The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 106 - AVS Forum
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post #3151 of 3161 Old 12-15-2014, 11:33 AM - Thread Starter
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I had a chance to try some things out this weekend.

I actually ended up leaving my existing M&K SS-150's (Set them up in Dipole mode now) in the side columns and still using them as Top Fronts and Top Rears but also added some Tannoy Di 5DC as Top Fronts and located them in the soffit and bouncing off the ceiling. With just the Tannoy's (before Audyssey calibration) the sound seemed like it was coming from the Tannoy's but with both the M&K and Tannoy's together in different locations, the white noise sound seemed more difficult to localize. So I rolled with this setup (using the pre-amp outputs to power the extra speakers). With just the M&K's on the outside walls it was really nice, but I didn't get the sense that fly overs were actually above me. But with both sets of speakers, I felt surround sounds were wrapping around the room and above me.

With this setup, the Tannoy speakers are barely visible in the soffit. But I'm still curious if the experience will be any different with them point right at the MLP and not bouncing off the ceiling. So I plan to rig something in each corner temporarily to see if I can tell any difference. This would mean the speakers would be visible so I'm hoping I don't notice much of a sound difference so I'm can go back to plan A with them hidden.

I ordered another pair for placement in the soffit for Top Rears. I think this will mostly benefit the front row since it's just in front of the back row. But I think with the current M&K's behind the rear row assigned as Top Rear, they will still enjoy the experience.





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post #3152 of 3161 Old 12-16-2014, 11:56 AM
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Wanted to throw you a PM Mario, but I'm a pleb here on the forums. Feel free to ax this message once you've read it!

I finally made it through your epic build thread, and I was amazed that it's still active after all this time!

I wanted to thank you for taking the time to put together such an incredible build thread! Your home embodies all of the qualities that I am looking to make for myself and my wife when we purchase a house. I grew up in Marinette WI and will hopefully be moving back from Saint Louis at some point in my life, the people in Wisconsin are just nicer it seems.

I wanted to ask you about your Cinemar software and what language it's programmed in. I'm a computer science major who never got to use any programming once I needed to start earning a living after school. I'm looking to add some skills to my resume, and it would be perfect if they just happened to give me an advantage with your ecosystem for home automation.

Thank you again for being so detailed and congratulations on your home theater. Truly something to be proud of.

-Danimal
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post #3153 of 3161 Old Yesterday, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Danimal.

Thanks for the compliments. You've got mail.
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post #3154 of 3161 Old Yesterday, 09:55 PM
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Mario,
Did you comment somewhere in your massive thread about doing OSB and drywall vs two layers of drywall? I remember reading something about the OSB and the issues you had with the cutout area in the ceiling, but what about the rest of the room?
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post #3155 of 3161 Old Yesterday, 09:56 PM
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Edit: Oops, double post.

Last edited by aakrusen; Yesterday at 09:57 PM. Reason: See above
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post #3156 of 3161 Old Today, 08:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aakrusen View Post
Mario,
Did you comment somewhere in your massive thread about doing OSB and drywall vs two layers of drywall? I remember reading something about the OSB and the issues you had with the cutout area in the ceiling, but what about the rest of the room?
I'd highly recommend using OSB and drywall. Makes it extremely easy for attaching objects to the walls/ceilings since you don't have to look for studs especially for me when I did all the mouldings.

At first I was worried because the OSB in the soffit that cantilevered into the room wasn't straight...but we added some 2x4s to the edges and connected them altogether to fix that.
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post #3157 of 3161 Old Today, 10:29 AM
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I used OSB for the first layer of my soffits, but 2 layers of drywall for everything else. Putting crown up on the soffits was super easy. Hanging stuff on the walls (in my case my surround speakers and acoustical panels are surface mounted) meant using toggle bolts. They work and hold well, but aren't the most "accurate" since you have to drill a larger than needed hole which can make it a little more difficult to get things level. Not "hard" but it is another step later.

Going back, I would look hard at doing OSB for the first layer. Yes, you can't use a roto-zip for cutting out outlets and such, but being able to put screws in wherever you wanted for the 2nd layer would have been nice (instead of having to make sure that you lined up perfectly with where your 1st layer screwed in to your channel or studs (staggered or double wall).
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post #3158 of 3161 Old Today, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post
Going back, I would look hard at doing OSB for the first layer. Yes, you can't use a roto-zip for cutting out outlets and such, but being able to put screws in wherever you wanted for the 2nd layer would have been nice (instead of having to make sure that you lined up perfectly with where your 1st layer screwed in to your channel or studs (staggered or double wall).
You still need to hit studs or channel for the second/third layers of drywall even if you do OSB as your first. Otherwise you are hanging all those extra layers off one set of screws and they are not meant to handel that much wight. .

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Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #3159 of 3161 Unread Today, 03:33 PM
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Wait, so it is more trouble to cut holes in OSB for outlets, etc, takes more time to cut sheets to size (have to use a power tool vs. a straight edge and a drywall knife), you still have to hit the studs/channel/whatever for the 2nd layer... How is this better than 2 layers of drywall everywhere?

I guess if your outlets are "surface mounted" to allow for floor to ceiling panels, or are on columns, but for the Joe-Schmoe that doesn't go that far, what is the benefit? I saw it with my soffits. It allowed for super rigidity of my "skeleton" soffit framing, and I could easily drive some nails through with my air nailer to hold my crown molding in place, but maybe I am glad that I didn't do that for my whole theater.
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post #3160 of 3161 Unread Today, 03:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I guess I should clarify. I didn't hang the drywall or the OSB. So it wasn't more difficult for me to do. But yes - you would still have to hit the studs when putting up the drywall layer(s).
I personally only had 1 or 2 outlets/switch that had to be cut in. Every other outlet was built inside the room in columns and or hidden behind the screen. So aside from the extra labor in cutting the OSB, it wasn't much different than hanging the drywall.

I did do all the finish work, which included tons of crown, chair rail, wainscoting trim, baseboard, etc. All that was put up without needing to find studs. And it took an incredible amount of time. Having to find studs for all those would have been painful to say the least.

I personally wouldn't have done it any other way...but again...I didn't have to hang the OSB or drywall.
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post #3161 of 3161 Unread Today, 07:22 PM
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Another big +1 for 5/8" OSB on the first layer, especially if you are doing extensive molding or wainscot. You just can't beat the 'x marks the spot' approach for your finish work where 'x' is anywhere in your entire room. You only give up an inconsequential difference in mass that Ted White has said has no effect on STC ratings vs. 2 layers of 5/8" drywall.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post
You still need to hit studs or channel for the second/third layers of drywall even if you do OSB as your first. Otherwise you are hanging all those extra layers off one set of screws and they are not meant to handel that much wight. .
Incorrect. You increase the screw length to 1.5" - 2.0" length and narrow your screw pattern to 8" spread. Also use exterior coated deck screws vs. coarse thread drywall screws as the deck screws are significantly stronger in grip strength and sheer. Then you can attach the drywall to the OSB on non-stud locations. If you use just one layer of drywall on top of the OSB, standard 1.25" with Green Glue in the field of the OSB is more than enough. If you go with a third layer (i.e. second layer of drywall), then use 2" screws for the second layer, screwing into the field of the OSB, not the studs.

This approach assumes you are using a decoupled wall assembly and not using clips or channel. If you are using clips and channel, then all layers attach to the channel only, using progressively longer screws.

Last edited by TMcG; Today at 07:31 PM.
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