Village Theater Construction Thread - Page 11 - AVS Forum
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post #301 of 397 Old 09-08-2010, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll comment more, but I finally got the SmX 110" ProCurv screen in and the panels up in front. Even with a crappy Dell projector - the picture is AMAZING! Thanks for all the help Ruben! I have a few minor items to tweak up front, but I thought I would at least post some updated pictures.





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post #302 of 397 Old 09-09-2010, 06:26 AM
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Looks great Mark, nice job! Doesn't look like there's much if anything left to do (seating?).
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post #303 of 397 Old 09-09-2010, 07:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

Looks great Mark, nice job! Doesn't look like there's much if anything left to do (seating?).

Thanks Floyd! Lots more to do I'm afraid. I have to get the projector portal framed out, wainscoting and finish up the cabinets and trim in the lobby. Maybe by the SuperBowl.

I hope I don't get Logan'd!
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post #304 of 397 Old 09-10-2010, 08:13 PM
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Wow, nice theater! Very clean and nice color contrast. Got pics of the seating and risers? Did you make your own treatments and did you make any diffusors for the rear of the room?
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post #305 of 397 Old 09-11-2010, 05:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark P View Post

Wow, nice theater! Very clean and nice color contrast. Got pics of the seating and risers? Did you make your own treatments and did you make any diffusors for the rear of the room?

Thanks Mark! Funny you stopped by, as I just visited your thread the other day. Your theater was one of the first I noticed quite some time ago....

I have pics of the riser back in the thread, but here is one.





Haven't ordered the seats yet, but they will be 8 Berkline 32's "The Academy".

No back diffusers yet. Bpape did all the acoustics and designed the custom panels. He's recommending 4" OC703 top to bottom on the back wall to tame those 2 DD-15's in the front.
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post #306 of 397 Old 09-11-2010, 07:09 AM
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Outstanding!

Notice you're a Michigan fan........as a fan of the newest member of your conference, I look forward to the future!
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post #307 of 397 Old 09-11-2010, 08:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Outstanding!

Notice you're a Michigan fan........as a fan of the newest member of your conference, I look forward to the future!


I'm glad we got Nebraska! This should make for a much more interesting conference. THe only bad thing is that Michigan or Ohio will have to earn the right to play each other, since they are in different divisions. That rivalry keeps us going in the lean years.
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post #308 of 397 Old 09-11-2010, 02:14 PM
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I'm glad we got Nebraska! This should make for a much more interesting conference. THe only bad thing is that Michigan or Ohio will have to earn the right to play each other, since they are in different divisions. That rivalry keeps us going in the lean years.

You play yearly...guarenteed cross division rivals, like us and PSU.

If you "earn it", you play twice........back to back
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post #309 of 397 Old 09-13-2010, 12:56 PM
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wow, looks cool, i have a few questions...


what is the purpose of the risers/steps you installed in front of your screen? ive seen similar on several home theatre designs but never understood what it was, or its purpose.

and noticed as well, as in other theaters the print/floral pattern psycadelic designs in the carpet. why do lots of home theaters do this ?

did comercial theaters once used to look like this or something?

and lastly, are you sure your screen is gonna be big enough? i sit around 14-16 feet away from my screen and i have a 144" scope screen, and from 16 feet away, its too small. to get the equivelant effect as in a real theater, id need to go to about a 160". or sit about 12 feet away. which would result in more eye fatigue, and be alot less fun to watch.

i think one of the biggest aspects about going to a comercial theater is the fact that the screen is so huge combined with the fact that your so far away, created a more more relaxed viewing experience, so to recreate that in your home to the greatest extent possible, you need to go as big as possible, and sit as far away as you can, while still maintaining the similar viewing angle.

not sure if anyone else would agree with this??

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post #310 of 397 Old 09-13-2010, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainly View Post

what is the purpose of the risers/steps you installed in front of your screen? ive seen similar on several home theatre designs but never understood what it was, or its purpose.

and noticed as well, as in other theaters the print/floral pattern psycadelic designs in the carpet. why do lots of home theaters do this ?

did comercial theaters once used to look like this or something?

and lastly, are you sure your screen is gonna be big enough? i sit around 14-16 feet away from my screen and i have a 144" scope screen, and from 16 feet away, its too small. to get the equivelant effect as in a real theater, id need to go to about a 160". or sit about 12 feet away. which would result in more eye fatigue, and be alot less fun to watch.



