The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 3081 Old 10-11-2011, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I went with the John Mansville brand and I paid $7.20 per 2x4 board, plus no shipping. I'll PM you the name and address of the place when I'm on my home computer.

Wow. That's a fantastic deal.
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post #722 of 3081 Old 10-11-2011, 07:49 AM - Thread Starter
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The first steps are taking shape. A little challenging bending a 1x12!



I'm going to fill the inside with insulation. The top will be treated with two layers of 3/4" OSB. We'll be putting 1/4" MDF on the face of the stair with finishing nails and a bull nose edge using 3/4" MDF and a 1/2" MDF combined and routed.

The next step top will be completely MDF. I like the contrast of the carpeting and the solid material on the steps. Hopefully that will also make it less dangerous when navigating the theater in the dark. I should be able to route LED lights underneath the bull nose of each step. They'll be plugged in behind the front row seats.
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post #723 of 3081 Old 10-11-2011, 09:40 AM
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very encouraging! Stay at it!

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post #724 of 3081 Old 10-11-2011, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

The first steps are taking shape. A little challenging bending a 1x12!



I'm going to fill the inside with insulation. The top will be treated with two layers of 3/4" OSB. We'll be putting 1/4" MDF on the face of the stair with finishing nails and a bull nose edge using 3/4" MDF and a 1/2" MDF combined and routed.

The next step top will be completely MDF. I like the contrast of the carpeting and the solid material on the steps. Hopefully that will also make it less dangerous when navigating the theater in the dark. I should be able to route LED lights underneath the bull nose of each step. They'll be plugged in behind the front row seats.

MDF as the top of the stair?
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post #725 of 3081 Old 10-11-2011, 05:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll be using 3/4" MDF (that will be painted black) for the bull nose on each step. The front stage and one step will have MDF on the TOP walking surface per my renderings.



The carpenters recommended that since it was going to be painted black anyways as opposed to using wood. I was thinking the columns would also be made out of MDF.

Any downsides to this theory?
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post #726 of 3081 Old 10-11-2011, 05:49 PM
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I personally would use a hardwood for the bullnose. I have concerns over whether or not the bullnose on an mdf sheet would stand the test of time.

It certainly would route a lot easier.. but given all the time/money/energy spent on everything else, I would go with oak.

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post #727 of 3081 Old 10-11-2011, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I'll be using 3/4" MDF (that will be painted black) for the bull nose on each step. The front stage and one step will have MDF on the TOP walking surface per my renderings.

The carpenters recommended that since it was going to be painted black anyways as opposed to using wood. I was thinking the columns would also be made out of MDF.

Any downsides to this theory?

MDF is a great material, but I would never imagine using it for something that might have foot traffic on it. IMO it is too soft and I don't know how the paint/stain will hold up. I guess I would use oak as a common wood even though I don't like oak's markings...maple or birch as inexpensive wood will be nice

Columns out of MDF are fine BTW
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post #728 of 3081 Old 10-11-2011, 07:22 PM
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Definitely don't use MDF for places with foot traffic. It wears really easily. When painting MDF, it takes a lot of coats because it just soaks into it.. and still still doesn't turn out that great.
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post #729 of 3081 Old 10-11-2011, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by w1retap View Post

Definitely don't use MDF for places with foot traffic. It wears really easily. When painting MDF, it takes a lot of coats because it just soaks into it.. and still still doesn't turn out that great.

+1. I can't believe they said mdf would be fine. It will dent the first time someone kicks it or drops anything on it. I use it all the time for speaker cabinets and know the dangers or a little too much pressure and the effects it has on the mdf.
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post #730 of 3081 Old 10-12-2011, 03:50 AM
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I would second maple. Expensive, but very nice grain.
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post #731 of 3081 Old 10-12-2011, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I would second maple. Expensive, but very nice grain.

I find it not priced too bad; it seems to be in the middle between oak and the imported woods with a great grain.

Looking at the amount he needs, it won't break the bank too much vs. MDF
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post #732 of 3081 Old 10-12-2011, 05:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. That's what's great about this forum. Just diverted a potential disaster.

I'll check out the 3/4" wood stock at Menard's today. Oak is really only 30% more than MDF. Maple appears to be almost 3x but probably would suit my needs better and would see less grain when painted black.
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post #733 of 3081 Old 10-12-2011, 02:34 PM
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If you're going to sand, prime, and spray a couple of coats of good-quality latex, I wouldn't think the grain of the oak would show through. Oak would definitely hold up to the wear and tear; maple is a little hard to come by from the big box stores, but your region may be different.
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post #734 of 3081 Old 10-12-2011, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by roknrol View Post

If you're going to sand, prime, and spray a couple of coats of good-quality latex, I wouldn't think the grain of the oak would show through. Oak would definitely hold up to the wear and tear; maple is a little hard to come by from the big box stores, but your region may be different.

