuffed with loose fiberglass (same as in the riser) before sealing them to the wall (SilenSeal) to reduce resonance--which really works (thanks to Keith Yates for that sage advice!). To hide the joints between panels and around the edges, I used "1 by 2" poplar. I probably could have used half as many panels, eliminating the upper row up against the soffit, but I didn't want more absorption, nor slap echos, and they look interesting...
Added a picture in Post 3 showing the ceiling cloud. Like the other black panels, it's 2" thick, from AcousticsFirst--came with a hanging frame glued on.
The only panels that are not from them are the Perf-Sorbers on the side wall first reflection points, which can be seen in Post 1. They look the same as the others, but there's a layer of perforated foil under the GOM, and another one sandwiched between the two 1" layers of fiberglass, so they have different acoustic properties than a normal absorber.
Thanks for that. As others have observed, I favor music as much or more than movies, so didn't want the screen influencing the sound. Tony Grimani's excellent articles in issues 140/141 of Widescreen Review went to great pains to determine just how 'T' those AT screens are. Some are quite good, but the best are not yet in motorized form, which I must have.
Visually, it's all a lot less busy looking when the lights are off for a movie. They do not distract at all.
I made sure to keep the C speaker as high as possible, and it's only 8" below the L/R, wrt tweeter/midrange. Keeping the L/C/R away from chambers, baffles, and corners I think helps the sound quality, too.
Thanks! I plowed ahead with the soffit construction and figured I'd deal with rattles if/when they reared their head. They don't rattle at all. I suspect that's because the "door" is not in contact with the ceiling, and that the self-closing hinges are spring-loaded.
About all I have is the CAD drawing I used to play with the design of the door slats, attached. This a cross section, and the slats are "1x4" 12' long strips of hemlock right off the rack. For scale, the blue squares are 1.5". If you have any particular questions, let me know.
BTW - good job, I love the colours and timber
Front row (eyeballs) are 10' from front wall, and rear row's are 14.5'. The smaller than typical 4.5' row spacing is possible because there are no footrests on the seats. Many of my guests prefer the back row, and there's room to cross their legs, so it appears to work fine. Nice to have the option for two different sight/sound perspectives. And they are different.
Here's a scale diagram of the room.
Front row (eyeballs) are 10' from front wall, and rear row's are 14.5'. The smaller than typical 4.5' row spacing is possible because there are no footrests on the seats. Many of my guests prefer the back row, so it appears to work fine. Nice to have the option for two different sight/sound perspectives. And they are different.
Sweet, did you do it all yourself!
I wish I was that handy
Thanks! Yes, the only things I jobbed out were some HVAC ducting, carpeting, hefting the 300-lb door up the stairs , and a carved sign for the doorway (picture added in Post 1).
Excellent work. You ought to do a write-up for Home Theater...every month there's a DIY article for Home Theater Interiors....send me a PM if you're interested.
Blu-ray Reviewer / Technical Writer
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