The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 38 - AVS Forum
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post #1111 of 3155 Old 12-29-2011, 06:56 AM
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Which Kreg Jig system is everyone using?

I see they offer 4 or 5 versions ranging from $25 to $125
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post #1112 of 3155 Old 12-29-2011, 07:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Which Kreg Jig system is everyone using?

I see they offer 4 or 5 versions ranging from $25 to $125

I personally bought the K4 Master System.
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post #1113 of 3155 Old 12-29-2011, 12:28 PM
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Hi Mario - I saw your question in my thread and figured I'd respond here. I got my popcorn machine from www.foodservicewarehouse.com. They had great prices and free shipping. I just made my first batch of popcorn and it was easy and really really good. Here's a link to the particular machine I bought: http://www.foodservicewarehouse.com/...d/p379442.aspx

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #1114 of 3155 Old 12-29-2011, 01:39 PM
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If he is looking for a popcorn machine, there is also Deuster Company in Menlo Falls, Wisconsin to consider. They have quite a selection of popcorn machines and other various commercial vending supplies. And they might even be close enough to Mario's location in Kenosha, WI, that he could go over and view them in person.

http://www.deusterco.com/contents/en-us/d5.html


They also show that 4oz Gold Medal popper in red, for a lower price than your source.

http://www.deusterco.com/contents/en-us/d54.html
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post #1115 of 3155 Old 12-29-2011, 10:37 PM
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Most people who see my theater for the first time ask the same question: where is the popcorn machine? We have been reluctant to get one because we aren't sure we want greasy fingers on our nice leather recliners: especially "little greasy fingers" (those belonging to our 8-year-old and her friends).

So those with popcorn machines, what do you think? Does having popcorn in the theater cause a mess on the leather? Is it hard to keep things clean? Does it smell up the space? One of the selling points of my home theater is "just like a movie theater, but without the sticky floor." I'd like to keep it that way.
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post #1116 of 3155 Old 12-30-2011, 06:36 AM
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I have a popcorn machine and have learned a few lessons. If you are going to have a large commercial style popcorn machine you absolutely need and exhaust fan in the vicinity. I didn't and on my to do list is to punch a hole in the ceiling and add one. Now I have to stick a fan in a nearby window.

I have found that I use my microwave for personal use all the time rather than crank up the big one. I use the low fat healthier choices exclusively. A big popper is really designed to feed a lot of munchers with no concern for fat content and to add ambiance to the theater space.

If you are going to be entertaining a lot it would make sense.
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post #1117 of 3155 Old 12-30-2011, 06:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the references guys. I was reluctant to get a popcorn popper just because I didn't want to clean it up and I know the kids will want to use it every time. But my bro-in-law said it wasn't bad to clean up at all. So I'm reconsidering.

BigMouthinDC,
You mentioned needing to have a vent/fan nearby. Do these popcorn machines produce a lot of steam that would damage the drywall ceiling? I don't really have venting options being in the basement.
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post #1118 of 3155 Old 12-30-2011, 07:05 AM
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Mario,

I think you said you were looking for a joiner, check out this link
http://slickdeals.net/f/3767374-Wood...mpaign=tu-9999
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post #1119 of 3155 Old 12-30-2011, 07:06 AM - Thread Starter
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I don't see myself being done with the room by the Superbowl. So my realistic goal is to be ready for painting and trim work by then.

To get ahead of the game, I had the room measured for carpet. She said it will take 10 - 14 days for delivery. I'm glad she did come over, because she mentioned that the way I'm running the carpet (sideways) and opposite of Ruben's theater, that the carpet doesn't bend or look as well over stairs because it opens the seem. Which probably explains why Ruben ran his the way he did.

I did some more renderings with the Masland carpet before my meeting with her and was liking it.




She brought over some black commercial carpet that may work well.

But I want to play with the idea of a small bull nose on the front of the stage with the Masland carpet first. I think a 3 1/2" bull nose like I use in the other areas might be a bit much. So I was thinking of rendering one at about 1 1/2" depth.

