The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 28 - AVS Forum
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post #811 of 3067 Old 10-29-2011, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Man. I'm still torn on Red Vs Black. Red seems to be the top contender here though. The red certainly adds something to the room and helps to draw the eye up.


I added the next two layers of recycled denim to the back wall this afternoon.


I aslo finished moving outlets in the soffit late last night and marked out their locations. I just need to figure out the moulding sizes I'll be using so I can spot where center will be.

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Originally Posted by jharri01 View Post

Here is a quick question for the group.

My current build is very similar to Mario's.
It is a dedicated room in the basement with no windows. There is insulation that will be behind the osb/green glue/drywall. Should I put bats of insulation on the one interior wall? The wall is shared with the basement game room. Will it cause more trouble than it is worth down the road?

I guess my question would be are trying to sound proof or are you thinking it's being used for acoustic reasons? I may be confused, but it sounds like your suggesting the insulation would be exposed to people in the room?
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post #812 of 3067 Old 10-30-2011, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Man. I'm still torn on Red Vs Black. Red seems to be the top contender here though. The red certainly adds something to the room and helps to draw the eye up.


I added the next two layers of recycled denim to the back wall this afternoon.


I aslo finished moving outlets in the soffit late last night and marked out their locations. I just need to figure out the moulding sizes I'll be using so I can spot where center will be.



I guess my question would be are trying to sound proof or are you thinking it's being used for acoustic reasons? I may be confused, but it sounds like your suggesting the insulation would be exposed to people in the room?

The room is being soundproofed almost identical to yours. The only interior wall is shared with the game room. It has normal istalation. Not worried about exposure to people.

My question centers more on the fact that I know that insulation adds minimum soundproofing, so should I go to the trouble of adding bats of insulation behind an interior wall that currently has none? The bats would be in-between the normal drywall and the osb/green glue/drywall in the theater.
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post #813 of 3067 Old 10-30-2011, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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post #814 of 3067 Old 10-31-2011, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_B View Post

The black makes the stars look more realistic.

True ... but the red is so luxe!
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post #815 of 3067 Old 11-02-2011, 05:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally finished cutting out all of the 4" can light holes. I used a dremel. After the first bit broke. I picked up some RotoZip bits and they seemed to cut much faster. Not sure if it was just the older bit or the brand.




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post #816 of 3067 Old 11-02-2011, 06:16 AM
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Looking good, one more vote RED. You can see it live in the Bacon Race thread.

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...p/DSC_0659.jpg
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post #817 of 3067 Old 11-02-2011, 07:05 AM
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Black, it gives the impression of more height in the room.
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post #818 of 3067 Old 11-02-2011, 12:21 PM
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Black. As everyone has said, it gives the illusion of more height.
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post #819 of 3067 Old 11-02-2011, 09:52 PM
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If you want to draw attention to the soffit, then make it red. If you want to draw more attention to the star field, make the soffit black. I personally think star ceilings are really fun and would want to showcase it more than the soffit.
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post #820 of 3067 Old 11-03-2011, 06:17 AM
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Sandman's Red doesn't distract me one bit

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post #821 of 3067 Old 11-03-2011, 07:33 AM
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Good point!
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post #822 of 3067 Old 11-03-2011, 07:45 AM
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A point of disclosure, I know that he was a master of stitching together multiple images for a good photo. The screen image was from a dark room for example. So I don't know about the star lights and their visibility with the lights on.
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post #823 of 3067 Old 11-03-2011, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
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Sandman's Red doesn't distract me one bit

Me neither. A total non-issue once the lights are off.

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post #824 of 3067 Old 11-04-2011, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Right now I'm leaning towards red. I like the idea of seeing the red when the lights are on...but it should pretty much disappear when the lights are off and attention is being drawn to the sky.

Speaking of sky. My father-in-law was over this morning putting on the first coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue. Turned out pretty good.





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post #825 of 3067 Old 11-04-2011, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Looking good, one more vote RED. You can see it live in the Bacon Race thread.

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...p/DSC_0659.jpg

Just stumbled onto that thread recently. You're doing a fanastic job!!! Looks great!
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post #826 of 3067 Old 11-09-2011, 03:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Not too much in terms of excitement here.

The 2nd coat of paint was applied to the sky ceiling.

I also put the back 4 cans in temporarily. I noticed the halogen spots do a much better job of lighting the floor than some incandescent floods. I have two of each in this photo. You can see which ones are the spots because of the washed out white on the floor.



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post #827 of 3067 Old 11-09-2011, 03:52 PM
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Looking good....

-Dave

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My Windows Media Center Blog...
http://mc.anywherecool.com/Blog/
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post #828 of 3067 Old 11-09-2011, 03:59 PM
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Very nice... Looking forward to seeing more...
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post #829 of 3067 Old 11-11-2011, 06:59 AM - Thread Starter
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I wired in the remaining cans temporarily and put 50 watt halogen spots in them.