I dont think the thing up front is a riser as much as its a stage? I would imagine the steps serve the same purpose as any step to a split level thats over 7" tall.

Carpet is preference I think, but alot of the old theaters had print to hide the pop stains and crud people disposed of on the floor..

I like a 1:1 seating from screen personally.....12' screen - 12' first row, good 1080P takes care of the rest........hopefully the owner will answer your questions!
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post #311 of 397 Old 09-13-2010, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainly View Post

what is the purpose of the risers/steps you installed in front of your screen? ive seen similar on several home theatre designs but never understood what it was, or its purpose.

May serve a purpose in a "real" theater used also as a live performance venue - but just for aesthetics in a home theater. Picky building inspectors might require them in some cases, if your stage is higher than 7 or 8" - mine is 8", my inspector raised an eyebrow and let it go.

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the print/floral pattern psycadelic designs in the carpet. why do lots of home theaters do this ?

Could be the throwback look - also in some cases, to break up the monotone look, since we often have black screen walls, black ceiling, black chairs - add a little pattern to break it up. Some prefer more wild color combos, others prefer more subdued.

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and lastly, are you sure your screen is gonna be big enough? i sit around 14-16 feet away from my screen and i have a 144" scope screen, and from 16 feet away, its too small.

Size is about preference; also, some people ascribe to THX or similar guidelines for viewing angle, which tend to be more on the conservative side. Also, most projectors are somewhat light challenged, so once you get too big, you're fighting against the projector's ability to give you enough light at a calibrated setting.

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or sit about 12 feet away. which would result in more eye fatigue, and be alot less fun to watch.

If the viewing angle is the same, and the screen is aligned vertically properly (not too high), I would think a bigger screen from further away would be identical in terms of eye strain to a smaller screen up close.

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alot of the old theaters had print to hide the pop stains and crud people disposed of on the floor

Mark you misspelled poop.
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post #312 of 397 Old 09-14-2010, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

May serve a purpose in a "real" theater used also as a live performance venue - but just for aesthetics in a home theater. Picky building inspectors might require them in some cases, if your stage is higher than 7 or 8" - mine is 8", my inspector raised an eyebrow and let it go..

"Picky building inspectors might require them"
why would they care about that?

regardless, i think ill leave that little detail out, it probably has appeal for some, but to me its a bit like roller bladers grabbing a hold of their skates when they get air on the half pipe...



Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

If the viewing angle is the same, and the screen is aligned vertically properly (not too high), I would think a bigger screen from further away would be identical in terms of eye strain to a smaller screen up close.


i still disagree though, it seems when i compare viewing my own screen to going to the theater, there is still something about it that you just cant match, just by making the viewing angle the same as in the big theater, i dont think its about viewing angle, it seems just more enhoyable being further away, not having to focus on something close, while still enjoying the nice big image..
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post #313 of 397 Old 09-20-2010, 05:05 PM - Thread Starter
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First, thanks for the compliment....

The stage was built for my 2 very artisitc little girls mainly. The steps give it a nice design versus just some square steps or no steps at all. It's really just a design preference. But it also creates a "barrier" to people going up and just touching the screen.

The patterned carpet is very plush, high-end carpet that simply matched the design style we were going for. Nothing else... It's quite elegant I think.

I used the THX ratios and I'm spot on in the front row at 12'. Perfect viewing angle at 36 degrees. If I went larger, the front row would have been way too close and caused eye fatigue. You can check out: http://www.winebase.com.au/audio/avscrns.htm - which has the calcs for scope screens.



Quote:
Originally Posted by mainly View Post

wow, looks cool, i have a few questions...


what is the purpose of the risers/steps you installed in front of your screen? ive seen similar on several home theatre designs but never understood what it was, or its purpose.

and noticed as well, as in other theaters the print/floral pattern psycadelic designs in the carpet. why do lots of home theaters do this ?

did comercial theaters once used to look like this or something?

and lastly, are you sure your screen is gonna be big enough? i sit around 14-16 feet away from my screen and i have a 144" scope screen, and from 16 feet away, its too small. to get the equivelant effect as in a real theater, id need to go to about a 160". or sit about 12 feet away. which would result in more eye fatigue, and be alot less fun to watch.

i think one of the biggest aspects about going to a comercial theater is the fact that the screen is so huge combined with the fact that your so far away, created a more more relaxed viewing experience, so to recreate that in your home to the greatest extent possible, you need to go as big as possible, and sit as far away as you can, while still maintaining the similar viewing angle.

not sure if anyone else would agree with this??


