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post #1171 of 1237 Old 07-01-2013, 07:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I'm sure whatever you choose will look great.
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post #1172 of 1237 Old 08-16-2013, 08:23 PM
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Is anything like linacoustic or ducliner inside the panels you made? I will eventually start fabric panels for the top half above a chair rail and I'd be worried about someone leaning against them or poking em with a finger.

Great looking theater
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post #1173 of 1237 Old 08-17-2013, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linkseo View Post

Is anything like linacoustic or ducliner inside the panels you made?

The majority of the panels on the side walls include a linacoustic insert (where shown in gray on the pic below). Panels without a gray tone are empty. Panels on the back wall are also empty because the treatments are already on the wall. My fabric is stretched pretty tight, so I'm not too worried about incidental contact, but if someone was to lean on one or give it a strong poke, there might be some damage, regardless of whether linacoustic is present. It hasn't been a problem so far. I did order extra fabric though to cover future repairs.
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post #1174 of 1237 Old 08-26-2013, 09:01 AM - Thread Starter
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General Electrical Question:

Is it acceptable to wire a duplex receptacle so each of the outlets is controlled by a separate switch, or must one of the outlets always remain hot?
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post #1175 of 1237 Old 08-26-2013, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

General Electrical Question:

Is it acceptable to wire a duplex receptacle so each of the outlets is controlled by a separate switch, or must one of the outlets always remain hot?
You can wire the receptacle so that each of the 2 outlets are controlled independently. You just cut the little wing on both sides that connects the 2 outlets together. Whether or not they are on (hot) is controlled upstream by a switch, or 2 different switches. I have one wired exactly like that with each of the 2 sides of the outlet independently controlled by 2 different RadioRA2 switches. In my case, one controls under counter lighting, one controls LED floor lights. Each has a wall wart plugged into the 2 outlets, same receptacle.
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post #1176 of 1237 Old 08-26-2013, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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That's what I want to do. I just wasn't sure if there was a code that required one of the outlets to remain unswitched or always hot. Thanks for the quick reply.
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post #1177 of 1237 Old 08-26-2013, 09:16 AM
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If you have two separate 14/2 wires running into the box, then you would break off the little wing connector on both sides. If you have a single 14/3 wire running to the box you would keep the neutral (white wire) side in-tact and then break the small tab on the hot side and attach the red wire to one terminal and the black wire to the other terminal.

I didn't know if you had two 14/2 or a single 14/3, because it makes a difference with the install on whether you break the neutral tab or not.
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post #1178 of 1237 Old 08-26-2013, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

That's what I want to do. I just wasn't sure if there was a code that required one of the outlets to remain unswitched or always hot. Thanks for the quick reply.

It depends.

If this receptacle is meeting the requirements of 210.52 (receptacle every 12' and one every wall >2 feet wide), then at least one receptacle outlet must be hot.

If this is a receptacle out of the way (ie in a rope tray), then both receptacle outlets can be switched.

The always-hot receptacles required by 210.52 are always in addition to any switched outlets. If you have the code minimum addressed and this is just an extra duplex receptacle, you can do whatever you want.

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post #1179 of 1237 Old 08-26-2013, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, this will be a receptacle up in a light tray so it doesn't need to satisfy any min. spacing requirements.
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post #1180 of 1237 Old 08-27-2013, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

That being said, I'd be surprised if you could achieve the 6-12 hour glow times promised by many glow-in-the-dark paint manufacturers, even in ideal conditions. Yes, maybe a few of the large constellation stars will be visible after a few hours (if you squint really hard and it's pitch black)

Spaceman's reply was right on for how the stars react during a movie. Thanks! There was just one comment that I'd like to clarify however. It's copied above.

In a theater, where you will usually not stay in the room for longer than a movie or two... and you might even go out into another room where there are bright lights on... if you were to go back into the theater and expect to see stars right away, it just wouldn't happen. Maybe, as was mentioned, the larger stars might be visible without charging the stars back up. But, let's say the stars were in a bedroom (the other place I paint many murals)... you would most likely see about 1/3 to 1/2 of the stars 6 hours after the lights were turned out and still some 10 hours (the large ones) later. But, if you go out into the light and then go back into the room... it will take abut 15 to 20 minutes to see anything again. And, if that's the case, you might as well boost them again with a shot of fluorescent light. Stay in the dark, however, for 8 hours... and you should see stars that long.

Having said that... if you want to see stars during the entire movie, then Spaceman's description was right on. I just wanted to clarify that some stars will still glow for up to the 10 - 12 hours... but for that, you will want to stay in the dark that long too, like in a bedroom.

Great answer Spaceman! Thanks again!

