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Old 01-19-2010, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by marklabelle870 View Post

Looking towards back wall:

Maybe I missed this somewhere in the thread, but what is the reason for the gap in between the drywall? Looking good, keep it up!
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown View Post

Maybe I missed this somewhere in the thread, but what is the reason for the gap in between the drywall? Looking good, keep it up!

There is no "reason" per se. The wall is likely a little over 8' so when you put two sheets of drywall sideways you will have a gap somewhere on the wall (bottom, middle or top). The easiest place to work is in the middle of the wall. You don't have to bend over or stand on a ladder.

Mike
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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We are coming down to the final decision on the design of the theater. I have decided to do wainscoting and crown and no columns (don't have enought width to really do what I want). On that note, I have come up with the following design board and wanted some thoughts?

Paprika is the Berkline color, all the stains are listed and the fabric is Mulberry.

I am waffling on the gold color for under the fabric panels and then the actual stain color.

All sconces will be oil rubbed bronze....

Which stain do you think looks best with the other fabric, paint, carpet and chair color?

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Old 01-24-2010, 08:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos View Post

There is no "reason" per se. The wall is likely a little over 8' so when you put two sheets of drywall sideways you will have a gap somewhere on the wall (bottom, middle or top). The easiest place to work is in the middle of the wall. You don't have to bend over or stand on a ladder.

Exactly...the back is a little over 8'. Nice deep basement. We had to lay the first layer vertical and the second is horizontal, so the second layer covers all the seams nicely. There is a small gap at the bottom, but that was sealed up with SilenSeal all the way around...
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:16 PM
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Mark,
"The WAF" had the following comments:

She thinks that the Antique Cherry stain would work best with the other colors. Thinks the warm cherry is too orange and that the mahogany blends in too much. Of course, what you're looking at in real life may have slightly different tones than what the computer displays.

FWIW....the other comment was about the lower portion of the wall, should be darker than the top....says it's a woman thing I can't wait for the color selection of mine...should be a spirited conversation
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Old 01-24-2010, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Drywall is finished. Forgot to post the pre-mudded versions. I still have to take pictures of the completed theater and lobby..., but here are some of the lobby after he got the 1/2" Drywall up.

Entering Lobby:



Rack and Theater Entrance:



Theater Entrance:



Right of Rack - Refrigerator and Cabinets will be here:

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Old 01-25-2010, 09:54 PM
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Mark-
just found your thread...looking like great progress. I'm not far in W Bloomfield and just starting planning for my HT. I've got other overall basement project to tidy up while planning the HT, but want to get it moving soon.

Mike
Started the build...Theater With A View
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Old 01-26-2010, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Mark-
just found your thread...looking like great progress. I'm not far in W Bloomfield and just starting planning for my HT. I've got other overall basement project to tidy up while planning the HT, but want to get it moving soon.

Thanks Mike! The drywaller just finished up today sanding and tonight I am putting in all my goodies. Grafikeye, Riser Lights, Riser, etc. Tomorrow morning (I took the day off - funeral/working on the theater) I will start the proscenium. Can't wait...

Baby #3 is about 9 weeks and counting, so I have to move fast. :-)

I plan on getting to the "shell complete" stage - proscenium, risers, all electrical (low voltage/CAT6 included), primer/ceiling painted, and false wall complete and then I'll put it on hold for a bit and welcome the new guy into the home. I can punch out the trim work, carpet, boxes for speakers on proscenium, PJ and screen, etc. over the next 7 months or so I hope. If it's ready by Fall that would be nice.

I have come to the conclusion, it takes 2x what you think... and then add another 6 months.
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Old 01-30-2010, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marklabelle870 View Post

So I went with Conduit. I ran the following today (and it sucked):

3/4" Smurfit to the front wall single gang LV for L/C/R speaker cable
3/4" Smurfit to the Master Sub single gang LV and from the Master to the Slave on the front wall to a single gang LV - daisy chained.

Smurfit Runs (looks like a mess, because it is):



Is this the blue conduit everyone seems to be using:

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...atalogId=10053

?? Thanks.

--Drew


My basement theater build thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1243820

Started: 2/20/10
Completed: 10/10/10
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew_V View Post

Is this the blue conduit everyone seems to be using:

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...atalogId=10053

?? Thanks.