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post #314 of 397 Old 10-01-2010, 06:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, major design issue here...

I framed out the portal to include a 3/4" trim of MDF (I know it looks like I cut them short, but the sheetrock guy didn't do a good job around the portal so it varies in width and height from front to back - it will be covered with trim anyway) around it and I was originally going with the Anamorphic Research lens and it would've fit perfectly. Since I haven't heard anything good about those lens paired with the JVC RS25, Jason thought the Prismasonic would be perfect. Problem is the height of the Prismasonic is 8 3/4" and I only have 7 1/4" now after the MDF was installed. Even without the MDF "trim", I only have 8 3/4" top to bottom.

I could do the following:

1. not finish the inside of the portal - paint the exposed sheetrock and 2x4's black
2. try veneer
3. build a shelf in front of the projector portal to place the Prismasonic lens on
4. rip and replace the projector portal and reframe for about 9"
5. close the portal and cover with Bpapes back wall 4" OC703 panel that he's designing and mount the projector in the room on a projector mount (problem here is, I didn't frame out anything above the sheetrock to hold the mount - so not sure if I can even do this.)

Pictures:



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post #315 of 397 Old 10-01-2010, 07:23 AM
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Bummer Mark. If it were me, if the lens will fit within the portal with the MDf removed, I'd just lay on some drywall mud to finish it off a bit, sand and paint it black. Put some trim up around flush with the opening. Can't imagine anyone would ever notice.

You may want to wait until you get the lens in to make final decision just to see how it will fit.
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post #316 of 397 Old 10-01-2010, 07:31 AM
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Should be really easy to move the top of that opening up an inch or so.
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post #317 of 397 Old 10-01-2010, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
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Should be really easy to move the top of that opening up an inch or so.

I was thinking the same until I looked at the portal framing pics on page 2/3...quite a lot going on there and looks to be a PITA (for me at least) especially if back side is drywalled as well.
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post #318 of 397 Old 10-01-2010, 07:55 AM
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I would build a shelf and design a cool diffusor that incorporates the "shelf"

Maybe a skyline/bookshelf type diffusor that tapers back to the outsides and below, then maybe increases in size as it approaches the ceiling and that tapers out to match the sides. It would be very cool and functional at the same time ( seems like a superb spot for diffusion)

Seeing as your ceiling is black, you could do the entire thing and wrap black velvet around the blocks to hide it, or if the design is cool enough paint it the wall color to make a neat mosaic type design in the rear ceiling. The latter would be super simple, cut the blocks, attach, paint
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post #319 of 397 Old 10-01-2010, 10:03 AM
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How big is the ISCO 3? I kid, I kid.
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post #320 of 397 Old 10-01-2010, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for all the ideas.

I can't move the top plate up - Floyd is right, I had to put a header up above to support the sofft, so there is no way to move it up.

I like the diffusor idea - I'll keep working that one.

I could probably just leave all trim off and finish with GOM. I can drill the stand into the bottom 2x4 plate to hold it in place and build the shelf in the rear flush to the back. That seems like the most logical. I really like the Prosmasonic, so I'm going to pull the trigger and like Floyd said, wait until it gets here and then work out a solution.

Thanks again guys!
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post #321 of 397 Old 10-01-2010, 05:29 PM
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Hey Mark, was thinking about this a bit more and may have stumbled upon an idea allowing you to have your cake and eat it too...("Blind Squirrel Theory")

After looking at the Prismasonic website, it appear that the 8"+ dimension that Jason is quoting you has to be the bottom of the mounting plate to end of the support rods, as the lens assembly is under 5" from what they show. Unfortunately, Prismasonic doesn't give you a whole lot in the area of dimensions to work with. "Send me $1500+ for our anamorphic lens, but we're too lazy to link you to detailed dimensions". Sorry, that's a pet peeve of mine and I've had a couple of Bud Lights after work, so had to rant a bit.

