The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread - Page 64 - AVS Forum
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post #1891 of 3084 Old 06-07-2012, 12:18 PM
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Everything is looking great!! I will be having a similarly sized room as well. What radius are you using on your curve in the riser and stage?

Thanks!
Ron
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post #1892 of 3084 Old 06-07-2012, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron_C View Post

Everything is looking great!! I will be having a similarly sized room as well. What radius are you using on your curve in the riser and stage?
Thanks!
Ron

Hi Ron,

It's actually somewhat of an oval rather than a circle. I had to cheat it a bit to make things work for the room. My goal was to closely match the curve in my seating...all curves were pretty much based off the seats.

I plotted points (measuring out then in) from the 3D software onto the wood when it came time to make the first curve.

Mario


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post #1893 of 3084 Old 06-07-2012, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

We used a Benjamin Moore Regal Eggshell FInish Black (Ultra Base N319 4B).
The paint brush was a Purdy XL Glide
http://www.menards.com/main/paint/brushes-rollers-trays/paint-brushes/nylon-poly/purdy-xl-glide-paint-brush/p-1496295-c-8104.htm

That BM paint really made your place look great cool.gif

What was the price difference compared to Regal Select?


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post #1894 of 3084 Old 06-07-2012, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

That BM paint really made your place look great cool.gif
What was the price difference compared to Regal Select?

Not sure Larry.

I never looked into it.

Mario


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post #1895 of 3084 Old 06-08-2012, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

We used a Benjamin Moore Regal Eggshell FInish Black (Ultra Base N319 4B).
The paint brush was a Purdy XL Glide
http://www.menards.com/main/paint/brushes-rollers-trays/paint-brushes/nylon-poly/purdy-xl-glide-paint-brush/p-1496295-c-8104.htm

we had our house painted with BM regal and i know the where super happy we went with that paint, and to be honest we have friends that used same painters but different paint and you can see difference...great great choice


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post #1896 of 3084 Old 06-08-2012, 05:43 AM
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Thanks Mario - Just ordered my new drills!

And I used the same paint and brush on my trim - excellent results!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:

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post #1897 of 3084 Old 06-08-2012, 06:36 AM
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The dark paint really makes a difference in the appearance of the theater... Very Nice! Looking forward to seeing it completed...biggrin.gif

Galaxy Theater

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post #1898 of 3084 Old 06-08-2012, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

We used a Benjamin Moore Regal Eggshell FInish Black (Ultra Base N319 4B).
The paint brush was a Purdy XL Glide
http://www.menards.com/main/paint/brushes-rollers-trays/paint-brushes/nylon-poly/purdy-xl-glide-paint-brush/p-1496295-c-8104.htm
Thanks Mario. Does your FIL have any tips on painting trim you can share. I never seem to be able to get mine done without leaving brushmarks. I've tried adding Flotrol which helped, but it didn't look as clean as your's. I was using Porter's higher end laytex on white trim last time I tried. Theater will be black though and any brushmarks will be more evident.


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post #1899 of 3084 Old 06-08-2012, 08:11 AM
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Quick question....what is the reason to use a brush application over a spray approach? Spray wouldn't be prone to brush stokes, so I wonder if it is just your FIL preference or another reason. I know it would be difficult for you to do with already finished ceiling(could mask off with plastic).

Thanks
Ron
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post #1900 of 3084 Old 06-09-2012, 07:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

we had our house painted with BM regal and i know the where super happy we went with that paint, and to be honest we have friends that used same painters but different paint and you can see difference...great great choice

My FIL was very happy with the results of the first coat. He did another 2nd coat test and said he'll be using Floetrol since it sets up quicker over the original coat. That will give him time to play with it a bit more.

Mario


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post #1901 of 3084 Old 06-09-2012, 07:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

Thanks Mario - Just ordered my new drills!
And I used the same paint and brush on my trim - excellent results!

AirBenji.

Glad you could take advantage of the great bargain.

I used my Discover and saved another 5% through Shop Discover plus got free shipping.

Mario


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post #1902 of 3084 Old 06-09-2012, 07:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

Thanks Mario. Does your FIL have any tips on painting trim you can share. I never seem to be able to get mine done without leaving brushmarks. I've tried adding Flotrol which helped, but it didn't look as clean as your's. I was using Porter's higher end laytex on white trim last time I tried. Theater will be black though and any brushmarks will be more evident.