The other obstacle I realized is that I need to finish the edges of the carpet on the DBox platform and the carpet that surrounds it. They can sow a seamed edge so the carpet won't fray. Otherwise I'd have to build a frame out of oak that is 3/4" high that the carpet could run into. I think I'm leaning towards the seam. It will be much less conspicuous.
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post #1120 of 3155 Old 12-30-2011, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

BigMouthinDC,
You mentioned needing to have a vent/fan nearby. Do these popcorn machines produce a lot of steam that would damage the drywall ceiling? I don't really have venting options being in the basement.

If you've built a nice tight soundproofed space the smell is the first issue, steam and smoke is the second. I'm not sure how close your drywall ceiling is but after repeated use I image there would be a residue on the ceiling. As for venting options if you have access to the joist space you can put in a vent, You drill a hole in the rim joist and stick in an exhaust vent cover just like a dryer vent sticking out the side of the house.

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post #1121 of 3155 Old 12-30-2011, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

If you've built a nice tight soundproofed space the smell is the first issue, steam and smoke is the second. I'm not sure how close your drywall ceiling is but after repeated use I image there would be a residue on the ceiling. As for venting options if you have access to the joist space you can put in a vent, You drill a hole in the rim joist and stick in an exhaust vent cover just like a dryer vent sticking out the side of the house.


Maybe I can just put the popcorn machine in the bathroom shower. That room is already vented to the outside.
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post #1122 of 3155 Old 12-30-2011, 11:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Mario,

I think you said you were looking for a joiner, check out this link
http://slickdeals.net/f/3767374-Wood...mpaign=tu-9999

Good find. I was planning on going with the Kreg jig...but I may stop in HD just to see if they are still there at that price...just in case.
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post #1123 of 3155 Old 12-30-2011, 11:22 AM
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Wow. A popcorn stall with ventiation, fire supression availability with a drain. Pretty hi tech

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post #1124 of 3155 Old 12-30-2011, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Wow. A popcorn stall with ventiation, fire supression availability with a drain. Pretty hi tech

And don't forget that tantilizing popcorn fresh scent!
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post #1125 of 3155 Old 12-30-2011, 05:06 PM
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We have a popcorn machine and absolutely love it. It was located inside my v3.0 home theater, but with my current V4.0 theater build, it will be located outside of the theater. Too much steam (although, it can make for a nostalgic look with the appearance of "smoke" that the projected image shoots through), and it is just noisy and the light can be distracting. Oils/grease from it on the furniture has never been an issue for us. That includes leather and microfiber...

So I would vote for a popcorn popper, but locate it outside the theater if at all possible. Get large dedicated bowls if you are afraid that people will need to keep getting up and leaving the room to get more popcorn.
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post #1126 of 3155 Old 12-30-2011, 05:09 PM
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I just discovered this thread today....amazing work. Since I am trying to kick the flu bug right now I had time to read through the entire thread start to finish and see the design process evolve. I wish I was in a position to own the necessary software and have the necessary experience to develop such detailed renderings. I can see where it really helps flush out most of the major design ideas before ever cutting the first stud (or in your case applying the first coat of hydraulic cement in your case! ). It looks like you are making some great progress and easily past the tipping point of the project.

Keep up the great work and I look forward to more updates!

P.S. - My vote is for carpet on the front proscenium....why do wood which can be reflective?
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post #1127 of 3155 Old 12-31-2011, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are some more updates.

I finished putting in the final room column electrical outlet. I have a cat5 in the column as well that runs back to the patch panel. I haven't decided if I'll need it for anything. I'll need to make a decision as to whether to cut another gang box hole above the electrical outlet before mounting the column. It'll be easier to cut now. I may need it to change the step led lighting colors from a remote. But I'm thinking it'll be easier to just snake the IR sensor into the column and wire it hidden.

In fact, I should probably wire an internal electrical outlet while I have the chance. So I can hide the transformer if I want.




To do the front bull nose. I screwed two blocks to the stage that are square to the side walls. Then screwed the oak down. I made sure that my final cuts would leave me with 3.5" width. Then traced the underside. I built a buffer block that I used during tracing which keeps me flush to the side wall and out the distance I need. Keeps me from having to reach way back as well.



Next I cut with the jigsaw along my mark.


I used my handy 3.5" spacer to mark my next cut using the first cutline as a guide.