Yes, the Carlon blue tubes is it.... Got mine at Lowe's. For HDMI or anything large, I used 2" Grey PVC piping.
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:11 AM
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Mark,

I think John is a wonderful name.



Seriously, doesn't it feel great when the drywall goes up? I think, for me, that was the first time it felt like I was truly making progress.

If not too late, when they are sanding, make sure you:
1. Turn off the house HVAC.
2. Get an el cheapo box fan and a supply of furnace filters. Tape them to the back and they will clear the air super fast. Just remember to change them out regularly.

John
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Old 01-31-2010, 12:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Well they are finally finished with the drywall. It's a mess... wish I would've seen John's post prior to them sanding. Oh well. I got everything cleaned up and started on the stage and finishing the riser, lights, etc.

1. Lobby door is hung - what a pain! I feel for ya Floyd.
2. Riser is complete and riser lights are wired. Except for one - I only bought 3 and I needed 4. I'm now waiting for the Affordable Lighting to send me the last one. What a pain!
3. Grafik Eye is in! And it works.
4. Installed lobby companion control. Those SeeTouch's are awesome... I can control the theater and the lobby. I used the Lutron PELV cable - if you are thinking of not using it and going another route - buy it and save the worry. It works perfectly.
5. All outlets to theater and lobby are wired and work!

I am waiting for the sconces and then we will finish up the sconces, 4" Halo's and the lobby ceiling light all at once. Oh yeah, need to wire up the rack also. I went with 2 double gangs with 4 - 20 amp outlets. Projector, Subs and Rack are each on their own 20 amp breaker. The lobby outlets are on their own, as well as the outlets in the theater. Lastly, the Grafik Eye is on its own also.

Oh yeah, one last thing - 68 bags of sand for the stage is annoying! Got about 20 downstairs and the rest is on the front porch.

Here are some pictures:

Lobby Door:



Inside Lobby:



Screen Wall:



Back Wall/Projector Portal:



Close up of Stage with 6 mil Poly "pockets" for Sand:



Sand, Sand, Sand:



Wired Riser Lights:





Wired Outlets for Berklines:



Lobby SeeTouch Control:



GrafikEye (Yes, we electrical taped the grounds - this was taken just before):

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Old 01-31-2010, 05:36 PM
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Man, nice progress Mark All that sand has to really suck....I've decided to go 1/2 stage and forget about it. Ending my stage at the screen and will sit stuff on the floor behind it.

I was all gung ho to stain THAT 6 panel pine door and didn't sand it very well. It turned out VERY bad. I have lots of very dark/splotchy areas. Will have to sand it down and try again. I thought I was good to go, and even used Minwax pre-stain treatment on it. It may have something to do with the wood as well but, lesson learned. Don't get in a hurry like me.

I can hear that freaking door downstairs right now as I type...just mocking me.
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Old 01-31-2010, 05:39 PM
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I see that you have some outlets on the riser for the recliners.

Do you need one outlet for each chair?

How many amps does each chair need?

Are they just motorized recliners, or do you have buttkickers added?

Thanks.

--Drew


My basement theater build thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1243820

Started: 2/20/10
Completed: 10/10/10
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew_V View Post

I see that you have some outlets on the riser for the recliners.

Do you need one outlet for each chair?

How many amps does each chair need?

Are they just motorized recliners, or do you have buttkickers added?

Thanks.

Yes, one outlet each chair - I'm going with the Berklines "Academy" 45032. Motorized - no Buttkickers.

I was assured that each chair was not going to draw that much. So I have the 8 chairs and all of the outlets on the same 20 amp breaker. I guess if someone wants to run an arc welder, vacuum, and move all the chairs at once, I might have an issue, but I should be good. I hope...
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by marklabelle870 View Post

Yes, one outlet each chair - I'm going with the Berklines "Academy" 45032. Motorized - no Buttkickers.

I was assured that each chair was not going to draw that much. So I have the 8 chairs and all of the outlets on the same 20 amp breaker. I guess if someone wants to run an arc welder, vacuum, and move all the chairs at once, I might have an issue, but I should be good. I hope...


Well, then technically you could have a 4-gang outlet box on your riser and handle all 4 chairs, right?

