The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I haven't gotten into the theater tonight. But here's some progress from last night.

I built a speaker frame out of a speaker frame kit from Parts-Express. I removed the nubs on the back that fit into the female socket fittings. The sockets seemed like it was going to be challenging to get the grills in and out. So instead I'm using magnets to attach the frame.

The frame certainly took some time and I have to believe there's a faster way. Was thinking of a metal bar on the top wrapped in the GOM and then another metal bar to add some weight to the bottom. Then magnets would hold the material taught vertically both at the top and bottom. My concern with this method is the edges may not always look taught over time unless they are attached to something and could possibly get snagged or frayed over time.

Any one else try the gravity method with magnets.

Overall the parts-express kit was easy to work with. I initially made some cuts with a hacksaw, but then just used a table saw for more precise straight cuts. The frame was hot glued together and then the material applied using hot glue. You really just need to take your time with the hot glue and keep pulling the material so it has a smooth edge. I started with the corners. Going from one diagnol to the other and then working towards the middle.

One thing I'll be doing with the next frame is adding the provided supports that the kit comes with in the middle. I can see a bit of bowing in the frame. It was most likely from me pulling the GOM to tight on the plastic frame. So next one, I'll be a little less agressive. I'll probably slip a small piece of black velcro on the bottom of the speaker frame against the fabric so I can pull the frame off the column easily.

Right now, I have screws attached into the back of the speaker frame that line up with the magnets in the female socket fittings within the column. I think I'll switch that around and put the screw in magnets on the frame and just a piece of metal in the column. Requires less presicion and lining up screw to magnet.











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Old 11-23-2011, 07:20 PM
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You probably could get away with just friction fit frames. People do it for entire front screen wall, your speaker frames should hold in place.

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Old 11-23-2011, 07:47 PM
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Mario,

Where did you get your speaker fabric from? I looked at parts express, but some reviews stated the cheaper one it's not exactly black, thanks!
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Guys.

Thanks for all the great advice. My father-in-law seems comfortable with the bondo. So I think we'll try that on the edges. Then use sanding sealer on the entire unit along with sanding.

Larry,
I actually intended on going a bit fancier with the trim. But I had quite a bit left over from the basement that I decided to use that instead of just throwing it away. Otherwise, I would have gone with a slightly taller base and more decorative.

I can solve your problem then...use the base up side down on your ceiling and then mount your crown molding to that.

It will look really nice

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Old 11-23-2011, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry M View Post


I can solve your problem then...use the base up side down on your ceiling and then mount your crown molding to that.

It will look really nice

Have that thru out my house now, gives a nice clean look and a lot bigger crown appearance too.

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Old 11-24-2011, 12:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TheaterChad View Post

Mario,

Where did you get your speaker fabric from? I looked at parts express, but some reviews stated the cheaper one it's not exactly black, thanks!

I'm using GOM fabric. I modified the speaker kit frame from Parts Express. I've got samples of speaker fabric from parts express. The premium is nice...but has a sheen. In the end I preferred the black GOM since it was darker and would blend with the red GOM I'm using on the side walls.
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I can solve your problem then...use the base up side down on your ceiling and then mount your crown molding to that.

It will look really nice

I like it. We did that in our dining room. Im also using the base on the ceiling soffit. I'll have to see how much I have left. Also, I'll have to match the same height since I've already cut the speaker column holes and I have the chair rail and base symetrical. Thanks for encouraging me to spend more money.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I like it. We did that in our dining room. Im also using the base on the ceiling soffit. I'll have to see how much I have left. Also, I'll have to match the same height since I've already cut the speaker column holes and I have the chair rail and base symetrical. Thanks for encouraging me to spend more money.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone

Isn't that what we're all here for, to help each other...spend more money

Someone has to bring the economy out of this rut...it might as well start here

BTW did you purchase your screen yet? I'm on the fence between SE 4K or an SMX
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:53 AM
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I don't think it'll do much, but if you have extra dark paint left over, you can paint the inside of your columns.
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tbraden32 View Post

You probably could get away with just friction fit frames. People do it for entire front screen wall, your speaker frames should hold in place.

Actually, they would probably would just stay in there with my current design. I'll try removing the magnets and see.
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone

Isn't that what we're all here for, to help each other...spend more money

Someone has to bring the economy out of this rut...it might as well start here

BTW did you purchase your screen yet? I'm on the fence between SE 4K or an SMX

I've certainly been doing my part between the theater and the entire basement. Most of the people I hired were out of work or had hit a very slow period. Menards, Home Depot and Lowes have certainly excercised my wallet too.

