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post #721 of 1245 Old 11-05-2012, 03:28 PM - Thread Starter
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That would be an option. If anyone has priced that out, would you mind sharing?
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post #722 of 1245 Old 11-05-2012, 03:40 PM
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I think FJP would be too soft for a threshold. It is easily damaged.

Typical is an oak threshold, which IIRC is 3-1/2" wide.

You could also do an aluminum threshold, which comes in various widths and heights.. quickly googling I see they have a 6" wide one.

With a wood subfloor, I've seen carpet folded under itself to form a nice edge, butted up to the threshold, then it's held in place with staples through the top of the carpet into the floor

A piece of marble would also make a nice threshold. A tile store usually stocks them in different colors and profiles (not just the carerra you see at HD). Alternatively you could have one custom made.. or buy a scrap and try it yourself.

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post #723 of 1245 Old 11-05-2012, 04:00 PM
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I ended up using one of these in my room.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_197792-74035-G40343658DHSX1L_0__?productId=3556446

They cut it to the correct length for me at Lowes since I don't have a wet saw. I thought about shopping around at a tile store but when I saw this for $15 I decided that it wasn't worth the hassle so I just picked it up. It looks great and I've been very happy with it.

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post #724 of 1245 Old 11-05-2012, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
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I ended up using one of these in my room.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_197792-74035-G40343658DHSX1L_0__?productId=3556446
They cut it to the correct length for me at Lowes since I don't have a wet saw. I thought about shopping around at a tile store but when I saw this for $15 I decided that it wasn't worth the hassle so I just picked it up. It looks great and I've been very happy with it.

That's a nice find. I didn't realize the big box stores were stocking the other colors. That would have my vote.
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post #725 of 1245 Old 11-05-2012, 04:24 PM - Thread Starter
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That would be perfect if it was a little wider. I need something 6-1/2" wide. I'll see if they have anything wider next time I'm there.
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post #726 of 1245 Old 11-05-2012, 04:38 PM
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I don't remember seeing anything wider, but it's definitely worth a look.

Keep in mind that the carpet installers will be able to fill in that small gap if you go with the 4" threshold. As long as your automatic door bottom ends up on the threshold then you'll be fine with soundproofing. My threshold doesn't go all the way to the wall but it looks fine with the carpet installed.

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post #727 of 1245 Old 11-05-2012, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I plan on talking to them about the threshold when they come to measure for carpet. I'm really not sure what height I need so they should be able to help in that regard based on the carpet and pad I select.

FYI - I didn't implement soundproofing measures in my build, so I won't be using an automatic door seal.
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post #728 of 1245 Old 11-05-2012, 05:13 PM
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FYI - I didn't implement soundproofing measures in my build, so I won't be using an automatic door seal.

Oops...... I knew that but just got caught up in the moment and forgot. I guess I'm just used to talking about it. smile.gif

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post #729 of 1245 Old 11-08-2012, 08:27 PM
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I'm guessing your method for panels might suite me as well, only thing different is I am going 2" on front and sides and 4" on rear wall, perhaps 1" furring and 1" panels on front and sides and 2" furring and 2" panels on rear wall.

With that weight, I am not sure ball and sockets will suffice, might have to use BIG's method and use liquid nails and finishing nails shot through the fabric.

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post #730 of 1245 Old 11-08-2012, 09:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Is your front wall a false wall? If so, the 2" treatments will be behind the screen. The panels that hang on the false wall will be empty so weight is not an issue.

What kind of treatments are you using on the side walls? Are they 1 piece that is 2" thick or 2 layers of 1" material. Looking at what I did, I could see where it would be pretty easy to place a 1" treatment panel between your 1" deep furring strips and then place a 2nd 1" treatment inside the panel so once the panel is attached to the wall, you get your 2". Probably more expensive this way. I used 1" of Linacoustic on my side walls, but since I ordered a 100' roll, I probably have enough left over where I could have done two 1" layers.

For the rear wall, I framed a false wall 1/2" off the face of the existing wall, to give me a 4" deep cavity that I could fill with 2 layers of 2" treatments. In the case of the back wall, the framing acted as the furring strips, giving me a place to put the ball portion of the panel connector. The actual panels that go on the rear wall are empty, like the ones that hang on the screen wall. They are also 1" thick like all the other panels. I don't think you need to go with 2" thick panels if you do something similar.