So, why not just drill a couple of "relief holes" in the upper MDF which would allow you to insert the top of the rods into? Just let the lens housing float down to the bottom of the mount, angle the whole assembly to get the mounting rods into the upper holes you drilled, set everything vertical and drive some screws (or bolts or hex screws depending on clearance) through bottom mounting plate into the portal bottom 2x4?

If the 3/4" MDF doesn't give you enough clearance (although with a bigger diameter relief hole it should fit), just redo with 1/2" or something. Biggest factor though would be the diameter of the relief holes you drill into the upper MDF to accept the rods.

Hope that makes sense. That's what I'd do IF I KNEW FOR SURE WHAT THE ACTUAL DIMENSIONS WERE OF WHAT I WAS BUYING. Oops, sorry, continued rant.

This would allow you to follow your original plan.
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post #322 of 397 Old 10-01-2010, 06:36 PM
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Mark, I'm not quite seeing why you can't simply notch into the header an inch. If I looked at the correct framing picture the header looks wide enough to handle being notched. What exactly is it supporting?

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post #323 of 397 Old 10-01-2010, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

Hey Mark, was thinking about this a bit more and may have stumbled upon an idea allowing you to have your cake and eat it too...("Blind Squirrel Theory")

After looking at the Prismasonic website, it appear that the 8"+ dimension that Jason is quoting you has to be the bottom of the mounting plate to end of the support rods, as the lens assembly is under 5" from what they show. Unfortunately, Prismasonic doesn't give you a whole lot in the area of dimensions to work with. "Send me $1500+ for our anamorphic lens, but we're too lazy to link you to detailed dimensions". Sorry, that's a pet peeve of mine and I've had a couple of Bud Lights after work, so had to rant a bit.

So, why not just drill a couple of "relief holes" in the upper MDF which would allow you to insert the top of the rods into? Just let the lens housing float down to the bottom of the mount, angle the whole assembly to get the mounting rods into the upper holes you drilled, set everything vertical and drive some screws (or bolts or hex screws depending on clearance) through bottom mounting plate into the portal bottom 2x4?

If the 3/4" MDF doesn't give you enough clearance (although with a bigger diameter relief hole it should fit), just redo with 1/2" or something. Biggest factor though would be the diameter of the relief holes you drill into the upper MDF to accept the rods.

Hope that makes sense. That's what I'd do IF I KNEW FOR SURE WHAT THE ACTUAL DIMENSIONS WERE OF WHAT I WAS BUYING. Oops, sorry, continued rant.

This would allow you to follow your original plan.

Holy Macaroni! Nice!!!!!!!!!!

I didn't think of this. I thought of just routing out the dimensions of the stand on the bottom plate, but not two holes. That would be much easier.

Thanks so much!

Yes, I agree... The dimensions that they gave me originally - I should've checked more thoroughly - were for JUST THE LENS! A HUGE PET PEEVE OF MINE TOO! Especially since I got burned on the Specs from Berkline on the Academy's. I downloaded the Specs and it said 121.5" so I framed the riser and the stair to accomodate 121.5" easily. Then I noticed the other spec sheet they sent me listed 123.5" Both seem to accomodate the flair of the cup holders on each end, but they gave me two different dimensions and I couldn't get anyone to verify whether it's 123.25" or 121.5". They have now updated both spec sheets to show 123.5". What a pain....
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post #324 of 397 Old 10-03-2010, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Shoot... I just posted this on another thread, so I thought I post it here for posterity. First time I've added this all up and it now scares me.

Carpet: $3K
Acoustic Panels, FSK: $800
AV Equipment: $16K (Paradigm 100's with ADP 390's/CC-690) Onlyo Pre/Pro, Oppo BDP-83, Anthem Amps, 2 Velodyne DD-15's, Xbox360 and Wii)
Remote (URC MX-980): $500
Screen $2,800
Projector: $6K
Anamorphic Lens: $2K
Framing (lumber, screws, etc.): $1,500
Sheetrock (2 layers of 5/8 including the small lobby): $3K
HVAC: $1,400
Electrical Installation: $1,200 with GrafikEye purchase included ($600)
Paint (A Pro Sprayed the room - I hate painting): $800
Middle Atlantic Rack with Accessories (lacing bars, etc.): $800
Middle Atlantic Custom Faceplates: $600
Lighting: $425
GreenGlue, RSIC Clips and Channel: $1,200
Cabling (PELV Cable, Speaker, HDMI, XLR's): $500
GOM: $175
Linacoustic: $160
OC703 for Bass Traps + Grill Cloth from Joann's: $130
Insulation: ???? can't remember and the stack of receipts is so thick - I'm not looking.
Much, much, more.. I didn't even mention miscellaneous hardware trips, velcro, electrical plates, conduit, etc.