Maybe AVS should change this section of the forum from Dedicated Theater Design & Construction to "Economy Stimulus".

I'm planning to go with the Seymour AT screen.


In the spirit of progress, I ripped down some of the MDF last night and broke out the jig saw. Have almost two more of the columns ready for assembly.

I don't know if it's realistic, but my goal is to have the theater done by the Superbowl. I may have to develop a concrete schedule in order to keep myself on pace. I'll have to see how long carpet will take. That alone might need to be ordered 6 weeks ahead of time.
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

I don't think it'll do much, but if you have extra dark paint left over, you can paint the inside of your columns.

Hey Larry,

What would that be for? More stimulus?

When the columns are against the wall, you can't see through the GOM fabric.
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Hey Larry,

What would that be for? More stimulus?

When the columns are against the wall, you can't see through the GOM fabric.

I work for Benjamin Moore so every gallon counts :-)
But in all seriousness I wasn't sure if with the lights on you could see through the GOM

What does GOM feel like?
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:39 PM - Thread Starter
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That's what I was thinking when you wrote that. I remembered you work for Benjamin Moore.

It's kind of like burlap. Initially I wasn't sold on it. But it seems durable, fire retardant and will match the other GOM color. I'm happy I went with it.
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Old 11-24-2011, 02:32 PM
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Hi Mcascio,

I'm loving your build, the renderings look great. I was looking at the picture of your bulkhead/light tray and it looks like its only a 2x4's width from the ceiling? What pot lights did you use that require such a shallow enclosure? The smallest lights I've found require 4 inches, but you seem to be at about 3.5 inches, correct?

I apologize is that's be discussed earlier in the thread, I tried to look for it, but didn't have any luck.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I used Juno 4" Air Tight housing. I couldn't have any light leaking up into the ceiling from the back sides of the enclosure.

I went with these from Lowe's:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_90674-38269-...ght&facetInfo=

They are taller than 3.5". I'd have to double check, but they may require 5.75" above the tray. I plan to disguise them though with crown moulding.

I would have preferred a 3" can, but couldn't find anything airtight.
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Old 11-25-2011, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Worked in the theater until about 2am last night getting a total of 5 columns cut up for assembly. Was a little slow after all that Turkey.

I noticed my jig saw started straying a bit even along the straight edge. Do these blades eventually get bent or worn which would cause this? Or perhaps it was fatigue setting in.

I was using the T101B Clean blade that I purchased. But then moved back to the T144DP Precision blade that came with the Bosch. That one seemed to cut as clean and faster anyways.

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Old 11-25-2011, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Worked in the theater until about 2am last night getting a total of 5 columns cut up for assembly. Was a little slow after all that Turkey.

I noticed my jig saw started straying a bit even along the straight edge. Do these blades eventually get bent or worn which would cause this? Or perhaps it was fatigue setting in.

I was using the T101B Clean blade that I purchased. But then moved back to the T144DP Precision blade that came with the Bosch. That one seemed to cut as clean and faster anyways.

Wow, that is dedication!

With straight cuts there should not be a lot of bent blades. Sometimes if you are doing continuous cutting the blades do get too hot and can warp. You may want to let a blade cool after a longer cut.

The T308B is by far the best jigsaw blade for cutting wood. Very clean cuts can be achieved with this blade. They really are thy much better and I highly recommend them and use them exclusively.
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Old 11-25-2011, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
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Wow, that is dedication!

With straight cuts there should not be a lot of bent blades. Sometimes if you are doing continuous cutting the blades do get too hot and can warp. You may want to let a blade cool after a longer cut.

The T308B is by far the best jigsaw blade for cutting wood. Very clean cuts can be achieved with this blade. They really are thy much better and I highly recommend them and use them exclusively.

Thanks I just added them to my Amazon cart :-)
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Old 11-25-2011, 04:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow, that is dedication!

With straight cuts there should not be a lot of bent blades. Sometimes if you are doing continuous cutting the blades do get too hot and can warp. You may want to let a blade cool after a longer cut.

The T308B is by far the best jigsaw blade for cutting wood. Very clean cuts can be achieved with this blade. They really are thy much better and I highly recommend them and use them exclusively.

I'm guessing they may have gotten too hot and possibly warped. Not noticable though to the naked eye. I do have a T308B from the multipurpose 10 pack I bought so i'll try using that one next. And take some breaks in between cutting. I was on overdrive. Setting a Superbowl deadline really gets me motivated.
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Old 11-26-2011, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
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I'm guessing they may have gotten too hot and possibly warped. Not noticable though to the naked eye. I do have a T308B from the multipurpose 10 pack I bought so i'll try using that one next. And take some breaks in between cutting. I was on overdrive. Setting a Superbowl deadline really gets me motivated.