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post #1181 of 1237 Old 09-26-2013, 08:16 PM
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Spaceman,
I just went thru this thread again looking at pics, trying to see exactly how the screen wall was handled. Where is the front sub. In the plans you have 2 subs behind the screen, but I don't see enough room behinds the screen wall for a sub. Just incredible work, hope you guys are enjoying it.
Thanks, E

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post #1182 of 1237 Old 09-26-2013, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry for the confusion, Eric. There are some floor plans in the unedited portion of the first post that represent the first attempts at a room layout. At that time, I had the screen on a different wall and was intending to place a sub or two behind a false wall, but things changed as I continued to develop the plan. Ultimately, I wound up placing the sub behind the 2nd row of seats. In order to maximize the distance between screen and front row, I needed to keep the screen as close to the front wall as possible, so I only have about 10" behind my false wall (before acoustic treatments).

The plan below pretty much reflects the final layout, except I decided to go with a 115" wide 2.35:1 screen and placed all 3 speakers behind the screen. The locations of HVAC supplies and return were modified as well.
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post #1183 of 1237 Old 09-27-2013, 11:37 AM
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Thanks for clarifying. I forgot you spun the set up around. How is the wide screen working out. We watch a lot of material that is in 16:9 so that format is good for us right now.
Onre more question. What software did you use for your design plans.
Thanks,
Eric

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post #1184 of 1237 Old 09-27-2013, 02:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Yup. Spun it around, turned it on it's head, tweaked and retweaked. Took longer to research and design than it did to build.

We love the wide screen. I'd say it's been a 60/40 mix of 2.35:1 and 16:9 content, maybe a little heavier on the 2.35 side. I'm really happy we went that way. I was a little concerned that 16:9 images would seem small, but they still end up 87" wide or around 100" diagonal. From 9'-6" away, that's still plenty big. Even from the back row, I think it's a perfect size.

I used AutoCAD for all the design work. I've used it for the past 17 years for work so it was much easier than trying to learn Sketchup (although I really need to do that one of these days).
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post #1185 of 1237 Old 09-27-2013, 06:44 PM
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I am thinking i am probably a couple of years away from redoing our room, about 13 x 21, so i had better start planning. Not ready to make my own thread yet. Ok, one more question. Are you using a special lense with your projector. I have been reading about setting up a wide screen for my epson 5010 and being able to switch back and forth between scales. If I can figure that out, I may go with a 2.35:1 screen that fills our screen wall. Our 16:9 110" is a pretty good size right now.
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post #1186 of 1237 Old 09-27-2013, 06:59 PM - Thread Starter
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No extra lens. The JVC has lens memory that automatically adjusts zoom, focus and shift between the 2 aspect ratios with a press of a button. I was not willing to pay the extra $$ for an anamorphic lens, so getting a pj with lens memory was important.
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post #1187 of 1237 Old 10-04-2013, 05:43 AM
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Spaceman,

How did 1/8" spacing work out for you on your panels? I'm about to start making mine and was thinking 1/8" on each side should be good enough but wanted to get your opinion since you've been through it now.
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post #1188 of 1237 Old 10-04-2013, 06:16 AM - Thread Starter
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1/8" worked out well. I have a few gaps that are wider and a few that are smaller. The wider ones don't look as good (but aren't really noticeable unless you know where to look) while the smaller gaps look a little better. 85% are right at 1/8" and they look just fine. I did throw some black paint on the furring strips/wall just at the seam locations to prevent anything from showing through the gaps, particularly at eye level.

If you are planning removable panels, an 1/8" gap is perfect. Just wide enough to slide the short end of an allen wrench into the gap. Once the angle is past the back edge of the panel, you turn it 90 degrees so it hooks the panel and "pull".
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post #1189 of 1237 Old 10-09-2013, 01:40 PM
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Spaceman,

Beautiful theater... Absolutely love it. I will be using yours as an inspiration for my new theater I will be building soon. Your first post is very well organized, with links to different parts of your thread. Well done. Cant wait to read this from start to finish. Hope you are enjoying your NightSkyMural... I know I am. wink.gif We are proud members of an elite club.

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post #1190 of 1237 Old 10-30-2013, 10:13 PM
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Hey Spaceman... you made me laugh a couple of weeks ago. I was sweating it out in a theater room when the customer came down and told me that he'd mentioned, on AVS, that I was there painting. He then said that you'd written a comment telling him to drop the temperature down for me. I both laughed and mentally high-fived you at the same time! :-)

I guess that my low tolerance for temperatures over 65 degrees is very well known these days.

Houston was nice last week. Found a new favorite BBQ place in Dallas too.

Jeff

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post #1191 of 1237 Old 10-31-2013, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Question regarding subwoofer placement behind velvet panels on screen wall:

I believe the consensus has been that, when placing a subwoofer behind a false wall, it is not as critical to use a true AT fabric like FR701 in front of the sub. Panels wrapped in Plush Triple Velvet work just as well without negatively effecting the lower frequencies. Is this a correct assumption? If that's the case, has anyone experienced problems with the velvet physically moving when the sub is really getting a workout? I'm specifically wondering if a Captivator S2 spaced 2" behind a velvet panel will be problematic. My gut says yes. Would FR701 be a better choice for this application?
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post #1192 of 1237 Old 10-31-2013, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I believe the consensus has been that, when placing a subwoofer behind a false wall, it is not as critical to use a true AT fabric like FR701 in front of the sub. Panels wrapped in Plush Triple Velvet work just as well without negatively effecting the lower frequencies. Is this a correct assumption? If that's the case, has anyone experienced problems with the velvet physically moving when the sub is really getting a workout? I'm specifically wondering if a Captivator S2 spaced 2" behind a velvet panel will be problematic. My gut says yes. Would FR701 be a better choice for this application?