I guess I'll check with Berkline to see the current draw of the chairs. But it occurs to me that it would be a cleaner install with a centrally-located 4-gang box just behind the center two chairs. That's the option I might end up going with.

Thanks for the answers.

--Drew


My basement theater build thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1243820

Started: 2/20/10
Completed: 10/10/10
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Old 01-31-2010, 07:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew_V View Post

Well, then technically you could have a 4-gang outlet box on your riser and handle all 4 chairs, right?

I guess I'll check with Berkline to see the current draw of the chairs. But it occurs to me that it would be a cleaner install with a centrally-located 4-gang box just behind the center two chairs. That's the option I might end up going with.

Thanks for the answers.

Yes, that is correct. I have a double gang with 4 outlets on the riser and then another double gang with another 4 outlets on the face of the riser. That accomodates a plug for each chair.

I also added in an additional double gang with 4 outlets in the face of the riser for laptops, the Pronto TSU 9600 and whatever else might come my way. I put in a low voltage double gang with 1 HDMI keystone and 3 CAT 6 keystones for the Pronto and laptop connection so I could display the laptop.
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Old 02-06-2010, 07:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Well we finished the stage this week. I ended up using 30# Roofing felt, 3/4 ply tongue and groove and then roofing felt and then another 3/4 ply. "Like a rock" as GM would say... wait was that Ford or GM? Also wired up a sconce, just to see how it is all going to look. Quite happy with the way everything is coming together. I received bpape's questionnaire the other day, so we can start on the acoustics. Step to the lobby is next, then I have to seal up the riser after the HDMI cable comes in from Blue Jeans. I also have the last riser light coming in from Affordable. By next Wednesday, I should have the step in, the riser sealed up and then it's PAINT time.. then wainscoting ... then carpet.

Not sure if I want to build the false wall on top of the carpet and if I want to carpet straight back to the screen wall on the stage. Maybe I'll put up the false wall, paint it black, then have them come in and carpet around it. Do people have carpet behind their false wall? Guess I will go check out some pics....

Also, need to give credit where credit is due. I stole this idea from Ronnie Jackson.. I love this stage and now I love it in my theater! http://www.ronniejackson.com/theater/

Proscenium being framed and sand installed:



Steps being framed:



Proscenium Framed:



Proscenium Complete:



Sconce Installed:



Riser Lights:

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Old 02-06-2010, 08:05 AM
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Are you using pressure-treated wood for the riser and stage? It just looks like regular lumber from the pictures... Are you concerned about moisture/damage to the wood?

Also, did you "hard wire" your riser? That is, did you run electrical wire directly from the wall into the riser, or did you have some sort of wall outlet that the riser plugs into?

If you did hard wire it, do you have any sort of wall grommet or strain relief at the interface? I'm just curious as to how people route power from the wall into the riser.

Thanks.

--Drew


My basement theater build thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1243820

Started: 2/20/10
Completed: 10/10/10
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Old 02-06-2010, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew_V View Post

Are you using pressure-treated wood for the riser and stage? It just looks like regular lumber from the pictures... Are you concerned about moisture/damage to the wood?

Also, did you "hard wire" your riser? That is, did you run electrical wire directly from the wall into the riser, or did you have some sort of wall outlet that the riser plugs into?

If you did hard wire it, do you have any sort of wall grommet or strain relief at the interface? I'm just curious as to how people route power from the wall into the riser.

Thanks.

No PT for the stage or riser. I know you should, but here is my theory... and it's probably wrong. I put down a sheet of 1 mil poly and taped it to the concrete. I left it there for about a month and not a drop of moisture. Also, the whole basement is climatized and I won't be here longer than 10 years. Also, the way I am - this is HT 1.0 - HT 2.0 is coming I'm sure.. Maybe I will do it then. At least put down the Roofing Felt, which I was smart enough to use between the layers of ply, but too dumb to put it on the floor before I started framing. Another thing.. I have had builders come in and out of this house while this is going on. Just friends, colleagues, etc... NO ONE has said it will be an issue. Who knows.. but I'm sure rot will happen at some point, just whether it's within the 50 years I'll be here or the house will be standing.