Here's what I did for the back wall.
IMG_0698.jpg
IMG_0695.jpg
IMG_0696.jpg
IMG_0710.jpg
IMG_0714.jpg

1st layer of 2" insulation board
IMG_0715.jpg
IMG_0716.jpg

2nd layer of 2" insulation board with FSK facing. Notice the 4" of treatments all sit within the framed "wall". The standard 1" thick panels just sit on top of all this.
IMG_0729.jpg

1" thick panels secured to framing (panels are empty)
IMG_0942.jpg
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post #731 of 1245 Old 11-08-2012, 09:22 PM
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I will be using 2" OC703 for everything. I have 384 sq ft of the stuff.

Front wall will use adhesive and screws with fender washers or something.

So your rear wall will actually be 5 inches?

Might be easiest to build what you did for rear wall for all my walls, 2x4 for rear(actual 1.5x3.5) and half inch gap and rip a 2x4's to a 2x2's for sides walls, but then to add a 1" frame on top would decrease my dimensions further and don't know if i want to spare another inch!!

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post #732 of 1245 Old 11-08-2012, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdika17 View Post

I'm guessing your method for panels might suite me as well, only thing different is I am going 2" on front and sides and 4" on rear wall, perhaps 1" furring and 1" panels on front and sides and 2" furring and 2" panels on rear wall.
With that weight, I am not sure ball and sockets will suffice, might have to use BIG's method and use liquid nails and finishing nails shot through the fabric.

Or use 1" panels with 3" furring
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post #733 of 1245 Old 11-08-2012, 09:35 PM - Thread Starter
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So the plan on the side wall is to place the 2" treatment inside the 1" panel? The remaining 1" that sticks out proud of the panel will slide into the space created by the 1" furring? You'll need to be careful when cutting/placing your furring strips to make sure that the entire length will be hidden behind the panel frame. Any portion that sticks out past the frame will prevent your treatment from sliding in.

Yes, the back wall is actually 5" thick (1/2" gap + 3-1/2" of framing + 1" fabric panel). That's one reason I built an 8' deep riser. I knew I was going to lose a lot after the panels were up.

EDIT: I've already removed a few of my panels for various reasons. They don't pull straight off the wall. You usually have to grab one end and as you pull that end away from the wall, the rest of the sockets release one at a time. I think that would be difficult to do if there was 1" of rigid insulation board sticking out of the panel and tucked into the furring. I could see it getting hung up unless the edge on the insulation was tapered back or the opening between the furring strips was sufficiently larger than the opening in the actual panel. Maybe it won't be a problem, but something you might want to mock up early on.
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post #734 of 1245 Old 11-08-2012, 09:44 PM
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Yah I'm only building a 7' riser then have 9" deep column then 4" of treatments, then need to still have room for outlets in column. Then have room on riser for fully recline fusion escapes plus a few inches.




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post #735 of 1245 Old 11-08-2012, 09:48 PM - Thread Starter
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I just edited my previous post. Not sure if that will be a problem or not.
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post #736 of 1245 Old 11-08-2012, 09:56 PM
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Definitely need to do a few mock ups to see what's gonna work.


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post #737 of 1245 Old 11-11-2012, 06:53 AM - Thread Starter
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I've started researching door hardware. I don't want to use the same door hardware that was used in the rest of the house because I want the theater entry to be a little different/unique. I'm actually considering an entry handle typically found on an exterior entry door and just not installing the deadbolt hardware.

The door (now painted black)
IMG_0686.jpg
IMG_0685.jpg

The hardware (not necessarily this style or finish, but the combination of a handle on the outside and a knob on the inside)
7.jpg

I'm assuming this style can be installed without the deadbolt. Anyone know if they can be purchased without the deadbolt? Will the "handle" style look odd on an interior door?
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post #738 of 1245 Old 11-11-2012, 07:24 AM
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You do not need to install the deadbolt to make the handle portion functional, you just would not be able to lock the door (not a big deal) and it would be regarded as what is called a "passage" door set.

As to the style, I think you have a fairly modern look with clean lines with all of those panels. The handle you show above seems very traditional to me and wouldn't be my first choice if looking to line up the inside of your theater with the external handle set.

Do you plan to do anything different with the door on the outside of the room? Does this two-panel door you bought match the other interior doors in the house? If so, you may just want to get a similar internal knob and line it up with a different knob inside the theater. The other option is to go balls-out and really dress up the outside theater door to really make it look different. Just changing the handle seems like a half-measure for what really could be done to dress it up and make it look like you are about to enter a very special room.
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post #739 of 1245 Old 11-11-2012, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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I agree. That particular style of hardware is not modern enough but I couldn't find a picture of one in the handle/knob combo that I liked.

The other interior doors are all 6-panel. I chose a 2-panel for the theater to make it a little different and I also liked that the top panel had an arch. We have quite a few arches in the house, including the one I built right next to the theater door as an entrance to the media closet.