Before cutting, I marked straight lines in the arch off the square edge. I wasn't sure if I would need them as cut lines, but once that square edge is gone you are only left with angles.



It took three pieces to build the front bull nose. I ended up stacking the smaller pieces on top of the larger one and tracing my cut lines which ended up being about 17 degree's. So I didn't end up using the straight cut.






If I wasn't concerned about the echo, it might look really cool to have the whole first row platform in oak!
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post #1128 of 3155 Old 12-31-2011, 11:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

We have a popcorn machine and absolutely love it. It was located inside my v3.0 home theater, but with my current V4.0 theater build, it will be located outside of the theater. Too much steam (although, it can make for a nostalgic look with the appearance of "smoke" that the projected image shoots through), and it is just noisy and the light can be distracting. Oils/grease from it on the furniture has never been an issue for us. That includes leather and microfiber...

So I would vote for a popcorn popper, but locate it outside the theater if at all possible. Get large dedicated bowls if you are afraid that people will need to keep getting up and leaving the room to get more popcorn.

Good advice. I have space for the popper in the theater. But I'll keep it outside for sure.
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post #1129 of 3155 Old 12-31-2011, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I just discovered this thread today....amazing work. Since I am trying to kick the flu bug right now I had time to read through the entire thread start to finish and see the design process evolve. I wish I was in a position to own the necessary software and have the necessary experience to develop such detailed renderings. I can see where it really helps flush out most of the major design ideas before ever cutting the first stud (or in your case applying the first coat of hydraulic cement in your case! ). It looks like you are making some great progress and easily past the tipping point of the project.

Keep up the great work and I look forward to more updates!

P.S. - My vote is for carpet on the front proscenium....why do wood which can be reflective?

Thanks for popping in. Hope you recover from the flu. It's going around here. I can definitely feel something brewing in me the past couple days. I'm hoping it doesn't get worse.

As I've said here before, the ability to create the room has been a tremendous help in planning. Although you end up spending more time in the software than in the room actually doing the work.

BTW, I'm still deciding on carpet for the stage. I just think the oak would look better next to the cabinetry look on the stage. But the carpet would be better for reflections.
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post #1130 of 3155 Old 12-31-2011, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Question.

The stage has already been set to have a solid surface on top of it with an overhang. If I go down the carpet route for the stage, that height would remain. But I would need to add a lip for the carpet to roller over.

In this photo, on the right, you can see that the current top layer is 3/4" OSB. So my question is what is the best way to add that lip? I'm thinking I could mount a 1/4" oak on the front for the face of the stage the same height as is there now. Then add (2) layers of 1/2" x 1" furring strips to the front. That would push me out 1". Any thoughts?
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post #1131 of 3155 Old 01-01-2012, 09:33 AM
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I would take one of two different approaches. The easiest and best approach to getting the nosing is to actually buy a nosing and use kerf cuts on the back side to create the bend. Glue and face screw the final product (flush with the top OSB layer, of course), making sure to predrill for all of the screwholes first.

Using your proposed method of 1.0" high by 1/2" thick plywood/OSB strips I would offer the following approach since you will ultimately have to use a router to put a rollover on the top and bottom of these strips to make it look like a real nosing. Test-fit all of the strips (probably four pieces in total since the curve of your step looks like it exceeds 8 feet) in position (two layers of two pieces per layer), making sure to stagger the seams of the strips. Once you are happy with the fit, I would lay the first layer of strips flat on the floor and lay a solid bead of construction adhesive on top and then add the second layer so you essentially have a flat 1" thick strip. Now, working quickly while the adhesive is still wet, I would start to install the strip into position on the front edge of the step, starting at one corner and working my way around, securing the assembly with screws every 4 to 6 inches as needed. The screws will act as your clamps until the adhesive sets. Once the adhesive sets, take your router with a round over bit across the top of this strip. Remove all the screws, flip the molding over and apply adhesive to the back of the curved strip and permanently reattach to the step. You can now run your router over this new top of the nosing with a round over bit to complete the molding.