I hard wired the riser from the GrafikEye. The 12/2 comes right from the wall/drywall into the riser... not sure there is an issue there. My electrician said that it's fine. I'll see if I have a picture of the 12/2 coming into the riser.
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Old 02-06-2010, 08:23 AM
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Wait, the white wires are not grounds, Those are neutral and carry some current to the best of my knowledge to close the circuit. I am no electrician, but I would say this is very bad and ought to be fixed. The last thing you want is to have an electrical catastrophe resulting from suspect wiring. It is not worth the risk, I recommend making it right. Sure it is a lot of wires in a small box, but I dont think you want to be taking short cuts on the electrical.

Maybe someone with real experience here can chime in, but from what I know, this is a bad idea...
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Old 02-06-2010, 08:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Wait, the white wires are not grounds, Those are neutral and carry some current to the best of my knowledge to close the circuit. I am no electrician, but I would say this is very bad and ought to be fixed. The last thing you want is to have an electrical catastrophe resulting from suspect wiring. It is not worth the risk, I recommend making it right. Sure it is a lot of wires in a small box, but I dont think you want to be taking short cuts on the electrical.

Maybe someone with real experience here can chime in, but from what I know, this is a bad idea...

Yes, those are neutral and wired to the neutral on the GE. I'm not sure what you are saying. An electrician wired it up...

Also, that is the recommended - everywhere on here - Raco extra deep masonry box, so I'm not sure about it being small. It is a lot of wires, but nonetheless not too small.
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Old 02-06-2010, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marklabelle870 View Post

Yes, those are neutral and wired to the neutral on the GE. I'm not sure what you are saying. An electrician wired it up...

Also, that is the recommended - everywhere on here - the Raco extra deep masonry box, so I'm not sure about it being small.

wow, that is crazy to me. like I said, I am no electrician, but I would think having wires electrical taped together is a no no, that is why they make those wire nuts. If he says it is good and it passes inspection like that fine, but when I saw it, it didnt look right.

Also, I was not saying you had the wrong box, I was just commenting that that is a lot of wires in a small box and it takes some finagling to get it all in there, but I am yet to read that electrical tape is the answer. Instead some hav recommended a second box or because the limit on wires in a single large wire nut, chaining the neutral wires together. I did not realize tristing the wires together and taping them was to code. If it is, so be as I am not an electrician.
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Old 02-06-2010, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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wow, that is crazy to me. like I said, I am no electrician, but I would think having wires electrical taped together is a no no, that is why they make those wire nuts. If he says it is good and it passes inspection like that fine, but when I saw it, it didnt look right.

Also, I was not saying you had the wrong box, I was just commenting that that is a lot of wires in a small box and it takes some finagling to get it all in there, but I am yet to read that electrical tape is the answer. Instead some hav recommended a second box or because the limit on wires in a single large wire nut, chaining the neutral wires together. I did not realize tristing the wires together and taping them was to code. If it is, so be as I am not an electrician.

Glad you brought it up... Maybe he's a sh**ty electrician. :-) I'm going to check and see if this is o.k. prior to inspection with someone else. Some use pigtails with 18 gauge wire to extend, cap and then tape, so you're right, not sure... Albeit, if you ever open a box that has pigtails installed a while ago, sometimes you see scald marks where the pigtails came loose a little. I think Pigtails are much more dangerous.. But again.. I hate electrical.

Thanks for bringing it up...

I hate electrical and gas, so I don't touch it.
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:14 AM
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Not sure if you have a 4 or 6 zone GE...if 4 then you would need a wire nut capable of handling 6 12 ga neutrals (4 for zones, 1 main from panel, 1 pigtail to unit) or capable of 8 if 6 zone. I have a 4 zone GE and found a gray wire nut (Ideal Electric) that will handle 6 12 ga wires, and wired mine accordingly using that. I have not seen a wire nut capable of 8 12 ga wires, so not sure how that should be wired to meet code (I'm not licensed).

I would agree with smakovits that just twisting those together seems a bit squirrely (at least use a big wire crimp). If you only have a need for a 4 zone GE (or 6 neutrals) I'd certainly feel better about using the correct wire nut vs. how the electrician approached it. JMHO

BTW...stage looks great

Did I see that you were getting the Roscoe paint in that thread? Interested in hearing your review of it if so.
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Not sure if you have a 4 or 6 zone GE...if 4 then you would need a wire nut capable of handling 6 12 ga neutrals (4 for zones, 1 main from panel, 1 pigtail to unit) or capable of 8 if 6 zone. I have a 4 zone GE and found a gray wire nut (Ideal Electric) that will handle 6 12 ga wires, and wired mine accordingly using that. I have not seen a wire nut capable of 8 12 ga wires, so not sure how that should be wired to meet code (I'm not licensed).

