Spaceman Theater build - Page 42 - AVS Forum
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post #1231 of 1245 Old 04-30-2014, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I'm happy with my Insteon setup. It's the only brand I've used for automation, so I can't really comment on other systems. I would still do it the same way, but would probably add the Insteon Hub so I could also control them from a tablet. It's not necessary because I do have control via my universal remote, but it's pretty cool (and relatively cheap).
I am also happy with Insteon... We have replaced almost every switch in our house now with Insteon, and we use the ISY994i for programming in addition to CQC Software. It is nice having 2 ways to control everything.

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.
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post #1232 of 1245 Old 05-01-2014, 05:57 AM
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Space, I have been using your entire thread as a guide and must say it has been an excellent tutorial. Thanks for all the time and effort to post it all.

Quick question since you guys are on the topic of the Insteon. I'm reading the install instructions and trying to prepare for next month when I purchase it and comparing to your pics. Is the wiring as easy as one wire from the keypad to one switch and then a jumper to each or am I missing something? I don't see four additional runs coming out of the keypad to each switch so just want to make sure I am not crazy. smile.gif

Thanks for any help and glad to hear that you are really enjoying the fruits of your labor!
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post #1233 of 1245 Old 05-01-2014, 07:23 AM
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The keypad does not have a physical connection to the switches you control other than maybe if you are jumpering the power from switch to switch. It is wireless control. The keypad and each Insteon switch could be on different circuits and you would still have control once the switches are linked to the keypad.
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post #1234 of 1245 Old 05-01-2014, 07:27 AM
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:face palm: thanks vanice. tongue.gif


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post #1235 of 1245 Old 06-25-2014, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post
The front wall looked a little naked with linacoustic but no speakers, so I made that my priority this weekend. I have very little room behind my AT screen, so I'm using in-wall speakers (Atlantic Technology IWCB-727 THX Select closed box). Rather than cut a hole in the drywall and recess the speakers 2" into the linacoustic, I built 3 simple speaker boxes that attached directly to the drywall.


Hi Spaceman, this is one of your many good ideas I am planning to use in my theater. Question on the L& R front speakers... Did you consider at all 'toeing' them in? I have seen posts about one downside of in-wall speakers is they 'face straight forward'.

My thought was if I made the left side of the left speaker with say a 2x4 & a 1/2" plywood strip attached between it & the wall, and the right side with just a 2x4, then this would 'angle' the speaker in towards the center a little bit. (doing effectively the same with the right)

Just curious if you had thought about that and discarded it, didn't think it was needed, etc. My theater may be a little wider, with my L&R speakers being 10-11' apart, so that might be a slight difference.

Thanks,

Kevin
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post #1236 of 1245 Old 06-25-2014, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Kevin-I did consider toeing them in, but wasn't really sure how much of an adjustment would be necessary so I decided to keep it simple. Like you, I thought about making the "outside" edge a little deeper. I also thought about constructing the "box" so it "floated" free of the wall and pivoted on a central dowel, but it seemed like more trouble than it was worth, at least for my narrow room.
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post #1237 of 1245 Old 07-30-2014, 05:19 PM - Thread Starter
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If anyone in the Houston area is looking for duct liner for their acoustic panels or front wall treatment (Linacoustic or similar), I'm selling the last 32' left from my build. I have it listed in the AVS classifieds.
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post #1238 of 1245 Old 09-19-2014, 05:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Due to other obligations, I don't get on AVS as often as I used to. I did want to stop in and give a quick shout out to Monoprice, though. I know they are already highly regarded around here, but I wanted to share an experience I had with them today.

Earlier in the week, I wasn't able to get a video signal to the projector. Just a blue flashing screen regardless of the video source. Thoughts of fried ports on the receiver or pj caused some worry, as did thoughts of a family member mistakenly changing some buried setting that would take 3 days to find. Fortunately, after some troubleshooting, I determined it was just a bad HDMI cable. I had been using a 40' UltraSlim Redmere HDMI cable from Monoprice since December of 2012. I called them to see if there were other reported problems with this cable and they said no, but quickly offered to send me a replacement. Hope to be back up and running soon.
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Last edited by Spaceman; 09-21-2014 at 09:47 AM.
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post #1239 of 1245 Old 09-21-2014, 02:57 AM
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I better not have any issues with my Redmere cables, they're buried in walls and can't get out
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post #1240 of 1245 Old 09-22-2014, 10:23 AM
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I better not have any issues with my Redmere cables, they're buried in walls and can't get out

Conduit is your best friend.
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post #1241 of 1245 Old 09-22-2014, 10:42 AM
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Despite reading several places... "make sure to run Conduit"... in my rush to get stuff ready for the Drywall guy coming, I missed out on this step. I have two Redmere cables and 4 Cat-6 cables running to my projector.. I hope not to regret this for several years at least!! My set up is such that although not ideal, I could probably figure out a relatively low pain way to run a new wire. My fall back plan, is to consider some sort of sound treatment on the ceiling, and running wire under that sound treatment...

Reading this post though, certainly is making me second guess my small time savings :-(
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post #1242 of 1245 Old 09-22-2014, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
Despite reading several places... "make sure to run Conduit"... in my rush to get stuff ready for the Drywall guy coming, I missed out on this step. I have two Redmere cables and 4 Cat-6 cables running to my projector.. I hope not to regret this for several years at least!! My set up is such that although not ideal, I could probably figure out a relatively low pain way to run a new wire. My fall back plan, is to consider some sort of sound treatment on the ceiling, and running wire under that sound treatment...

Reading this post though, certainly is making me second guess my small time savings :-(
We ran as much as we could in our soffits.

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.
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post #1243 of 1245 Old 09-22-2014, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPowers View Post
Conduit is your best friend.
I have conduit running all around my theater to equipment room. However, this is a direct shot to the projector so I only needed 25'. If I travel the path of the conduit, I'll likely need 40+ feet.

Not a horrible scenario, but Redmere cables are expensive and I really don't want to push the limits of a cable. As a backup, I do have another Redmere cable run parallel as well as a pair of CAT6 cables.
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post #1244 of 1245 Old 09-22-2014, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Many folks suggest installing empty conduit for future needs and running your initial cables in the wall or ceiling. I never really bought into this school of thought. I figured if I have conduit, why not use it. If a cable goes bad, simply pull it out and put in another. Since Monoprice requires that you send back the damaged cable before they send out a replacement, I would have been out of luck had I opted to leave the conduit empty and installed the original cable in the wall. Something to think about when deciding whether or not to leave your conduit empty. I also found it easier to schedule things like drywall without having to worry about whether I had all the correct cables ordered and installed. As long as the conduit was in, I knew I could pull what I needed to at a later date.
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post #1245 of 1245 Old 09-29-2014, 05:31 AM
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i agree that some sort of tube to run the cables is the way to go - not even thinking about failure but, which is a concern as space pointed out, but what about for upgrades? my last house had an ht when i moved in using component cables that ran into the attic - when it was time to upgrade to a hdmi pj i had to crawl around it the fl heat to swap them - not fun and glad i will not have to do that again -

as for the cost of the red cables they are actually quite inexpensive - space recommended this to me and saved me about $50 over the Blue Jean one was was looking at - to make the run i needed across the room and have a good gauge for the heat -
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