1) Use the right brush - soft tips
2) Make sure surface is clean and dust free. If you are dragging dirt around you'll start creating lines.
3) Always paint out of a separate can from the original paint can in case you do introduce dirt to your brush
4) Apply generously on your first coat getting into all the nooks and crannies
5) Always brush into the previously painted section
6) Sand your primer and then your first coat
7) Paint with the end of the brush and not the side of the brush
8) Pull away from your insides corners
9) After you've applied generously, use the tips of the brush, not pressing hard, to lightly run over the area you just painted tapering off on your pressure
10) Paint will tend to build up higher up on your brush, use a hard clean edge, to scrape it off from time to time


When painting cabinets, he said always paint the back side first. Because your paint will have a tendency to wrap around the front corner. So when you do the front you'll be knock off that edge you created.

Elevate the object when you need to paint close to the ground so you don't pick up dirt. For example, he put a couple blocks under the door when he rolled it so he could get to the bottom edge.

These are just some of the tips I learned when he showed me. I'm sure I'm missing lots of stuff. It's a whole 'nother game when you actually try to do it.

Putty

Anothing thing, for puttying...only carry a small amount of it around the room so it doesn't absorb chemicals from your hand. Be sure to set any extra on plastic.
Twist the putty in your hand into a nice pencil tip...then push it into the hole and swipe your finger. Then run your clean hand lightly across the putty. Don't push to hard otherwise you'll create a half moon. I found just lightly rubbing it the opposite direction depending upon the hole may sometimes produce better results.

Cleaning your brush

I found out my FIL still has and uses brushes that are over 10 years old and aside from the handle still look in great shape. Cleaning them is an art form in itself. For the latex paint, he was using dish soap and comet. Then a wire brush is run through the bristles. In the soapy water, he plunges the brush into the bottom to remove the paint. He'll do this a couple time's emptying the dirty water and starting again with clean soapy water. After the brush is clean, he squishes the brush in his hands to get excess water out. Then he straightenss the bristles with his hand so they come to a sharp point. This will keep the brush like new after it dries rather than flared out.

I used to just throw away brushes after every use because I could never get them clean and I thought that's what most people did!

Mario


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post #1903 of 3084 Old 06-09-2012, 07:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron_C View Post

Quick question....what is the reason to use a brush application over a spray approach? Spray wouldn't be prone to brush stokes, so I wonder if it is just your FIL preference or another reason. I know it would be difficult for you to do with already finished ceiling(could mask off with plastic).
Thanks
Ron

I think I had asked him about spraying it a while back but I think he thought the paint would have been too thick. Plus I already had the top ceiling area finish painted and fabric in the soffit.

He sprayed my entire house as well as did finish work on my bar to match the bar cabinetry and it turned out fantastic. So I didn't really question him. He's the expert.

Mario


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post #1904 of 3084 Old 06-09-2012, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I finished puttying last night.

Glad to be done with that phase.

The oil primer on the Oak areas was still not completely dry.

My FIL was over early painting some more areas that were ready for him.

IMG_9508_small.jpg


IMG_9507_small.jpg


IMG_9504_small.jpg


IMG_9502_small.jpg


IMG_9501_small.jpg


IMG_9499_small.jpg


IMG_9496_small.jpg


IMG_9492_small.jpg

Mario


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post #1905 of 3084 Old 06-09-2012, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

6) Sand your primer and then your first coat
Putty
Anothing thing, for puttying...only carry a small amount of it around the room so it doesn't absorb chemicals from your hand. Be sure to set any extra on plastic.
Twist the putty in your hand into a nice pencil tip...then push it into the hole and swipe your finger. Then run your clean hand lightly across the putty. Don't push to hard otherwise you'll create a half moon. I found just lightly rubbing it the opposite direction depending upon the hole may sometimes produce better results.

Mario: Thanks very much! 2 questions, What type putty did you use? Some painters use caulk, I had one guy say to use spackling. Wondered what you were using? Second, you mention sanding the 1st coat, aren't you using laytex? I didn't think you could sand laytex?


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post #1906 of 3084 Old 06-09-2012, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I used DAP Professional Painter's Putty '53'.

My FIL using All Purpose Whiting if the consistency of the putty isn't right or too oily I believe.

You can sand Latex lightly to get a smoother finish. I did a quick google search and it looks like it's common.

I think most of us are just used to paint on drywall where you usually have a sand texture in the paint and sanding isn't necessary.

Mario


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post #1907 of 3084 Old 06-09-2012, 08:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Doh.

Our kitchen plasma just went out the other day - no picture (anyone know if plasma's have fuses?) ( I hear the power click on but I can't see the picture brightness change or see an onscreen menu so I'm assuming it's shot). Ice maker stopped working, started working again last night. And the D-box actuator failure makes three.