I would like to do something on the game room side besides just traditional door casing. I just don't have any good ideas at the moment. Nothing too elaborate, but something that dresses it up and makes it stand out. Because the door opens into the game room instead of the theater, I lose some of the visual interest you get by the door being recessed in the jamb. I'm afraid it will look rather boring if I just slap up some casing and call it a day.

I will Google "balls-out theater doors" and see what I can find for inspiration.wink.gif
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post #740 of 1245 Old 11-11-2012, 08:26 AM
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Sorry - didn't see your comment on the handle style until now - I guess I was distracted by the pictures....

If you haven't already, DON'T Google "Balls Out Home Theater Doors". Let's just say the images didn't show balls out home theater doors....eek.gifeek.gifeek.gif

You can easily pack out the exterior of that door with flat stock and molding build-ups to recess the door, but just remember if you pack out around the door too much you will limit the degree to which it can open if you pack it out too much and don't use a swing-away hinge.

Any updates on the panels?
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post #741 of 1245 Old 11-11-2012, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Any updates on the panels?

Panels are 80% done. Still have some to fabricate, but will do that after carpet. Pics with them on the wall are a few pages back, but I have them off the wall at the moment. Currently respraying the ceiling with a different color. Hopefully, this new color will match the fabric a little better. The black speaker fabric came in on Friday, so while the panels are down, I'm going to cover the acoustic treatments on the back wall to keep them from showing through the fabric. I also gave all the trim another coat of paint.

Jeff with Night Sky Murals will be here next week or the week after, so I had to make sure the ceiling was ready.
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post #742 of 1245 Old 11-11-2012, 08:51 PM - Thread Starter
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3M reports that they will meet quarterly earnings after a sharp increase in sales of their popular blue painter's tape. Sales have been unexpectedly high in the Houston market, despite the struggling economy.

Ceiling Prep: Take 2
IMG_1147.jpg

Before taking down all of the fabric panels for safe keeping, I tested the new color in the corner of the ceiling and it seemed to be a good match. But guess what? It doesn't matter, because I'm not doing this a 3rd time.

New paint is drying overnight. I'll throw a few panels back on the wall tomorrow to see how things look.
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post #743 of 1245 Old 11-11-2012, 08:56 PM
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What a total PITA, but very nice work as always.
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post #744 of 1245 Old 11-12-2012, 10:07 AM
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Spaceman you should offer to rent out the room to Showtime to film a 'Dexter' episode... Might pay for a few rolls of tape... biggrin.gif

I guess the good news is that you probably saved Jeff some time by already masking the whole area for him, too!

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post #745 of 1245 Old 11-12-2012, 10:16 AM
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Soldier on buddy! A lot of work to remask and repaint the ceiling, but I'm sure you'll be much happier getting it done if it was bugging you.
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post #746 of 1245 Old 11-12-2012, 10:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

What a total PITA, but very nice work as always.

Thanks TMcG.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

I guess the good news is that you probably saved Jeff some time by already masking the whole area for him, too!

Not really. I took it all down this morning mad.gif I doubt he needs much besides a few drop cloths on the floor. He's working with tiny little brushes.

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Soldier on buddy! A lot of work to remask and repaint the ceiling, but I'm sure you'll be much happier getting it done if it was bugging you.

It was bugging me, so I'm glad I redid it. Nobody else would have noticed, but I'll sleep better at night. The new color is so close to the old one I had trouble sometimes keeping track of the spray pattern, particularly when painting in the shadows of the coffers. As usual, prep took longer than the actual painting, but it came out fairly well. Moving onto bigger and better things...
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post #747 of 1245 Old 11-12-2012, 10:37 AM
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Jeff with Night Sky Murals will be here next week or the week after, so I had to make sure the ceiling was ready.
I had never heard of Night Sky Murals before reading your post. So, I took a trip to his website. What incredible work he does. I cannot wait to see what he does for your project.
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post #748 of 1245 Old 11-12-2012, 10:58 AM - Thread Starter
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He's provided star ceilings for a number of AVS builds. I think Mario's Cinemar Home Theater is the most recent.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1208912/the-cinemar-home-theater-construction-thread/2250#post_22305839
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post #749 of 1245 Old 11-12-2012, 01:57 PM
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Possibly a scrap of granite or marble?

I used a piece of scrap granite that is typically used as kitchen counter back splash. I bought it from a kitchen and bath tile company. It cost me about $7 for the scrap of granite and then another $35 to have a bevel edge cut and polished.

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post #750 of 1245 Old 11-12-2012, 02:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. That's the direction I'm leaning. I've got a carpet guy coming tomorrow and will see what he recommends.
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