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post #181 of 428 Old 12-12-2009, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

Hanes - luckily there is a Home Depot on my way to (and from) work. I was just hoping I wouldn't have to break up the first "build sprint" day with ANY trips let alone THREE!

Big - thanks for the reminder. The plan is to have all of the pressure treated base plates shot into the concrete by end of day tomorrow, maybe Wednesday. Hopefully all the partition walls (bottom plate, top plate, and vertical members) will be in place by end of day Friday. I know that is pushing the "couple day" rule of thumb, but I'm willing to live a little on the wild side (and pay for it later).

Chia - my wife gets a good laugh a couple times a week because I've been spending lunch hours at the HD that is 5 minutes from my office...

On to the progress (or lack thereof).

Today started out great! Lowes delivered and unloaded the lumber by 7:15am. It was all down the hatch (photo below) by 10:00am. The UPS man showed up with the DC04 clips at 10:30am - he never shows before 3pm.

As delivered

Hi Audixium,

How much did the wood cost including shipping? Thanks!
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post #182 of 428 Old 12-12-2009, 09:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiahead View Post

So you have already sprained your ankle on your first build sprint huh? Remember, this is a marathon, not a sprint.

Yes, I am now one with the fact that there is no end...only a beginning. I spent some time framing today.


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your right, demo comes first!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

Mmmmmm.... I like that, have to break down the monitor. All for the good of THE DEMO. Thank you for waiting Zen Garden!

The monitor is awesome, 1920x1200 goodness. Coming from a 20" widescreen this thing is HUGE! It also is very elegant in appearance compared to your average computer LCD.



One of the best parts is that it takes component, HDMI x2, DVI, etc. so I can hook it up to various HD sources besides the workstation. I had planned to use it as a dual monitor setup with my 20". But now I think I'm going to have to get a second one and let my son run the 20" as a secondary with his 22"!

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post #183 of 428 Old 12-12-2009, 09:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v1rtu0s1ty View Post

Hi Audixium,

How much did the wood cost including shipping? Thanks!

Just under $675 (shipping was $75 of that).

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post #184 of 428 Old 12-16-2009, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanesian View Post

BTW, oh Zenny-One, I assume by now you will have realized that the three nailer kit you bought doesn't include the main nailer you really need: a framing gun. Do as I did, and beg, borrow or steal one of these:


is that a paintball gun? where can I get one.

chester
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post #185 of 428 Old 12-24-2009, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chester aldrid View Post

is that a paintball gun? where can I get one.

chester

+1...that is cool looking...

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post #186 of 428 Old 12-25-2009, 12:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chester aldrid View Post

is that a paintball gun? where can I get one.

chester

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidinCT View Post

+1...that is cool looking...

Hanes?

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post #187 of 428 Old 12-25-2009, 12:37 AM - Thread Starter
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MERRY CHRISTMAS!


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post #188 of 428 Old 12-25-2009, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chester aldrid View Post

is that a paintball gun? where can I get one.

chester

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidinCT View Post

+1...that is cool looking...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

Hanes?



Aw, jeeeeeeez ... yous guys been watchin' too mucha dat fantasy pulp fiction stuff on the interwebs again or somethin? That there is what we true Americans call a drill gun, not one a dem whatchamacallit painting ball guns! Didn't your old man teach you nothin'? Tools is for woikin', guns is for killin' animals and bad guys, and paint brushes is for paintin'!

Now get outta my chair, meathead!

Oh yeah, and Merry Christmas and yule tidings of yore and all dat.

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post #189 of 428 Old 01-14-2010, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Decisions:
  1. I'm not going with a platform in the second row/rear area. Instead I'll just use counter height bar stools that are extra comfy.
  2. Going with a single 36" door instead of a double door solid/french door type of entry.
  3. I'm going to extend the studio into the theater space, making it a hybrid.

Actions:

I'm off Monday and Tuesday. The hope is to finish the framing (ha, ha, ha, ha, ha, ha, ha, ha....)

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post #190 of 428 Old 01-15-2010, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

I'm off Monday and Tuesday. The hope is to finish the framing (ha, ha, ha, ha, ha, ha, ha, ha....)

Ok, I'm going to be watching for an update on Wednesday then!