I would agree with smakovits that just twisting those together seems a bit squirrely (at least use a big wire crimp). If you only have a need for a 4 zone GE (or 6 neutrals) I'd certainly feel better about using the correct wire nut vs. how the electrician approached it. JMHO

BTW...stage looks great

Did I see that you were getting the Roscoe paint in that thread? Interested in hearing your review of it if so.

Thanks Floyd.. I love the stage... Looks awesome.. Can't wait until it's carpeted. I was going to go with a plain straight across stage, but this wasn't that bad or complicated, so I am so glad I did. My daughter and wife love it too.

I have 4 zone, so maybe I'll have him put in a wire nut. He just said that you can use a wire nut, but since they are neutral and 12 ga. then it wouldn't be a problem. Something about "we should read Volkopf's Law of Voltage" or something.. Not sure what that was all about..

I'll have him put a nut on it.. He said he didn't mind. Everything else seems fine... He also said worse would be using pigtails. Much more dangerous and a chance of loosening up.

Yes, I bought some of the Roscoe.. came in about a week ago. I'm having a painter some in and spray the ceiling, so I'll let you know how it goes. I have a sprayer, but got spooked when I heard about some of the people ticked off about the ease of use. Professional painting is always best... I hate painting too.

I guess when I think of it - I hate electrical, gas AND painting.
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by marklabelle870 View Post

He also said worse would be using pigtails. Much more dangerous and a chance of loosening up.

LOL...maybe I should go back and redo mine to what he did, now with the pigtail comment in mind

A post on the electrical forum I frequent may be in order (or not).
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:27 PM
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Mark,
Quote from a moderator on the electrical forum I frequent (other replies were similar):
"What a sloppy mess. Assuming this is all normal 120V wiring, that big twist of white wires needs to be cut back so only about a half inch of bare copper is exposed. Then it must be securely fastened with a listed pressure connector (e.g. wire nut of suitable size for all those #12 wires). Taping could be done if there is no longer 6" of wire left in the box, but he shouldn't have removed that much white insulation if so. I wonder what the credentials of that "electrician" are...

Are all these wires in a metal box? If so, was a bare grounding wire connected to the metal box via a green screw or grounding clip? The bare grounding wires also need a wire nut, but they don't have to be insulated so that big twist can be as long as you want."

Just trying to help out here to make sure you have good solid wiring in place, just as I would want.
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Old 02-07-2010, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

Mark,
Quote from a moderator on the electrical forum I frequent (other replies were similar):
"What a sloppy mess. Assuming this is all normal 120V wiring, that big twist of white wires needs to be cut back so only about a half inch of bare copper is exposed. Then it must be securely fastened with a listed pressure connector (e.g. wire nut of suitable size for all those #12 wires). Taping could be done if there is no longer 6" of wire left in the box, but he shouldn't have removed that much white insulation if so. I wonder what the credentials of that "electrician" are...

Are all these wires in a metal box? If so, was a bare grounding wire connected to the metal box via a green screw or grounding clip? The bare grounding wires also need a wire nut, but they don't have to be insulated so that big twist can be as long as you want."

Just trying to help out here to make sure you have good solid wiring in place, just as I would want.


Good to know.. Thanks Floyd. I am having him come back and rewire.
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

Mark,
Quote from a moderator on the electrical forum I frequent (other replies were similar):
"Then it must be securely fastened with a listed pressure connector (e.g. wire nut of suitable size for all those #12 wires). Taping could be done if there is no longer 6" of wire left in the box...
Are all these wires in a metal box? If so, was a bare grounding wire

Just trying to help out here to make sure you have good solid wiring in place, just as I would want.

Hey Floyd, had him fix the GE last night. Everything looks good and I slept like a baby.

All the sconces, stage lights and riser lights are now in and working. On to carpet, paint and putting the theater door in...

Also, waiting on Bpape (Bryan) to finish up the recommendations on acoustics.

Later...
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