Neither fabric will have any effect on the low frequencies. There would also be no problem with the velvet right in front of the driver....it's no different than a grill cover on a conventional subwoofer, which is also in close proximity to the driver. Yes, you can see the fabric moving when looking at it from the side under good lighting, but you'll never see it under normal circumstances.
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post #1193 of 1237 Old 11-01-2013, 03:58 AM
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Hi Spaceman,

Just wondering who did the acoustic treatment design for your room?
I have a room very similar size to yours (18' 6" x 14' 4) and using inwall speakers as you have.
Are you happy with the overall sound of the room and would you change anything you've done?
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post #1194 of 1237 Old 11-01-2013, 07:50 AM - Thread Starter
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My acoustic treatment design was DIY. It was based on professional recommendations from 6 or 8 other rooms of similar size. At the time these other rooms were designed, the acoustic recommendations were pretty similar from one room to the next, so I felt confident applying the same school of thought to my room. It sounds good to me, but I have a feeling I have too much absorption on the side walls. I plan to have both audio & video calibrated someday which will hopefully tell me what adjustments I need to make. But for now, I'm happy with what I have.

If you haven't done so already, make sure you view the Acoustics 101 and 102 videos that Scott Wilkinson did with Tony Grimani. Lots of good info in there. Based on Tony's recommendations, I probably have too much absorption and could benefit from some diffusion.
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post #1195 of 1237 Old 11-01-2013, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

If you haven't done so already, make sure you view the Acoustics 101 and 102 videos that Scott Wilkinson did with Tony Grimani. Lots of good info in there. Based on Tony's recommendations, I probably have too much absorption and could benefit from some diffusion.

I second that, great info indeed, I downloaded both episodes for future reference smile.gif

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post #1196 of 1237 Old 11-05-2013, 02:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

My acoustic treatment design was DIY. It was based on professional recommendations from 6 or 8 other rooms of similar size. At the time these other rooms were designed, the acoustic recommendations were pretty similar from one room to the next, so I felt confident applying the same school of thought to my room. It sounds good to me, but I have a feeling I have too much absorption on the side walls. I plan to have both audio & video calibrated someday which will hopefully tell me what adjustments I need to make. But for now, I'm happy with what I have.

If you haven't done so already, make sure you view the Acoustics 101 and 102 videos that Scott Wilkinson did with Tony Grimani. Lots of good info in there. Based on Tony's recommendations, I probably have too much absorption and could benefit from some diffusion.

Thanks. I will look at those when I get the chance.
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post #1197 of 1237 Old 12-03-2013, 06:31 PM
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Spaceman,

Have you found a way to program your insteon keypad without physically accessing the hidden dimmer switches? Is there a way to do it programmatically?
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post #1198 of 1237 Old 12-03-2013, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Spaceman,

Have you found a way to program your insteon keypad without physically accessing the hidden dimmer switches? Is there a way to do it programmatically?

I believe the ISY994i Controller allows you to program Insteon devices from a computer. Without it, you do need to have physical access to each device for the initial setup or subsequent changes. I haven't had to make any changes since the initial programming so it hasn't been an issue for me. There may be another device but I think the ISY is the common one.
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post #1199 of 1237 Old 12-03-2013, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I believe the ISY994i Controller allows you to program Insteon devices from a computer. Without it, you do need to have physical access to each device for the initial setup or subsequent changes. I haven't had to make any changes since the initial programming so it hasn't been an issue for me. There may be another device but I think the ISY is the common one.
Scandal - I plan on doing the same thing. There is a little more info on this forum for Insteon: https://www.smarthome.com/forum/default.asp?CAT_ID=7

Let me know how you do it so I know when it's my turn :-)
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post #1200 of 1237 Old 12-03-2013, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I believe the ISY994i Controller allows you to program Insteon devices from a computer. Without it, you do need to have physical access to each device for the initial setup or subsequent changes. I haven't had to make any changes since the initial programming so it hasn't been an issue for me. There may be another device but I think the ISY is the common one.

Just a heads up, I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Devices-IR-PRO-Compatible/dp/B007JM2988/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1386129772&sr=1-1&keywords=isy994i from Orchestrated Home on Amazon (no affiliation just a happy customer...thought I'd mention them b/c I wasn't sure if I should order from them) Good deal and it's nice to have the ISY version with IR control so I can control lights etc with Harmony easy. ISY (though dated looking) makes it MUCH easier to program setup than manually. htguys.com podcast had review of ISY not that long ago.

Edit: also don't forget with ISY you also need to buy the PLM too.
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