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post #191 of 428 Old 01-15-2010, 09:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

Ok, I'm going to be watching for an update on Wednesday then!

Others may prefer an official update regarding the demo disc ...which I'm working on right now. Gotta love a dual setup of 26" and 20" widescreen monitors! Especially when flanking the main display are your desktop speakers resting on DIY (ahem, custom) stands!

This little side project has distracted me...I've been trying to replicate these stands. I could only find them in Japan, and the only distributor won't ship to the US (go figure).



So I bought a router, drew it out in Visio, printed the template, rough cut it with a jigsaw, "planed" it with a straight edge router bit, hit the 45 router cut, and BAM! I am now at one with my new ear level desktop tweeters.

At some point Monday or Tuesday I'll be focusing on finishing these off. But, the main priority is getting to the point where I can say the basement framing is done. (and also that the demo disc beta is ready for download)

For those who follow the link, consider this Zen wisdom: "It is like swallowing a red-hot iron ball. You try to vomit it out, but you can't."

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post #192 of 428 Old 01-16-2010, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post


So I bought a router, drew it out in Visio, printed the template, rough cut it with a jigsaw, "planed" it with a straight edge router bit, hit the 45 router cut, and BAM! I am now at one with my new ear level desktop tweeters.

Too bad you went to all that trouble, oh Zen Master ... you should have gotten what you needed here.

All right, folks, let's remind him to forget the distractions like DIY speaker stands and HT building ... it's time for the Demo Disk Dance:

Demo disk! Demo disk! Demo disk! Demo disk!



Oh yeah ... who's yo Daddy?!

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post #193 of 428 Old 01-16-2010, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Hanes - does your offspring know about all these pics of them you're posting online? I mean, in their jammies - borderline. But featherless and naked!? Definitely FBI material.

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post #194 of 428 Old 01-16-2010, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

Hanes - does your offspring know about all these pics of them you're posting online? I mean, in their jammies - borderline. But featherless and naked!? Definitely FBI material.

You're right. If I'm going to post pictures of someone dressed scantily, it should be pictures of me - not my family.

Mea culpa.

Here ya go ... just doing some light house keeping chores.


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post #195 of 428 Old 01-18-2010, 10:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I dunno, the guy in that pic looks awfully young to be Hanes.

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post #196 of 428 Old 01-18-2010, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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A couple of questions.

1) Main Cleanout on the rear wall
I'm trying to determine the correct way to frame around the house's main waste cleanout. Is my idea ok?



Proposed Framing


2) A/C Junction Box
So I'm now getting concerned about the ability to really isolate this room. I have a junction box between the joists - directly above the leftmost front row seat. I had intended the main soffit to extend all the way to the wall, enclosing this space. But once I noticed the box I realized a big problem. From what I understand code requires this box to be accessible, with no permanent structure preventing access.

A/C Junction Box inside main soffit




I'm sure I can build some sort of plug similar to windows, but I don't know where to start. Plug the soffit and be done with it? End the enclosed soffit before the junction box, seal it up, plug the ceiling access to the junction box, and then build a false soffit with another plug? How much of a problem will isolation be with this box in the mix?

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post #197 of 428 Old 01-18-2010, 10:38 AM
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Any way to eliminate the junction box? Should A/C be on it's own circuit? If so, why would it have a junction? I would look into that. Might be the easiest solution.

EDIT: After looking again, is it just 2 wires going to that box? If so then the installers didn't want to buy a full length wire and just spliced a couple of scraps together most likely. If so, change it out to a single wire and get rid of the junction.
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post #198 of 428 Old 01-18-2010, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by advertguy2 View Post

Any way to eliminate the junction box? Should A/C be on it's own circuit? If so, why would it have a junction? I would look into that. Might be the easiest solution.

EDIT: After looking again, is it just 2 wires going to that box? If so then the installers didn't want to buy a full length wire and just spliced a couple of scraps together most likely. If so, change it out to a single wire and get rid of the junction.

Thanks!

Builders

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post #199 of 428 Old 01-18-2010, 12:15 PM
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I just think of watching Holmes on Homes going ballistic over hidden junction boxes. He is right of course, but it is entertaining how worked up he gets.
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post #200 of 428 Old 01-18-2010, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

A couple of questions.