I hope this is understandable and helps you with your approach.
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post #1132 of 3155 Old 01-03-2012, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I would take one of two different approaches. The easiest and best approach to getting the nosing is to actually buy a nosing and use kerf cuts on the back side to create the bend. Glue and face screw the final product (flush with the top OSB layer, of course), making sure to predrill for all of the screwholes first.

Using your proposed method of 1.0" high by 1/2" thick plywood/OSB strips I would offer the following approach since you will ultimately have to use a router to put a rollover on the top and bottom of these strips to make it look like a real nosing. Test-fit all of the strips (probably four pieces in total since the curve of your step looks like it exceeds 8 feet) in position (two layers of two pieces per layer), making sure to stagger the seams of the strips. Once you are happy with the fit, I would lay the first layer of strips flat on the floor and lay a solid bead of construction adhesive on top and then add the second layer so you essentially have a flat 1" thick strip. Now, working quickly while the adhesive is still wet, I would start to install the strip into position on the front edge of the step, starting at one corner and working my way around, securing the assembly with screws every 4 to 6 inches as needed. The screws will act as your clamps until the adhesive sets. Once the adhesive sets, take your router with a round over bit across the top of this strip. Remove all the screws, flip the molding over and apply adhesive to the back of the curved strip and permanently reattach to the step. You can now run your router over this new top of the nosing with a round over bit to complete the molding.

I hope this is understandable and helps you with your approach.


Thanks for the informative post. I went back and forth between carpet and oak. Finally I figured I'd just let the wife/boss decide. She opted for oak.

I think it works a bit better look-wise with the front wall cabinetry.

So I decided to start tackling the front wall last night and made a good dent on jig sawing the oak. I liquid nailed and screwed the first layer of osb down finally and then made some precut pieces for the top section. I'll fill in the back side with 3/4" OSB or MDF scraps I have since it won't be visible.

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post #1133 of 3155 Old 01-03-2012, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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And here are some renders of what the final product should look like.

I'm curious what size round over are people putting on the bull noses. I think Moggie did 1/2". But I'm almost tempted to do 3/8" to add a bit more meat to the step. Any thoughts? My renders are 1/2". I guess it probably wouldn't be that noticable in the end.













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post #1134 of 3155 Old 01-03-2012, 09:53 AM
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Damn, I love those renderings! Can't wait to see the final product!
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post #1135 of 3155 Old 01-03-2012, 10:28 AM
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I think you need to turn down the contrast on your rendered projector
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post #1136 of 3155 Old 01-03-2012, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I think you need to turn down the contrast on your rendered projector

Yeah. Haven't had time to calibrate it yet.
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post #1137 of 3155 Old 01-04-2012, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I'm curious what size round over are people putting on the bull noses. I think Moggie did 1/2". But I'm almost tempted to do 3/8" to add a bit more meat to the step. Any thoughts? My renders are 1/2". I guess it probably wouldn't be that noticable in the end.

Hey Mario - looking great! I would think you'd want at least 1/2" radius on your roundover, and if it were me, I'd even think about 3/4", assuming your oak buildup is 1-1/2" thick, yielding a complete 180 degree bullnose. However, it's also important to match whatever you're doing on the rest of your steps...

If you do choose something > 3/8", be sure to do it in multiple passes -- you'll get much better results (sorry if that's obvious). Might want to also "back route" the sections going against grain.

Bryan
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post #1138 of 3155 Old 01-04-2012, 09:27 AM
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I think you may not like the reflections off the top of that speaker array under the screen. You may want to fit the top with a fidelio black velvet panel.
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post #1139 of 3155 Old 01-04-2012, 09:30 AM
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Hi Mario, yes I did 1/2" radius on my steps (which was the largest round over bit I had). This leaves a flat front of a two layer step. I liked this look of this because it did, as you suggest, give the edge more "meat". I think 3/8" is a little small though.

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post #1140 of 3155 Old 01-04-2012, 09:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I think you may not like the reflections off the top of that speaker array under the screen.

I was thinking about that. My current plan is to use fidelio black velvet on the top of the cabinet. Then put a wood edging on the front. I'll probably end up wrapping everything that is around the screen with the fidelio black velvet. So the angled 45 columns will have a wood face, but a velvet side facing the screen.
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