This is exactly what happens, the blades get very hot, and they get weak and bend then their toast, I used an adjustable air hose to blow air on the blade as I'm cutting, I ended up buying a Dewalt Track Saw ( plunge type skill saw ) that plunges into the material, where you can make long straight cuts and plunge / remove the blade up to the corner of your pockets, then just use the jig saw to clean up the corners, the moldings will cover the rest, but the Dewalt Track saw is like 550 bucks.

Columns are looking nice! Where did you get your speaker fabric GOM / sound deadening materials? I'm looking to do the same thing in my corners like you did, I ordering several of those same bar stools & a pub table, Keep up the awesome work!
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:03 PM
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Mario - are your columns layers of MDF thick? The smaller ones look that way? Any reason?

[/quote]

Mike
Started the build...Theater With A View
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Old 11-26-2011, 10:59 PM
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Those are the different pieces. The ones on the right are the sides of the columns stacked up, the one on the far left is a completed column, the ones in the middle are the front pieces stacked up. I think he said he was using 3/4" MDF, but don't quote me on that.
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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This is exactly what happens, the blades get very hot, and they get weak and bend then their toast, I used an adjustable air hose to blow air on the blade as I'm cutting, I ended up buying a Dewalt Track Saw ( plunge type skill saw ) that plunges into the material, where you can make long straight cuts and plunge / remove the blade up to the corner of your pockets, then just use the jig saw to clean up the corners, the moldings will cover the rest, but the Dewalt Track saw is like 550 bucks.

Columns are looking nice! Where did you get your speaker fabric GOM / sound deadening materials? I'm looking to do the same thing in my corners like you did, I ordering several of those same bar stools & a pub table, Keep up the awesome work!

The Dewalt sounds really nice!

The GOM for speaker fabric is from Fabricmate. The recycled denim I ordered from a local reseller of the Titus product. I posted a link in an earlier post but let me know if you need me to track it down. The 2" OC703 was ordered from Ats Acoustics. I found out later I could have gotten it much cheaper from a local vendor.

When I assembled the bar stools, I was careful not to over tighten. But after our field test of having friends over, several stools were loose. I just may need to give them a little more torque.
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTR7 View Post

Those are the different pieces. The ones on the right are the sides of the columns stacked up, the one on the far left is a completed column, the ones in the middle are the front pieces stacked up. I think he said he was using 3/4" MDF, but don't quote me on that.

JTR7 is correct.
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Old 11-27-2011, 05:03 AM - Thread Starter
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I assembled 3 more columns yesterday. Pictures to follow. I've discovered quality control goes out the window after 4 nights of working late and getting only 3 or 4 hours sleep in a row. I accidenatally dropped a column side template off the horse and cracked it. A liitle dissapointed in myself. So then I started using clamps for guard rails. Turns out the night before I had accidentally created two extra side columns by mistake. Even though I must have verified my numbers 10x and even wrote down what I needed on a plan. So I guess I was in luck. Until I accidentally drilled my Kreg jig holes on the wrong side. That used up all my spares. I had one template left, but I had gone into assembly mode the night before and predrilled holes in two of the corners in the lower half of the column. I had just planned to fill them with bondo. I then decided I needed to turn in for the night.

This begs the question. Should I cut holes in the lower half of the sides of the column (where the moulding is going) to improve sound? I'm planning on filling the lower half of he speaker columns with OC about 4-8" thick.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are a few shots from yesterday's work.

I placed the columns against the wall, but two of them are not actually where they are going. The one will be taller, and the one near the back wall will be shallower.









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Old 11-27-2011, 12:04 PM
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Here are a few shots from yesterday's work.

I placed the columns against the wall, but two of them are not actually where they are going. The one will be taller, and the one near the back wall will be shallower.

Looks great...my only complaint is all the Craftsman power tools, I like their hand tools, but IMO their power tools are terrible.
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Old 11-27-2011, 12:21 PM
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Larry,

Here are some more shots of the bar area:



How do you feel about the 12" depth cabinets? Are you happy with the 13.5" counter top?
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Old 11-27-2011, 12:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Looks great...my only complaint is all the Craftsman power tools, I like their hand tools, but IMO their power tools are terrible.

Thanks Larry. I probably bought that compound mitre saw 10-12 years ago. I would be going with another brand if I needed a new one though.
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