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post #1081 of 1256 Old 01-16-2013, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Not too bad. Very similar to programming the keypad. I recommend printing the manual so you have that to reference. It took a few tries to get the first one to work, but after that, it's just repeating the same steps over and over. The most time consuming part was creating, labeling, and learning the new buttons on the universal remote. I'm really happy with it. I think my bottom line to implement the Insteon system was $380 (for 2 dimmers, 2 switches, a dimming outlet, the 8-button keypad and a discounted IRLinc courtesy of jautor). I'll probably end up getting the custom-etched keypad buttons someday which will bring me to an even $400.
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post #1082 of 1256 Old 01-16-2013, 10:50 AM
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Lighting solution for under $400 seems like a great deal! Nice job

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post #1083 of 1256 Old 01-18-2013, 09:20 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm going to need an IR repeater kit soon and have been looking at the Xantech kits (or their individual components which would allow me to get a 6 unit connector block vs. the 4 unit block that comes in the kit). Are there other manufacturers that I should be looking at as well? I've seen Xantech sold through Smarthome, Parts Express and Amazon, but prices are all over the place. Is there a go to source? Anyone with experience using the Monoprice IR kits?

EDIT: I also see that Smarthome sells their own brand of IR repeaters. Has anyone used these before?
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post #1084 of 1256 Old 01-19-2013, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Same here - I've gone to just leaving two dead bulbs in those front-most soffit cans. rolleyes.gif
Me too! This must be an extremely common oversight.
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post #1085 of 1256 Old 01-19-2013, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I'm going to need an IR repeater kit soon and have been looking at the Xantech kits (or their individual components which would allow me to get a 6 unit connector block vs. the 4 unit block that comes in the kit). Are there other manufacturers that I should be looking at as well? I've seen Xantech sold through Smarthome, Parts Express and Amazon, but prices are all over the place. Is there a go to source? Anyone with experience using the Monoprice IR kits?

EDIT: I also see that Smarthome sells their own brand of IR repeaters. Has anyone used these before?
I bought the Impact Acoustics repeater kit through Amazon a few years ago. Comes with 4 and is expandable to 12. I have the sensor mounted on the bottom of a cabinet that contains the components. Haven't had any issues with it since I installed it in 2010.

Impact Acoustics IR Repeater
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post #1086 of 1256 Old 01-19-2013, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I'm going to need an IR repeater kit soon and have been looking at the Xantech kits (or their individual components which would allow me to get a 6 unit connector block vs. the 4 unit block that comes in the kit). Are there other manufacturers that I should be looking at as well? I've seen Xantech sold through Smarthome, Parts Express and Amazon, but prices are all over the place. Is there a go to source? Anyone with experience using the Monoprice IR kits?

EDIT: I also see that Smarthome sells their own brand of IR repeaters. Has anyone used these before?

I have used a hotlink for about 5 years, and it works fine. I just added a smarthome repeater into the sitting room and it also seems to work well, no problems. I'll have to order a new one for my theater, but I have to leave the cabinet doors open right now since my temporary screen is sitting on them.
Link to the smarthome repeater I am using:
http://www.smarthome.com/59501/Smarthome-Hidden-IR-Repeater-System/p.aspx
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post #1087 of 1256 Old 01-20-2013, 09:35 PM
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So what happened with the truck?
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post #1088 of 1256 Old 01-20-2013, 10:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Total loss. mad.gif The ABS actuator assembly, 4 ABS lines, & wiring harness were $5k just for the parts. Entire estimate for all repairs came to $9,300. He said the truck is worth a little more than that but he was afraid once they actually got in there and started poking around, they would find more. If Toyota doesn't step up, my insurance said they will cover it, minus my deductible. Unfortunately, it could be in limbo for a while while the two of them schedule the necessary inspections and determine the exact cause. Since Toyota hasn't accepted blame, they won't cover a rental. And since I don't have rental coverage, my insurance won't put me in a temporary set of wheels either. So, my wife and I are trying our best to get by with 1 car while things get sorted out.

My insurance company probably loves me. We had just started a policy with them 11 days before the incident. They have been great so far and hopefully will take care of us after all the inspections are done. Until then, I'm trying not to worry about it too much. I would have preferred to put off car shopping for at least another 5 years, but I guess I need to start researching.