The lighting worked out great where it lights up all the path ways for walking and in the back row it's just above the seating for any light reading.











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post #830 of 3067 Old 11-11-2011, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone ever try these speaker frames?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-346

I'm thinking of using them in the columns where I need to be able to access speakers. Just got one in today and it seems like it might work out pretty well.
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post #831 of 3067 Old 11-11-2011, 10:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

What! Halogens? Don't you know you are supposed to use non-dimming, sterile infirmary shining, mercury filled compact flourescents to save the world! A well thought out lighting plan...like everything else in your theater.

I was hoping there'd be some decent LED's available by the time I needed bulbs for the theater. I just haven't found any yet. I wish CREE made something affordable like their 6" CR6 LED can lights. They are on sale now at Home Depot for $39.99 plus our local Electric company is giving a $25 credit per LED.
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post #832 of 3067 Old 11-11-2011, 10:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I spent tonight terminating the patch panel in the theater. For those wondering, I ended up putting in this patch panel in case I had to move my Receiver into the theater room to do mic calibration with Audyssey. I'm hoping I don't and that my mic extension cable will work but at least I've got options.

The keystones are the feeds from the Theater Rack. Now I need to put banana jacks on the cable going into the theater. If I need to put the receiver in the theater for a quick calibration, I can quickly move the banana plugs from the patch panel and into the receiver.

I ended up being short a few keystones. Looks like I need to spend more money.









I also wired in some more Insteon Dimmers that will eventually be controlled by my automation system and tablet/remote/phone. I was anxious to see how the cans looked dimmed.
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post #833 of 3067 Old 11-12-2011, 09:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah. If anyone knows of any good dimmable LED's for 4" cans - please let us know. Otherwise I may need to stock pile some of the Par20 Halogen's. There's 16 in the room soffit alone which means if I don't have spares, when one goes, they all need to be replaced. I'd rather return the halogen's to recoup the expense and invest in something that works well now and will be available in the future.
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post #834 of 3067 Old 11-12-2011, 10:52 AM - Thread Starter
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I started playing around with column construction based upon materials I can actually buy vs. some random mouldings I found online months ago.

I've moved to a raised panel look which I think gives a bit more depth. However, I'm not too happy with the area between the columns. I think they are competing with the speaker columns. So I either need to offset them so they don't line up as close to the speaker columns or change the moulding itself to maybe something a bit less fancy.

I'm also thinking of using 3/4" MDF on the lower wall to create the paneled look. Any issues with this? I didn't think it would given the columns will be made from MDF.

Any thoughts?








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post #835 of 3067 Old 11-12-2011, 11:17 AM
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3/4 MDF works fine, I've found that putting on a quick coat of Minwax sanding sealer, then sanding will give a better finish than just priming and painting the MDF, use a dark tinted primer.

I like your design.
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post #836 of 3067 Old 11-12-2011, 12:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

3/4 MDF works fine, I've found that putting on a quick coat of Minwax sanding sealer, then sanding will give a better finish than just priming and painting the MDF, use a dark tinted primer.

I like your design.

Perfect. Thanks for the expert advice.

Regarding the columns. Carpet will come after the columns are in place. Should I elevate the columns 3/4" off the ground or just rest the MDF right on the concrete? I'm currently planning on a 1/2" pad and the Masland carpet.
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post #837 of 3067 Old 11-12-2011, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Perfect. Thanks for the expert advice.

Regarding the columns. Carpet will come after the columns are in place. Should I elevate the columns 3/4" off the ground or just rest the MDF right on the concrete? I'm currently planning on a 1/2" pad and the Masland carpet.

I would lay the baseboard molding after the carpet therefore it would be ok to put the MDF right to the ground.

Curious about the carpet, does it go right on top of the concrete?
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post #838 of 3067 Old 11-12-2011, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I was hoping there'd be some decent LED's available by the time I needed bulbs for the theater. I just haven't found any yet. I wish CREE made something affordable like their 6" CR6 LED can lights. They are on sale now at Home Depot for $39.99 plus our local Electric company is giving a $25 credit per LED.

Just saw these at Lowes today. They had a display booth with the lights on a dimmer. 4-6"

http://www.lowes.com/pd_78215-3-7064...hts&facetInfo=
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post #839 of 3067 Old 11-12-2011, 04:59 PM
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Just saw these at Lowes today. They had a display booth with the lights on a dimmer. 4-6"

http://www.lowes.com/pd_78215-3-7064...hts&facetInfo=

$49.98 at my Lowes....eek...!!

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post #840 of 3067 Old 11-12-2011, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

I would lay the baseboard molding after the carpet therefore it would be ok to put the MDF right to the ground.

Curious about the carpet, does it go right on top of the concrete?

I don't think I would put MDF right on top of concrete. It, just like drywall, can absorb moisture from the concrete. I'd try and keep if off the ground 1/2" or so.

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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