1) Main Cleanout on the rear wall
I'm trying to determine the correct way to frame around the house's main waste cleanout. Is my idea ok?

Proposed Framing


Hmmmmm, why not just create on big box out around that from the widest point in that main waste? That way its like one big wide column that will go all the way up to the ceiling, which will be easier on the eyes instead of all the staggered heights in your pic. (basically, eliminating all the inner most vertical boards you drew on the pic..and going a little wider with the outer 2 so you can go all the way to the ceiling with it.
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post #201 of 428 Old 01-18-2010, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

I dunno, the guy in that pic looks awfully young to be Hanes.

Amazing what a good wig and nice pumps can do for a fella.

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post #202 of 428 Old 01-18-2010, 04:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezug View Post

Hmmmmm, why not just create on big box out around that from the widest point in that main waste? That way its like one big wide column that will go all the way up to the ceiling, which will be easier on the eyes instead of all the staggered heights in your pic. (basically, eliminating all the inner most vertical boards you drew on the pic..and going a little wider with the outer 2 so you can go all the way to the ceiling with it.

I thought about that, but this entire area will be behind the rear bar/sink/rear columns. I should have mentioned that in my initial post. I had already framed the base plate, bottom plate, and top plate (remember, floating walls here) flush with the clean out opening so that when drywalled there will just be the "access panel" slightly raised. This will all be hidden by the interior room finishes.

Anyway, after measuring out my 16" on center vertical members, the plan has to change. Really, my mock up was just to gauge if that general method is wacky.

Got some progress made today. It took a good hour to clean up the mess I left the last time I was working down there. Then came the thinking, the meditation, the drinking, the medication, and finally some work.

This whole framing by yourself thing wouldn't be so bad if I didn't have to do floating walls. Black Banshee shared a great method - works perfectly for a one man operation. It's just when using DC04 clips to attach top plates to joists, and then having to float your walls, there is a precise process.

1) Measure/drill/screw DC04 clips to top plate, them hold up and drill/screw to joist (sometimes the other way around) - this is a two man operation.
2) Plumb down from hung top plates to get bottom plate lines (chaulk)
3) Shoot base plates into concrete
4) Stack two 2x4s on the base plate in a couple places (to get a 3" float) and lay the bottom plate across
5) Maintaining plumb and square, drill holes for the 6" nails (nail them in)
6) Measure/cut/nail each vertical member into place (after establishing 16" OC marks)

Whew....anyway, I did all the easy ones today. Tomorrow I'm framing in the windows, door, and that cleanout stack. I hope Mike (from Holmes on Homes) would fall down laughing after seeing my work.

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post #203 of 428 Old 01-18-2010, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

1) Main Cleanout on the rear wall
I'm trying to determine the correct way to frame around the house's main waste cleanout. Is my idea ok?

Proposed Framing

What are you going to put on the wall? If it's going to hold cabinets and the like, I think you'll need to attach the wall framing to the foundation wall. You can do this using DC04 clips (or something similar). If it's not going to hold anything more than a picture, you can frame it as you have shown. Just try to keep 16" OC for as long as you can to ease drywall installation. If it were me, I'd find a way to attach the wall to the foundation using clips. I'd certainly sleep better knowing it's not going to move.


Quote:


2) A/C Junction Box
So I'm now getting concerned about the ability to really isolate this room. I have a junction box between the joists - directly above the leftmost front row seat. I had intended the main soffit to extend all the way to the wall, enclosing this space. But once I noticed the box I realized a big problem. From what I understand code requires this box to be accessible, with no permanent structure preventing access.

If you can rewire to eliminate the junction box, I'd recommend that you do so. Put this on the list of things to look for when you build your next home. As a result of this photo, I've added this to my list too (if I ever build again).

Good luck!

CJ

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post #204 of 428 Old 01-18-2010, 09:17 PM
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What's above (floor above) the A/C box? Perhaps you could relocate it the other side of the floor without having to completely rewire? Another idea, depending on exact location would be to mount the junction box in your new theater ceiling and seal as you would any other receptacle. Just thinking out loud...

