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post #61 of 1237 Old 02-06-2012, 06:09 PM
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I thought Berklines went out of business a while back. I tried ordering some from Theaterseatstore.com and that's what they told me, and they sold their designs to Lane's.
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post #62 of 1237 Old 02-06-2012, 07:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I thought so too, but saw plenty on the Stargate website. Probably worth a phone call to confirm availability if interested.

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post #63 of 1237 Old 02-07-2012, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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More framing photos. I know...they aren't sexy, but it's all I've got.

From screen wall towards back wall


Perimeter soffit


From back wall towards screen


Perimeter soffit


Opening for rack and HVAC return




Opening for new entry door


New entry door (left) and entry to media closet (right) (view from game room)


New entry to media closet (finished framing around flex ducts)


From media closet to game room


Next order of business is finishing the bottom supports on the left soffit and then tackling the curved soffit above the screen. I think I may order the ELCO recessed lights as well so they will be here when I'm ready to start electrical.

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post #64 of 1237 Old 02-09-2012, 09:07 AM - Thread Starter
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I'd like to begin framing up my HVAC registers in the bottom of my soffit. Before doing so, does anyone see any major problems with the proposed locations.

I'll have a total of 4 supply registers, 2 in the bottom of the right soffit and 2 in the bottom of the left soffit. My return is located down low at about the midpoint on the left wall (top wall in pic). I'm not thrilled about the return location as the register will be right in the middle of a fabric panel. Would putting it in the rear soffit be a bad idea? It would help pull hot air away from the pj but would also pull all of the dust particles in the rest of the room towards the pj. Thoughts?

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post #65 of 1237 Old 02-09-2012, 10:49 AM
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I thought it was always best practice to have the return mounted high on the wall or soffit since hot air rises? From what I have seen on here most have the supplies up front by the screen and the returns in the back behind viewers. That way the air is pulled towards the viewer and not blown directly on them.


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post #66 of 1237 Old 02-10-2012, 06:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Worked on the curved soffit in the front of the room today. Lots of 2x2s, some 1/2" plywood, a few screws and my laser level.

Framing before plywood




Start of plywood













Right about now, I'm wishing I just bought the big bucket of screws at HD instead of making numerous trips for 1lb & 5lb boxes. I've used almost 17lbs in the walls & ceiling. I still have my stage & riser to do, so I'll probably grab a 25lb bucket.

I ordered my recessed lights last night from USALight. Almost 1/2 what I would have paid at Lowe's.
http://www.usalight.com/4-Universal-...rx-104icat.htm
http://www.usalight.com/4-Adjustable...-p/tb403bk.htm
http://www.usalight.com/4-Stepped-Ba.../tb401p-bk.htm

I should be ready to start electrical by the time they get here.

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post #67 of 1237 Old 02-10-2012, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post


Right about now, I'm wishing I just bought the big bucket of screws at HD instead of making numerous trips for 1lb & 5lb boxes. I've used almost 17lbs in the walls & ceiling. I still have my stage & riser to do, so I'll probably grab a 20lb bucket.

The 1 lb boxes are $6/lb, the 5 lb boxes are $4.5/lb and the 25 lb buckets are $2/lb. It definitely makes sense to just buy the buckets at the start of a project like this. Drywall supply companies also have good deals on screws - much better than Home Depot.

Really nice work on the framing. Looks like a very clean job. Subscribed to your thread and looking forward to your progress.


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post #68 of 1237 Old 02-10-2012, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Stockmonkey. I really don't have any construction experience so I'm just trying to take my time, and plan, plan, plan. Everything gets done on the computer first and I still end up doing some things twice. Fortunately, with limited skills, it doesn't take much to feel a sense of accomplishment. When things actually come out level, I get a little giddy. Frankly, I'll just be happy if I finish this project and the ceiling doesn't fall down and I walk away with all 10 of my fingers.

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post #69 of 1237 Old 02-12-2012, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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My coffered ceiling has 6 recessed areas. I'll be placing an outlet in the corner of each recess for rope lighting and daisy-chaining all of the outlets to a dimmer.

The original plan was to use (6) single receptacles for each section of rope light


...but for a few bucks more, I could install (6) duplex receptacles


I'm not sure what else I would need to plug in up in the ceiling, but having the flexibilty might be nice. Are there codes or common practices that make one choice better than the other?

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post #70 of 1237 Old 02-12-2012, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I really don't have any construction experience so I'm just trying to take my time, and plan, plan, plan.

Could have fooled me! Looks better than the "pro" framing on most work I've seen in Houston

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

My coffered ceiling has 6 recessed areas. I'll be placing an outlet in the corner of each recess for rope lighting and daisy-chaining all of the outlets to a dimmer.

