The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 52 - AVS Forum
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post #1531 of 3067 Old 04-03-2012, 05:34 AM
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Nice job, Mario. Looks like you are almost ready for another real world/rendered world overlay (hint, hint).
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post #1532 of 3067 Old 04-03-2012, 08:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob2229 View Post

If you are going to paint the trim I would use paintable caulking. It is your friend!

Yup. My father-in-law does an awesome job caulking so I'm hoping he can give me some tips.
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post #1533 of 3067 Old 04-03-2012, 08:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

The crown molding looks great! That must have been a TON of work over a single weekend.



As I understand it, inside corners tend to open up over time because of wood shrinkage. If you had good wood-to-wood contact on the miters, and you used enough glue, and the joints stayed tight while the glue dried, you ought to be fine.

If you have any more to do, you might think about using PL construction adhesive on the inside miter joints (instead of regular wood glue). The PL can bridge a small gap and still yield a strong joint, which would be very helpful with crown moulding.


Thanks. I'm pretty much wrapped up now. But I should have used the PL I had left over...a bit late though. I just wasn't sure if I could rub it on across the surface like the wood glue. Is ok to finger the PL on? I could still use it for the chair rail.
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post #1534 of 3067 Old 04-03-2012, 08:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Well - I finally finished the crown for the theater. I precut some that I'll need to hang near the front screen and then I'll have to tackle the foyer later.

I was going to have a friend come over and do the final cope but he was leaving on a trip for two weeks. So I thought I'd give it a whirl. I had a few bad 8' boards of crown so I knew I had to get it pretty much right on the first time. Turns out the last corner I had was the worst. It was 3 degree's off, the wall was bowing, the ceiling was pitching, yadda yadda yadda.

I ended up using a jig saw to cut away the bulk of the back side. Then a dremel with a sanding bit. And about an hour and half later I ended up with this.



I squeezed it in as best I could but was fearful I would break off an edge. Man that was nerve wrecking.


Not nearly as clean as all the miter's I did and of course my worst corner is right as you walk in. Oh well. I think the caulk and black paint will hide everything.

Some final shots. Time for a clean up of the room before moving on to the chair rail.





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post #1535 of 3067 Old 04-03-2012, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

I'm not very good at coping especially when it is a hardwood like Maple (OMG I wanted to punch myself in the face when I tried)

So instead of using the little saw the entire time I used a dremel with a sanding wheel and it came out perfect.

We think alike Larry. That's pretty much how I did it after I gave up on the coping saw.
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post #1536 of 3067 Old 04-03-2012, 08:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Nice job, Mario. Looks like you are almost ready for another real world/rendered world overlay (hint, hint).

Yeah. I'll give the room a good cleaning before beginning the next phase and do a composite.
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post #1537 of 3067 Old 04-04-2012, 07:04 AM - Thread Starter
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I didn't get around to cleaning last night. I was too anxious to get going on the chair rail.

I knocked out about a 1/3 of the room.







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post #1538 of 3067 Old 04-04-2012, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I didn't get around to cleaning last night. I was too anxious to get going on the chair rail.

More gorgeousness... Gotta love the single miter simplicity now after all that crown, eh? : )
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post #1539 of 3067 Old 04-04-2012, 10:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah. It was kind of funny when I first started getting going on the chair rail. I was so used to doing the crown, I had to change my mindset a bit.

What's the recommended method for cutting chair rail and base? Cut along the saw fence vertically or flat (parallel to the ground)?

I had been cutting it parallel to the ground but just thought about it now and I could have stood the chair rail up and cut along the fence. Might make it easier to just push the saw down rather than at a 45 degree angle.

For others, I found that if I needed to cut the backside of the chair rail and because the profile didn't allow me to set it flat, that I could just put another chair rail underneath it facing each other and that kept the moulding parallel to the ground.

These are probably ridiculous questions for you seasoned carpenters out there...so don't laugh.
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post #1540 of 3067 Old 04-04-2012, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Yeah. It was kind of funny when I first started getting going on the chair rail. I was so used to doing the crown, I had to change my mindset a bit.

What's the recommended method for cutting chair rail and base? Cut along the saw fence vertically or flat (parallel to the ground)?

I'm not a pro, but I've done it both ways. Since I think (no real data) my compound miter saw is more accurate on the miter than the bevel (mostly due to the adjustment mechanisms), I'll tend to cut what I can on the vertical. Since any chip-out will happen on the back of the rail, this has always worked great for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

For others, I found that if I needed to cut the backside of the chair rail and because the profile didn't allow me to set it flat, that I could just put another chair rail underneath it facing each other and that kept the moulding parallel to the ground.

Perfect way to do it!!
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post #1541 of 3067 Old 04-04-2012, 10:11 AM
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Everything is looking fantastic. Love the clean lines your theater has - very clean without being overdone.
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post #1542 of 3067 Old 04-04-2012, 12:23 PM
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Very clean cut as usual. really really nice job!

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post #1543 of 3067 Old 04-04-2012, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Thanks. I'm pretty much wrapped up now. But I should have used the PL I had left over...a bit late though. I just wasn't sure if I could rub it on across the surface like the wood glue. Is ok to finger the PL on? I could still use it for the chair rail.

Yeah, there's no reason you can't rub it around with your finger. You will want to keep a rag and some denatured alcohol handy to clean your hands, though. Soap and water won't take it off.

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post #1544 of 3067 Old 04-04-2012, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger View Post

Since I think (no real data) my compound miter saw is more accurate on the miter than the bevel (mostly due to the adjustment mechanisms), I'll tend to cut what I can on the vertical.