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post #205 of 428 Old 01-19-2010, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

1) Measure/drill/screw DC04 clips to top plate, them hold up and drill/screw to joist (sometimes the other way around) - this is a two man operation.

No need for a second person, just use plenty of clamps to hold the wall up. I used a 2x4 above the top plate to space it for the clips. Attached the wall and knocked the 2x4 out of the way.

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post #206 of 428 Old 01-20-2010, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

In preparation for the upcoming build sprint(s), I picked up a few tools this week:

1) Porter-Cable Three Nailer / Compressor Combo Kit

Quick question for you now that you have started on the framing. You mentioned picking up a framing nailer after realizing that the Porter-Cable Kit didn't include one; which one did you pick up and how is it working with the pancake compressor?

Chris

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post #207 of 428 Old 01-20-2010, 02:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

What are you going to put on the wall? If it's going to hold cabinets and the like, I think you'll need to attach the wall framing to the foundation wall. You can do this using DC04 clips (or something similar). If it's not going to hold anything more than a picture, you can frame it as you have shown. Just try to keep 16" OC for as long as you can to ease drywall installation. If it were me, I'd find a way to attach the wall to the foundation using clips. I'd certainly sleep better knowing it's not going to move.

There will be columns, base cabinets, tiling, OC703 panels, etc. I'll upload pics later that show more of the wall for reference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

If you can rewire to eliminate the junction box, I'd recommend that you do so. Put this on the list of things to look for when you build your next home. As a result of this photo, I've added this to my list too (if I ever build again).

Good luck!

CJ

Yeah, I'm going to have the electrician do this when he installs the subpanel.

And I'm definitely going to need luck getting through this whole build!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

What's above (floor above) the A/C box? Perhaps you could relocate it the other side of the floor without having to completely rewire? Another idea, depending on exact location would be to mount the junction box in your new theater ceiling and seal as you would any other receptacle. Just thinking out loud...

Good ideas - I checked out what was directly above and unfortunately it won't work out. I think having someone run a full length is fine in my book. Plus, it's one less thing "the amateur" has to worry about.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiahead View Post

No need for a second person, just use plenty of clamps to hold the wall up. I used a 2x4 above the top plate to space it for the clips. Attached the wall and knocked the 2x4 out of the way.

Now you tell me!

My floors just aren't level/consistent enough to ensure I'd end up with something square. My neighbor Black Banshee had the same problem with his concrete (same builder). After trying to build walls on the ground with limited success he switched to the method I described and clued me in.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

Quick question for you now that you have started on the framing. You mentioned picking up a framing nailer after realizing that the Porter-Cable Kit didn't include one; which one did you pick up and how is it working with the pancake compressor?

I picked up a Harbor Freight model since it would only be needed for this project. I'll check when I get home, but I'm pretty sure it is the one below.


10 Gauge 6-in-1 Air Framing Nailer


It works just fine. After about six to eight nails the compressor runs for a minute. For my current workflow that is just fine.



Updates with pics AND QUESTIONS will be posted later tonight!

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post #208 of 428 Old 01-21-2010, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

Quick question for you now that you have started on the framing. You mentioned picking up a framing nailer after realizing that the Porter-Cable Kit didn't include one; which one did you pick up and how is it working with the pancake compressor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

I picked up a Harbor Freight model since it would only be needed for this project. I'll check when I get home, but I'm pretty sure it is the one below.

It works just fine. After about six to eight nails the compressor runs for a minute. For my current workflow that is just fine.

Thanks for the info, and good luck with your framing.

Chris

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post #209 of 428 Old 02-02-2010, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

From 1/20/2010...
Updates with pics AND QUESTIONS will be posted later tonight!

Bueller?... Bueller?... Bueller?

Chris

"It hurts to admit when you make mistakes - but when they are big enough, the pain only lasts a second."
--Despair, Inc. "Regret"

My AviaTrix TM Build
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post #210 of 428 Old 02-02-2010, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

Quick question for you now that you have started on the framing. You mentioned picking up a framing nailer after realizing that the Porter-Cable Kit didn't include one; which one did you pick up and how is it working with the pancake compressor?

There was an online version of this deal that had a 4th framing nailer in it.

I got the same one and wish I would had waited. It was on HD website during the holidays but I don't see it anymore.
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