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post #361 of 3067 Old 06-03-2011, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Larry,

I'm no expert in this area so please forgive me.

Here's what I know...
Based on the EPA radon risk chart and me being a non-smoker, I have roughly a .25% chance of getting lung cancer at levels around 5 pCi/L. I found a local company that will reduce the levels to at least 3.9 pCi/L for around $595 by sealing the sump and installing an inline fan to pump the radon outside. If they get it down to 3.9, that reduces the chances of getting lung cancer to .2%. So a difference of about .05% for spending $595.

Just trying to weigh whether .05% chance is worth $595.
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post #362 of 3067 Old 06-03-2011, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

As an FYI, I believe my original radon testing was around 3.2 which isn't that bad but I still installed a system and my level is at 0.7 which is great

What type of system did you get?
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post #363 of 3067 Old 06-03-2011, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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And here's what 540' of Drywall Furring Channel looks like:


I'm assuming it will straighten itself out once it's aligned in the Whisper Clips.

2000' of Cat6 and 1000' of Cat5 arrived today so I can finish up most of the basement wiring and hopefully have enough left over for the theater. I've got 1000' of 12/2 coming for the speakers in the theater. Also waiting on RG6 for the Subwoofer runs.
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post #364 of 3067 Old 06-03-2011, 04:29 PM
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Love those hemmed edges...

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post #365 of 3067 Old 06-03-2011, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

What type of system did you get?

Hey Mario,

I have something like this, except the pipe exits my house in the basement ceiling and then runs up the side of the house covered in liter pipe (so it looks like a drain) up past the roof


I suppose your levels aren't dangerous for a non-smoker (myself as well), I am just a bit of a worrier especially for a part of the house I plan to spend a considerable amount of time in.
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post #366 of 3067 Old 06-04-2011, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Larry,

Thanks for the info. I think what I'll do is wait till the basement is finished and see what the levels are at. Once the walls are spray foamed, the house will be more air tight which would probably increase the levels. The good thing is it looks like it could be easily done even when the entire basement is finished. I've seen applications that require you to spray the cement which was why I moved the priority level on this issue up to the top. Once carpet and tile is layed...there is no going back. But it appears you've had great success with the venting system without actually treating the basement concrete with anything.
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post #367 of 3067 Old 06-04-2011, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Ted,

Glad you chimed in. I'm just wondering how to handle the supply vents going into the room. Originally I think we planned to use hat channel all around the OSB/Drywall/GG enclosure. I'm just wondering if it's necessary if I keep the enclosure separated from the DD/GG ceiling and just poke the supply vent through leaving a 1/4" gap to caulk around.

Here are some illustrations that hopefully will help you see what I'm referring too. Not I have plenty of space vertically. The supply vent runs in the floor joist and then drops down into the soffit. So vertically there's almost 24".

Vent Enclosed with OSB/Drywall/GG and decoupled with Clips and Channel. Bottom layer of Enclosure shares the same drywall as the ceiling:




Vent Enclosed with OSB/Drywall/GG. Enclosure is elevated just above DD/GG ceiling:
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post #368 of 3067 Old 06-05-2011, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Here's a question regarding sound proofing the whole house ceiling speakers in the basement. I plan to insulate inbetween the joists between floors. But was planning on building backer boxes for the speakers. Someone had told me that this would make the ceiling speakers sound worse and reduce the bass. I thought the opposite would have been true and that the speakers would sound better enclosed in a box. Can anyone else comment? I'd like to be able to have the rec room speakers on to a moderate level without disturbing anyone upstairs.
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post #369 of 3067 Old 06-05-2011, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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What depth door are most of you using for the door in your theater? Is a 1 3/4" solid core wood door sufficient? Anyone know if these are readily available from HomeDepot, Lowes or Menard's? If not, I may need to get an order in soon to keep the project on schedule.
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post #370 of 3067 Old 06-05-2011, 07:09 PM
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The door slab is half the equation. The seals are the other. Are you planning tight seals all around? It's not all that easy.
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post #371 of 3067 Old 06-05-2011, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks DavidK442,

I thought the same thing with the exterior insulated door since I know my garage entry door does a good job of deadening the sound when the cars running in there. But I thought I was advised by the Sound Proofing company not to use that and go with solid core door instead.

Lowe's did have 1 3/4" flush slab 36" door that was layered MDF with a wood veneer on the outside. From my research this seems to be the route to go. The Lowe's guy thought it would be better than their 6 panel solid core Fir door.
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post #372 of 3067 Old 06-05-2011, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post

The door slab is half the equation. The seals are the other. Are you planning tight seals all around? It's not all that easy.