You should fill the pores prior to priming if you are going to paint it.
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post #735 of 3081 Old 10-15-2011, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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You should fill the pores prior to priming if you are going to paint it.

What do they use to fill the pores?
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post #736 of 3081 Old 10-15-2011, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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They made some progress on the front stage today. Next step...steps!




I think I'm going to order sand bags from Lowe's and have them deliver it for $20. Hopefully they can deliver some dry sand. Is 6 mil plastic ok to use within the stage joists?
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post #737 of 3081 Old 10-15-2011, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

What do they use to fill the pores?

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post #738 of 3081 Old 10-15-2011, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post


What do they use to fill the pores?

I have used wood filler successfully followed by a really good filler primer or sealcoat. It may take several applications and sanding to get it really good and smooth so a good hard maple may be a better alternative and use BIM primer prior to painting. Make sure you use a good paint that will stand the test of time. Probably an oil based paint or a good acrylic from Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams.
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post #739 of 3081 Old 10-15-2011, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btinindy View Post

I have used wood filler successfully followed by a really good filler primer or sealcoat. It may take several applications and sanding to get it really good and smooth so a good hard maple may be a better alternative and use BIM primer prior to painting. Make sure you use a good paint that will stand the test of time. Probably an oil based paint or a good acrylic from Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams.

(cough) Benjamin Moore (cough)
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post #740 of 3081 Old 10-17-2011, 07:00 AM
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Hey Mario - yes, 6 mil plastic is the way to go for the stage joists. Looking good!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #741 of 3081 Old 10-17-2011, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mcascio View Post


I'll check out the 3/4" wood stock at Menard's today. Oak is really only 30% more than MDF. Maple appears to be almost 3x but probably would suit my needs better and would see less grain when painted black.

+1.. Maple is actually slightly harder than both red and white oaks and wont require as much prep work for a paint finish

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post #742 of 3081 Old 10-17-2011, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

What do they use to fill the pores?

To fill wood pores using shellac or lacquer, you have to apply many coats -- 10 or 12 -- and then sand most of it away. Basically, you're building up shellac in the pores and sanding it away in other areas, until the entire surface is smooth. It takes a long time and makes a mess. It can be worth the trouble if you're going for a mirror finish that highlights the grain of the wood. There's no reason you couldn't use the same process under paint, but there are easier alternatives.

If you're going to paint the wood, any decent filler can be used to fill the wood pores, so long as the filler dries hard. Since the wood is going to be painted, you don't care about whether the filler looks like wood -- which opens the door to some better products, I think. I happen to prefer a product I buy at an auto paint store. It's a lacquer-based body filler sold in a tube like a big tube of toothpaste. It is easy to apply with a flexible putty knife, it dries very fast, it sands pretty well, and it won't shrink. I have also used Bondo with good results.

Whatever paint you use, it is highly unlikely it will stand up to foot traffic unless you put a couple of layers of clear top coat over it. I would strongly encourage you to use a top coat made for finishing wood floors. Here's an example from a manufacturer I like:



Link: http://www.woodessence.com/WFF2000-W...nish-P132.aspx

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post #743 of 3081 Old 10-17-2011, 08:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the responses.

I'll probably be going with Oak since it's readily available and on sale at Menard's.

More exciting progress tonight as the next steps were put in on the riser and the front stage.











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post #744 of 3081 Old 10-17-2011, 09:26 PM
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Really starting to take shape, keep the updates a coming!

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post #745 of 3081 Old 10-18-2011, 03:29 AM
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What did you make the DBox platform out of? It looks like the Bosch Rex Roth stuff.
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post #746 of 3081 Old 10-18-2011, 04:09 AM
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Really Really coming along nicely. I like the design and color scheme quite a bit. What camera are you using to take the photos?
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post #747 of 3081 Old 10-18-2011, 06:31 AM
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Great work Mario!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #748 of 3081 Old 10-18-2011, 10:03 AM - Thread Starter
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What did you make the DBox platform out of? It looks like the Bosch Rex Roth stuff.

It was constructed out of T-Slots. I had a local company cut the pieces and pre-drill the holes for me. I'm not familiar with the Bosch stuff, but it's possible there are similar products and/or even sold under different names.
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post #749 of 3081 Old 10-18-2011, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Really Really coming along nicely. I like the design and color scheme quite a bit. What camera are you using to take the photos?

Thanks. I'm using a Canon EOS 50D.

Shouldn't be too much longer and I'll need to order the fabric for the walls. Then I'll truly be committed to the color scheme.
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post #750 of 3081 Old 10-18-2011, 10:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Great work Mario!

Looks like you're not too far behind.
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