I'm not sure what else I would need to plug in up in the ceiling, but having the flexibilty might be nice. Are there codes or common practices that make one choice better than the other?

Since they're the same size the duplex may give you more flexibility in getting the cord to sit flat. I'd install those horizontally so you've got the best chance of them not being visible. And of course paint them to match the wall...

Jeff


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post #71 of 1237 Old 02-12-2012, 01:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Could have fooled me! Looks better than the "pro" framing on most work I've seen in Houston



Since they're the same size the duplex may give you more flexibility in getting the cord to sit flat. I'd install those horizontally so you've got the best chance of them not being visible. And of course paint them to match the wall...

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. It scares me every time I go in the attic, seeing some of the framing my builder did. Of course, it probably took them 1 week to frame the entire 2nd floor where it takes me 1 week to frame a soffit. My OCD tendencies would prevent me from ever becoming a contractor, at least one who would make any money.

Horizontal is the plan. I still haven't detailed my light tray, but I should definitely be able to hide them in the horizontal position.

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post #72 of 1237 Old 02-14-2012, 12:20 PM - Thread Starter
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I need to make the necessary framing/electrical provisions for the projector. Am I correct that if I plan to zoom between 16:9 and 2.35:1 on a 16:9 screen, the lens needs to be lined up exactly with the top of the screen, i.e. no vertical lens shift allowed? If so, the projector will sit fairly low relative to the top of the riser. As you can see below, I think the only place I can put the projector is below the rear soffit. Any further forward and people would be banging their heads on it as they get in and out of the rear seats.



I can't really move the screen any higher. My viewing angle is already at 18 degrees, slightly more than the maximum recommended angle of 15 degrees. Does anyone see a problem with where I show the pj? One concern I have is the heat and fan noise generated so close to the heads of back row viewers. I haven't researched them yet, but I'll be looking at ones in the $3-4K range. I'm assuming most can handle a 16' throw on a 100" screen.

I'm not sure the next step up in my ceiling (9' height) is wide enough for the projector anyway, even if I could mount it higher than the top of the screen. I'd still have to let it hang down below the lower soffit, just maybe not as much as currently shown. Perhaps where I have it is my only placement option.

Below is a picture of the rear soffit. Bottom is at 7'-10" (relative to main floor, not riser). It steps up to 9' and then the recessed areas each step up to 10'. I could make some adjustments back there if I need to if the proposed projector placement looks problematic. Any thoughts?

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post #73 of 1237 Old 02-15-2012, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
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UPS & FedEX should be busy over the next day or two delivering various electrical orders. I have can lights coming today, followed by receptacles, face plates and other various goodies.

Before starting electrical, I had the electricians come out this morning and run (2) 20A circuits to the theater. One will be for the equipment rack. The other will be for both lights and outlets. The original plan was to add (1) 20A circuit for the equip and (1) 15A for the new lights. I was going to keep the outlets on their existing 15A circuit, which is shared with the adjacent game room. The electrician recommended separating the game room outlets from the theater outlets and simply put all theater lights and outlets on a 20A circuit and let the existing 15A circuit serve the game room only. While it would have been nice to have the lights stay on if the outlets trip, I'm ok with this configuration. Considering the original layout had both theater and game room lights and plugs on just 1 circuit, it's still an improvement.

Before setting an outlet for the projector, I'd like to know if my proposed pj location looks ok to everyone (see post above).

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post #74 of 1237 Old 02-15-2012, 08:49 AM
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Just curious as how you measure the viewing angle? I have no idea how to do that, it is probably an important thing to know, lol.

-Sean
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post #75 of 1237 Old 02-15-2012, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Before starting electrical, I had the electricians come out this morning and run (2) 20A circuits to the theater. One will be for the equipment rack. The other will be for both lights and outlets.

I did the same thing, but I wish i had put a few outlets on the 'rack' circuit. With all the adjustments to the lighting/installation, it would have made it much easier to plug in temp lights in the room when the 'lighting' circuit was off. In hindsight, I sort of had that because of the PowerBridge (didn't think of that until now) which also connected the front wall outets...

(and every time I see those ceiling pictures I think I've somehow clicked on my build thread instead... )

Jeff


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post #76 of 1237 Old 02-15-2012, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 230-SEAN View Post

Just curious as how you measure the viewing angle? I have no idea how to do that, it is probably an important thing to know, lol.

-Sean

This is what I have used for measuring viewing angle:
http://myhometheater.homestead.com/v...alculator.html


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post #77 of 1237 Old 02-15-2012, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 230-SEAN View Post

Just curious as how you measure the viewing angle? I have no idea how to do that, it is probably an important thing to know, lol.