On the theater front, I've purchased all of the materials for the mini-riser and hope to have that assembled in the next day or two. I had to go to 4 different HDs to find one that had the black indoor/outdoor carpet I needed. It's pretty dark so it should just disappear underneath the footprint of the seats. I should also have enough materials to finish the last 13 fabric panels. Getting close. Hope to have most of it wrapped up by the Superbowl.
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post #1089 of 1256 Old 01-20-2013, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Total loss. mad.gif The ABS actuator assembly, 4 ABS lines, & wiring harness were $5k just for the parts. Entire estimate for all repairs came to $9,300. He said the truck is worth a little more than that but he was afraid once they actually got in there and started poking around, they would find more. If Toyota doesn't step up, my insurance said they will cover it, minus my deductible. Unfortunately, it could be in limbo for a while while the two of them schedule the necessary inspections and determine the exact cause. Since Toyota hasn't accepted blame, they won't cover a rental. And since I don't have rental coverage, my insurance won't put me in a temporary set of wheels either. So, my wife and I are trying our best to get by with 1 car while things get sorted out.

My insurance company probably loves me. We had just started a policy with them 11 days before the incident. They have been great so far and hopefully will take care of us after all the inspections are done. Until then, I'm trying not to worry about it too much. I would have preferred to put off car shopping for at least another 5 years, but I guess I need to start researching.

On the theater front, I've purchased all of the materials for the mini-riser and hope to have that assembled in the next day or two. I had to go to 4 different HDs to find one that had the black indoor/outdoor carpet I needed. It's pretty dark so it should just disappear underneath the footprint of the seats. I should also have enough materials to finish the last 13 fabric panels. Getting close. Hope to have most of it wrapped up by the Superbowl.

Ouch

Good luck. I was car shopping about a week or so ago and was about to sign a lease on a C250 coupe with sport package. It was really nice, but then I realized I should wait for my first paycheck to see the exact change.

The idea was fun while it lasted and really I don't need a new car right now.
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post #1090 of 1256 Old 01-21-2013, 09:05 PM - Thread Starter
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I was able to finish the 3" mini riser that will sit under my back seats. After taking the 12-3/4" main riser into account, the back seats will now sit almost 16" above the main floor. I would not have had enough head room under the soffits if I had built a 16" high main riser, so I needed to keep that at 12-3/4" and raise just the seats an extra 3" to get to the correct height.

I found a nice black outdoor carpet at HD.
http://www.homedepot.com/Flooring-Carpet-Carpet-Tile-Outdoor-Carpet/Beaulieu/h_d1/N-5yc1vZboilZ47x/R-100656078/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051#.UP4GX_JhDE4

The riser itself is made from 2 layers of 3/4" osb on top of a 2x4 frame. The 2x4's are laid flat, not on edge, to give me an overall height of 3". The osb extends 1-1/2" past the frame on all sides. If my measurements are correct, the platform should be just large enough for the frame of the seats, but should not extend out from under the seats.


I cut the carpet 12" longer and wider than the actual platform to give me an extra 6" all the way around. With the carpet laid face down on the floor, I placed both layers of osb on top of the carpet and screwed the 2 layers together with 1-1/4" screws.



I was originally going to add the frame to the bottom of the osb before pulling the carpet over the lip, but it was much easier to pull the carpet tight without any framing in the way. I stapled the carpet to the bottom of the osb and then secured the frame to the osb with 2" screws. The perimeter of the frame sits right on top of the carpet that was pulled over the lip.





This sucker is heavy!! I'm guessing 150lbs. To apply the carpet to the exposed edge of the frame, I cut (2) 4" wide strips of carpet. They each run around the front and back of the frame and form a seam in the middle of each side. I tipped the platform on it's side and stapled each 4" strip to the edge of the frame, just under the lip.





Once the carpet was secured to the edge of the frame, I laid the platform back down and wrapped the 4" strip over and stapled it to the bottom of the framing.




Once the framing was completely wrapped, I flipped the platform right side up.






I need to finish one last fabric panel on the back wall before putting the seats on the platform.

I realized about half way through assembly that I probably could have just unscrewed the factory feet and replaced them with taller bun feet to achieve a similar boost.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=bun%20feet&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All
Has anyone tried this before? It would cost about the same for a row of 4 seats, but it would be much easier to do.
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post #1091 of 1256 Old 01-22-2013, 11:26 AM
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So would you have built your riser slightly taller if you were doing it over again? What is the distance from the floor to the bottom of the screen?
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post #1092 of 1256 Old 01-22-2013, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by skicrave View Post

So would you have built your riser slightly taller if you were doing it over again?
No, raising the main riser would have left me with insufficient headroom under the soffits. The mini riser was the only way to get additional height on the back row.