I completely agree. I try not to move my miter saw's bevel from 90 degrees because I know I'll spend 30 minutes getting it back to a true 90, no matter what the manufacturer says about the bevel stops. The miter mechanism is a LOT more accurate, robust and repeatable.

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post #1545 of 3067 Old 04-04-2012, 04:01 PM
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Yeah I prefer using the miter on saw. We've got a tall fence on the Dewalt so might as well use it
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post #1546 of 3067 Old 04-04-2012, 04:51 PM
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are you going to turn and run the chair rail up at that level change (i think you need to). looks wrong as is.
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post #1547 of 3067 Old 04-04-2012, 05:40 PM
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Wow! This looks great!
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post #1548 of 3067 Old 04-04-2012, 05:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by longtimelurker View Post

are you going to turn and run the chair rail up at that level change (i think you need to). looks wrong as is.

I plan to return it into the wall. The two chair rails won't meet up though. I have to put in the fabric frame before I can mount that piece since it runs into the fabric.

If you look at my first post in this thread you can see what it will look like in the 3D render.
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post #1549 of 3067 Old 04-05-2012, 07:02 AM - Thread Starter
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I ended up cutting the pieces standing up vertically against the fence and that was alot better than my original method.

One tip I found was in a couple cases on inside corners I cut the pieces just a 1/16" short or so. I just used a shim behind the chair rail to butt the seam tighter rather than discarding or using that piece elsewhere.

After seeing some of the moulding's in place, I couldn't resist to break out the speaker column grills I had made a while back. It was exciting to see how much it made everything just seem more polished.

I've installed about all the chair rail I can for the moment. Once the door and jamb are installed and the fabric frames, I can finish the rest.



















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post #1550 of 3067 Old 04-05-2012, 08:26 AM
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The room looks beautiful, Mario!

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post #1551 of 3067 Old 04-05-2012, 10:10 AM
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I hate you mario You are going to need some new gear to do that room justice.
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post #1552 of 3067 Old 04-05-2012, 10:53 AM
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Mario, the room looks great. I have bookmarked it to use as reference for when I get planning out pillars and trim.

It looks like you have a good mix of paint grade and stain grade wood in that room. Are you going to paint it all like in the renders, or will some of it be stained?
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post #1553 of 3067 Old 04-05-2012, 11:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HFGuy View Post

I hate you mario You are going to need some new gear to do that room justice.

I've been getting the itch for some new gear as the theater nears completion, but I've been trying to resist given my track record of purchasing way too early...plus the theater is still chewing away at any disposable income I have/had and still growing. On top of that, my wife ran my truck into the garage and I just got a hefty speeding ticket. Only my second one. I guess one every 10 years isn't bad.

I was doing a little research on subs though. I think I just want to get my planned equipment in the room though and just see how it sounds. I was going to pick up a B/C stock HSU VTF-15H but they really don't offer a big discount. I wouldn't mind if I knew the sub was just scratched during the build or in their warehouse...but when the item is shipped, chipped and then returned, you really have no idea what object impacted it and what it may have done to the insides. It's not worth having to ship something like that back.

I think I'll be happy with the speakers...but the projector is now 2 years old.
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post #1554 of 3067 Old 04-05-2012, 11:12 AM - Thread Starter
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The room looks beautiful, Mario!

Thanks as usual. I appreciate all the helpful info you and others have been providing along the way.
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post #1555 of 3067 Old 04-05-2012, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dhendriksen View Post

Mario, the room looks great. I have bookmarked it to use as reference for when I get planning out pillars and trim.

It looks like you have a good mix of paint grade and stain grade wood in that room. Are you going to paint it all like in the renders, or will some of it be stained?

Thanks for the compliment.

I plan to prime and paint everything including the oak and maple. It's a shame, but it's the look I'm going for.

I'm a bit on the fence about whether I should paint all everything including mouldings flat or even matte black. It just makes the trim a bit lifeless.
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post #1556 of 3067 Old 04-05-2012, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's a 3D / Photo composition layered based on the current stage of the project. I thought the 3D wireframe layer looked cool too.







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post #1557 of 3067 Old 04-05-2012, 03:02 PM
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Not sure this has been asked before buy why are the columns on one side of the room not the same as the other ?
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post #1558 of 3067 Old 04-05-2012, 03:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Not sure this has been asked before buy why are the columns on one side of the room not the same as the other ?

The columns are symetrical on both the left and right sides of the room. They are not evenly spaced though along the wall. I took some liberty to move them in order to accomodate the best speaker placement as well as more space to walk through.
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post #1559 of 3067 Old 04-05-2012, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I'm a bit on the fence about whether I should paint all everything including mouldings flat or even matte black. It just makes the trim a bit lifeless.

I would not be able to bring myself to put all of that work into the woodwork and then paint it all flat. The level of sheen you show in your renders looks beautiful -- that would be my target. Maybe a satin or eggshell.

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post #1560 of 3067 Old 04-05-2012, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I ended up cutting the pieces standing up vertically against the fence and that was alot better than my original method.

One tip I found was in a couple cases on inside corners I cut the pieces just a 1/16" short or so. I just used a shim behind the chair rail to butt the seam tighter rather than discarding or using that piece elsewhere.

After seeing some of the moulding's in place, I couldn't resist to break out the speaker column grills I had made a while back. It was exciting to see how much it made everything just seem more polished.

I've installed about all the chair rail I can for the moment. Once the door and jamb are installed and the fabric frames, I can finish the rest.




















I love looking into this crystal ball of my build

Similiarities are just freakish
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