-Sean

AutoCAD did it for me. Someone that did better in trigonometry is going to have to weigh in.

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post #78 of 1237 Old 02-15-2012, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

I did the same thing, but I wish i had put a few outlets on the 'rack' circuit. With all the adjustments to the lighting/installation, it would have made it much easier to plug in temp lights in the room when the 'lighting' circuit was off. In hindsight, I sort of had that because of the PowerBridge (didn't think of that until now) which also connected the front wall outets...

(and every time I see those ceiling pictures I think I've somehow clicked on my build thread instead... )

Jeff

You should be confused. It's YOUR ceiling in MY room.

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post #79 of 1237 Old 02-15-2012, 02:26 PM - Thread Starter
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What is the preferred way to secure romex? Hard staples and a hammer or one of these?
http://www.amazon.com/Arrow-Wire-Cab...ef=pd_sim_hi_3
It sounds like many of the staplers aren't able to fully seat a staple so you have to go back and pound them in anyway. I didn't get a chance to see how the electricians did it today, but it sounded like they were using a hammer. I'll have quite a bit to do over the next few days and am interested in the easiest way.

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post #80 of 1237 Old 02-15-2012, 02:59 PM
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Staples and a hammer. That way your not tied to one certain size staple. There are different sizes for different wires.
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post #81 of 1237 Old 02-15-2012, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 230-SEAN View Post

Just curious as how you measure the viewing angle? I have no idea how to do that, it is probably an important thing to know, lol.

-Sean

You can use trigonometry to calculate the viewing angle. Measure the vertical distance from your eyes to the top of the screen. Then measure the horizontal distance from your eyes to the surface of the screen. This gives you a right triangle with these two distances as the legs. To find the angle you use the inverse tangent function of the opposite leg over the adjacent leg.

So it's tan^-1(vertical distance/horizontal distance)

This will give you the angle that you will need to tilt your head to have your eyes pointing at the top of the screen.

BTW Spaceman the room is looking really good. I second the recommendation to use staples and a hammer. They aren't too difficult to drive and if you end up boring holes through your walls then most of the wire will be supported without staples.


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post #82 of 1237 Old 02-15-2012, 09:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I've been trying to come up with a simple way to control my lighting. The current plan is for 5 zones:
-3 can lights over screen on dimmer
-2 can lights in rear soffit on dimmer
-6 can lights in right & left soffits on dimmer (3 in each soffit)
-rope lights in ceiling on dimmer
-step lights on switch (should these be on a dimmer?)

I've been looking at the Insteon dimmers that can be controlled by the IRLinc IR to Insteon converter module.
http://www.insteon.net/2476d-switchl...mer-white.html
http://www.insteon.net/2411R-IRLinc.html

I don't have a lot of room by my entry door for 4 or 5 dimmers needed to control the zones mentioned above. I was thinking of placing just one of these by the door
http://www.insteon.net/2486dwh6-keypadlinc.html and have the actual dimmers further down the wall or even in the equipment closet. I could then use the keypad as a main switch when coming into the room and then once in my seat, control everything by the remote (either with Insteon's supplied remote but preferably with a Harmony).

I have absolutley zero experience when it comes to home automation so I don't know if this is the best or most cost effective solution for what I'm trying to do. My goal is to control dimming for individual zones with a remote, or have them automated when I press play on the Blu-Ray player. An uncluttered entry with just one wall plate is preferred, but I could probably make room for (3) 2-gang boxes at the entry if I had to. And like everything else in my build, an economical but reliable solution is the goal. If I could have an automated lighting system for around $4-500, I'd be happy.

Am I on the right track? Are there other systems I should look at?

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post #83 of 1237 Old 02-15-2012, 09:45 PM
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I would take a look at Lutron Grafik Eyes. They are a lighting controller that fits in a 4-gang box. Looks kind of like your house's thermostat. The Grafik Eyes make it really easy to program different lighting scenes. So you could have a scene for when you walk in and then when you press "watch a movie" on the harmony it automatically adjusts the lights to the desired level. They can get kind of expensive though but eBay might have some used for cheaper. If you can drop down to 4-zones them some cheaper models may open up for you. Maybe do the step lights on a motion sensing switch so that they come on when someone walks by?


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post #84 of 1237 Old 02-16-2012, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

BTW Spaceman the room is looking really good. I second the recommendation to use staples and a hammer. They aren't too difficult to drive and if you end up boring holes through your walls then most of the wire will be supported without staples.

Thanks aaustin. Staples and hammer it is. Hope to get the can light housings up today (got sidetracked browsing EBay for Grafikeyes and have already lost an hour). Maybe I'll be running wire this weekend.