Quote:
What is the distance from the floor to the bottom of the screen?
The bottom of the screen is about 32-1/4" above the floor.
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post #1093 of 1256 Old 01-22-2013, 03:59 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'm in a similar situation with a builder grade room in a new home we just built. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) there weren't any options to change the room during construction, so we're going to tear apart a brand new room that has a very similar layout to yours.

Thanks for the inspiration, your room looks incredible!
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post #1094 of 1256 Old 01-23-2013, 11:57 AM
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Spaceman,

My lighting setup is similar to yours.

I will have 3 insteon dimmers controlling four 4" cans each and a 2 insteon non-dimming switches to control stair lights and screen lights.

I have will then have an 8 button insteon keypad that will control all 5 insteon switches (which will be hidden behind fabric panels).

Does the 8 button keypad just have to be wired somewhere on the circuit? I can't find any information online on how to wire this thing up. I would think that it could be anywhere on the circuit and I would just wire up the 5 insteon switches like normal switches. Is that safe assumption?

I also have the same steplights from amazon, do you find them dim enough?
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post #1095 of 1256 Old 01-23-2013, 12:20 PM
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The 8 button keypad can be wired up with or without an attached load. From the smarthome website;

If you need help try the smarthome forum.
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post #1096 of 1256 Old 01-23-2013, 01:01 PM - Thread Starter
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The keypad is basically a dimmer with 8 buttons on it. It can be wired directly to one of your 3 dimming zones (eliminating the need for a stand-alone dimmer). The keypad will then communicate with your other 2 dimmers and the 2 non-dimming switches by sending a signal over your in-home wiring.

If you can terminate the wiring for one of the dimming zones at your keypad location, you could return one of the stand-alone dimmers for a refund (or use it somewhere else in the house).
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post #1097 of 1256 Old 01-23-2013, 01:04 PM
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Thank you! Now that makes sense when I see the wiring diagram that it is an actual dimmer. That was the confusing part.
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post #1098 of 1256 Old 01-25-2013, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Crossed a few things off the list over the last day or two. I finally finished the fabric panel that sits behind the sub and rear seats. Once I got that in, I was able to fine tune the location of the mini riser and get the seats back up there.


Shot of sub behind back row



Rear seats in upright position (with tray tables secure and seat belts fastened)



Rear seats reclined



Seats on mini riser





The final configuration is a 7'-8" deep riser with the rear headrests 7" away from the back wall when fully reclined. My feet overhang the foot rests, so I probably have a few inches of clearance between my feet and a fully-reclined front row headrest. And this is with the front row pulled 3" away from the riser lip.




I know the 6-1/2' min. riser depth is tossed around a lot, but I don't think I'd consider anything less than 7' deep.

I also completed the fabric panel that sits over the column by the door. It hides 2 dimmers and 2 switches and holds the lone keypad that controls the entire room.

Inside of column



Finished column

I had to dim the led lights on the hidden switches and dimmers because they showed through the fabric on the column. The buttons on the brown keypad are opaque, so while they aren't distracting, they can be hard to locate.


Closeup of keypad



I also finished the last of the velvet panels on the screen wall.



So that's 93 panels down...7 to go. smile.gif

If I was to do the screen wall over again, I would eliminate or relocate the seam in the panels above the screen. I went with two panels with a seam in the middle, but the seam falls right under the center can, so it's pretty visible when the screen lights are on. Looks fine when the screen cans are off, but it bugs me.
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post #1099 of 1256 Old 01-25-2013, 04:23 PM
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Looks great, color choices worked really well. Home stretch!
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post #1100 of 1256 Old 01-25-2013, 04:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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color choices worked really well.

Do they look familiar? wink.gif
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post #1101 of 1256 Old 01-25-2013, 04:32 PM
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Looking good Spaceman. Would it have been too difficult to make the top and bottom panels one continuous piece? The screen area still looks amazing. Very nice work.
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post #1102 of 1256 Old 01-25-2013, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, Vanice. I probably could have made one long panel, but it would have been about 10-1/2' long. I think I just assumed the seam would disappear but I forgot about the light.
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post #1103 of 1256 Old 01-25-2013, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post



So that's 93 panels down...7 to go. smile.gif

If I was to do the screen wall over again, I would eliminate or relocate the seam in the panels above the screen. I went with two panels with a seam in the middle, but the seam falls right under the center can, so it's pretty visible when the screen lights are on. Looks fine when the screen cans are off, but it bugs me.