I'm over $40,000 and I still haven't added in 8 Chairs or Trim/Wainscoting.
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post #325 of 397 Old 10-04-2010, 09:52 AM
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Mark, I'm looking at the prismasonic lens too but just saw this announcement. Looks interesting...

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post #326 of 397 Old 10-07-2010, 07:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, after much hemming and hawing over the reflections that the "window box" created with the SMX ProCurv mounted INSIDE the box, I decided to rip and replace the false wall I built. For those that are thinking about doing a ProCurv inside a window box, the GOM that I used causes waaaaay too much reflection on the bottom and top of the shelf that the screen sits on.

On that note, I have now just created a minimalist false wall, like Big's and so many others. I merely mounted two 2x4's to the floor and ceiling using small blocks screwed to the floor and ceiling. Then I mounted the supplied mounting bars from SMX to the 2x4's. I'll have to mount two more 2x4's outside the inside ones to mount the GOM/Velvet frames to and potentially one on the bottom, since that is a long span for some 1x frames to cover. Not sure though. After talking with Ruben yesterday, he mentioned he mounted his ProCurv to a window box and really didn't like it since it it didn't accentuate the curve. Which I agree with him, while it it serves a purpose for pin cushioning, it is pretty darn cool. So I mounted it to show the curve better and I will merely put panels (not sure if I will go with GOM or Velvet) around the screen. I'm leaning towards GOM, since I will have the SUBS below the screen and I'm afraid it will make the velvet flutter.

Before Pictures:



After Pictures:





Interestingly enough, Ruben mentioned putting LED strips or rope light behind the screen to really accentuate the screen. I've done this with one of my plasmas in the house, but never thought about it that much. The SMX farme fits rope light perfectly in a channel around the screen. No need for mounting hardware. It just slides right into the channel. Not sure if I will do this, but it seemed cool... It lights up the speakers also, though causes a reflection off the Piano Gloss finish on the Velodyne Subs.
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post #327 of 397 Old 10-07-2010, 07:57 AM
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Wow--you didn't waste any time ripping out that screenwall. I will be curious to see how your fabric panels go back in there now that you have less base to attach them. Should look really nice when it is finished.

The room is terrific.
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post #328 of 397 Old 10-07-2010, 08:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dixon View Post

Wow--you didn't waste any time ripping out that screenwall. I will be curious to see how your fabric panels go back in there now that you have less base to attach them. Should look really nice when it is finished.

The room is terrific.

Thanks Dixon! It's coming together. I think the wainscoting will really tie everything together. Eventually. I'm going on 13 months...

I'm curious about the fabric panels also. I know that this is the right way to go about it, just haven't figured out the panels yet. The window box caused too many problems, so I am happy about going this route.

My, how we overengineer everything aroudn this hobby. Ruben's been awesome and I love the ProCurv. I really want to show it off, so ripping and replacing was a must!
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post #329 of 397 Old 10-07-2010, 08:35 AM
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Looks pretty sweet Mark! I guess I thought you were trying to keep your upper screen border snug to the ceiling? Maybe your viewing preference/screen position changed?

If I were planning your panels, I think I'd just put up two more vertical 2x4's at either end of the screen, with the 3.5" side facing outwards. 1.75" of it exposed outside of screen edge and 1.75" behind screen edge. You can build 2 floor to ceiling panels either side. That would do the sides but not sure what to suggest for the bottom/top to fill in the "curve". Maybe a series of smaller ones following it? If you can live with the screen higher then you'd only have to worry about the bottom right?

I'm sure someone out there with curved screen installation may have a better approach.
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post #330 of 397 Old 10-07-2010, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

Mark, I'm looking at the prismasonic lens too but just saw this announcement. Looks interesting...

I must have missed this post Moggie. Thanks for the heads up. I spoke with Jason and they will be taking pre-orders in a few weeks. It's more expensive than the HD5000R, but then again it's Cylindrical.

Also got on the pre-order for the new JVC Projector. Can't wait til Christmas!
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