Regarding my lighting control options, would the Lutron Spacer system be comparible to the Insteon system? Too many choices!! And in case you couldn't tell by now, I'm not the best at making a final decision. Analysis paralysis gets the best of me sometimes, ok, most times. Just ask my wife how long it took us to pick out a refrigerator (repeat trips to multiple stores). Or better yet, how long I spent in the tool aisle at HD trying to select the best magnetic bit holder/drive guide. The sales associate finally felt bad for her and asked if he should come help me.

Good thing you guys stepped up and helped me on my romex staple issue or I would have a spreadsheet going comparing features of different staplers.

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post #85 of 1237 Old 02-16-2012, 07:45 AM
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I gathered from a different thread that you aren't going to decouple your walls. I'm just curious as to the reason? I'm still debating on whether I will decouple or not and would like to hear both sides, as mainly I read to do it.

-Sean
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post #86 of 1237 Old 02-16-2012, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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You will find that I'm definitely in the minority in not doing the DD/GG with decoupling. It's not that I'm not a believer in the benefits. I had considered it, but quickly realized that one small mistake along the way pretty much ruins all of the effort/money spent trying to accomplish sonic nirvana. Based on my skill set, I'm pretty sure I would have made at least 1, if not 10 mistakes along the way. Believe me, I'm as anal as the rest of the folks on here (take that as a compliment guys and gals), but the learning curve and potential for failure was not worth it to me, based on all of the other things I need to master in order to pull off this build.

We also do the majority of our movie watching as a family, so there really isn't any late night reference level movie watching going on after the kids go to bed. I guess lowering the noise floor in the room by reducing outside noises would be nice, but we live in a very quiet neighborhood on a large lot. I really didn't see the need to go through all of that trouble. My theater is also on the 2nd floor, so I would have had to address the floor as well as the ceiling.

If you have the time/money and energy to do it right, by all means go for it. I'm sure you will be very happy. I think it all depends on your particular situation.

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post #87 of 1237 Old 02-16-2012, 08:32 AM
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Based on what I have seen of your work so far you should not doubt your abilities to decouple the room. Almost everyone on this forum has no experience with these decoupling techniques and manage to get it right. I would not let the experiences of a few skew your ideas of how difficult it is. I can assure you that the experience in that recent thread is not typical. In my room I still have a lot of little things to do like seal up some holes - door seals etc. If you read that recent thread you would assume that something like the door not being sealed would completely defeat all my efforts and I can tell you that just isn't true. Even with the door wide open, the room still contains a lot of the sound from the floor above.

I can understand not doing it because of cost / time or other factors but don't doubt your abilities to do the work.


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post #88 of 1237 Old 02-16-2012, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the words of encouragement, Stockmonkey. Cost also played a part (being unemployed at the moment), but mostly the decision was based on our viewing habits (don't really watch movies late at night) and the noise level in our neighborhood (or lack of). My closest neighbor is several hundred feet away. If we still lived in California where the wall of the neighbor's house was literally 10' from our house, I would certainly reconsider my approach.

Spaceman Theater Build


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post #89 of 1237 Old 02-18-2012, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Regarding my lighting control options, would the Lutron Spacer system be comparible to the Insteon system?

Spaceman, I'm also currently reviewing options for lighting control in my media room (half HT, half play area). I've installed Lutron's spacer system in my last to homes and never had any issues with. However, the biggest drawback is that it's IR, so you need line of sight to the switch or switches.

With the Insteon system, which I'm leaning toward, it is dual band (RF and over the Wire). So you can control multiple switches without line of sight to any of them. You also have the advantage that all your wiring doesn't have to run back to one electrical gang (like you do with a Graphic Eye).

Everyone, I'm still researching lighting options so if I misspoke feel free to correct me.
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post #90 of 1237 Old 02-19-2012, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwehnes View Post

Spaceman, I'm also currently reviewing options for lighting control in my media room (half HT, half play area). I've installed Lutron's spacer system in my last to homes and never had any issues with. However, the biggest drawback is that it's IR, so you need line of sight to the switch or switches.

With the Insteon system, which I'm leaning toward, it is dual band (RF and over the Wire). So you can control multiple switches without line of sight to any of them. You also have the advantage that all your wiring doesn't have to run back to one electrical gang (like you do with a Graphic Eye).

Everyone, I'm still researching lighting options so if I misspoke feel free to correct me.


Hopefully this is not hijacking the thread, but I am a newbie at home automation. If I ALREADY have everything "wired" and now realize that I have a bit more money to try and control a few lights...is the Insteon System what I want? Do you simply REPLACE existing switches and then away you go ? Or do you have to "rewire"...can't seem to find a simply HOW TO guide anywhere ?


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