I guess I hadn't gotten that far. I hadn't done any research on how they are integrated...but plan on using the Sound Proofing Door Stops and Door Bottom for the primary door to the theater.
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post #373 of 3067 Old 06-05-2011, 08:48 PM
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Mario, I had similar concerns about soundproofing for in-ceiling speakers. I first thought about building some big backing boxes for the in-ceilings. I reconsidered after thinking a bit more about layout. The solution I think I decided on was to install the speakers into soffits that will be built and attached after the soundproofing is complete.
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post #374 of 3067 Old 06-06-2011, 05:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post
Most in-wall speakers are "Infinite Baffle" designs. Their suspension and motor structure assumes that air pressure changes will not influence the speaker's operating parameters. A large enough box will essentially provide an infinite baffle. The definition of "large enough" depends on the size of the speaker but off the top of my head I would say 1.5 cubic feet for a 6" driver and 2.5 for an 8". If you are trying to squeeze that kind of volume out of a wall cavity the box is going to be huge, but assuming you have 10" or 12" floor joists it shouldn't be too bad. As most smaller speakers in a home theater setup are crossed over around 80hz anyway you might be able to go a bit smaller without causing a resonance in the upper bass to midbass. Regardless, it generally helps to lightly stuff the box with a low density fiber fill. (The guts out of an old cheap quilt works great). It would be an easy experiment to box one and leave the other in the ceiling then switch back and forth. As you said, you might actually prefer the boxed one.
Thanks for the info. The floor joists are 16" on center. They added 3/4" plywood along one side to prevent a little bounciness in the floor above so I lost a little space. But I could certainly build a 2' wide by the joist space box and then line it. I built boxes for all my first floor ceiling speakers before they drywalled when I built. But I never had a chance to do a true a/b test.
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post #375 of 3067 Old 06-06-2011, 05:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffm13 View Post
Mario, I had similar concerns about soundproofing for in-ceiling speakers. I first thought about building some big backing boxes for the in-ceilings. I reconsidered after thinking a bit more about layout. The solution I think I decided on was to install the speakers into soffits that will be built and attached after the soundproofing is complete.
Yeah - unfortunately I'm not going to the same lengths of sound proofing as the theater in the other rooms of the house. For my future office, I may just move the speakers into the walls. Our Master Bedroom is just above and my wife likes her sleep.
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post #376 of 3067 Old 06-06-2011, 01:12 PM
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FWIW, here's my radon experience:

Before finishing the basement, I used a passive, charcoal test and the results were 8.0 pCi/L. I thought, "Hmmm. That's not good." So I got a consumer-grade plug-in active model and let it run for several weeks. I think the lowest average reading was around 10 and the highest (cough, cough) was 21. So I decided to seal up every hole (sump pump, shower drain rough-in pit, crawl space) with 16 mil poly and caulk around the entire slab perimeter with elastomeric sealant. Much to my surprise, the sealing effects were disappointingly negligible.

So, I had a single, active remediation kit installed ($800) near the sump and through the existing 60s-era drain tile.

Readings immediately dropped to an average of 2.4 pCi/L.

Breathing much easier now ....
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post #377 of 3067 Old 06-06-2011, 08:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roknrol View Post

FWIW, here's my radon experience:

Before finishing the basement, I used a passive, charcoal test and the results were 8.0 pCi/L. I thought, "Hmmm. That's not good." So I got a consumer-grade plug-in active model and let it run for several weeks. I think the lowest average reading was around 10 and the highest (cough, cough) was 21. So I decided to seal up every hole (sump pump, shower drain rough-in pit, crawl space) with 16 mil poly and caulk around the entire slab perimeter with elastomeric sealant. Much to my surprise, the sealing effects were disappointingly negligible.

So, I had a single, active remediation kit installed ($800) near the sump and through the existing 60s-era drain tile.

Readings immediately dropped to an average of 2.4 pCi/L.

Breathing much easier now ....

Thanks for the info. I'm just glad this part of the process won't hold up the entire project and I can tackle that afterwards. It's great to hear real world results.
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post #378 of 3067 Old 06-06-2011, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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They started framing the interior walls of the theater today. The walls are connected to the soffit with IB-3 clips from the Soundproofing Company. The studs are staggered and spaced an inch apart from the other wall.



Once they finish the inside perimeter. They'll probably build the platform to raise the lower level up by 5 3/4". I've decide to just leave the space underneath void incase of flooding.

I may be able to make it into a bass trap ... but I'm going to have to do more research in that area to see how I would handle that.
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post #379 of 3067 Old 06-06-2011, 08:51 PM
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For your other rooms, use in-ceiling speakers that are already made with back boxes such as Triad. Lots to choose from with a large range of prices and applications for everyone/thing...!

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post #380 of 3067 Old 06-08-2011, 07:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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For your other rooms, use in-ceiling speakers that are already made with back boxes such as Triad. Lots to choose from with a large range of prices and applications for everyone/thing...!