Usually things break in three around our house...so I'm hoping that's it for a while.

Mario


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post #1908 of 3084 Old 06-09-2012, 09:05 AM
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Mario,
i have a samsung lcd that had capacitors go bad in the power supply. powering up the unit only gave a clicking sound and nothing else on a four year old tv. i beleive this is more a samsung issue as they used cheap caps that cant handle the heat in this location. Four dollars and a little time investment had the thing working fine once again.
i did read that the samsung plasma doesnt have this issue due to better caps used but never know.
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post #1909 of 3084 Old 06-09-2012, 06:50 PM
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Mario,

Your progress is great...! Question, on your columns you have left the tops and sides open, assuming for speakers in the rear ones but what about the front ones? Acoustics?


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post #1910 of 3084 Old 06-09-2012, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Edge540 View Post

Mario,
i have a samsung lcd that had capacitors go bad in the power supply. powering up the unit only gave a clicking sound and nothing else on a four year old tv. i beleive this is more a samsung issue as they used cheap caps that cant handle the heat in this location. Four dollars and a little time investment had the thing working fine once again.
i did read that the samsung plasma doesnt have this issue due to better caps used but never know.

Mine is a Hitachi. It doesnt have an external power supply so I wouldn't really know where to begin. It's about 8 years old. Tv's just don't last as long as the old tubes.

Mario


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post #1911 of 3084 Old 06-09-2012, 07:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tbraden32 View Post

Mario,
Your progress is great...! Question, on your columns you have left the tops and sides open, assuming for speakers in the rear ones but what about the front ones? Acoustics?

Thanks. Anywhere I don't put speakers gives me an opportunity to add acoustic treatment. I was thinking of putting Oc703 in all the lower half columns. I could probably make them 6-8" deep.

Mario


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post #1912 of 3084 Old 06-10-2012, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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I finished priming the insides of the front wall cabinet floor and top. I know you won't see it, but I figured I've come this far.

I also put one coat of paint on the back sides and edges of the cabinet doors. I'll sand and then put another coat on today and then let my FIL do the fronts.

IMG_9509_small.jpg

IMG_9510_small.jpg

IMG_9511_small.jpg

Mario


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post #1913 of 3084 Old 06-10-2012, 07:54 AM
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Doh.
Our kitchen plasma just went out the other day - no picture (anyone know if plasma's have fuses?) ( I hear the power click on but I can't see the picture brightness change or see an onscreen menu so I'm assuming it's shot). Ice maker stopped working, started working again last night. And the D-box actuator failure makes three.
Usually things break in three around our house...so I'm hoping that's it for a while.

Could be the ZSUS and/or YSUS boards.

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post #1914 of 3084 Old 06-10-2012, 05:07 PM
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It's threads like this that make me want to work alittle harder at work smile.gif
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post #1915 of 3084 Old 06-12-2012, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Could be the ZSUS and/or YSUS boards.

Thanks. I think I'll track down the model# and see if I can find anything online. I really don't have any tools that would allow me to test anything if it's failed so I may be up the creek on this one.

Mario


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post #1916 of 3084 Old 06-12-2012, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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It's threads like this that make me want to work alittle harder at work smile.gif

Work hard...build hard. wink.gif

Mario


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post #1917 of 3084 Old 06-12-2012, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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I made a little progress last night.

I rolled black paint onto the flooring of the front cabinetry wall and put a coat of paint where all the hinges are going and the dividers between the cabinets.

IMG_9529_small.jpg


Here's all the cabinet doors sanded after the first coat.
IMG_9530_small.jpg

Mario


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post #1918 of 3084 Old 06-14-2012, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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The Seymour screen and masking panels arrived yesterday. It looks like they packed it really well.

IMG_9533_small.jpg

My FIL finished giving the walls in the theater their first coat. He also gave one side of the door a first coat.
IMG_9536_small.jpg

IMG_9539_small.jpg

IMG_9546_small.jpg

I finished putting on the 2nd coat on the back side of all the cabinet doors and rehung them so it's easier for my FIL to put two coats on the front side.
IMG_9543_small.jpg

IMG_9541_small.jpg

Mario


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post #1919 of 3084 Old 06-14-2012, 09:53 AM
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Looking great Mario, the room is going to look sick when the carpet goes in!


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post #1920 of 3084 Old 06-15-2012, 06:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Looking great Mario, the room is going to look sick when the carpet goes in!

Thanks Brad. I did take a carpet sample in there and it certainly does pop nicely.

Mario


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