Everything looks really, really great Spaceman! Very jealous. Makes me want to jump a plane to Houston with a stack of Blurays and nerd out for a bit. tongue.gif

Anywho, I see what you mean about that seam and I think that would bug me too. Just a suggestion - can you shorten the width of each of the existing two panels so the new seam would be located at the midpoint between the recessed lights? Naturally you would then make a third panel to bridge the gap between the two, but the two seams would be hidden in the darkest possible area. Without tearing through a bunch of pages here on your thread I don't know if this is easily doable or if you glued and screwed the crap out of your frames to the point that modification of the existing frame would be impossible. Just a thought.

You haven't talked much about the sound since you got the audio system up and dialed in. Are you happy with the overall sound of your theater?

Have a good weekend!
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post #1104 of 1256 Old 01-25-2013, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Do they look familiar? wink.gif

Haha, we definitely have a similar taste in earth tones.

I have the same split panel above my screen, but lucked out since I have four screen wash lights, so they don't hit the seam.
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post #1105 of 1256 Old 01-25-2013, 06:04 PM
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This is the money-shot, and it's killer. Nicely done, for sure.
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post #1106 of 1256 Old 01-25-2013, 07:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Makes me want to jump a plane to Houston with a stack of Blurays and nerd out for a bit. tongue.gif
Make sure you come in appropriate attire.


Quote:
Anywho, I see what you mean about that seam and I think that would bug me too. Just a suggestion - can you shorten the width of each of the existing two panels so the new seam would be located at the midpoint between the recessed lights? Naturally you would then make a third panel to bridge the gap between the two, but the two seams would be hidden in the darkest possible area. Without tearing through a bunch of pages here on your thread I don't know if this is easily doable or if you glued and screwed the crap out of your frames to the point that modification of the existing frame would be impossible. Just a thought.
It's too much work to fix given the short amount of time you actually see it. Maybe I'll get to it once everything else is done and I'm looking for things to do. wink.gif For now, I just wanted to throw it out there so others could plan accordingly.

Quote:
You haven't talked much about the sound since you got the audio system up and dialed in. Are you happy with the overall sound of your theater?
I'm pretty happy with it. I plan on getting a video calibration done later this year and will most likely get an audio calibration done at the same time. This will include an evaluation of my treatments. I still haven't run Audyssey but plan to soon. I know I could benefit from dialing in the bass.

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This is the money-shot, and it's killer. Nicely done, for sure.
Thanks, Fred.
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post #1107 of 1256 Old 02-03-2013, 03:15 AM
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I havn't read through the whole thread yet, but I found a place that sells 2'-4' black lights for fairly cheap. I'm getting a pair of the 4 footers myself at 29.99 each.
http://www.cheapdjgear.us/48_Blacklight_Fixture_p/f48a.htm
I don't know if that would help your situation ^_^
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post #1108 of 1256 Old 02-03-2013, 04:43 AM
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hey spaceman, I've got HSU inwalls. I posted a picture in my thread of how I got them angled in, made a major difference. For a cheap speaker it will "get by" for what it's required to do. I'm surprised HSU didn't allow us to tilt or point the tweeter.

Current Projects:
IN PROGRESS (80%) - Building 3D Theater room.
IN PROGRESS (30%) - Building Lounge/Hallway Area.
IN PROGRESS (15%) - Building Home LAN (4 PCs).
ON HOLD - Building Home Gym.
ON HOLD - Building Simulation Room (Eyefinity).
ON HOLD - Building Theater room (Sim2 HT380, 2.35 14ft wide).
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post #1109 of 1256 Old 02-03-2013, 09:05 AM - Thread Starter
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I havn't read through the whole thread yet, but I found a place that sells 2'-4' black lights for fairly cheap. I'm getting a pair of the 4 footers myself at 29.99 each.
http://www.cheapdjgear.us/48_Blacklight_Fixture_p/f48a.htm
I don't know if that would help your situation ^_^

That's a good find. It looks slim enough to fit in my narrow light tray too. Using the 2 footers is still a little more economical, since they only run about $11ea. I've been stockpiling the 2 footers when I find myself wandering around Walmart. I currently have 6 that I need to put up in the ceiling. That will leave me needing only 6 more to have full coverage on all 4 sides of each coffer. I was originally pretty happy with just having the lights around the perimeter of the ceiling, but it looks much better with even distribution on all 4 sides of each coffer.
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post #1110 of 1256 Old 02-03-2013, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmalloc View Post

hey spaceman, I've got HSU inwalls. I posted a picture in my thread of how I got them angled in, made a major difference. For a cheap speaker it will "get by" for what it's required to do.

I thought about doing that when I was building the boxes to hold mine, but wimped out. Maybe a future tweak.
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