Great idea. Do these typically have as good or better sound than ones that are not enclosed?
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post #381 of 3067 Old 06-08-2011, 07:07 AM - Thread Starter
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The walls are completed and they started on the raising the lower level up.

The front row seating, D-Box platform, stairs and front stage will all be built upon this raised level.

Anyone know how to turn this space into a bass trap?





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post #382 of 3067 Old 06-08-2011, 07:14 AM
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Mario, it's more risky to have the ventilation running through the joists. A soffit muffler will be decoupled from the framing, as would a Dead Vent. The joist muffler is not able to be decoupled because of the space limitations in the joist cavity.

The door of choice is a sealed, solid core door, not an exterior foam-filled door.

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post #383 of 3067 Old 06-08-2011, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

The walls are completed and they started on the raising the lower level up.

The front row seating, D-Box platform, stairs and front stage will all be built upon this raised level.

Anyone know how to turn this space into a bass trap?






What is the height difference from the lower (raised level) to the upper level?
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post #384 of 3067 Old 06-08-2011, 01:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Larry,

It should be about 11 1/2" between the two levels.
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post #385 of 3067 Old 06-08-2011, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Great idea. Do these typically have as good or better sound than ones that are not enclosed?

Triad makes amazing speakers. Their in-wall and in-ceiling speakers are suppose to sound exactly the same as their comparable in-room speakers. that is huge IMO.

Check out the Triad thread in the speaker section and ask Paul any questions, he will give you an extremely honest anwser without any sale pitches at ALL....!

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post #386 of 3067 Old 06-08-2011, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Mario, it's more risky to have the ventilation running through the joists. A soffit muffler will be decoupled from the framing, as would a Dead Vent. The joist muffler is not able to be decoupled because of the space limitations in the joist cavity.

The door of choice is a sealed, solid core door, not an exterior foam-filled door.

Ted,

I spoke with John Hile and he thought this might work just as well...but I'd like your input. Here's a diagram that shows what John and I discussed.

I have enough room in my soffit (below the joists) to build it 12" x 12" DD/GG enclosure for the supply and still keep it rigidly attached and hanging above the rooms OSB/Drywall/GG. Only the right side will be roughly a 1/4" away from the first layer of OSB in the room and sealed with acoustic sealant.

NOTE: This image doesn't show the DD/GG around the bottom side of the enclosure, but it would be built that way.
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post #387 of 3067 Old 06-08-2011, 04:35 PM - Thread Starter
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They finished adding two layers of 3/4" OSB on to the raised lower level. We opted to put a zillion screws into it and liquid nails in between the layers.



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post #388 of 3067 Old 06-09-2011, 09:40 AM
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Hi Mario,

I'll reply to your email if that's OK

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post #389 of 3067 Old 06-09-2011, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Larry,

It should be about 11 1/2" between the two levels.

Ok that is perfect!
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post #390 of 3067 Old 06-09-2011, 02:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm trying to make sure I get all the wiring I'll need into the room before insulation goes into the walls.

I was going to home run everything back to the Theater Rack in the other room, but I'm thinking I may terminate the speakers and possibly subwoofers inside the theater so I can perform the Audyssey calibration. They don't recommend extending the mic more than 25 ft which is going to be a problem in my case. It's really going to stink unconnecting everything in the rack though every time I want to do a calibration. Wondering if others have had the same issue and how they tackled it.

Do I need to home run every Subwoofer RG6 run to the theater rack or do I really just need two RG6 from the Amp to the theater room...then pick the appropriate RG6 to connect to?

Can anyone think of anything I may have missed?

Wiring into Theater Room
Subwoofer - Front Wall / Split for Two RG6
Subwoofer - Left Side Column RG6
Subwoofer - Right Side Column RG6
Subwoofer - Rear Right Column RG6
Subwoofer - Rear Left Column RG6
Speaker: Front Right 12 AWG
Speaker: Front Left 12 AWG
Speaker: Front Center 12 AWG
Speaker Surround Back Right 12 AWG
Speaker Surround Back Left 12 AWG
Speaker: Surround Right 12 AWG
Speaker: Surround Left 12 AWG
Speaker: Front High Right 12 AWG
Speaker: Front High Left 12 AWG
Speaker: Front Wide Right 12 AWG
Speaker: Front Wide Left 12 AWG
Projector HMDI
Projector Cat5 Serial Control
Projector Cat5 Future Network Connectivity
Projector (3) Cat6 Future Video Proofing
Projector 1/8" Stereo 12 volt Trigger
Entry Wall 22/4 Occupancy Sensor
Behind False Wall Cat5 IR Distribution
Behind False Wall Cat5 Future Proofing
Inside Wall or Column 18/2 Thermostat Temp Sensor
Inside Wall or Column 3.5mm Extender For Audyssey Calibration
D-Box Platform Cat5
Front Row Seating 12 AWG Butt Kicker
Back Row Seating 12 AWG Butt Kicker
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